Louisville, KY
I believe the line cord was poorly soldered on so now it's loose... should I reheat? Is the green line cord supposed to be soldered on tight? Thanks!
(Topic ID: 179073)
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UPDATE: it's definitely a switch problem. Took the cover off the switch on the inside and this wire was disconnected. What should I do? Thanks!
Quoted from setzkor:I'm not sure what I'm looking at... Which wire is disconnected? One inside the switch?
The wire that my finger is on, on the left. Does it need to be soldered on??
Quoted from setzkor:I'm not sure what I'm looking at... Which wire is disconnected? One inside the switch?
Yeah! It's on the cabinet switch
Seconded... Likely to that contact your finger is next to. You'll probably see some solder left on it where it is supposed to go...
When you add solder to a wire it is not as flexible as a unsoldered stranded wire. So the point next to the solder can break over time. This is the first time this needed to be resoldered in 35 years, do a good job soldering and it will last another 35 years.
Quoted from GRUMPY:When you add solder to a wire it is not as flexible as a unsoldered stranded wire. So the point next to the solder can break over time. This is the first time this needed to be resoldered in 35 years, do a good job soldering and it will last another 35 years.
Great, thanks man! When I apply solder, should I apply it to the L shaped metal piece on the wire and then heat it to the contact? I just want to do this right
Gotta replace the switch, I found that the solder job was fine, the prong from the switch came off. Any idea where I could get one?
First tin the wire with solder then hold the wire where you want it and heat with the iron and add solder as needed. P/S it takes 3 hands so have fun and don't burn yourself.
ebay.com link: CARLING TECHNOLOGIES TOGGLE SWITCH 125 250 vac 15 10 amp 3 4 HP BRAND NEW
Something like this will work.
Quoted from GRUMPY:ebay.com link » Carling Technologies Toggle Switch 125 250 Vac 15 10 Amp 3 4 Hp Brand New
Something like this will work.
Thanks so much! I really appreciate it
1 week later
About to order the switch. The old switch says 10A. 120 V.A.C-L, is this ok? The one GRUMPY listed is 125 V.A.C. Just making sure!
Quoted from GRUMPY:The switch
I listed is for 15 amps at 120 volts. Better than the switch it came with.
Great! Thanks!
When the switch comes, how would I go about removing the old switch? There seems to be a hexagonal piece under the switch, should I unscrew that? I haven't got to go up and try things yet but I just wanted to be sure.
First things first UNPLUG THE CORD FROM THE WALL. Start by cutting off the other wire. There should be a square metal plate with 4 screws holding it in place. Remove the 4 screws. Remove the plate with the switch and turn it over, there will be a hex nut or a knurled nut holding the switch in place. Remove this nut and the switch will come out of the hole of the plate. I would then solder on the wires first to the switch then install the switch to the plate and lastly screw the plate back in place. DO NOT FORGET TO PUT HEAT SHRINK ON EACH WIRE COVERING ALL EXPOSED METAL. This will save you and others from a nasty shock one day. This an easy fix and will give some good soldering experience, have fun.
Quoted from GRUMPY:First things first UNPLUG THE CORD FROM THE WALL. Start by cutting off the other wire. There should be a square metal plate with 4 screws holding it in place. Remove the 4 screws. Remove the plate with the switch and turn it over, there will be a hex nut or a knurled nut holding the switch in place. Remove this nut and the switch will come out of the hole of the plate. I would then solder on the wires first to the switch then install the switch to the plate and lastly screw the plate back in place. DO NOT FORGET TO PUT HEAT SHRINK ON EACH WIRE COVERING ALL EXPOSED METAL. This will save you and others from a nasty shock one day. This an easy fix and will give some good soldering experience, have fun.
Great! I'll give it a shot! Thanks
Quoted from GRUMPY:First things first UNPLUG THE CORD FROM THE WALL. Start by cutting off the other wire. There should be a square metal plate with 4 screws holding it in place. Remove the 4 screws. Remove the plate with the switch and turn it over, there will be a hex nut or a knurled nut holding the switch in place. Remove this nut and the switch will come out of the hole of the plate. I would then solder on the wires first to the switch then install the switch to the plate and lastly screw the plate back in place. DO NOT FORGET TO PUT HEAT SHRINK ON EACH WIRE COVERING ALL EXPOSED METAL. This will save you and others from a nasty shock one day. This an easy fix and will give some good soldering experience, have fun.
Hey, man what you mean by "Cutting off the other wire"?
The pic you posted shows the switch with one wire attached and the other broken off. So I meant for you to cut off the remaining wire so the plate and switch could be removed from the cabinet.
Quoted from GRUMPY:The pic you posted shows the switch with one wire attached and the other broken off. So I meant for you to cut off the remaining wire so the plate and switch could be removed from the cabinet.
Gotcha! Thanks again, man
I have a question regarding the tubing on the wires connecting to the switch. In the picture of the switch, you can see the clear tubing. When I solder the new switch on, should I use that tubing and just cover up solder joints with it? Will that prevent short, shocks, etc? Thanks!
Quoted from Pinball-DOOD:should I use that tubing and just cover up solder joints with it?
You can if it will slide over the new switch connector.
Quoted from Pinball-DOOD:Will that prevent short, shocks, etc?
Yes it will.
When I get the switch, does anyone know what wire goes on each lug? Do I need to apply heat to the shrink tubing or do I just need to cover the lug with the tubing after I solder? Thanks!
Quoted from Pinball-DOOD:does anyone know what wire goes on each lug
Doesn't matter.
Quoted from Pinball-DOOD:Do I need to apply heat to the shrink tubing
If you reuse the old clear tubing no heat just slide the down the wire. New shrink tubing, slide in place then heat to shrink.
Quoted from GRUMPY:Doesn't matter.
If you reuse the old clear tubing no heat just slide the down the wire. New shrink tubing, slide in place then heat to shrink.
Awesome! Thanks a ton. I can't wait to get her up and running!
GRUMPY which lugs do I solder the wires on?... there are 4 now. Thanks!
Not familiar with that particular switch...I would assume you can pick one on the back and the one in the middle on that side. But I also know what happens when you assume (ass out of you and me)... Especially with electricity. If you have a multimeter, measure resistance between two like that, then throw the switch and remeasure. If it goes from 0 ohms to infinite, solder away. If not try two more until you find the right pair.
Quoted from setzkor:Not familiar with that particular switch...I would assume you can pick one on the back and the one in the middle on that side. But I also know what happens when you assume (ass out of you and me)... Especially with electricity. If you have a multimeter, measure resistance between two like that, then throw the switch and remeasure. If it goes from 0 ohms to infinite, solder away. If not try two more until you find the right pair.
Gotcha! Thanks, man. I'll wait until the other guy responds because he seemed to know about the switch. I'll try what you said too!
To add...I'm assuming you have this kind of switch...
http://www.learningaboutelectronics.com/Articles/Double-pole-single-throw-switch-DPST
The trick is to find which pairs are together...front/middle, or front/front and middle/middle
Quoted from setzkor:To add...I'm assuming you have this kind of switch...
http://www.learningaboutelectronics.com/Articles/Double-pole-single-throw-switch-DPST
The trick is to find which pairs are together...front/middle, or front/front and middle/middle
Sounds good! I'll check it with a meter
Turns out that when I put the leads on both terminals to the far left (or far right) and throw the switch, I get continuity! Should I solder them like that?
Quoted from setzkor:If you put the switch off does the resistance read high between those two?
This is a dumb question but how would I measure resistance?haha
It reads 1 in the continuity setting when the switch is flipped off. I believe that would signify high resistance right?
Quoted from GRUMPY:The spot you have your meter leads on are fine to put the wires on.
Awesome! I'll try it. So after I solder, I'll just install the switch, cover the solder job with the tubing and cover the whole thing with the cover right?
This is how I suggest to wire the switch.
Connect both end pins together with a link and connect both middle pins together with another link. This gives you double the switching contact for better continuity.
Make sure you finish up by cover it all with something (tape/ heatshrink tubing) to prevent fingers touching any of the connections!
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