(Topic ID: 155412)

First Pins are Home Time to Start the Adventure

By Zarklin

8 years ago


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#23 8 years ago
Quoted from Zarklin:

Still need to pick up some wax for the PF too

I got some Mothers California Gold Carnauba wax at Pep Boys for about 20 bucks. Most Pinsiders swear by Canauba wax on their playfields:

mechs_cleaning_screw_head_(resized).jpgmechs_cleaning_screw_head_(resized).jpg

Quoted from Zarklin:

but I have not found the Teflon gel yet (super lube) As soon as I get a tube I'll go full tilt on the stepper contacts.

Try Ace Hardware. I found a tube for about $7.00. Apply sparingly on stepper contacts with your finger!

fan_tas_tic_back_cabinet_(resized).jpgfan_tas_tic_back_cabinet_(resized).jpg

It's a small detail, but you appear to be missing a glider. These can be picked up for 25 cents at PBR, The Pinball Resource:

HDW-GLIDE nylon furniture glide, beige 8 $0.25

Don't bother ordering one. The color probably won't match. Buy in batches of four.

That power cable looks nasty. Best to replace with a three prong power cable and connect to connectors on the mech board or cut at that spliced section and reattach to the connectors on the mech board. Here is a good tutorial for you to follow:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-swinger-restoration-and-eventual-retheme/page/9#post-2767082

Just follow along until you fully understand what it takes to replace a Williams '70s EM power cable.

#36 8 years ago
Quoted from Zarklin:

Decided to clean the jones plugs to the back box as they were pretty corroded.

Quoted from Zarklin:

Also grabbed some 400 and 600 grit wet/dry and gave another go at the jones plugs.

Don't forget to clean ALL of the Jones plugs including those to the front door and for options/adjustments. It will save you trouble later. You only have to clean the outside and inside where the plugs make contact, but I like your way better. A little extra special attention to detail makes a lot of difference in my book.

Also clean the contacts on the female side of the Jones plug. I would like to hear from others the best way to do this.

Quoted from Zarklin:

Is it normal for the colors to change at the plug?

Take a look at your schematic and you will see numbers in little boxes next to the lines. This is the color code for the wire. The first number is the primary wire color and the second number is the tracer color. A number after the dash means that that combination of colors has been used before. There should be a table in the lower right of your schematic showing the Wire Color Codes.

For my Bally 1970 Double up here is are some examples:

Number 51 is white with a red tracer
Number 70 is orange with no tracer
Number 49-3 is green with a gray tracer and has been used elsewhere in the schematic twice.

Oh, and yes, wire colors can change a lot.

#87 7 years ago
Quoted from Zarklin:

Should be fine they are all exactly the same. Shy a contact plate on the 10s reel. Plus the wiring harness drops them all out nicely in groups.... yep that's self reassurance right there

is right. Are you sure that it's the 10 reel that doesn't have the PCB? I'm not 100% sure either but my Bally Double-Up doesn't use the PCB on the 100's reel. The 10s reel needs to be tracked for the match feature. The 1,000 and 10,000 reels need to be tracked for replay/credit scores. Perhaps someone else can chime in here to verify.

#89 7 years ago
Quoted from Zarklin:

No worries guys I triple checked. It's the 10s reel with no contact plate. This unit only goes up to a 1000s reel

Ahh! That would make perfect sense if Op-Pop-Pop has 1's, 10's, 100's and 1000's reels instead of 10's, 100's, 1,000's and 10,000's reels and a match feature that matches the single digits.

If I had been paying closer attention I would have seen that the far right score reel, the single digits reel, had a '1' in one of your images.

Quoted from Zarklin:

yep that's self reassurance right there

Proceed with self reassurance!

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