(Topic ID: 148360)

First EM Williams "Klondike"

By phil-lee

8 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 26 posts
  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by gdonovan
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

DSCN7714 (resized).JPG
DSCN7715 (resized).JPG
IMG_7236 (resized).JPG
IMG_1267_(resized).JPG
IMG_1264_(resized).JPG
IMG_1258_(resized).JPG
IMG_1283_(resized).JPG
IMG_1272_(resized).JPG
IMG_1281_(resized).JPG
IMG_1282_(resized).JPG
IMG_1279_(resized).JPG
IMG_1280_(resized).JPG
IMG_1256_(resized).JPG
IMG_1255_(resized).JPG
IMG_1253_(resized).JPG
IMG_1252_(resized).JPG
#1 8 years ago

First of all I would like to thank the Members here for a lot of great advice since I began lurking 3 weeks ago. This Forum coupled with the Articles in Pinrepair have enabled me to lift up a 1971 Williams Klondike I purchased for 200 dollars (homebound for 30 years one Family) to a decent functioning state. However I am never happy with decent and would like to get the thing close to perfect(I intend to keep it). My previous experience has been with a Fireball Classic I owned and restored(with great help) 15 years ago.So I have a Technical question and will try to be brief. So far I have shopped the play field with new rubber,replaced all bulbs, replaced a coil in the 100 scoring reel, replaced a broken EOS switch in the center pop-bumper, replaced a coil and plunger in the single chime unit, cleaned all Score Reels and re-soldered a broken bottom yellow-switch wire,and serviced all pop-bumper units with new aprons.I also set it to Free Play with a penny.I honestly wanted to get the thing right without any help other then studying similar issues posted here and understanding EM logic. I am one of those people who think they can do anything (like Willie Nelson once said). But frankly there are so many great Operators here I thought it wouldn't hurt to ask. Schematic coming within 2 weeks, partial Owners manual, using the Parts Manual from Resource. So...
1. 10,000 Scoring Reel resets but does not score. Cleaned, contact switches on all Scoring Reels set.
2.All PF lights advance during gameplay/motor runs during ball drain but 10,000 score reel does not turn.
3. Top roll over switches controlling PF Bonus Reels advance reels but lock up Ball Index Relay.
Yeah,Scoring. Everything else is pretty good, 100,000 Light relay works, ball return fast,flippers,pop-bumpers and kickout switches strong. Checked everywhere for bogus switches, cleaned and adjusted. Any and all help is appreciated,and it is an honor to be a member here!

IMG_1242_(resized).JPGIMG_1242_(resized).JPG

#2 8 years ago

Hi phil-lee
Ball Index Relay ? Williams and Bally use this relay "the machine does tell the brain: a (given / prepared) ball IS REALLY IN PLAY" - when a ball is transported over to the shooter lane: relay should be inactive - as soon as you make some points -> the relay pulls and stays pulled the long time until You loose the ball -> when the pin kicks the ball over to the Shooting Lane: (A) relay is pulling: the pin steps to (next player / next ball) (((and deactivates the relay))) - (B) relay is not pulling: the pin gives the SAME ball. (some player use this effect and let a ball drain when it comes down after launching without points made - Williams and Bally: on EVERY ball - Gottlieb: ONLY first-Player-First-Ball))).

10'000 Score-Reels - (((You have ordered a schema and a manual - I also like to have "original paperwork))) - ipdb shows schema and manual: http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=1388
The manual shows on page-3 the 9-Position switch (ONLY closed in this position): Does it close securely (at pos-9) ? contacts clean ? wires soldered-on ?
The manual shows on page-14 the 1000-Point-RELAY -> see Switch-1C ? (closing ? contacts ? wires ?) , they mention: Look at schema-C-7 , and in the schema at C-7 we see the wiring. From the coil runs a wire to a "Cross" - four wires have contact (near "B-O-I") -it is not a "hopping over a line" -> the "resetting" is shown and the "activating by 1000-Point-Relay and pos-9-Switch" is shown.
Greetings Rolf

#3 8 years ago

Thank you for your insight. This should keep me busy for awhile,I hope to reply back with success!

#4 8 years ago

I found some other things that need attention before I even fire it up again;I watched this relay knowing it was already burnt and buzzing first start after bringing it home. Sure enough it is shook apart enough now I don't want to power it until my order comes in from PBR. Above that the power cord is rotten with blue arc syndrome, it should have been the first thing I changed, been avoiding it.

IMG_1248_(resized).JPGIMG_1248_(resized).JPG

#5 8 years ago

I'm studying on how to raise these flippers up to quit this groove process,I know I did something similar on a previous machine,shouldn't be too hard.

IMG_1246_(resized).JPGIMG_1246_(resized).JPG

IMG_1245_(resized).JPGIMG_1245_(resized).JPG

#6 8 years ago

I am fortunate a new back-glass is available at what I consider a good price. I didn't really care about the crack when I bought itI was looking for a beater EM I could learn on at a great price and it still held paint. After cleaning the Play-field, replacing all the rubber, hitting a few bugger spots with a sharpie and meticulously waxing everything, I began to feel this machine was a jewel-in-the-rough and could possibly warrant a new back-glass since I plan on keeping it. I would like to save the old one in a lit frame but removing it in one piece,gluing screwing and tattooing, may require a future thread.

IMG_1243_(resized).JPGIMG_1243_(resized).JPG

IMG_1247_(resized).JPGIMG_1247_(resized).JPG

IMG_1241_(resized).JPGIMG_1241_(resized).JPG

#7 8 years ago

I don't really like this plastic over the "Slot Machine" - Type reel set, this was a premium feature at the time and warrants something better. Soon as I get the colors right I'm creating a new set of plastics,because no one said I can't. I did find a new reproduction is available made from thicker material. Who knows, I will probably buy one and throw it inside. The thing about plastics and back-glasses,if you find them you might want to strike while the pan is hot,they may not be available later.

IMG_1244_(resized).JPGIMG_1244_(resized).JPG

IMG_1249_(resized).JPGIMG_1249_(resized).JPG

#8 8 years ago

Welcome to the club. I also have a klondike waiting its turn for a return to working condition. I picked up the slot cover and am very glad I did as my original is trashed.

#9 8 years ago

Glad to speak with a fellow Klondike Owner. I think this will be a really fun game once everything comes together. Lightening fast after the improvements but a definite ball-drainer in its current configuration, I think I will move the posts to a "Liberal" position detailed in the Owners Manual after the needed repairs,this will also allow more looping through the left and right lanes to get the ball back up top easier. I do find a lot of EM kinda simple and this one has enough logic and features to keep it interesting. The replacement plastic was listed as heavier duty than the stock piece of cheese it came with,I hope this was the same one you got. I also found(perhaps you as well) re=printed Novelty Reel graphics of a higher quality than stock, it would really take up with these on there but would be a little job installing.

#10 8 years ago

I know a pinsider made some, but I didn't get them. Where did you find them? The reel graphics on my machine are very dirty.

#11 8 years ago

mailto:[email protected] I should have checked if Posting a link is ok. Seems these reproductions are on a more durable material. I am lazy and probably will white-out around the ugly areas to give the illusion of white for awhile till I get the mechanics correct.

#12 8 years ago

I'm going to remake them eventually. I emailed some people, but nothing worked out. I'll take the ones off my machine, scan them, redo the art in vector format, then release the files for anyone to print. Coming in the next couple of months.

#13 8 years ago

So the New (used) Williams shooter rod assembly came in today from E'Bay. The assembly on the Klondike was "Played", literally. Fell in three pieces upon disassembly. It may not be stock but the Red handle matches this Bird perfectly,this thing "Took Up" quick in that certain corner.

IMG_1251_(resized).JPGIMG_1251_(resized).JPG

IMG_1252_(resized).JPGIMG_1252_(resized).JPG

IMG_1253_(resized).JPGIMG_1253_(resized).JPG

#14 8 years ago

The chime unit on this thing was a burnt-up mess when I got it,I wish I had a before pic to show. The replacement coil and 2 1/2 in ch long nylon-tipped plunger didn't work,just buzzed. So I reversed the wiring to it and it just buzzed intermittently. I have been having 10,000 score reel issues from the beginning, and always suspected the chime unit,why was it burnt? Because it is in the pathway from the Relay to the Reel. A broken end of travel switch on the 1000 Point pop bumper was a culprit as well( repaired). I ordered the correct parts from PBR and installed them tonight,I think I am getting closer to the original configuration.I don't care right now about tuning the lone "Chime"in as long as it thumps.
I cannot try it out yet, Or the new shooter installed this afternoon, until I address the lock relay and a new power cord.To be continued, hopefully with better pics.

IMG_1255_(resized).JPGIMG_1255_(resized).JPG

IMG_1256_(resized).JPGIMG_1256_(resized).JPG

#15 8 years ago

The Chime Is Working!Dull Williams thud I need to fine tune This is great...

1 week later
#16 8 years ago

So I got tired of fooling with this thing and decided to take everything out, clean all switches, check every relay according to the Manual,and replace the cord while I was in there.IMG_1280_(resized).JPGIMG_1280_(resized).JPG
So it went on the kitchen table. It looked like many of the score motor switches were canted sideways, so I straightened all that out.IMG_1282_(resized).JPGIMG_1282_(resized).JPGIMG_1279_(resized).JPGIMG_1279_(resized).JPG
Cleaned all Jones plugs and vacuumed the cabinet out while I was at itIMG_1281_(resized).JPGIMG_1281_(resized).JPG
I always get in a hurry on a new project but this pos plug should have been the first thing I replaced. I went with a polarized cord.IMG_1283_(resized).JPGIMG_1283_(resized).JPGIMG_1272_(resized).JPGIMG_1272_(resized).JPG
There was one switch closed on the score motor when it should have been open. I also cleaned the 9th position switch on the 10,000 reel again, one of these things fixed my scoring problem, oh happy day! This thing plays GREAT now, everything actually works.Everything that is except the kicker. It looks new, wired correctly, cleaned the Jones Plug,nothing. Oh well, right now I'll be thankful for 99% right. Next will be cosmetic improvements (plastic for the play field reel set and a new back-glass), I also want to make it FAST so slingshot coils and a possible bump up on the transformer are on the agenda. Thanks to everyone for the help!

#17 8 years ago

I also changed the slingshots to the Liberal position,this thing eats balls quick!IMG_1258_(resized).JPGIMG_1258_(resized).JPGIMG_1264_(resized).JPGIMG_1264_(resized).JPG

Another coat of wax and replace all bulbs/ ready to play the snot out of it!IMG_1267_(resized).JPGIMG_1267_(resized).JPG

#18 8 years ago

I have a repro backglass if anyone is looking https://pinside.com/pinball/market/ad/21945

#19 8 years ago

Klondike is on my short list of wanted pins. It's the first pin that I clearly remember playing when it was new & I actually won some replays. Thought I was hot shit as I recall.

1 year later
#20 7 years ago

Holy crap! I am getting more into EMs, and I have a Klondike...I didn't know you could take the
entire pile of guts out of it!! Amazing picture!

I'll have to look at mine and see how you did that. Mine works great, but I bet there is lots of
cleaning and adjusting I could do. I bet it hasn't been touched in decades. Only the head area has
had attention, as I worked out many gummed up mechanisms and a scoring issue.

Still reeling at that picture of all the parts on the table....wow.

#21 7 years ago

Kansas, thankfully I have a dedicated shop now and no longer use the kitchen table! Removing the boards is standard procedure for me now, it makes it so much easier to work on something rather than bending over inside a machine. Some folks here use a rotating device to service boards but I haven't built one yet (348 bucks for a ready made).
Some people do not recommend doing this invasive procedure for a novice, rather just fixing what is malfunctioning. For me this is the only way to guarantee trouble-free play.
Since this article the Klondike has been played 1300+ times without error.
Read up all you can on EM repair,dive in and try to organize tools/parts.

1 month later
#22 7 years ago

Checked in the other klondike thread, but would anyone here be able to post a pic of their bell unit? Mines missing bits and I'd like to return it to normal.

IMG_7236 (resized).JPGIMG_7236 (resized).JPG

#23 7 years ago

When I pull my Touchdown pin out tomorrow I'll take a picture for you, same unit.

The striker lever is available, I think I saw on Marco or over at PBR

#24 7 years ago

These should help

DSCN7715 (resized).JPGDSCN7715 (resized).JPG

DSCN7714 (resized).JPGDSCN7714 (resized).JPG

#25 7 years ago

Dendoc, sorry I missed your request, the photos provided by gdonovan look great.

#26 6 years ago

I think this is what you are looking for

http://pbresource.com/bells.html

WLL-1A3610+ $4.23ea

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/first-em-williams-klondike?hl=phil-lee and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.