(Topic ID: 237258)

First EM Help, Grand Prix!


By LoganJK

1 year ago



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  • Latest reply 1 year ago by EMsInKC
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#1 1 year ago

I picked up a Grand Prix and I'm really excited to learn more about cleaning, repairing and maintaining this machine. I'm pretty good repairing modern machines and I've watched tons of My Vintage Pinball on youtube the last couple months. I want to get the game playing 100% before I start a deep clean and it is close but I need some help.

The game sometimes plays perfectly but I have a few issues that I think are all related to the solenoid that fires the 1000's digit on the first player score reel. Here are the issues:

* Game start, ball doesn't eject and there is a loud buzzing sound from mentioned solenoid
* Game start, when the score resets the 1000 digit gets stuck, if you manually reset it ball ejects and game plays
* Game start, 1100 points are awarded when ball ejects
* During game play a shot to the right spinner causes mentioned solenoid to buzz and the chimes and kick outs stop working, the rest of the game plays fine. If you drain the game is stuck but if you manage to hit the right spinner again it sometimes comes back to life and everything works again.

Also, can someone point me in the right direction to get coin mechs for this machine? THANKS!

#2 1 year ago

You'll need to first pull out the 1000 point score reel assembly and take a close look at its switches to see how they operate. Manually rotate the score reel by pushing in the solenoid plunger. The score reel should smoothly click to the different number positions. Make sure the switches are clean and adjusted properly. If the score reel is sticking, it will need to be disassembled and cleaned. Also, take a look at the 1000 point relay and examine those switches...

You can usually find 25 cent coin mechs on Ebay. 5 cent and 10 cent coin mechs are a little bit tougher to find. I found a listing at one of the pinball parts retailers, but I don't know the quality of these mechs:

https://www.pinballlife.com/25-cent-standard-coin-mech.html

#3 1 year ago

So you are the one that snapped it up, didn't stay listed very long.
If the spinners are not "balanced", that is if they do not return to open switch status the outhole and other features will not work until the switch is open.
I adjusted each spinner, switch and activation arm to where it is free, centered and not binding in any way, also waxed/polished the wire pivot arms.
The trick is to tighten down the spinner unit gently side to side while checking free motion.

#4 1 year ago

Yep that was me, I have been in the market for an EM with spinners for a few months and this was the perfect pin. Probably paid a little too much for it but it has all the original manuals and was kept in a heated and cool space for the last few decades. Back glass was almost 100% perfect.

I will take a look at the spinners tonight when I have time try to tackle cleaning the score reel.

#5 1 year ago

Looked like a nice machine with all paperwork, I don't think you paid too much, I'm getting ready to list one for several hundred more in like shape. Grand Prix is very desirable machine with many people looking for one. Even though they made many they rarely come up for sale since so many owners keep them forever.
Keep us posted on your spinner issue, its an art to get them right and I am still learning myself.

#6 1 year ago

Well you picked a doozie for your first one. probably more relays and steppers than any other EM game.

tackle issues one at a time, and don't get caught up in thinking one issue is related to the next, they often aren't.

So let's start with the 1000 points and your stuck/buzzing score reels and relays.

Yes, clean and adjust the 1000 point reel. But also put the game on player 2 and see if it's still happening. If it isn't, it's probably the 1000 point reel. If it is, check the often overlooked 1000 point relay in the back of the head. In fact, clean/adjust (if needed) all of the point relays in the back of the head. These are often a source of trouble and people don't even realize it.

On my Grand Prix, the game wouldn't score AT ALL. No points. I checked all sorts of the usual suspects (index relay/game over etc.) before realize every single one of the scoring relays in the head needed attention. That's where I'd check first. Good news is these are very easy to locate and service.

You also may have a stuck 100 point switch somewhere on the playfield which could explain the weird spinner and eject issues. But again, could also be those point relays.

Good luck buddy! You are gonna need it!

#7 1 year ago

Check your game for cold solder joints. On my Grand Prix it wouldn't eject a ball. The wire looked like it was soldered to the coil but it had a loose solder joint. I had 3-4 other wires on the game with bad joints. Give them all a tug and make sure they are soldered on securely. You also need to methodically go through all score reels and make sure they are adjusted right. Took me a while to get my game running but it has been Rock solid since going through everything.

Congrats on the pickup! Grand Prix is one of my favorite EMs. Just curious as to what you picked yours up for? I paid $750 for mine around Christmas non working but with good cosmetics. Thought at the time I might have overpaid but the game was within an hour drive and now that it's playing great it seems well worth the money!

#8 1 year ago
Quoted from fredsmythson:

You'll need to first pull out the 1000 point score reel assembly and take a close look at its switches to see how they operate. Manually rotate the score reel by pushing in the solenoid plunger. The score reel should smoothly click to the different number positions. Make sure the switches are clean and adjusted properly. If the score reel is sticking, it will need to be disassembled and cleaned. Also, take a look at the 1000 point relay and examine those switches...
You can usually find 25 cent coin mechs on Ebay. 5 cent and 10 cent coin mechs are a little bit tougher to find. I found a listing at one of the pinball parts retailers, but I don't know the quality of these mechs:
https://www.pinballlife.com/25-cent-standard-coin-mech.html

I was able to pull out the assembly, I was really impressed with the way they lock in place are are so easy to pop out. At first, I thought I was going to have to de-solder like 30 connections to take it out lol. Everything looked fine except the solenoid which was almost black. I have a new solenoid on order but for the mean time I moved a working solenoid from player 4 to player 1. I got it in and the score is reseting perfectly when you start a new game. Thanks for a link to the coin mech, I will tackle this at a later date.

Quoted from phil-lee:

Looked like a nice machine with all paperwork, I don't think you paid too much, I'm getting ready to list one for several hundred more in like shape. Grand Prix is very desirable machine with many people looking for one. Even though they made many they rarely come up for sale since so many owners keep them forever.
Keep us posted on your spinner issue, its an art to get them right and I am still learning myself.

So I got to take a look at the spinner last night. I was still getting the loud buzz and game shutting down when hitting the left spinner hard, a soft hit with just a few rotations was fine. The spinner was balanced pretty well but when I lifted the play field I noticed the copper connector to register each spin was bent funny. There were 2 screws I loosened and made some small adjustments until it was working perfectly. Got the glass back on and back to 100% minus the 4th player until I get that solenoid. I rolled it over last night and got around 1.3 million!

Quoted from CrazyLevi:

Well you picked a doozie for your first one. probably more relays and steppers than any other EM game.
Good luck buddy! You are gonna need it!

That's kinda my style, thanks Levi

Quoted from MikeS:

Check your game for cold solder joints. On my Grand Prix it wouldn't eject a ball. The wire looked like it was soldered to the coil but it had a loose solder joint. I had 3-4 other wires on the game with bad joints. Give them all a tug and make sure they are soldered on securely. You also need to methodically go through all score reels and make sure they are adjusted right. Took me a while to get my game running but it has been Rock solid since going through everything.
Congrats on the pickup! Grand Prix is one of my favorite EMs. Just curious as to what you picked yours up for? I paid $750 for mine around Christmas non working but with good cosmetics. Thought at the time I might have overpaid but the game was within an hour drive and now that it's playing great it seems well worth the money!

I paid $900, it was working and the back glass is beautiful. I assume that spinner issue I fixed was caused when I transported the game. The play field is okay, it has the common insert issues so I plan on getting a play field protector. Is there one anyone recommends??

I think the next project will be the lights. I have many bulbs to replace. I also noticed that the left bonus lights (5000-50,0000) don't light up and I thought they were all dead, but when you score left bonus the lights DO light up as they count down through the bonuses. Has this happened to anyone?

Some random questions,

What play field angle do you guys like?

How do you turn on/off extra ball, is this an option?

Dumb question, Can you turn down the solenoids that hit the chimes? Our daughter is 1 week old :/

#9 1 year ago

For the extra ball/free game, there should be a plug that you move to select.

For the chimes, lay a rag on top of the bars. That will deaden the sound, or not bother and she will get used to them.

#10 1 year ago
Quoted from LoganJK:

it has the common insert issues so I plan on getting a play field protector. Is there one anyone recommends??

There is only one (Playfield Protectors in Germany),though there are several Vendors, expect to pay around 140 dollars unless you catch a sale.

Quoted from LoganJK:

Has this happened to anyone?

They light in sequential order up the lane.

Quoted from LoganJK:

Can you turn down the solenoids that hit the chimes?

The chimes have a simple 4-prong Jones plug connecting them to the right female bank at the front of the bottom board, with power unplugged (too close to the transformer and live voltage to stick your hand in there) pull the plug. The Knocker also plugs in here.

#11 1 year ago
Quoted from Billc479:

For the extra ball/free game, there should be a plug that you move to select.
For the chimes, lay a rag on top of the bars. That will deaden the sound, or not bother and she will get used to them.

Great tip, thank you.

Quoted from phil-lee:

There is only one (Playfield Protectors in Germany),though there are several Vendors, expect to pay around 140 dollars unless you catch a sale.

Hard to complain about the price, thanks.

New issue, the left kick out sometimes doesn't work. I checked it out and everything underneath looks identical to the right kick out. I played several times but I can't quite pin point when it decides to stop working. When it gets stuck if you turn the game off and on and press start it does not eject. Remove the glass, drain the ball and the game plays fine until the right kick out randomly decides to give up. More details tomorrow.

#12 1 year ago

I got the tilt bob set up last night, the previous owner had bent it out of the way. I've got it really tight and I love it.

The ball on the rail that's right above the normal tilt bob, is that the rage tilt?

#13 1 year ago
Quoted from LoganJK:

The ball on the rail that's right above the normal tilt bob, is that the rage tilt?

That's the anti-lift tilt. It tilts the game if a player tries to lift the game to avoid losing the ball as it's about to drain.

#14 1 year ago

Game is playing well but I still have a couple issues with the left bonus hole not registering, but only sometimes. I also noticed that when you advance the bonus on that side it won't go past 45000.

I check all the connections I could and everything looks fine. I think my next step is to go over all the copper connectors with a jewelry file.

#15 1 year ago
Quoted from LoganJK:

I think my next step is to go over all the copper connectors with a jewelry file

That would be a mistake. This forum is full of posts from people who tried shotgun cleaning & adjustments, and caused more problems than they were originally trying to solve.
What to do instead: Slowly and carefully diagnose one problem at a time and then fix only that.
http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index2.htm#clean

Quoted from LoganJK:

the left bonus hole not registering

Please be more specific what the problem is.

#16 1 year ago
Quoted from HowardR:

Please be more specific what the problem is.

Okay so when you start a game everything works fine, specifically both spinners advance their bonuses and both holes score bonus, reset it back and kick the ball out. After playing for a few minutes the ball will go into the left bonus hole and the game will do nothing. If you pull back the glass and press down the switch on the right hole the solenoid kicker fires and the ball is kicked out (both kickers are on the same solenoid) but the left kicker will continue to not work if you go in it again. The only way I have found to make the right hole work again is to restart the game.

What is really weird is I can't pin point when the hole stops working. I've played full games with the ball kicking out fine the entire time but then sometimes I will only get to ball 2 and it will get stuck on the first shot to the hole.

I looked at it last night and I have a feeling the problem is somewhere in here because I can't find any other obvious issues.

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#17 1 year ago

With machine reset and power off observe the left bonus unit;
Are contact fingers aligned on copper rivets in zero position? (Manual illustrates zero position)
As you manually activate bonus unit do finger move smoothly from rivet to rivet maintaining good contact and proper position?
Is brown bakelight rivet panel in line with steel unit as a whole? There are screws under contact finger unit to adjust.

#18 1 year ago
Quoted from LoganJK:

Okay so when you start a game everything works fine, specifically both spinners advance their bonuses and both holes score bonus, reset it back and kick the ball out. After playing for a few minutes the ball will go into the left bonus hole and the game will do nothing. If you pull back the glass and press down the switch on the right hole the solenoid kicker fires and the ball is kicked out (both kickers are on the same solenoid) but the left kicker will continue to not work if you go in it again. The only way I have found to make the right hole work again is to restart the game.
What is really weird is I can't pin point when the hole stops working. I've played full games with the ball kicking out fine the entire time but then sometimes I will only get to ball 2 and it will get stuck on the first shot to the hole.
I looked at it last night and I have a feeling the problem is somewhere in here because I can't find any other obvious issues.[quoted image]

Check the "delay" relay. It's hanging underneath the playfield.

The point of this relay is when you hit the spinners, it keeps the kickout holes (all of them!) from scoring until the spinner stops. It's activated by the spinners.

The problem is when it acts up, the kickout holes will never register.

This could be your problem.

If not check the eject hole relay, could be a switch in there.

#19 1 year ago
Quoted from phil-lee:

With machine reset and power off observe the left bonus unit;
Are contact fingers aligned on copper rivets in zero position? (Manual illustrates zero position)
As you manually activate bonus unit do finger move smoothly from rivet to rivet maintaining good contact and proper position?
Is brown bakelight rivet panel in line with steel unit as a whole? There are screws under contact finger unit to adjust.

Quoted from CrazyLevi:

Check the "delay" relay. It's hanging underneath the playfield.
The point of this relay is when you hit the spinners, it keeps the kickout holes (all of them!) from scoring until the spinner stops. It's activated by the spinners.
The problem is when it acts up, the kickout holes will never register.
This could be your problem.
If not check the eject hole relay, could be a switch in there.

You guys are great, I will check after work and update.

#20 1 year ago
Quoted from LoganJK:

After playing for a few minutes the ball will go into the left bonus hole and the game will do nothing

When the ball goes in the left bonus hole and the game does nothing = the Left Bonus relay doesn't activate, Inspect and diagnose this circuit with Alligator clip jumper wires
http://www.planetimming.com/Pinball/troubleshooting/EM%20Troubleshooting.pdf
http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index3.htm#features

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#21 1 year ago
Quoted from phil-lee:

With machine reset and power off observe the left bonus unit;
Are contact fingers aligned on copper rivets in zero position? (Manual illustrates zero position)
As you manually activate bonus unit do finger move smoothly from rivet to rivet maintaining good contact and proper position?
Is brown bakelight rivet panel in line with steel unit as a whole? There are screws under contact finger unit to adjust.

So I am pretty sure this is the issue. The contacts do not line up perfectly. I found the screws that adjust the unit but there wasn't enough wiggle room to adjust it to make it perfect. I think I am going to try to take it off the machine and make some more adjustments tonight. I think I know where the problem began. When I bought the machine the owner lifted the play field and rested it on the bonus unit before lifting it all the way up to show me the inside. Me being a novice to em's thought he was resting it on a normal support bar but in fact it was the left bonus unit. The guy owned it for 20+ years and I'm sure that wasn't the first time the bonus unit was used for support.

#22 1 year ago

Picture isn't great but shows the brown rivet panel isn't square with the rest of the unit
Remove spider, noting orientation on the shaft (it can only go on one of two ways).
Locate 4 screws that hold riveted plate onto steel backing, loosen and adjust till square. Tighten.
Replace spider and confirm it is in the zero/ start position.

When I was chasing this same bogeyman I discovered this as well as a switch on the score motor with arcing solder points. I am not sure which solved the issue but I believe the stepper was the culprit.

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#23 1 year ago
Quoted from HowardR:

That would be a mistake. This forum is full of posts from people who tried shotgun cleaning & adjustments, and caused more problems than they were originally trying to solve.
What to do instead: Slowly and carefully diagnose one problem at a time and then fix only that.
http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index2.htm#clean

Please be more specific what the problem is.

#24 1 year ago
Quoted from HowardR:

That would be a mistake. This forum is full of posts from people who tried shotgun cleaning & adjustments, and caused more problems than they were originally trying to solve.
What to do instead: Slowly and carefully diagnose one problem at a time and then fix only that.
http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index2.htm#clean

Please be more specific what the problem is.

#25 1 year ago

emsinkc Can you elaborate on your emoji's? Thanks!

#26 1 year ago
Quoted from LoganJK:

emsinkc Can you elaborate on your emoji's? Thanks!

The first statement quoted is not true. This forum is not full of such posts, no matter how many time it gets repeated.

You could mess things up if you're careless but if you understand how relays and switches work you will be ok.

#27 1 year ago
Quoted from EMsInKC:

if you understand how relays and switches work you will be ok

Understanding isn't enough. Inexperienced fingers routinely bump into delicate internal parts and throw them out of adjustment.

#28 1 year ago
Quoted from HowardR:

Understanding isn't enough. Inexperienced fingers routinely bump into delicate internal parts and throw them out of adjustment.

Delicate? LOL

The only way to learn is to get in there and do it. If you're scared to touch things you'll never learn.

#29 1 year ago
Quoted from EMsInKC:

Delicate? LOL
The only way to learn is to get in there and do it. If you're scared to touch things you'll never learn.

You really think unleashing a newbie to "shotgun" a mostly working Grand Prix is a great idea?

Not following you on this one man. Would likely cause more problems than he'd solve.

#30 1 year ago
Quoted from CrazyLevi:

You really think unleashing a newbie to "shotgun" a mostly working Grand Prix is a great idea?
Not following you on this one man. Would likely cause more problems than he'd solve.

On this game, no. I was speaking more to the idea that guys screw up games all the time and post about it here. I would be very careful with this game, but then again, I continually post that guys shouldn't buy a GP as their first game, but they keep doing it. Better to start with a nice single player and go from there. It depends on what they do. Just cleaning points is not a real hard deal. If they start taking relays and steppers apart, that's something else.

If a noob can fix this game, nothing else will ever be hard.

You'll never learn if you don't try. I'm just weary of repetitive macro posts that aren't really true.

#31 1 year ago

Hi
what is meant (post-15) with "try shotgun cleaning - adjusting" - the dix knows "shotgun marriage", to give it a shot, to have a shot at. A shotgun is a type of gun, rifle, long gun, probably to shoot birds with special ammunition - does it mean "fast / careless working" ?
The first sentence in post-15 "That would be a mistake." - is it true or not true ? At least I would say "That would be superfluous".
But maybe the second sentence in post-15 is "attacked": "This forum is full of posts ... caused more problems ...". How about "In this forum there are too many posts ...".
It makes me shiver when a newbie states: "Maybe the fault is in Score-Motor-Switch 1A or 3C - I'm gonna adjust all the motor switches". I use Jumper-Wires and/or Test-Lights to nail down "the fault must be on this switch" - then I do work on this switch.
I may use slightly other words - but overall I agree with HowardR 's post-15. Greetings Rolf

#32 1 year ago
Quoted from EMsInKC:

On this game, no. I was speaking more to the idea that guys screw up games all the time and post about it here. I would be very careful with this game, but then again, I continually post that guys shouldn't buy a GP as their first game, but they keep doing it. Better to start with a nice single player and go from there. It depends on what they do. Just cleaning points is not a real hard deal. If they start taking relays and steppers apart, that's something else.
If a noob can fix this game, nothing else will ever be hard.
You'll never learn if you don't try. I'm just weary of repetitive macro posts that aren't really true.

Stop hijacking other peoples' repair threads, emsinkc, to indulge your sibling rivalry.

#33 1 year ago
Quoted from rolf_martin_062:

what is meant (post-15) with "try shotgun cleaning - adjusting"

Unlike other types of guns that fire a single bullet projectile, a shotgun fires multiple pellets (like numerous small ball bearings). When the shot (proper word for the pellets) exists the barrel, it spreads out in a circular pattern. So if you fire a shotgun at a wall, you'll have a scattering of hits roughly in a circular pattern.

"Shotgun cleaning" implies a semi-random pattern of "just clean / adjust anything that *might* be related to the problem and see if the problem goes away". For someone who lacks experience cleaning and adjusting switches, there is a significant chance that this approach will introduce new problems without actually solving the original issues.

#34 1 year ago
Quoted from HowardR:

Stop hijacking other peoples' repair threads, emsinkc, to indulge your sibling rivalry.

I think this is Macro #4

#35 1 year ago

Sorry if this is off topic but what is the best way of carefully adjusting and cleaning switches?

#36 1 year ago
Quoted from Slips:

Sorry if this is off topic but what is the best way of carefully adjusting and cleaning switches?

You'll get a lot of different answers on this one, so I'll give you mine.

You need an adjustment tool that you can buy from PBR. I like to take the boards out of the game where I can put them up on a bench and see them clearly. If you don't have the time or want to do it this way, you can clean them in the game. Just make sure you have plenty of light, especially when dealing with short frame Gottlieb AG relays that have very little throw. If you're using a flexstone, pinch the blades closed when you file to get both points.

Regular voltage contact points can be cleaned with a flexstone file. I have one I still use, but my go to now, and others on here, is a wire brush on a Dremel tool. You can clean them very quickly using one of these and it does a great job. It works better if you unscrew the relay from the board. It works even better if you remove the switch stack from the relay itself. That's a bit more advanced to do that so a flexstone file might be your best bet.

On adjusting, the first thing you should always do is tighten down the switch stacks. Over time, the bakelite spacers dry out and shrink and the screws get loose. Tighten then up, doing the screw closest to the blades first. Then, use the adjustment tool only on the short blade, not the long blade that inserts into the armature. It's a balance between getting it too close which can cause vibrations to accidently close the switch, and too far apart and it won't close. I adjust mine to where you can see a tiny bit of deflection on the short blade when the switch closes. One of the banes of EM games is the switch that looks like it is making, but isn't, and the converse, the switch that looks like it is opening, but isn't.

I guess I can be accused of using the so called "shotgun" method of cleaning and adjusting. What I say to that is, I get these games, quite often pretty dirty and quite often barely working, or not working at all. To me, it makes a ton of sense to clean it all up. I figure, yeah, I can only fix the parts that are keeping it from working, but eventually another problem is going to crop up. So I do them all. It takes time. It's tedious. You basically are looking at every single switch in the game. However, when you're done, assuming you have checked to make sure every switch is doing what it is supposed to do, you stand a pretty good chance of the game operating perfectly. It doesn't always happen, but then the adjustments are easy to make and you're good to go. I generally don't have to do much with my games once they're are restored like this. I know it's not from everyone, and often it might not be needed, but it has worked well for me. I've been doing this for awhile and my experience level is higher, but still, you're never going to learn how to really work on these games unless you really work on them. Being scared to dive in there and get your hands dirty and learn how to do it isn't the way to go, IMO. Now, if you've never worked on a game and you buy a Grand Prix, then all bets are off. That's the only game I've ever been afraid to do this on. It's more complex and it's crowded as hell in there but still, if you pay attention to what you're doing and take your time, you'll be ok. This is not building the space shuttle here.

#37 1 year ago
Quoted from HowardR:

Stop hijacking other peoples' repair threads, emsinkc, to indulge your sibling rivalry.

Quoted from EMsInKC:

I think this is Macro #4

Whatever you want to call it, it's clearly still needed.

#38 1 year ago
Quoted from HowardR:

Whatever you want to call it, it's clearly still needed.

Clearly, it's not. I have no clue what the hell you're talking about with "sibling rivalry" and I'm pretty sure you don't either, but it's in the macro, so posted it gets.

#39 1 year ago
Quoted from EMsInKC:

Clearly, it's not. I have no clue what the hell you're talking about with "sibling rivalry" and I'm pretty sure you don't either, but it's in the macro, so posted it gets.

And nobody knows what you're talking about with the word "macro"

#40 1 year ago
Quoted from EMsInKC:

Clearly, it's not. I have no clue what the hell you're talking about with "sibling rivalry" and I'm pretty sure you don't either, but it's in the macro, so posted it gets.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sibling_rivalry

#41 1 year ago
Quoted from HowardR:

And nobody knows what you're talking about with the word "macro"

Oh, I think they do.

And I have no siblings.

Pinball has some interesting people in it for sure.

#42 1 year ago

Whoa thread.

Good news! I fixed it! It indeed was the left bonus unit. I had more than 5 minutes to look at the diagram in the resting position and it was off but a full contact. I got everything perfectly aligned and nice and tight. Every issue with the left bonus is gone and most of the light bulbs on the bonus strips that I thought were out are working too! Thank you phil-lee

Now to move on to some other things. I'm missing this post near the left bonus in the picture. Is this it? https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-3905 Where can I find a parts list for this machine?

Next projects on the list are cleaning, coin mechs and play field protector.

Screen Shot 2019-03-07 at 10.26.12 PM (resized).png
#43 1 year ago

here's the picture of mine

DSC00397 (resized).JPG
#44 1 year ago
Quoted from luch:

here's the picture of mine
[quoted image]

Interesting rubber placement with it coming out to front red post, I stop at post behind it and place a small post ring on the front. Not sure which is correct.

#45 1 year ago

yes i saw that as well , does anyone know which is correct ?

#46 1 year ago

The manual doesn't show that post if I am reading correctly. Page 9 of https://www.ipdb.org/files/1072/Williams_1976_Grand_Prix_Manual.pdf

#47 1 year ago

The picture I posted was from the Grand Prix currently for sale for 1500 OBO on pinside.

Quoted from PSchwisow:

The manual doesn't show that post if I am reading correctly. Page 9 of https://www.ipdb.org/files/1072/Williams_1976_Grand_Prix_Manual.pdf

Yeah that is the image I went to first and they weren't on there. Maybe those posts were an afterthought to make the game more difficult? Interesting that they made 10,000 of these and never updated the manual. I'm curious, anyone know how long it took them to make all 10,000?

I've also done a bunch of emailing to try to find replacement drop targets (my C and D are broken). So far no luck. I think my next step might be to find someone interested in 3D printing them. Anyone have any ideas?

#48 1 year ago

I have read many posts and comments that these drop targets are not available, very hard to find. I find this hard to believe when so many obscure parts have been reproduced for less popular machines.
I put mylar on mine to help protect. I think they should be machined out of aluminum.

#49 1 year ago
Quoted from phil-lee:

I have read many posts and comments that these drop targets are not available, very hard to find. I find this hard to believe when so many obscure parts have been reproduced for less popular machines.
I put mylar on mine to help protect. I think they should be machined out of aluminum.

https://://www.flippers.com/catalog/product_info.phhttpsp/drop-target-bullseye-p-5544

#50 1 year ago
Quoted from phil-lee:

I have read many posts and comments that these drop targets are not available, very hard to find. I find this hard to believe when so many obscure parts have been reproduced for less popular machines.
I put mylar on mine to help protect. I think they should be machined out of aluminum.

Flippers.com has them, but they are expensive. $25 a piece.

https://www.flippers.com/catalog/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=drop+target&search_in_description=1

Scroll down and it's there.

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