(Topic ID: 208938)

First pin : Dungeons and Dragons Help!

By Simonvb

3 years ago


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  • 14 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by ShadowFlame76
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#1 3 years ago

Yesterday ive bought my first pin #dungeons an dragons. U2 was missing and the game was untested. Since this is my first pin i need some help figuring some stuff out.

It still has the original mylar but it has air bubbles.
10 targets are missing
No topper.
Most parts have a little rust.
New mpu
New glass
All the plastics in a box
And new rubbers

After testing voltages and replacing a fuze, a friend of mine made the missing u2 chip and we put it in. We also noticed after a while u3 had a misplaced leg. Now i have lights but none of the hv stuff works. No coils no screen ( we sometimes do see a dot appear). The audio board connector started smoking aswell. So we unplugged that for the time being. So what should we do next ?

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#2 3 years ago

First thing you should do with a new game is use a multimeter and ohm out all the coils in the game. Tug at the wiring as you go along, and check for shorts--i.e. make sure lamp tabs or coil tabs aren't touching any switches.

I'm pretty useless when it comes to diagnosing electrical circuitry, but the pinwiki and many other pinsiders here are an invaluable resource for aide. Good luck on your repair endeavor, and welcome! Dungeons and Dragons is a really fun game, in my humble opinion. It'll be great to see this one (hopefully) brought back to life!

#3 3 years ago

Welcome to pinside, looks like everything needs a good cleaning too. Good luck and have fun. Pick up some new balls too. No sense in trying to clean the old ones.

#4 3 years ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

First thing you should do with a new game is use a multimeter and ohm out all the coils in the game. Tug at the wiring as you go along, and check for shorts--i.e. make sure lamp tabs or coil tabs aren't touching any switches.

Thanks il try that. And i dont think its a big problem that is holding us back since all the voltages seem fine. So it will be back from the dead in no time. We think it might be a u2 an u3 syncing problem.

Quoted from hawknole:

Welcome to pinside, looks like everything needs a good cleaning too. Good luck and have fun. Pick up some new balls too. No sense in trying to clean the old ones.

Thanks and after the game shows a bit more life. Il order some novise and 8 brand new balls and a bunch of other stuff. Im cleaning one now in acid just to test some stuff out with out throwing rust everywhere :p

#5 3 years ago

Cool game, the PF seems to be in quite good condition, probably it has been put away for a long time (hence the rust). Hope you will get it going!

#6 3 years ago
Quoted from mgpasman:

Cool game, the PF seems to be in quite good condition, probably it has been put away for a long time (hence the rust). Hope you will get it going!

The last owner bought it broken hes had it for a coupple of years but never had the time to fix it. He had multigame fix the mpu but he broke the legs of u2. Looking at the state of the rock hard rubbers id say atleast 15 years with out some love.

UPDATE : the mpu does not flash at all. I thibknit does get power since ive had some gameplay bulbs on at some point ( u3 had a leg sticking out at the time ) is this bad ?

#7 3 years ago

Ill give you the same advice I give everyone when they are starting. Start at the wall and work your way in. Follow the power. See what the voltage is coming from your outlet and then follow the flow of power as it enters the machine thru the power cord up thru the transformer into power board. After that you can start worrying about the mpu, but until you know you have ALL the power going where it needs to, the game will never boot.

#8 3 years ago

my tp 5 (+14) and i think my tp1 (5v) are not there. we blew a fuse because we did something wrong ... il check tomorrow again. so we think its the 20v 11000 uf cap that is broken it does not seem to store allot of electricity .

#9 3 years ago

If your in your first machine, I would sent it in. That board isn’t that hard to work on but it is a bit expensive to replace. Get an old bally when you want to start working on boards. Easy to get replacements and super simple to work on. Thick traces that almost never pull out

#10 3 years ago

After cleaning all the fuse holders it booted cant coin-up and the audio board started smoking thebfirst day.so we yave to check that. But we are close to a running game il post a photo tomorrow. What should i check now ?

#11 3 years ago

when the game boots it says "dragon lair LT". i think its an error code.

update : it was. left lair switch was stuck. still cant coin-up. i dont seem to get more errors.
im so close to a playing game just dont know what to do next.

#12 3 years ago
Quoted from Simonvb:

still cant coin-up. i dont seem to get more errors.
im so close to a playing game just dont know what to do next.

Does your remote Bally keypad for game adjustments and audits work (or is it in your cabinet at all)? My guess is some of the game settings have invalid values which occurs when you lose battery power, install a remote batter holder, etc. You may need to do a factory reset using the bally keypad, or at least change some of the invalid values to valid ones as listed in the manual.

You can download a copy of the manual here if you don't have one:

http://www.ipdb.org/search.pl?any=dungeons+and+dragons&search=Search+Database&searchtype=quick#743

#13 3 years ago

Thats what im thinking aswell.( forgot to post that srry) but knowing that im not the only one who thinks this fixes it helps

I dont have a key pad in trying to borrow one from my local pin repair guy. He also repairs my arcade tubes. But he diddent pick up yesterday. I hope he does today. I think il buy an anypin nv ram chip so this never happens again. I can make the pad my self but it takes a while.

1 week later
#14 3 years ago

I have that pinball machine. It's a fun game but so you know the skill shot switch has a tendency to get bent out of shape and the ball gate that is supposed to hit it to activate it will either no longer make contact or make contact and get stuck "up".

Ps if you want to sell the ball gate let me know as I am looking for a replacement

By the way, I have some slight bubbles under the mylar too. I wouldn't try to remove it as you'll probably end up taking a lot of the paint off and ruining the art work.

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