That’s not solder.. that’s a wick for removing solder. If you need to replace transistors (it sounds like you probably do, unless you end up finding a wiring break or bad diode on the lamp matrix or bad connection somewhere) that will be handy. For solder - Something with flux in it will be easier to work with.

To answer your left flipper question — that’s the eos switch # —58 per the switch matrix. Generally that’s the number you’ll get flashed - a switch #. As to why it popped up - it may have dirty contacts if it’s a nc (normally closed) style eos or gapped really close if it’s normally open.

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The ‘thin pin’ that came with your switch is a diode so the switch will work properly in the switch matrix. You’ll want it oriented the same way as the existing one - note the side with the white band on the black diode body.

Also note - Just rolling a ball thru won’t necessarily tell you the switch is bad - if the blade is not adjusted correctly it could be stuck on (not likely on this one) or not closing enough to trip the switch. You need to activate by hand to verify this - or as you did with the meter.. How did it test with the meter - always open or always closed?

Does the motor run for the mix master thing even when in attract? Or only once you start a game?

Gotcha. Ok, sounds like your on the right track then with the switch. If the transistor was blown I’d expect it to start up when the game is powered up

For your knocker — disconnect the white molex plug you show in the picture before testing. You should get 2-5ohms resistance or so.. you can compare against a similar coil in the game. Coils don’t just ‘go bad’ over time. They generally work or the wire gets cut/nicked somewhere and it won’t work at all. If you get infinite resistance with the molex unplugged, wire is cut somewhere.. I’d inspect the outside wraps if coil. Otherwise you should get a resistance reading… and if so, you can start working your way back to the transistor by checking continuity on each wire back to the board connections. Generally this is a good way to troubleshoot — like with your bulbs. Start there, then check the ends of wire connections to make sure there’s no breaks.

Yeah- where you circled is fine. Make sure you are making contact with the exposed metal tabs and not just to the coil wiring - which is insulated. I assume OL means open line or something similar — the ‘beep’ indicates you have a good connection thru your test points, no beep but a ohm value indicates some resistance and if no beep or reading that should be indicating no connection / infinite resistance yes.

Did you connect that trough led strip with the game on or off? It’s easy to short stuff wit it on, messing around with Ali clips on sockets. I agree with forceflow on the idc connectors. It’s common on old GI connectors to get some burn marks like that. As long as no serious damage it should be fine.

You are mixing terms here. The housing has pins yes, the wires terminate on pins that seat on the board headers via the plastic housings. There are NO fuses involved here. Your pins/ housings should be ok, despite the crispy black soot. Most likely.

Fuses are elsewhere. If those are blown, you can sometimes tell by visual inspection but if not, by removing them from circuit and testing for continuity. They are all glass tubes, and pull out of their housings fairly easily.

If pins somehow are bad, you want female pins to replace anything in that housing. Not male pins. But I doubt that’s an issue.

As stated before, this is pretty normal on GI connectors on older games. The plastic having a burn mark should not affect anything. If you have good continuity from where the wire is pressed in on the back side to the pin on the front for each wire it should be fine. You can clean the soot off if continuity is questionable. Idc connectors are annoying imo- it’s hard to press the wires in and I’m not even sure what the pins are in it or if Idcs come pre-pinned. If you were committed to changing it out I’d get a non Idc style and a good pin crimper (and make sure you know the correct way to crimp the wires to the pins)