(Topic ID: 150874)

DONE DONE AND DONE ***first attempt at cabinet restoration(pinbot).


By cosmokramer

3 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 339 posts
  • 69 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by HypnoRaygun
  • Topic is favorited by 79 Pinsiders

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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider mustangpaul.
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#13 3 years ago

I'll be following this, I'll be doing this to my BOP when the inside of my garage/shop is done. Make sure you put the HD cab braces on.

1 week later
#27 3 years ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

Purchased heavy duty leg plates/cab braces (thanks MustangPaul) $20 spent

It's coming along real good. When I put those HD brace's in HS I hogged out the puny #6 screw holes and put big honkin #12s in. When I rebuild I go REAL HD.

1 week later
#32 3 years ago

Makin some good progress. If your so inclined while your workin on the cab you might want to think about replacing the start button with an Angle Eye lit metal start button. I put them on 3 of my games and they really look cool. They are 12v but still light up nice with 6.3v from the coin door bulbs. You need a 22mm diameter one and can get them on ebay.

#36 3 years ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

damn those are slick...thanks...even if I don't use them on this build I think they would look cool in some of my more modern games

It's a great mod, learned about them from beatmaster.

#49 3 years ago

Coin doors are cast pot metal aren't they or cast aluminum? You may melt bigger holes if you try welding them.

#50 3 years ago
Quoted from polyacanthus:

I'd fill those holes with 5min epoxy. Just put masking tape on the underside, fill it, peel off tape once cured. Maybe a little bondo to smooth it out.

Yeah, sand blast the door, epoxy a piece of metal behind the holes then fill the front with epoxy and sand smooth.

#54 3 years ago

Watch out for those threads in the leg plate, I spun 2 of them when I put them on HS, they are only pressed in and had a devil of a time getting the bolts out. I had to buy 2 new plates so I had a friend put a couple of spot welds on each thread "nut" or whatever ya want to call them.

#70 3 years ago

Which side of the coin is gonna show? Heads up I hope. Remember the old saying, Heads I win Tails you loose.

#77 3 years ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

Quick shot with hardware cleaned and re installed....nothing dramatic, just a little lipstick...
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Awh man ya should have gotten it chromed.

#80 3 years ago

You took the wire ties off the wires before you cleaned them didn't you? It looks like it.

#83 3 years ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

No, I could slide them a bit and clean underneath, I just added some extra wire ties in other areas

I see.

#90 3 years ago

Email them those pictures and ask them.

#101 3 years ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

And its all done with the exception of the clear...going to spray it with 2pac when I spray the cabinet...I am really happy with the way it turned out.
Time spent epoxying plugs and quarter, filler and sand, spray primer with wet sand between coats, bbq black paint with wet sand between coats, spritz laquer : One hour
dollars spent $20.25
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That looks better then new. VERY nice.

#109 3 years ago

With rattle can enamel I always spray, let dry for 3-4 days then sand and let dry for 3 days. Rinse and repeat as I see fit. The let dry for 3 days after sanding I found works great and no problems with the next coat.

1 week later
#123 3 years ago

When they paint a car they always spray the base coat then wet sand to get it smooth which dulls it then they spray the clear which gives it the shine. I'd do the same with the cab after you have all the colors down.

#137 3 years ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

I thought about it...

I know... a material defect from 30 years ago finds a way of kicking me in the nuts...nothing I can do but smile and move on

Yup.

#140 3 years ago
Quoted from trilogybeer:

That sucks , I would dish out ( make a slight angle into the affected area , starting about an inch past)that area around that so that you have more surface area for your last coat of filler .The filler will also be able to be feathered out then.

Yup.

#153 3 years ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

Back on track after a minor setback... dished out the area and filled it, sanded smooth and primed...If all goes well then I will spray final coats of black tomorrow and let it dry for about a week until I have time to stencil...Pinball Pimps stencils arrived yesterday.....
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Good fix.

#158 3 years ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

Finally got the last bit of black sprayed before we get some rain in So Cal. ... It looks good, I am probably a little too picky as I can find blemishes if I look hard enough but I learned a lot so far and am happy overall...I'm not sure why in these photos there seems to be white areas on the corners and such...must just be a flash issue, believe me the cab is all black!
Anyway, now I'm going to let the paint cure for awhile while I continue to completely dismantle the playfield for a good cleaning, service, and mylar polish with just a tiny bit of key line touch up...
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Yeah it's just the flash and external light. Looks great.

1 week later
#177 3 years ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

Also the stencil maker recommends removing the stencil before the paint dries. I don't see how I can prime a white/grey and then color with one stencil but like I said I don't really know what can or can't be done...after removing the stencil I could see that the color over black was OK and I did'nt need to go so thick...next sprays will go better....I am happy with the yellow, just need to touch up a few spots where the stencil or my finger left an imperfection but the red and yellow color both look correct....I had the head and cab in the sun after spraying today and could see many flaws overall, but inside the shop under the lights it really looked a lot better...looking forward to seeing it with the clear coat.

Yup cuz if you don't the paint could tare. Had that happen to me.

#184 3 years ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

not long...maybe 5 minutes between first light coat and second, then 5 more minutes between 2nd and 3rd...then about 12-15 minutes until stencil is removed

I like the look of the casual overspray from the factory, the stencils now give too crisp of a line I wish I could get results more like the original...and thanks for the kind words

Yeah the originals were big metal stencils that were layed on the cab.

#188 3 years ago

Yeah that looks really good. I hope you get good registration for the red on the cab, that's a big area.

#190 3 years ago
Quoted from Gryphun:

Cosmo,
How long did you wait until clearing your cabinet?
Thanks,
G

He hasn't cleared it yet, one more color to go.

#193 3 years ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

Yeah, when I started this project it was just going to be a quick cab repaint....then once I took the playfield out I told myself that a light cleaning would give me something to do in the down time between cab painting...I now have 30 hours into the playfield alone with another 10 to go....I was not going to touch the inside or underneath the cab but when I was painting the cab I figured I would just hit the inside quickly with some 60 grit, then it looked so much better I thought I would just prime it but ended up painting the entire inside...I guess I just cant bring myself to half ass any of this project so the eventually I will clean up the bottom of the cab....
This just keeps snowballing but I am having a great time doing it and I am now familiar with every nut, bolt and mechanism on a Pinbot!

That's the way to do it, half ass just won't cut it. Keep up the good work.

#196 3 years ago
Quoted from Gryphun:

Awesome work Cosmo.
Am in the middle of my Meteor restoration and will be adding an additional base coat to my cabinet and back box today ( I waited 3 days for the initial base coat to cure).

If your sanding the base coat I'd sand it and wait another day or 2 for that to cure also just to be on the safe side. I've painted enamel, waited 4 days for it to cure then sanded and layed another coat only to have it wrinkled because when I sanded it it exposed uncured paint and the new coat wrinkled. Just my experience.

#200 3 years ago

Looks like you had a bad day.....at least on that one side. But like you said, you learned a lot.

#208 3 years ago

I'm in the camp of "if it bugs you fix it".

#225 3 years ago
Quoted from PinballPimp:

GLAD everyone likes my stencils. If they are good enough for ME for over 10 years, they should be good enough for everyone else also!

I'd love to redo my Space Station using your stencils.

1 week later
#230 3 years ago

That's really something. Good to hear ya got it fixed.

1 week later
#245 3 years ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

I thought the same thing but red is the correct color...when I removed the start button it was red underneath...

Did you stack them like that when you cleared them?

#254 3 years ago

I hope the last coat is nice and flat for ya. Your doing a great job.

#256 3 years ago

Oh man what a mess, sorry to see that. Yeah that's gonna have to be sanded smooth. You should pm beatmaster and have him come here and take a look, his Space Shuttle came out perfect so he could give you some good advise.

#262 3 years ago

I'd wait 3 days ateh sand then wait 2 days just to make sure it's dry, especially after sanding.

#268 3 years ago
Quoted from Plumonium:

Question : Why paint with rattle cans but clear with automotive and spray gun? I know spray gun do a better job but should clear in cans do a well enough job for a pinball cabinet?
I repainted my aluminum exterior door and semi-matte clear afterwards and it came up really nice and even. It seems to hold up pretty well also. Using Painter's Touch clear semi-matte I think.

Automotive clear is A LOT tougher then that stuff.

#274 3 years ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

Another trip to the automotive paint supply, another $40 (these errors have been costly)...

Got a little busy at work, didn't get a chance to work on it again until this morning...I sanded the entire cabinet with 400 grit and the palm sander...it is amazing how long I could sand and not get to the paint underneath.. I was worried about sanding through to the artwork but I didn't come close... Its not perfectly smooth but its close and its a lot better than it was...now if I can just get a good coat of clear laid down with this next attempt I can move on to the next step....

To be honest at this point I have somewhat lost track of how much time I have invested in this, I know it is far more than I thought it would be. Although my plan was to accurately document time and dollars spent, I will have to ballpark the time (right now my estimate is between "a butt load" and "a shit ton") but I should be accurate on dollars (also approaching "butt load" status).
All in all I am still having a great time doing this however I must admit that my interest in the project did get tested here and there...and probably only one time did I consider setting it on fire...

Is that the done final sand before clear? It should look all white, you still have low spots.

#276 3 years ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

No, those photos are after palm sanding dry but before block sanding wet...I forgot to take pics of it after wet sanding (I will try to snap a few for those following along at home) ...Damn that automotive clear is tough stuff, but a little scary to spray considering the dangerous nature of the fumes and particles.

You had me worried there for a minute. Carry on. I have 4 coats of that stuff on my freshly painted Mustang.

#279 3 years ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

Got a much better coat of cleat laid down today...going to block sand again before another coat

Oh yes much better.

#281 3 years ago

Looks like your ready for the final sanding and buffing.

#303 3 years ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

This is the first time I have used these cab protectors, I don't like the way they look and will probably just remove them. I tried trimming them to make them look better but they still suck.

My light up ones would make the art work on the front sizzle.

#307 3 years ago

That looks so bright and vibrant, I love it. Good job.

#312 3 years ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

They look great, I am looking forward to installing some on my IMVE, MET and SM.
However I dont think that is the look I am going for on this machine.

I see.

#317 3 years ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

everything works 100% right out of the gate, got to play some games tonight...plays nice with the new flipper mechs
Pin Porn Pics...

No THAT'S what we love to hear AND see. Well done sir.

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