(Topic ID: 156516)

First coil replacement - Few Questions - TAF Knocker

By loneacer

8 years ago



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  • Latest reply 8 years ago by loneacer
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#1 8 years ago

Working on my first restoration. The more I get into it, the more I see just how many parts were broken or flat out missing. Excluding basic hardware, I'm probably replacing 90% of the parts. I'm working on the knocker assembly. It was missing a nut, the grommet, had the wrong spring, the coil sleeve was broken, and the coil plastic was cracked. So every part is getting replaced but the bracket. Here I have it assembled as I think it should be. My questions:

I put the coil sleeve flange between the top of the coil and the bracket (as I have labeled in the picture). That seems correct as it can't move either way now. Is this where it goes?

On a coil without a diode, does it matter which lugs you solder each wire to? If so, how do you tell?

Is there a preferred orientation of the coil? The manual has it the way I have it in the picture. Originally mine was assembled with the lugs towards the backbox (probably because that's where the connector is). All the HEP pictures have the lugs face down with the coil rotated 180 degrees. If it matters which lug is hot, would rotating it 180 degrees mean you wire it the opposite way?

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#3 8 years ago

A reply from the master himself. Thanks HEP! I didn't even consider the lugs hitting the bracket.

I really appreciate the detailed pictures on your site. I'm doing a cabinet swap, so using yours for a reference on where to run all the wires and such is helping tremendously. I bought a replacement cabinet from VirtuaPin, but they didn't run the ground braid to all the spots that the original cabinet and your restores do.

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