(Topic ID: 150874)

DONE DONE AND DONE ***first attempt at cabinet restoration(pinbot).


By cosmokramer

3 years ago



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  • 339 posts
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  • Latest reply 2 years ago by HypnoRaygun
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There are 339 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 7.
13
#1 3 years ago

I have been reading a lot of restoration threads and thought it would be fun to give it a try. Since I have zero artistic ability, a playfield is out of the question but a cabinet restoration seems do able for me (even though I have no painting experience what so ever). I bought a pinbot last week with a really nice backglass and a pretty good playfield with just minimal wear at eyes (more on that later) but the cabinet is in rough shape so I thought this would be a perfect candidate.
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this game works 100% so my focus is just the cab
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removed backglass and packed up for safe keeping
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#2 3 years ago

now I wanted to remove the playfield but wasn't sure what to do with it. I couldn't just set it down for fear of breaking something and wanted the ability to strip the playfield to clean it, install new rubbers etc. so I fabricated some legs that used existing fasteners on playfield
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#3 3 years ago

Great, want to see how it goes, will follow.

#4 3 years ago

Great job Scott, those playfield legs look exactly like the ones I have for my garage door.....lol
That is one lucky Pin-bot getting a makeover

#5 3 years ago

Hey this looks like my Pinbot!! Please give full detail of everything you do. Those PF legs are nice but if you could build them, you could probably build a rotisserie.

#6 3 years ago

spent a few hours tearing it down, labeling harness connections and mapping out the ground braid...
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found some damage in this corner. I will replace the corner cleat, separate the corner and fill it with glue, then secure with ratchet strap overnight...
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didn't want the switch stacks to come apart so I backed screws out enough to slide a zip tie behind it to secure it before removal...
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We are done for the night, Ashley is wiped out from all the excitement....
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Tomorrow I should be able to finish the teardown and get the cab pieces to my shop to begin sanding and repair..

#7 3 years ago

Should the coin door and visible carraige bolt heads be sprayed with the same black paint as the cab base paint or is it a different paint?

Also, I am planning on spraying cab semi gloss black, using krylon rattle cans for yellow and red, then shooting with 2 part automotive clear... any problem with that combination?

20160131_145819_(resized).jpg

#8 3 years ago

Personally, I'd paint the coin door in a gloss.

#9 3 years ago
Quoted from chrisjens2:

those playfield legs look exactly like the ones I have for my garage

Quoted from arcademojo:

Hey this looks like my Pinbot!! Please give full detail of everything you do. Those PF legs are nice but if you could build them, you could probably build a rotisserie.

yes, I will fabricate a rotisserie soon, I just don't need it yet.

#10 3 years ago

This looks interesting. I don't have the nads to try this yet. My pinbot and bride could both benefit from a cab redo. I'll just watch for now. Keep at it.

#11 3 years ago

Using what I learned in vids guide to side rail removal they came off easily
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the corners are worse than I thought...3 out of 4 are compromised, and I may have to replace the back panel but should be an easy fix
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both pieces ready to go to the shop for the next step...
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I have a friend who also has a pinbot but his is missing the topper...using mine as a template I am going to try to replicate one... It wont be an exact match but it will be close, it will work, and will be better than nothing...I will probably start a separate thread for that

#12 3 years ago

I think you should definitely go with that last picture for the cabinet color. Nice match.

#13 3 years ago

I'll be following this, I'll be doing this to my BOP when the inside of my garage/shop is done. Make sure you put the HD cab braces on.

#14 3 years ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

I think you should definitely go with that last picture for the cabinet color. Nice match.

Well, you changed your last picture, which cancelled my joke. Buzzkill...

#15 3 years ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

Well, you changed your last picture, which cancelled my joke. Buzzkill...

your quick...I edited it instantly...then tried to figure out what you were saying when I looked back at my last picture

#16 3 years ago

Great Bryan Kelley vid on coin doors.

#17 3 years ago

The above is a great video but it's so freakin hard! First I went to every store (Michael's, Jo-Ann, Hobby Lobby, Home Depot, Lowe's, Menards, Wal-Mart, Pep Boys) and couldn't find the paint he was talking about. Plus the spritzing is extremely difficult to do, and very easy to mess up.

I do all my arcade coin doors/bolts with a metal primer, sand, satin, sand, satin. I personally love the finish. Try it out on some spare bolts and see what you like.

As for the back panel, check this thread - https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cabinet-wood-repair

#18 3 years ago
Quoted from Patofnaud:

Great Bryan Kelley vid on coin doors.
ยป YouTube video

Quoted from dudah:

The above is a great video but it's so freakin hard! First I went to every store (Michael's, Jo-Ann, Hobby Lobby, Home Depot, Lowe's, Menards, Wal-Mart, Pep Boys) and couldn't find the paint he was talking about. Plus the spritzing is extremely difficult.
I do all my arcade coin doors/bolts with a metal primer, sand, satin, sand, satin. I personally love the finish. Try it out on some spare bolts and see what you like.
As for the back panel, check this thread - https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cabinet-wood-repair

thanks for the links and tips

#19 3 years ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

Should the coin door and visible carraige bolt heads be sprayed with the same black paint as the cab base paint or is it a different paint?
Also, I am planning on spraying cab semi gloss black, using krylon rattle cans for yellow and red, then shooting with 2 part automotive clear... any problem with that combination?

20160131_145819_(resized).jpg

If you have the equipment and ability to spray 2PAC I would go with urethane auto paints for the base and primer coats as well.

Rattle cans take way too long to completely dry by comparison.

#20 3 years ago
Quoted from metahugh:

If you have the equipment and ability to spray 2PAC I would go with urethane auto paints for the base and primer coats as well.
Rattle cans take way too long to completely dry by comparison.

I will be using the rattle cans for yellow and red only, I have the equipment to spray 2pac I guess we will find out if I have the skills.

#21 3 years ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

I will be using the rattle cans for yellow and red only, I have the equipment to spray 2pac I guess we will find out if I have the skills.

You never know until you try!

#22 3 years ago

I believe this to be lead based paint so I opted for a chemical stripper instead of sanding all the paint off. Picked up this stuff at home depot for about 8 or 9 bucks a can (found out you need 2 cans for 1 cabinet.)
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the first attempt I did not put it on thick enough and met with limited success...
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second try was better...
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but finally found out you really have to put in on thick for it to burn through the paint...then it was easy...
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I ended up finishing the can of stripper and have half the head and half of the cab paint free, It will probably be a few days until I can get the time to finish the rest of the paint removal then on to sanding and filler.

#23 3 years ago

Not sure if you've seen these. But they are super great quality.

http://pinballpimpstencils.com/?page_id=492

And I'll also add....for the geat quality, I feel they are a very fair price.

#24 3 years ago
Quoted from rottenrobert1313:

Not sure if you've seen these. But they are super great quality.
http://pinballpimpstencils.com/?page_id=492
And I'll also add....for the geat quality, I feel they are a very fair price.

yes, I saw an Evil Knieval painted using those and it looked great, I will be using those.

I finished stripping all the paint off cab and head, taking it to the shop tomorrow.
I also wanted to add I went to home depot to get more stripper and used this instead of what is pictured in the thread earlier, It is from the same company but worked much better, the paint just slid off... one gallon was $22 and will do 2 cabs
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#25 3 years ago
Quoted from rottenrobert1313:

Not sure if you've seen these. But they are super great quality.
http://pinballpimpstencils.com/?page_id=492
And I'll also add....for the geat quality, I feel they are a very fair price.

I just used these stencils on my Pinbot. It's the 5th cabinet I've restored. By far the best stencil set I've used to date.

#26 3 years ago

I have had quite a few people ask me to be more detailed with how long each step takes and how much this project costs. I will try to include this information along the way. Keep in mind as far as hours go, I am not the fastest worker but I work steady with few if any breaks. Also dollar amounts given will be for material for this job only (for example I bought a 4x8 sheet of 23/32 plywood for cab repairs for $24 but only used half the sheet so cost for this job is $12...I will use other half of plywood for next project). I have all the tools needed for the wood work and all the gear to spray the paint so factor in your own costs if you have to rent or buy tools.
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So far the first step was teardown, bagging, and labeling parts...approx. 6 hours...$0 spent

Chemical strip paint, with prep and clean-up...approx. 3 hours (however if I had used the stronger stripper in the first place time would have been 1.5 hours). $15 spent

Purchased heavy duty leg plates/cab braces (thanks MustangPaul) $20 spent

Not too much to report on the project at this point (I got side tracked with another quick project https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/polishing-a-turd#post-2961504 ). I finished the chemical strip and brought the cab and head to my dads woodworking shop for the sanding, repair, and filler. I started with a palm sander and 60 grit to start to clean up the wood. Upon further inspection I changed the plan to include replacing both the front and back panels of cab due to soft corners...
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Popped this blister near where the head mounts, I will fix it with bondo...
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Sides lookin good, next step is to cut new front and back panels...
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#27 3 years ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

Purchased heavy duty leg plates/cab braces (thanks MustangPaul) $20 spent

It's coming along real good. When I put those HD brace's in HS I hogged out the puny #6 screw holes and put big honkin #12s in. When I rebuild I go REAL HD.

#28 3 years ago

Nice work. I have a pinbot that I hope to someday repaint the cabinet on.

#29 3 years ago

Wow must make it a little easier to sand with a view like that!

#30 3 years ago

Head ready for minor repairs...

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1 week later
#31 3 years ago

Got a chance to do a little work today, been busy lately so have not had time to get to the shop. I removed the back panel of the cabinet to get ready to manufacture a replacement. It came out fairly easy with no surprises...
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I went around the entire inside and outside of cab with palm sander and 60 grit, it did a great job cleaning the inside of the cabinet...
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It looks like the front panel will be salvageable after all but this corner needs some work...
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I cleaned the joint and cut a new corner cleat...then separated the corner to fill with glue...
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After applying the glue I clamped it and hit it with some staples, now will let it sit and dry...
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I was able to bondo the head and hit it with some 100 grit, its looking good and will be ready for primer as soon as I sand up to 220. The next chance I get to work on it I should be able to cut and install the back panel, bondo the cab and sand up to 220...then it will be time for primer...

#32 3 years ago

Makin some good progress. If your so inclined while your workin on the cab you might want to think about replacing the start button with an Angle Eye lit metal start button. I put them on 3 of my games and they really look cool. They are 12v but still light up nice with 6.3v from the coin door bulbs. You need a 22mm diameter one and can get them on ebay.

#33 3 years ago

I just ran across this thread and wanted to say it looks like you are doing a great job! I am about to do the same thing to my PinBot cabinet except I have to wait for warmer weather. I am finishing up my CPR play field swap while it's cold out then painting my cabinet and head in the Spring. Lucky for me my cabinet is not in as bad of shape as yours.

I am curious as to how this is going to turn out and the exact yellow and orange colors you will be using for the stencils.

Good luck.

#34 3 years ago
Quoted from MarchAFB:

I just ran across this thread and wanted to say it looks like you are doing a great job! I am about to do the same thing to my PinBot cabinet except I have to wait for warmer weather. I am finishing up my CPR play field swap while it's cold out then painting my cabinet and head in the Spring. Lucky for me my cabinet is not in as bad of shape as yours.
I am curious as to how this is going to turn out and the exact yellow and orange colors you will be using for the stencils.
Good luck.

thanks...I will document all paints used

Quoted from MustangPaul:

Makin some good progress. If your so inclined while your workin on the cab you might want to think about replacing the start button with an Angle Eye lit metal start button. I put them on 3 of my games and they really look cool. They are 12v but still light up nice with 6.3v from the coin door bulbs. You need a 22mm diameter one and can get them on ebay.

damn those are slick...thanks...even if I don't use them on this build I think they would look cool in some of my more modern games
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#35 3 years ago

Here is what I plan on using for this project, please let me know if some of this is incorrect. A lot of people have a lot of opinions on what is the best type of products to use, I personally don't have a clue. I told the guy at the automotive paint supply house what I was doing and this is what he recommended (see photo). This crap is expensive, luckily for me a few weeks ago a customer of mine (who also happens to own the paint store) needed some minor work done at one of his rental properties so I traded a bit of labor for the supplies. Once the painting is done I will calculate the cost based again on material used, but to give you an idea what you see in the photo was $150 but some of the products will do several machines.
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#36 3 years ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

damn those are slick...thanks...even if I don't use them on this build I think they would look cool in some of my more modern games

It's a great mod, learned about them from beatmaster.

#37 3 years ago

So you are going to do the cabinet in urethane? Are you doing it in a one step, or bc/cc? I'm curious to see how this comes out because my Pinbot is a nice HUO machine that unfortunately sat in a sunroom for years. There is hardly a red left on it.

#38 3 years ago

This was the front corner that was loose, I glued it back a few days ago. I used filler to repair the minor damage where the old cleat was removed...
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then glued and stapled in new cleat...
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continued doing fill...
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cut, beveled, and notched new back panel...traced cutouts for vents and power cord...
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cut openings, cleaned them up with a drum sander...
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then glued and stapled into place...lookin good
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one more round of filler and sanding and it primer time

#39 3 years ago
Quoted from uncivil_engineer:

So you are going to do the cabinet in urethane? Are you doing it in a one step, or bc/cc? I'm curious to see how this comes out because my Pinbot is a nice HUO machine that unfortunately sat in a sunroom for years. There is hardly a red left on it.

I will be doing a few coats of sealer/primer with sanding in between, then a few base coats of black (also sanded in between). Stencil and spray yellow and red, wet sand then 2pac automotive clear coat.

#40 3 years ago

Really a beautiful job, buddy! I was thinking of making my own cabinet and thought I'd need a CNC cutter to do it, but you just showed me that's not necessary. Thanks!

#42 3 years ago

in the meantime I am beginning to work on the coin door, its pretty ugly...
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stripped it down and bagged all parts...
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looks like someone did a poor paint job at some time in the past...
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so now there are these 3 holes in the coin door from some sort of security device I guess...what can I do about these, if I just fill with bondo I'm sure it will just crack out...can I fill these another way or do I need to use carriage bolts to hide them?
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#43 3 years ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

...can I fill these another way

A welder.

#44 3 years ago

ha..my welding skills suck, I am afraid I might burn a bigger hole...just by coincidence I have a guy who wants to trade me a welder for some garage door repair this Saturday...I guess its time to practice...this is what Im getting....

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#45 3 years ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

this is what Im getting....

Does it have a argon/Co2 tank and regulator?

#46 3 years ago

I really enjoy these restoration threads with details and good pics. Thanks for doing this, the progress and results are looking great!

#47 3 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Does it have a argon/Co2 tank and regulator?

supposedly he says it has everything needed to start welding, I am going to look at it tomorrow so I can see if it is a deal I want to make...I will find out exactly what he has to offer

If it doesn't work out I guess I could take it to a local shop to get it welded, I can grind and smooth it myself.

#48 3 years ago

I'd fill those holes with 5min epoxy. Just put masking tape on the underside, fill it, peel off tape once cured. Maybe a little bondo to smooth it out.

#49 3 years ago

Coin doors are cast pot metal aren't they or cast aluminum? You may melt bigger holes if you try welding them.

#50 3 years ago
Quoted from polyacanthus:

I'd fill those holes with 5min epoxy. Just put masking tape on the underside, fill it, peel off tape once cured. Maybe a little bondo to smooth it out.

Yeah, sand blast the door, epoxy a piece of metal behind the holes then fill the front with epoxy and sand smooth.

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