Very nice. Ah that makes sense, just a little R-C circuit with transistor for the delay. Neat.

Sounds like it's stuck in a score wheel reset. When you set the reels to zero make sure all the contacts on the top of each reel unit are open.

Edit: you beat me to it but you're looking in the right place.

Also when you do get it going make sure to get a new ball before you start playing.

And make sure the solder tabs aren't shorting. The top switch on the 1000s reel looks like they might be close. The vinyl insulator seems to be gone, maybe just slid down the wire.

This sounds to me like the 10 point relay is engaged or misadjusted, making contact when it shouldn't be. Check all your contacts there. It could also be a playfield switch stuck closed but that shouldn't be able to energize the 10pt relay unless you're in a game. Edit: try tripping the tilt relay and see if it shuts off, that'll tell you if it's a playfield switch.

That's normal from the score reel coil being energized. It actually moves the reel when it is released.

Edit: I also found super lube at Ace.

Cool, that cleaned up nicely. Yea before you got there I was going to say you're missing a bell. That should be easy to find though.

Your 3rd coin chute relay should only be energized when a coin passes through the slot, so I'd check the microswitch on the coin door. Maybe it's jammed up or has a coin stuck in it or something. That doesn't explain the match unit going around though, I think you have at least two issues left

I think I have that angled plate on one of mine too. The only think I can figure is it must be an adjustment for 50Hz in Europe vs our 60Hz? I wouldn't think it would make that much difference for something like that but could be.

On your pic of the schematic, your label "Microswitches on door?" is correct those are the microswitches. The other switches are slightly different, "1st coin chute re." means 1st coin chute RELAY, a switch on the relay itself. Your label "coils on bottom board" is correct those are the coils themselves. The switches right above coilson the schematic are "hold in" switches that keep the relay energized once it is momentarily energized by the chute microswitch while it does some stuff and then the "hold in" circuit is eventually broken by the score motor switch 10D which releases the relay. So if the microswitches check out then the issue must be with the 3rd coin relay hold in circuit.

See if you can find the hold in switch on the 3rd relay and see if you have continuity across it somehow. I wonder if those solder tabs are smooshed together and shorted.

Edit: Ignore what I said about the hold in circuit You said it doesn't engage with the door plug pulled so you're right it has to be in the door.

After staring at this a little more I think you're right, something is up with that plug. Maybe someone was in the middle of swapping the door at some point?

Looks like the 3rd coin relay is activated by white-red which runs to A5 on the socket becoming what, green-blue? Where does that lead on the door? Not to the 3rd coin switch. Methinks you will need to rewire that plug.

Yea I definitely think someone swapped that door and never finished the job. All the wire colors exist on both sides but the plug has them in the wrong positions- except for blue orange that's only on the plug side. Where does that run on the door?

Looks like it's "replay button" in the top right of the schematic portion you posted, so should be white-orange.

From what I can tell, that looks to me like how I would hook it up. But I wouldn't have taken the alligator jumper approach, I would've started with soldering wires

What I meant was the jumper method is a much better idea

At least you haven't blown a fuse yet, literally or figuratively, so that's good.

Awesome progress. A zip tie works nicely to keep the switches together until you reassemble.

IMG_20160328_225630225_(resized).jpg

I know, I saw it here on pinside then administered a dopeslap.

You know what works really well for plastics but is often overlooked is dawn dish soap and a stiff paint brush (bristles cut short). Dawn cuts the grease and grime yet is gentle enough for little ducklings- or paint. Toy train restorers' secret

Hmm I dunno about that, you guys might not be accustomed to superior bally quality The numbers are heat stamped on there pretty good. Dish soap is probably all that's needed, but I recently cleaned some really grimy ones (everything in the machine was spray lubed!) with some purple power degreaser and it didn't touch the numbers.

Wax won't do anything to level those. Wax film thickness is negligible. It's really just filling microscopic cracks.

Here's where the rabbit hole gets deeper Personally I'd see if the glue is deteriorated enough they're ready to pop out on their own. If so, since the text is still good, you could just pop them all out and lay them on a flatbed scanner. Then do you flatten those or get new white inserts where you're at it? Do you do all inserts? They need to be clearcoated after decals, do you clearcoat the whole thing?

Enjoy

Cool, looking forward to how the tumbler works out. I need to get one.

Caution with the ME and alcohol. It's removing whatever was left of the lacquer. It'll get even dirtier faster with no clearcoat left. I'd consider at least clearing the shooter lane and arch where it's worn down to wood.

For those inserts someone here mentioned a kit of mylar circles of various diameters to stick on the inserts to build them up to playfield level. Forgot where to get them but something to consider.

Nice. That was probably done on site one day with minimal tools and materials on hand and probably worked for a long time like that!

Cool you got her back together. I'll have to stop by when I'm down that way and give her a go