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(Topic ID: 177934)

First Playfield resto..complete non-artsy noob......Finished!

By Sonora70

3 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 64 posts
  • 20 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by Pinslot
  • Topic is favorited by 33 Pinsiders


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#3 3 years ago

Yes clear first after getting it as clean as it's going to get.

The idea for the small text is to scan it, remove the background in photoshop and just print the black text and arrow to lay over the aqua. How exactly to do that in photoshop can be a little involved.

Your hardest obstacle might be the "50 points" text in the inlanes because it's white on color, and you can't print white text on a decal.

So you can go to different lengths depending on how pristine you want it to look. Personally I would go for a "player's" look, just hitting the eyesores. Fix the aqua, touch up black print and keylines, repaint white under the plastics. That'll make it look pretty good, and with a fresh clearcoat and fast play I'll be great. YMMV!

#8 3 years ago
Quoted from Sonora70:

Thanks for the tips. I'm assuming the initial clear coat will serve as the sealer on the bare wood? I would also imagine that it be a very light layer of clear to begin painting on?

The initial clear serves several purposes. It provides a uniform surface for the paint like a primer. That way your new paint layer will have a uniform look instead of soaking into the bare wood vs sitting on top of original paint/lacquer. That bare spot would be pretty obvious if you just painted over without a sealer coat.

Secondly if you goof up it's easy to scrub it off the clear and start again.

Thirdly it begins to level the surface. Without being level, even if the final layers of clear are level you'd be able to see clearly the ridges around the area where it was bare.

#10 3 years ago

Yes you can print pretty much any color but white on a home printer. It's not super opaque though so you'd probably have to put a decal over white paint or I believe they make white decal paper too. You'd want to experiment to get the right color. When you tell the printer a color to print it assumes you are printing it on white paper.

1 week later
#15 3 years ago

I've had good luck so far just using the high resolution camera on my smartphone, just being sure it's level with the playfield. This works fine for small areas I think. I also have an old Canon flatbed scanner that I plan to cut away the plastic shrouding enough that the glass can lay flat on the playfield. Would be a little cumbersome but should work. I've been working on other things but if I get around to that I'll report on its success or failure.

#16 3 years ago
Quoted from Sonora70:

After reading Moonbus' post I'm also thinking about my area to spray. I have my little workroom in the basement but may be taking it to the basement garage for painting. I didn't realize there would be that much over spray from the airbrush.

I'm not sure how he was set up but there shouldn't be that much overspray. Okay maybe avoid the dining room but a small window fan or even bathroom exhaust fan should be enough to keep particles in the air from spreading throughout the house.

#18 3 years ago
Quoted from Moonbus:

Haha, I was not setup at all

I mean how much pressure, how much you sprayed, etc. There will be a little overspray buy it shouldn't be filling the air like that!

#28 3 years ago

The purpose of wet sanding is mostly to help the cut material to flow away from the cutting abrasive instead of getting stuck and clogging. If your sandpaper is clogging up you need to wet sand. That's why higher grits are wet/dry because they clog more easily. So if you can sand without clogging, dry is fine. That's really the only thing. Wet will also reduce the cutting efficiency slightly because it acts as a lube between the abrasive and the surface.

Also, most people don't realize there are two sandpaper grading systems, FEPA and CAMI that are different like US and metric. FEPA grades start with a P. So 800 and P800 are VERY different! Annoying both types are commonly available. So if you sand with 600 followed by P800 you picked up at a different store you will be going backwards!

3 weeks later
#39 3 years ago
Quoted from Sonora70:

Will the final clear coat layers level everything out for me?

Yes and no. Clearing and sanding will create a level surface, but recessed areas like in the red around the pop bumpers will be visible through the clear. I'm not sure if that's what you're asking. That is, the clear surface will be level for the ball but if you look closely you will see that divet underneath. Will you notice it in play? No.

1 month later
#45 3 years ago

If it were mine I'd probably leave the purple but paint around that center bumper as it will be quite noticeable. Also touch up all the black key lines like at the bottom border of the green area, that really makes things pop when the key lines are sharp. You can do that with a fine artist's brush.

7 months later
#61 2 years ago

Looking forward to seeing it populated.

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