(Topic ID: 150874)

DONE DONE AND DONE ***first attempt at cabinet restoration(pinbot).

By cosmokramer

8 years ago


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There are 339 posts in this topic. You are on page 5 of 7.
#201 7 years ago

It's still a nice job Cosmo.
Most of the factory paint jobs were way worse than that. My old GL head for example...
One side was the standard factory bleed/trap and the other side looked like they placed the stencils two inches away from the cab, sprayed it together, and called it a day.
Give yourself a pass this time crack a beer and enjoy all the rest of your hard work up until now.

The PP stencils are supposed to have some bleeding/traps as per the original.
Imperfect is perfect when it comes to painting a cab.

#202 7 years ago

now that I have had some time to think about it perhaps the best course of action would be to remove any paint that didn't adhere and apply a new stencil to that side, scuff and re spray... Pinball Pimp offers to re make one stencil at a time if you mess up so I will have to order one (after I finish the other side just to make sure I only need one)
I feel like this guy but I'm getting over it...
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#203 7 years ago

Cosmo -

You think that it looks like S(*t - but in fact it looks pretty awesome. Like you said - just fix the portion that didn't stick well and you'll be good. I know the "I want to kick the sh)* out of something feeling. Hang in there you're almost done!

#204 7 years ago
Quoted from Pinterest:

I know the "I want to kick the sh)* out of something feeling.

I know who I want to kick the shit out of...

Welcome to the wonderful world of restorations, Cosmo! And I want to echo what Pinterest said...to the untrained eye, it looks incredible. I REALLY had to look for the flaws (because I've never owned a Pinbot so I don't know what I'm looking for), so 99% of the people wouldn't even know what was wrong. Have a second go at it and you'll be fine. Chin up, brother...

#205 7 years ago

It looks great overall. You have a plan to fix it, keep your head up and it will look great when you're done. Once its back together you'll forget all about it (mostly).

#206 7 years ago

I think they look fine. Think of your imperfections like the original factory overspray... fix the obvious ones that can easily be fixed. The small ones just add character.

Are you happy with the paint brand? Pinball stencils recommends Krylon or the Rustoleum 2x... Think the Rustoleum 2x would be different?

#207 7 years ago

When my wife got home yesterday I showed her the pictures and she said she couldnt see anything wrong...when I pointed out the missing circles on the helmet and arm and the irregular lines she kind of laughed and simply said "I'm sure you will fix it, it looks great"....thats when I looked at the photos again myself and it really does look good, the colors are great and really pop...once I fix up the paint error, put it in the line up and play it no one will even see a few minor imperfections...
Thanks for all the support...

Quoted from hd60609:

Are you happy with the paint brand? Pinball stencils recommends Krylon or the Rustoleum 2x... Think the Rustoleum 2x would be different?

I am happy with the krylon, the colors are a great match (rustoleum probably has similar colors) although both cans started to "spit" a bit at the end.... I think the coverage is similar to the 2x rustoleum

#208 7 years ago

I'm in the camp of "if it bugs you fix it".

#209 7 years ago

Cant say enough good things about Pinball Pimps stencils...I reached out to Jeff today and explained my mistake, he was kind enough to not only reply back to me today (saturday) but to cut the one stencil I need to fix the cab today as well ..
Great customer service...thanks Jeff

-1
#210 7 years ago

This is the great thing about paint... it can be fixed!

I'm suprised to hear about the adhesion issues. Did you converse with Jeff about his recommendations on that topic?

I would think sanding each color sounds excessive (and frustrating!)

#211 7 years ago

Back at it again today, however this time I am very happy with my results....the left side of the cab came out just like it was supposed to with no issues...after installing the stencil I used some 220 grit paper to scuff up only the areas of yellow to allow the red to get a bite, It has been sticking to the black areas ok the problem was only where the red sprayed over the yellow...
my guess is that the first color I sprayed was too thick, and had a surface like glass.. when I sprayed the second color over it I also sprayed it too thick and just got no adhesion....
Jeff already cut my replacement stencil and I should have it this week, once I respray the red on the right side of cab I am going to touch up a few spots where I have some minor blemishes and prepare the surface for clear coat...

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#212 7 years ago

side by side to really see how the first attempt failed...notice the missing red circles on helmet and wrist/elbow

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#213 7 years ago

Don't beat yourself up and don't give up. Delamination happens to everyone. There are lots of reasons it occurs. Keep up the good work!

#214 7 years ago
Quoted from Tbgolfen:

Don't beat yourself up and don't give up. Delamination happens to everyone. There are lots of reasons it occurs. Keep up the good work!

I got over it fairly quickly...just trying to document both my success and failures so anybody using this for reference doesnt make the same mistakes
Thank you for the words of encouragement, several people in this thread have been cheering me on and it really helps get past the setbacks...

#215 7 years ago

Before you clear scuff it so the clear will adhere properly .

#216 7 years ago
Quoted from trilogybeer:

Before you clear scuff it so the clear will adhere properly .

What grit do you recommend?

#217 7 years ago

Knock down the paint edges, so the clear lays out flat, too

#218 7 years ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

What grit do you recommend?

Depends on the clear you are using , but when I scuff before clear I use a red scotchbrite pad . Other clears gray sctotchbrite ( which is finer) is recommended . You won't need to press hard or realy get at it , just make sure you don't have any shiny surfaces before clearing .

#219 7 years ago

Looking good Cosmo!! Pinbot is one of the pins ive wanted for a while and it looks like your going to have a super nive one when your done!

#220 7 years ago

And like vid said knock down the edges of the artwork . Also clean , blow off everything , and use a tack rag . Cleaning with a degreaser should eliminate the chance of fisheyes in the clear . And blowing it off and tack rag should get rid of the dust .

#221 7 years ago

This looks awesome! I finally finished priming my cabinet and sprayed the base color today. Have to clear it tomorrow night after work!

If you need to - I'd knock down the edges by wet sanding with 1000 grit.

Awesome work - I'll be happy if mine looks half as good as yours does!

#222 7 years ago

great thread!

#223 7 years ago

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#224 7 years ago

GLAD everyone likes my stencils. If they are good enough for ME for over 10 years, they should be good enough for everyone else also!

#225 7 years ago
Quoted from PinballPimp:

GLAD everyone likes my stencils. If they are good enough for ME for over 10 years, they should be good enough for everyone else also!

I'd love to redo my Space Station using your stencils.

#226 7 years ago
Quoted from PinballPimp:

GLAD everyone likes my stencils. If they are good enough for ME for over 10 years, they should be good enough for everyone else also!

Just finishing a Fathom with your stencils. Great product!

#227 7 years ago
Quoted from trilogybeer:

Depends on the clear you are using , but when I scuff before clear I use a red scotchbrite pad . Other clears gray sctotchbrite ( which is finer) is recommended . You won't need to press hard or realy get at it , just make sure you don't have any shiny surfaces before clearing .

The pads I used for this work were the maroon scotchbrite pads. It's about a 300 grit or so. I let mine sit for a couple days and then scuffed the whole cabinet. I would also suggest that if your going to clear the cabinet in the end anyway, you can just as easily scuff the whole cabinet in between each color and that will ensure that each color sticks. I found it also helps to knock down the edge so it's a smooth transition between colors

#228 7 years ago

quick update...re stenciling went good, both sides look the same (forgot pictures but I'm sure by now you get the point)...I wont have time to start the clear coat process until next weekend, hopefully that will go smoothly...before that I will sand cab to knock down edges and give clear some grip

Quoted from Tallon:

scuff the whole cabinet in between each color

this would have prevented my problem...next time I will get it right

Quoted from SUPERBEE:

Looking good Cosmo!! Pinbot is one of the pins ive wanted for a while and it looks like your going to have a super nive one when your done!

Quoted from Pinterest:

This looks awesome! I finally finished priming my cabinet and sprayed the base color today. Have to clear it tomorrow night after work!
If you need to - I'd knock down the edges by wet sanding with 1000 grit.
Awesome work - I'll be happy if mine looks half as good as yours does!

Quoted from Whysnow:

great thread!

Quoted from girloveswaffles:

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thanks...

1 week later
#229 7 years ago

Had a little something interesting happen when I removed the last stencil....I was admiring my work when I looked at the robot on the left side and noticed that one of the squares in his chest was stark white??...I was scratching my head, it was yellow just moments before, my primer was grey,I had a black base with red and yellow accents...where did the white come from?
(Photo coming)
Upon further inspection I found that although the stencil was properly cut for this square the vinyl was not removed...I did not notice it and painted yellow as needed...when I removed the stencil for the yellow the vinyl square stayed attatched to the cab as the rest of the stencil peeled away..leaving a perfect looking yellow square, just like the rest of them...
So then, as I was peeling off the next (red) stencil, it peeled all the yellow off the vinyl square but did not remove the vinyl from the cab...leaving a perfect white square that should have been yellow...
I removed the piece of vinyl stencil and used frog tape to mask for a quick spray job...

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It came out great and I spent a bit of time using a very fine art brush to touch up a few imperfections and sanded entire cab and head for the next step....
(Photo coming)

#230 7 years ago

That's really something. Good to hear ya got it fixed.

#231 7 years ago

this thread has given me the courage to finally tackle my first stencil job (and nice enough weather to use the detached garage again).

I will make a thread once I get to it.

#232 7 years ago

Glad you caught it. Clearing over it would have taken it to the next level but not in a good way.

#233 7 years ago

Yeah, that happens. Whoever weeded the stencil forgot one sq. Glas you caught it in time to do a quick fix.

#234 7 years ago

I was preparing to move to the next step of preparing the cab and head for clear coat and needed naphtha, after checking several sources I found out naphtha is not available in Ca.... after some on line research I found that this coleman fuel is indeed naphtha...
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I used 320 grit paper to knock down any edges and made sure that all shiny spots were sanded dull...then cleaned with rag and naphtha, followed by tack cloth...then sprayed first a light coat, then a heavier coat of clear...It came out well with no drips or obvious blemishes...

Special Note:
2 part auto clear is nasty stuff... make sure to always wear a respirator, gloves, and safety goggles (chemical type that seal against your face, not safety glasses)
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#235 7 years ago

Rich looking! Love the color depth. Nice job.

#236 7 years ago

Cosmo,

You can buy Naphtha ( I live in CA as well) for a reasonable price.

You just need to buy via Amazon - for whatever reason there is a loophole.

#237 7 years ago
Quoted from Gryphun:

Cosmo,
You can buy Naphtha ( I live in CA as well) for a reasonable price.
You just need to buy via Amazon - for whatever reason there is a loophole.

Yes, I did see it available via amazon or e-bay, but I didnt attempt to source it until the last minute as I assumed it would be an over the counter sale...
Next step is to let the clear cure, check for any last minute touch ups, then block sand to prepare for final clear coat....I will also clear the coin door and frame at that time...

#238 7 years ago

Hey Cosmo,

I'm wondering, the red/orange on the cab looks way more red that any Pïnbot that I'm seen before. Is it the picture that makes it look red instead of orange of it is red indeed? Again, all Pinbot I've seen before are orange and yellow and I don't think it is because they were faded.

Thanks!

#239 7 years ago
Quoted from Plumonium:

Hey Cosmo,
I'm wondering, the red/orange on the cab looks way more red that any Pïnbot that I'm seen before. Is it the picture that makes it look red instead of orange of it is red indeed? Again, all Pinbot I've seen before are orange and yellow and I don't think it is because they were faded.
Thanks!

I thought the same thing but red is the correct color...when I removed the start button it was red underneath...

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#240 7 years ago

Looking good! Every step is a step closer to the finish.

#241 7 years ago
Quoted from Plumonium:

Hey Cosmo,
I'm wondering, the red/orange on the cab looks way more red that any Pïnbot that I'm seen before. Is it the picture that makes it look red instead of orange of it is red indeed? Again, all Pinbot I've seen before are orange and yellow and I don't think it is because they were faded.
Thanks!

Also possible that the paint color may have varied slightly from batch to batch. Also, there are at least two versions of the cabinet artwork, one has the zigzaggy lines not touching the upside down "V" at the bottom of the front, another has them all connected; it's possible that the cabs came from different sources using different paint.

#242 7 years ago

That's interesting, what do you guys have? And what type of red you have?

#243 7 years ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

I thought the same thing but red is the correct color...when I removed the start button it was red underneath...

What do you mean remove the start button? It is not hiding any part of the cab as far as I know, it's small and hollow.

#244 7 years ago
Quoted from Plumonium:

What do you mean remove the start button? It is not hiding any part of the cab as far as I know, it's small and hollow.

See the red paint in the start button hole...when the start button goes back in it covers a portion of it and keeps it from fading...
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#245 7 years ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

I thought the same thing but red is the correct color...when I removed the start button it was red underneath...

Did you stack them like that when you cleared them?

#246 7 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Did you stack them like that when you cleared them?

No...just stored that way

#248 7 years ago

what is the proper grit to use between clear coats?

#249 7 years ago

Looks really good so far. I always use 800 grit. Be careful on the corners. Then a scotchbrite pad on any shiny spots that are left.

#250 7 years ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

what is the proper grit to use between clear coats?

I will be interested to hear what others say as well. Here are my 3 options.

1. If I spray 2 or 3 coats in a single day, no sanding is required between coats. The general rule is 24 hours. Good result for a cabinet. A light colorsanding starting at 600 up to 2000 and then buffing.

2. If I am spraying additional coats more than 24 hours without color sanding, I use a red scotchbrite. Then I come back with color sanding and buffing.

3. If I am going for show quality, I apply 2-3 coats. Then I colorsand flat with 400-600. It takes way to long to sand with anything else for an intermediate sanding. Apply 2-3 more coats and sand flat starting with 600-2000 and buff and sand with 2000 and buff and sand until every scratch is gone or I give up.

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