(Topic ID: 263766)

First Pin, first shop-Gottlieb Rack a Ball


By Slickfam99

77 days ago



Topic Stats

  • 18 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 32 days ago by jrpinball
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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There have been 13 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

Wiring11 (resized).jpg
Reassembled PF3 (resized).jpg
Reassembled PF2 (resized).jpg
Reassembled PF1 (resized).jpg
Gottlieb label (resized).jpg
Pop bumper3 (resized).jpg
Pop bumper 1 (resized).jpg
Close up PF (resized).jpg
Close up PF1 (resized).jpg
PF view2 (resized).jpg
bell knocker (resized).JPG
Bell2 (resized).jpg
Bell1 (resized).jpg

#1 77 days ago

Well, I have officially caught the bug! I was a little hesitant to open up the pin but needed to look at how to rebuild the pop bumpers and the slingshots in order to make playing the game more fun. As I looked inside at all the wires, relays, coils and stuff I have no idea what it does, I started to feel a little more confident as I chased back wires to different levers and lights and realized that I could possibly do this and it still play someday. I am going to document as best I can and will have lots of questions for you all that have been doing this forever.

My first question is about the bell ringing set-up. The bell in the upper cabinet seems to work but was a little disappointing for the lack of sound. I then found this inside the cabinet. Reference the pics. A couple of cut wires and the plug not plugged in for the bell mechanism. What am I missing? The plug is still soldered to the coil that seems to hit a piece of metal and there seems to be something inside the sleeves of the coils but not sure how that all works. Any help would be great as I venture into the great unknown for me--Electrical!!

Tim in SC

Bell2 (resized).jpgBell1 (resized).jpg
#2 77 days ago

Congratulations, and it’s so fun to have the bug!

This website will be fantastic for other EM aficionados to answer your questions.

I strongly recommend beginning by reading this guide end to end. It will vastly enhance your understanding of these Gottlieb games and really give you a confidence boost as you begin to work through them. It’s worth its weight in gold.

You’ll often hear this referred to as “Clay’s site: http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index.htm

#3 77 days ago

Tim, if you don’t already have one, get the schematic for the game. It will make the debug work much easier.

The first photo you posted is of the knocker. Next to it are the two bells which ding when you score points. What makes them ding is the metal plunger that is inside the coil. When a current is run through the coil, it becomes an electromagnet and it shoots the plunger into the knocker or the bell, making the sound.

This board is also a great source for debug help. Do get the schematic though.

Alberto

#4 77 days ago

Tim, that knocker in your first picture unplugs to make removal of the bottom board easier. Someone may have just forgot to plug it back in when they worked on it.

One word of advice: Get everything working. From start up, to reset, to game over before messing with trying to improve play of the pop bumpers etc. That way, you start from a fully working machine and if you mess something up, you'll know it was probably the last thing you did.

As far as your pop bumpers and slingshots, there's a good chance that it always played that way. Early 60's Gottlieb games didn't have to power of later DC bumpers or modern games. Cleaning the path and changing sleeves in the coils may help a little but you'l probably still be disappointed. You might want to try high tapping.

#5 77 days ago
Quoted from Slickfam99:

What am I missing? The plug is still soldered to the coil that seems to hit a piece of metal and there seems to be something inside the sleeves of the coils but not sure how that all works.

Knocker. It activates when you win a replay.
The bell that's disconnected should be serviced before reconnecting it. I'd bet the coil sleeve is partially melted, and the plunger is stuck. The coil could be damaged as well due to overheating. It's something commonly found on these older games as the score reels stick, causing the relay to lock on, which locks on the bell coils, etc.

#6 77 days ago
Quoted from edednedy:

Cleaning the path and changing sleeves in the coils may help a little but you'l probably still be disappointed. You might want to try high tapping.

I've never been disappointed with the gameplay of these older games after they've been properly shopped. You shouldn't need to high-tap it if your line voltage is normal.

#7 77 days ago
Quoted from Peruman:

Tim, if you don’t already have one, get the schematic for the game. It will make the debug work much easier.
The first photo you posted is of the knocker. Next to it are the two bells which ding when you score points. What makes them ding is the metal plunger that is inside the coil. When a current is run through the coil, it becomes an electromagnet and it shoots the plunger into the knocker or the bell, making the sound.
This board is also a great source for debug help. Do get the schematic though.
Alberto

The machine came with the original schematic and the tune up cards. The coils do have the metal plungers inside so I should be good to go there. It does look like the larger bell doesn't have anything near it to ding with. Just looks like an empty bell.

Tim

#8 77 days ago
Quoted from edednedy:

Tim, that knocker in your first picture unplugs to make removal of the bottom board easier. Someone may have just forgot to plug it back in when they worked on it.
One word of advice: Get everything working. From start up, to reset, to game over before messing with trying to improve play of the pop bumpers etc. That way, you start from a fully working machine and if you mess something up, you'll know it was probably the last thing you did.
As far as your pop bumpers and slingshots, there's a good chance that it always played that way. Early 60's Gottlieb games didn't have to power of later DC bumpers or modern games. Cleaning the path and changing sleeves in the coils may help a little but you'l probably still be disappointed. You might want to try high tapping.

Everything seemed to work when I first got it. Lights up, resets to new game, scores, animation works and the flippers, bumpers and slingshots worked but very slow and no punch to them at all. One bumper didn't even have a coil attached and one had a non-Gottlieb coil in it. I will post more pics as I go along to show how clean the cabinet and upper are so far. Made my first order to PBR today so waiting to hear back from them.

Tim

#9 77 days ago
Quoted from Slickfam99:

It does look like the larger bell doesn't have anything near it to ding with.

It appears that the wires to that unit were cut. There's supposed to be a coil/plunger/bracket assembly mounted under the bell to "clang" it. You'll probably see the screw holes in the cabinet wall where it's supposed to be mounted. I'll check PBR website to see if they have it.

#10 77 days ago

Yes, he has it.

bell knocker (resized).JPG
#11 77 days ago

If the other bells are working but not sounding well or reliably, check the plunger - my Gottlieb duotron, the plungers were all gummed up. Alcohol wipe of both the plungers and the sleeves brought them back to life.

And not sure of the conditions of the rings / rubbers - on another game, the slingshots felt all loosey-goosey / sloppy but a new set of rubbers set improved things immensely. About 1/2 the time I'm looking for bad contacts / wiring issues and it's usually just cleaning, maintenance sort of stuff.

#12 77 days ago
Quoted from JudeRussell:

If the other bells are working but not sounding well or reliably, check the plunger - my Gottlieb duotron, the plungers were all gummed up. Alcohol wipe of both the plungers and the sleeves brought them back to life.

Yes, and the plungers should have a nylon tip on them. They are very often missing. PBR doesn't sell the tip only. You have to get the entire plunger.

#13 77 days ago
Quoted from JudeRussell:

If the other bells are working but not sounding well or reliably, check the plunger - my Gottlieb duotron, the plungers were all gummed up. Alcohol wipe of both the plungers and the sleeves brought them back to life.
And not sure of the conditions of the rings / rubbers - on another game, the slingshots felt all loosey-goosey / sloppy but a new set of rubbers set improved things immensely. About 1/2 the time I'm looking for bad contacts / wiring issues and it's usually just cleaning, maintenance sort of stuff.

The pin had all new rubbers and #47 lights put into it but am inspecting and cleaning everything step by step so it will be as clean as possible.

#14 77 days ago
Quoted from jrpinball:

I've never been disappointed with the gameplay of these older games after they've been properly shopped. You shouldn't need to high-tap it if your line voltage is normal.

I've never been disappointed either. I know what to expect. He felt that his pop bumpers and slingshots were weak. Since this is his first EM, he is probably comparing them to the power of more modern games and if he is, he will be disappointed. Two different worlds.

High tapping is a matter of personal preference. I rarely do it myself. However, some people might find a fully shopped game to still play slower than they would like, even though it may play exactly as it did in 1962. For those people high tapping is an easily reversible option.

3 weeks later
#15 53 days ago

I got the PF stripped and am working on cleaning everything up before reassembling the Pop Bumpers and putting all new rubber on. Have any of you just cleaned the PF without restoring the paint items? I am a little scared to start trying to repaint stuff if it won't affect the play afterwards. I get trying to make it look like new but am not ready for that kind of a restoration. Any comments would be helpful.

Close up PF (resized).jpgClose up PF1 (resized).jpgGottlieb label (resized).jpgPF view2 (resized).jpgPop bumper 1 (resized).jpgPop bumper3 (resized).jpg
2 weeks later
#16 34 days ago

I have the PF cleaned and waxed. Also cleaned everything and put everything back minus the new rubbers that are on the way. Now I have the PF flipped upside down on the sawhorses ready for the bumper, flippers and slingshot rebuilds. I put all new #47 lights in while I was there and ordered a few of the missing parts. I could probably put new plastics on but will wait and see after everything is together. I might be able to touch those up easier than the paint on the PF.

Tim in SC

Reassembled PF1 (resized).jpgReassembled PF2 (resized).jpgReassembled PF3 (resized).jpgWiring11 (resized).jpg
#17 32 days ago

Looking good!

#18 32 days ago
Quoted from Slickfam99:

I got the PF stripped and am working on cleaning everything up before reassembling the Pop Bumpers and putting all new rubber on. Have any of you just cleaned the PF without restoring the paint items? I am a little scared to start trying to repaint stuff if it won't affect the play afterwards. I get trying to make it look like new but am not ready for that kind of a restoration. Any comments would be helpful.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

If you're afraid of retouching the worn areas around the pop bumpers, try this. Get mylar trim platters from PBR (the non-adhesive ones). Paint one side of the platter in the matching color, and install it with the painted side facing down. It's quick, easy, and non-permanent. If you haven't already soldered in your light sockets, it's easy to remove the bumper bodies again and do this.

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