I probably should have picked a less complicated pin for my first swap, but picked up a really nice Medusa and CPR playfield. I have completed the swap and plugged everything back up miraculously nothing smoked. I installed LED bulbs and am using the siegecraft adapters. BG lamps all work properly, some lamps on the pf are out and the controlled lamps on the pf flicker but not the controlled lamps on the BG do not.

Several things are not working properly. Most notable is the expanded SDB which constantly fires in attract mode. With a game start the rear drop targets will not reset. The top right round target sets of the bottom right sling and bottom right thumper. Sometimes a top drop target will reset the right drop targets. The four right targets seem to be working correctly.

I am in way over my head with this one, but learning as I go.

Yes. I connected the siegecraft board to the controlled lamp braid on the BG lamp panel. I am only showing 2.56vdc on the braid. Shouldn’t it be 5vdc? Could that be the problem?

2.8vdc on the rectifier. .85 controlld lamps on pf. 2.6 in the siegecraft boards

25 ohm resistor appears okay but only 2.56vac at f1 fuse.

Replaced the rectifier. It was indeed bad. Now getting 7.46vdc at BG controller lamps. 7.46vdc at tp1 on rectifier.

So lamps no longer flicker and they are bright in attract mode. BG controlled lamps all work great. Many of the controlled lamps on the pf do not go off when a game starts - particularly the scoring lamps at the bottom middle of the pf. They all stay lit.

One challenge which was stupid on my part is that I never got the game fully working prior to doing the swap so I don't know which problems are swap related and which existed prior. I have had the pin for well over a year - got it back when you were helping me with the Paragon. Picked up the CRP cheap and decided to do the swap. All boards are original - MPU board boots fine, goes into attract mode but lots of issues now when a game is started. Lamps as I mention above, non-firing solenoids, switch issues, etc. What is your advice on how best to systematically begin working through the problems?

Yes, I can post some up after work this evening.

Quickly this morning I removed the F5 fuse since it is for GI and the scoring controlled lamps still came on. I measured voltage at the controlled lamps and it shows 6.6VAC - GI voltage - and a lower VDC voltage. With the F5 fuse pulled I am uncertain why I would show VAC voltage on the controlled lamps. The BG GI lamps went off with F5 fuse pulled.

Here are pics with a game started. Most of the controlled lamps remain lit.

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The same problem with or without the siegcraft boards. Only difference is the lamps flicker without the boards. I disconnected all lamp driver board connections and all controlled lamps were out so I guess I don't have a dead short to the lamps? I do have a logic probe.

U1 pin 1 = no pulse
U1 pin 2 =pulsing
U1 pin 3 =pulsing
U1 pin 21 =pulsing
U1 Pin 22 =pulsing

U1 Pin 23 =pulsing
U2 Pin 23 =pulsing
U3 Pin 23 =pulsing
U4 Pin 23 =pulsing

One other issue, top left GI lights next to the ball hole kicker are out and get very hot. Can smell the heat and too hot to touch. I may have something miss-wired there.

F3 fuse has blown twice this morning when starting a game so MPU is not booting. I think the fuse issue is related to the burn smell coming from GI lamps in the top left corner? I must have a short somewhere. I will try to get to that tonight and report back.

Left side of R78 and J1 pin 11 both pulsing.

Blown fuse issue was logic probe 5 volt connector off sdb. Fixed.

I reterminated the wire at both locations. I am showing a pulse at the connector for J4 13 so it is getting the signal from the mpu. I have not pulled the board yet to look at the trace between connector and U1 leg 1.

A quick edit to this post. I pulled a known working Alltek lamp driver board and installed it. The same problem persists with multiple controlled lamps staying lit when a game starts.

With the auxiliary lamp board disconnected the shooter lane lights - five rollovers and "ready", "aim", "fire" lamps are not lit. All other lamps appear to be the same.

Connecting a wire to ground at TP2 on the lamp driver board and touching pin 1 of U1, U2, U3, U4 does not affect the behavior of the lamps.

UPDATE

I have been rechecking the playfield wiring looking for shorts, etc. I found a solid blue wire not connected to a controlled lamp at the top of the playfield. Reconnected and now most lights seem to be working as they should except for a few that are out. Other strange things - neither side or top drop targets are resetting. The new leaf switches I installed on the slings don't work. On two of the slings I have an old switch - when it is activated the coil fires. Activating the new switch on the same sling and the coil does not fire - maybe something wired backwards?

Quench,

I found a blue wire that was disconnected from the one of the controlled lights at the top of the playfield. I reconnected and that seems to have fixed the issue. Now the controlled lamps that were lit at game start do not light.

Now maybe I can trouble shoot some of the other problems. For example, I installed new leaf switches on some of the slings. Where both switches are new, the slings do not work. Where I have one old switch and new switch, the coil is activated by the old switch but not the new one. I wonder if I bought the wrong type of switch or have it wired incorrectly.

The top right sling when activated by the old leaf switch also fires the bottom right pop bumper.

The return out lane switches activate the extended solenoid driver.

Here is a picture of the wire. It is the top right light just below the bank targets that lights the arrow.

The switches I had wired incorrectly - I went back and looked at my photos and caught the mistake. Slings now work properly

Top right sling still activates the bottom right pop bumper. It does not seem to be affected by the position of the drop targets.

Other issues - the out land rollovers, the star rollovers in the shooter lane and the spinners with the - all make the top right zipper flipper coil buzz (I originally thought the rollovers were activating the solenoid board on the PF, but it is the zipper flipper coil that is buzzing) . The star rollovers on the main playfield do not register.

Progress, slowly but surely. I could have picked a less complicated pin for my first PF swap.

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I haven't run test mode on the switches and solenoids.

Only one blue wire was not connected. It makes me wonder if something else is also going on. I will post up a picture of the PF at game start so you can see the lamps.

Here is a picture of the pf with a game started. I have no idea why the blue wire affected the controlled lamps. I think it is the S.W illumination buss coming off the rectifier.

I ran the diagnostics and all coils fire appropriately except for 16 and 17 which just buzz. The switch test shows switch 30 as closed.

Other strange things:
1) Drop targets not resetting - odd because over the weekend they were okay - right targets reset at game start and top targets all dropped except for the center target.
2) Right and left round targets at top of pf cause the pf lights to go off and on
3) Leaf switch behind red drop targets causes the saucer eject to fire - this wasn't a problem a few days ago
4) top right sling still causes bottom right pop bumper to fire

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I am back working on the Medusa this weekend.

I pulled the of to checke out to adjust the back drop target switches - switch 30 was showing stuck. I found it almost impossible to adjust the switches without removing the pf.

Put the pf back, reconnected everything and now the MPU will not boot - quick flash followed by three flashes. If I disconnect J2 on the MPU board it boots fine.

I also swapped u10 and u11. There was no change. Game boots with J2 disconnected but not when connected.

Will not boot either way - top half connected bottom not, bottom connected top half not.

Found it. Man this thing is a bear.

I have gone through each switch in diagnostic mode. The cabinet flipper switches do not register and switch 37 for lower pop bumper does not register. All other switches are in correct sequence and register.

When a game is started the following switches are acting crazy.
- switch 35 activates switch 39
-switch 18 activates switch 19
- switch 34 activates switch 36

- Switches 25 and 28 will register during diagnostic but will not register during game.
- Switch 31 will register in diagnostic but not register during a game.

Making a little progress.

I resolved the switch matrix issue with the bottom right sling firing the bottom right pop bumper.

I am still troubleshooting the right drop targets rebound switch and its accompanying other two rebound switches on the the same strobe which fire the saucer and sometimes the shield of the gods. They are all on strobe 2. I think I have the wiring reversed on one of the leaf switches on the PF but have gotten myself turnaround. Here are pictures of the three switches in question. Solder work is a little messy but clean and not grounded anywhere.

The first picture is the leaf switch behind the four drop targets.
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The second picture is the leaf switch just above the four drop targets.
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The third picture is the leaf switch at the toward the top of of PF.
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With drop targets rasied switch 18 rebound scores but does not activate any other switches. All targets raised and all balls removed shows switch 39 closed - lower right pop bumper. It is not closed on visual inspection.

Manipulating the drop targets individually will also result activate the knocker. The four drops also do not reset.

Is this the resistor?image (resized).jpeg

That solves the switch 39 problem.

To right sling will nt fire but activates bottom left sling when the four targets are down. Just noticed this problem.

I also tested some of the affected coils by touching a ground wire to the non banded side of the coil. When the four targets are down, the four target coil activates the top left flipper. If the four targets are up, ground wire to the four target coil activates the coil.

I feel like I have something miswired that is causing all the problems. Not sure where to begin to sort that out.

Could a ground issue be causing all the problems?

If I start a game, I can activate some of the non-solenoid connected switches by touching my hand to the banded side of the diode while my other hand is also touching a metal part of the cabinet