(Topic ID: 117461)

Firepower tech repair and restore


By mtmellum

5 years ago



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  • 44 posts
  • 10 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by Schwaggs
  • Topic is favorited by 15 Pinsiders

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#1 5 years ago

Hi all, big newbie with the pinball bug bites! I've purchased a firepower and are doing the repair/restore over winter up here in saskatchewan, Canada.

I'll post my progress and my questions for the gurus as I go.

I'm working through Vids guide to Williams systems and am progressing the mpu repair this week. Driver board has been updated, new 40 pin female installed, all connectors re flowed, light matrix upgraded and jumpered. Next week it's power supply upgrade, then onto solenoid challenges and playfield mechanicals, followed by full clean etc.

This weeks question is what are the extra EPROMs installed here? Also what does the Orange sticker on the board mean?

Any help greatly appreciated.

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#2 5 years ago

Ok, have been given an explanation & solution for the eprom rom q above, thanks to johnwartjr! Rep to you sir!

#3 5 years ago

Just to share the information here for everyone, this is from the readme of the L-2 Firepower ROMs

Firepower was unique in that it made use of the both the "PROM"
sockets and the "Game ROM" socket for holding game software.
Using both sets of sockets allowed Firepower to have an extra
1.5K bytes of game program.

Note that the original configuration of chips requires that MPU board
jumper J4 be installed and J3 be removed. There are orange labels in
the cabinet and on the board noting this fact, but we state it again
in case those labels have disappeared over the years.

Replacing the ROM and PROMs for Firepower is difficult because the
bipolar PROMs are hard to find, and a device programmer capable of
burning them is even harder to find.

If the original chips are missing or damaged, the better solution is
to use the "FPCOMBO" ROM data programmed into a 2732, and make the
board modifications outlined below.

SYSTEM 6 MPU BOARD MODIFICATION FOR USING "FPCOMBO" GAME ROM
------------------------------------------------------------
*********************************************************************
* *
* !!!!!! THE USUAL BIG DISCLAIMER SECTION!!!!!! *
* *
* If you don't know how to work on circuit boards, don't even *
* think of doing this modification. If you've been meaning to *
* learn how to work on circuit boards, don't even think of doing *
* this modification as your first project. Get someone else who *
* is already skilled at circuit board work to do it for you. If *
* you are concerned about maintaining 100% originality in every *
* way on your machine, don't perform this modification. While it *
* has been designed to be easy to "undo" should the need ever *
* arise, it will permanently alter your circuit board where one *
* trace is cut. A circuit board modified in the described way *
* will no longer work in any other games unless the modifications *
* are undone. This is meant to provide a way to keep a Firepower *
* running, where the MPU board is expected to stay in a Firepower *
* forever more. *
* *
* While every effort has been taken to ensure the accuracy and *
* and viability of the Firepower combo ROM and the circuit board *
* modifications described below, this solution is provided with *
* no warranty nor support from Williams Electronics Games, Inc. *
* *
* Your use of this information is at your own risk, and is *
* provided solely as a courtesy to enable you to continue enjoying *
* your Firepower for years to come. *
* *
*********************************************************************

1. Remove any Game ROMs (IC14, IC21, IC22, IC26) from their sockets.

2. Remove any jumpers at J3 or J4 (to the right of IC15, a 74LS139).

3. On the bottom of the board, at IC14 pin 21, cut a notch in the
heavy circuit trace on both sides of the pin. Removing some of
the existing solder on the trace may help. The idea is to get
rid of the +5V connection to the pin, while still leaving an intact
solder pad at the pin itself.

4. On the back of the board, run a small jumper wire from IC14 pin 21
to IC30 pin 14. IC30 is generally not installed; it is the 16-pin
chip outline just to the right of IC14 and just above the interboard
connector. Solder the wire through the hole at pin 14 of the empty
IC30 location, and to pin 21 of IC14, making sure not to short it to
the other side of the trace you cut at IC14. This brings A11 to IC14.

5. On the back of the board, install a 4.7K ohm, 1/4 Watt resistor
between pins 20 and 24 of IC14. With the resistor leads bent at
90 degrees at a comfortable distance from the body of the resistor,
they should line up at just the right spacing to solder one lead
to each of those pins. Again, make sure not to short the pin 20
connection to the jumper wire at pin 21, or the cut trace edges
around pin 21. This provides a pullup for the active-low chip
select.

6. Install two small-signal diodes (example part numbers are 1N914
and 1N4148; the same sort of diode used in the switch matrix)
at locations J3 and J4. The cathode (banded) end should be towards
the TOP of the board for both diodes. This allows either of the
two Game ROM address ranges to drive the active-low chip select
at IC14.

7. Program a 2732 with the "FPCOMBO" ROM data and install at IC14. If
the game doesn't already have working Green-label ROMs at IC17
and IC20 you should of course install those too.

#4 5 years ago

1546201_10204528047296265_3238320304716777901_n.jpg

I like to do the firepower IC14 mod on the component side.

#5 5 years ago

I saw one guy recently who didn't actually cut the traces on IC14, and just bent the leg at pin 21 up and ran a jumper wire from the leg over to the pad.

Personally, I don't find it's difficult to back the cut traces out with a little bit of a solder bridge. But, odds are, once someone puts one of these boards in a Firepower, it's gonna be there for life anyways.

#6 5 years ago

I really need to get the money together for another run of adapters

-Hans

#7 5 years ago

Those adapters do sound slick... but for those of us who enjoy working on the boards...

#8 5 years ago

Thanks to all so far., particularly johnwartjr.

I'm making this pin the one I learn on before tackling more complex restorations. So happy to try different things to get a good solid home use pin.

Plan with the boards is to 1. Install new sockets, reinstall current roms and do Vids upgrades to board driver and power supply. Thank you sir! (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-bulletproofing-williams-system-6)

If that's a dud due to rom age, then it's plan B. Modify cpu as per above and install new combo prom.

If for any Reason, that's a failure,plan C I'm financing Hans! Finally plan D, rottendog combo driver cpu.

Photos of original condition and progress to follow!

#9 5 years ago

Well, I hope plan A works for you, there's nothing more satisfying than fixing it yourself! If the game is at least partially working, often times new sockets, roms and interconnect will fix things up nicely.

There are plenty of great mentors with buckets of experience with these boards on pinside, if you have a problem that stumps us, I'll be surprised.

#10 5 years ago

Damn! :wall:Tonight started on plan A. Started to remove the rom from PROM3/IC 26, it was a little tight at first, so I applied a little wiggle to the chip. It let go in a rush and in the lift, bent pins at position 12 and 13. When I attempted to straighten them, pin 13 broke off very neatly flush against the body of the chip.

So advice is now required! Do I get a prom 3 replacement and stick w plan A or do I move to plan B and install a combo rom and mod the board as described in johnwartjr's post #3?

Also, One part of plan A/B missing is the expert option. I failed to mention that prior to giving up and moving to plan C/D Id like to have one of the board repair experts see if they can get the board functioning. Any suggestions for western Canada based board experts? If not canada then who's the go to person/expert who'd be willing to handle the hassle of international shipping and cross border payments to Canada?

On a positive note, I now have a chip to use for SIP install alignment, if I decide to go that route! I'm reconsidering SIP at the moment given the view that twin leaf sockets seem to be the preferred socket of quite a few. Any thoughts on SIP vs twin leaf?

#11 5 years ago

You likely won't find a PROM3 unless someone has a good used one laying around. The actual chips are almost as difficult to find as a programmer that can program them - obsolete.

If you can't find a Canadian resource, I just did a set of Firepower boards for a customer this week.

I already shared my opinion of machined sockets / socket strips vs twin leaf - I'm a fan of the twin leaf personally. I'd say go with whatever choice you're most comfortable with.

1 week later
#12 5 years ago

Even the cheap chinese dual leaf sockets hold up way better than the machine pin sockets in terms of insertion cycles. In reality you won't be (or id hope so) swapping chips in and out often, so a few cycles before they wear out is okay, but not obviously not the best. The dual wipe sockets are typically much cheaper too.

The proper way to rework a firepower MPU is to do the 2732 COMBO ROM at IC14. It uses less obsolete ROMs (need just one 2732) and uses 3 ROMs overall instead of 6. If you are not comfortable changing sockets, cutting a trace, running a jumper and adding a resistor, send it to someone who is.

#13 5 years ago

Whatever you do, don't toss that Firepower PROM. Send it to me and I will solder the legs back on and send it back to you, no charge. Or if you decide to go combo ROM, I'll just put them in my backlog of Firepower parts.

#14 5 years ago
Quoted from johnwartjr:

Firepower, it's gonna be there for life.

shortened your quote for you

glad im not the only one using twin leaf sockets.. you realise the cool kids talk about us in hushed tones when we arent looking?

#15 5 years ago

I use twin leaf sockets too. I find they are easier to install these fragile chips than the machine pin sockets. I don't use cheap Chinese sockets but rather brand name sockets from reputable parts houses. Never a problem here....

#16 5 years ago

After breaking that pin on the eprom, I went the combo route. Installed twin wipe sockets from digikey, it's easier to buy from up here in Canada. I sourced my combo rom and new flipper roms from johnwartjrJr, great service and advice! I have run Leon's Test rom (also a johnwartjr supply) and It codes to a crappy chip at IC13, it's an AMI. Placed an order for a replacement with Ed at Great Plains electronics.

Schwaggs, PM sent! I've lost the leg. it did break off flush to the chip body. Put it in your stock of firepower parts and pay it forward. I love pinside for the sense of community and keeping pins alive!

#17 5 years ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Whatever you do, don't toss that Firepower PROM. Send it to me and I will solder the legs back on and send it back to you, no charge. Or if you decide to go combo ROM, I'll just put them in my backlog of Firepower parts.

I have thrown away so many of these PROMs... Of all the WMS sys 6 MPUs i do, firepower is by far the most common game rework a mpu for.

In fact i just reworked a FP mpu/driver this weekend. I could probably dig the PROMs out of the trash. I figured no one used these things anymore because the firepower combo rom setup is more practical.

#18 5 years ago
Quoted from barakandl:

I have thrown away so many of these PROMs... Of all the WMS sys 6 MPUs i do, firepower is by far the most common game rework a mpu for.
In fact i just reworked a FP mpu/driver this weekend. I could probably dig the PROMs out of the trash. I figured no one used these things anymore because the firepower combo rom setup is more practical.

A bit of a diversion. On the boards that you've modified to combo rom, have you ever installed a NVRAM adapter for the 5101 chip? And if I've already done a remote battery holder mod do I remove that as well when I install the NVRAM replacement?

#19 5 years ago

You'd remove the batteries if you did nvram, correct.

I typically do a cr2032 lithium coin cell

#20 5 years ago

Quick update and a question.

update. Have upgraded the power supply except for the 100v +/- transformers. They seem to be ok. Installed Trifurcon Connectors and soldering in new pns , replacing the IDCs on all board connectors. General cleanup of the playfield and a lot more reading. Testing of all installs to check my soldering skills.

An interesting thing I've got the question on. In fault finding why I had backbox GI but no playfield GI, I discovered that the back box and the cabinet are different serial numbers. Part of a stable of firepowers maybe? Eventually found that every GI had blown. I know I have a faulty coil somewhere (testing the coils and diodes this weekend to track down the faulty coil) but would this cause all the playfield GIs to blow? What else would do that? Anything I should be careful about when re-nstalling the reworked boards?

I'm also going to check all the solenoid drivers transistors on the driver board and might just upgrade them anyway.

Appreciate the advice so far.

#21 5 years ago

Coils are not related to GI. Completely different circuit in the machine. Maybe you could have shorted coil voltage to the GI circuit somewhere and blown out all the bulbs, but that's pretty unlikely.

It's possible on a neglected game that all the GI could be burned out, as bulbs age, they start to discolor and eventually silver and eventually burn out - the resistance goes up as they wear out.

Go through all the connectors and fuses - potentially you've got a connector problem on the playfield GI.

I wouldn't replace a transistor on the driver board unless it has failed.

#22 5 years ago

Update on the GI lamps. Voltage was good on the circuit. So checked each lamp and they were all blown. So replaced them w 44s and we now have GI lamps!

Boards are progressing and I have checked each transistor on the driver board, no issues except the below piece.

In checking all the coils on my firepower as part of fault finding solenoid fuse constant blowing, I found the left flipper coil reading just 1.0 ohm with the diode disconnected. (The right flipper coil reads 15.8ohms). The flipper diode reads .572 which is less than .6. Does this mean the coil is no good?

The driver board flipper control 2N4401 transistor (Q13) reads .646 on the left leg and .637 on the right leg, is this toasted too (it's over.6)? Should I replace the 1N4001 diode (D1) on the driver board flipper control when I do the transistor?

And lastly, When I look at the diodes on both of the flipper coils, the banded end is towards the return wire of the coil. The rest of the general coils are band to the power side. Is this correct? Clays guides says that banded end of the diode should be to the power side of the coil.

It looks like somebody has done a repair job on the flipper coils previously (solder job appears very different to others and flux present). I have a flipper coil on its way from pinball life (along with a bunch of other stuff).

Any advice greatly appreciated!

#23 5 years ago

It sounds like your flipper coil is bad but I doubt the flipper diode is bad. The .6 is a guideline and .572 is close enough. A bad diode will read 0 or infinite, not something so close to .6. That being said, your new coil will come with a new diode anyway...

On the flipper transistor, you mention that the solenoid fuse constantly blows, does the flipper fuse blow? Do the flippers work when you start a game? The flipper circuit on FP is quite simple. Q13 simply turns the relay on and off providing power to the flipper coils. If power is getting to the flippers when a game is started, there is nothing wrong with Q13 or D1. You didn't mention that you are having troubles with the flippers in your post so I'm not sure why you are suspecting these parts...

On the solenoid fuse, did you test all the solenoid transistors? Did you test the resistance of the PF solenoid coils? Check the electrolytic capacitors on the sling stitches and pop bumpers to see if they failed shorted (common) which would cause these coils to lock on when a game starts.

Does the solenoid fuse blow when you start a game or when you turn the game on?

#24 5 years ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

It sounds like your flipper coil is bad but I doubt the flipper diode is bad. The .6 is a guideline and .572 is close enough. A bad diode will read 0 or infinite, not something so close to .6. That being said, your new coil will come with a new diode anyway...
On the flipper transistor, you mention that the solenoid fuse constantly blows, does the flipper fuse blow? Do the flippers work when you start a game? The flipper circuit on FP is quite simple. Q13 simply turns the relay on and off providing power to the flipper coils. If power is getting to the flippers when a game is started, there is nothing wrong with Q13 or D1. You didn't mention that you are having troubles with the flippers in your post so I'm not sure why you are suspecting these parts...
On the solenoid fuse, did you test all the solenoid transistors? Did you test the resistance of the PF solenoid coils? Check the electrolytic capacitors on the sling stitches and pop bumpers to see if they failed shorted (common) which would cause these coils to lock on when a game starts.
Does the solenoid fuse blow when you start a game or when you turn the game on?

Thanks Schwaggs, I have checked all playfield coils and diodes and get good results there. I've not checked them separated, just following clays guide that says if the coil reads ok w diode connected, move on. All the solenoid transistors are within .4 to.6 so all good there. I've power and flipper function on right side only. Flipper fuse good. The readings on q13 is over.6 so hence my suspicion.

The solenoid fuse blows on power up, I've not yet got the boards reinstalled as I'm yet to do a NVRAM install and re-run leons test rom (after smoking my original due to upside down installation).

I've not checked sling or pop bumber caps, so will do that and see what they read. What readings on ohms should I be looking for or is simply test continuity?

Thanks

#25 5 years ago

On the pop and sling caps, if they read zero, they are shorted and should be replaced... No need to have the boards installed to test this...

If you are getting power on one flipper, you can stop looking at the transistor and the flipper relay as both flippers are powered by the same relay. You either have a coil problem, EOS switch problem, flipper switch problem or wiring problem on the suspect side. Try holding the flipper button on and manually moving the flipper up and see if it holds up. If it does, you may have an EOS or power coil problem. You can also try measuring the voltage across the flipper switch while in a game.

#26 5 years ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

On the pop and sling caps, if they read zero, they are shorted and should be replaced... No need to have the boards installed to test this...
If you are getting power on one flipper, you can stop looking at the transistor and the flipper relay as both flippers are powered by the same relay. You either have a coil problem, EOS switch problem, flipper switch problem or wiring problem on the suspect side. Try holding the flipper button on and manually moving the flipper up and see if it holds up. If it does, you may have an EOS or power coil problem. You can also try measuring the voltage across the flipper switch while in a game.

Working through under the playfield tonight and have separated the flipper issue and the solenoid issue. The left flipper coil is trashed so I have ordered the flipper upgrades as per Vids flipper rebuild guide. May as well do it all at once verses just replacing the coil. The diode was installed back to front on the left side as well.

The solenoid issue appears to be related to solenoid 15 flash lamps circuit. (All the other coils, caps and diodes test out ok). The circuit has a small board under the playfield with two resistors on it. One is blown and the other is burnt. The firepower schematic I have doesn't show what the values are so I can replace them. See the attached picture.
Two questions.

Would this cause F2 solenoid fuse to blow? (I think so but would like others opinions)

And can anybody tell me what to order to repair?

Thanks

image.jpg
#27 5 years ago

That burnt resistor is the warming resistor for the FIRE and POWER flasher bulbs in the hotdog inserts. It being burnt would not cause the solenoid fuse to blow but will cause your flasher not to work properly. However, if you are planning on using LED flashers, you should just remove it as it will prevent LED flashers from working properly.

If you wish to stick with regular #89 flashers, replace it with a 330 ohm 2 watt or bigger wattage. The smaller resistor is a 1 ohm, 1/2 watt. The 330 ohm resistor is commonly fried on Firepower machines unless someone before you replaced it with a larger wattage resistor (does not appear to be your case).

The circuit for the flashers is on page 25 of the Firepower schematics. Look for the 2 flasher bulbs on the center right of the page.

#28 5 years ago

Thanks Schwaggs!

That got me focussed, I will order the parts to repair. Based on your answer, I went back to clays guide which led me to the following.

Update. I've managed to get the CPU board running, diagnostics finally led me to a faulty 5101, so socketed and replaced. what a great feeling to see it go into attract mode!

The solenoid issues are now isolated to the special solenoid section. By turning on and removing the driver board 2J13 connector whilst leaving the 2J12 connected, my breaker fuse still tripped which tells me that it's driver board not playfield related. All the switches/caps/resistors are ok, (apart from needing a switch cleaning). Using test leads, I hooked up each pin on 2J12 one at a time and progressively. Pin 9 & 8 (left & right kicker) didn't trip the breaker but when I got to the pop bumpers, all sorts of weird things started. One wouldn't trip but eventually each did trip!

All the driver trans and pre-driver trans are in spec (or close enough) so I believe this means that my 7408's are wacky. IC6 reads high (around 1.22) on a lot of pins and on pin 3 & 4 is ol and continuity is present. IC7 on pin 13 reads .126, and IC8 & IC9 (7402's) also show a lot pin signals below .2

Should I just go ahead and replace IC6-9? With them suspect, does it automatically mean my IC5 PIA is whacked too? While the board is out and the iron is hot, should I just replace it anyways? Or should I do it progressively, that is IC6-9 first, then if I still have trouble, do IC5 then?

It's getting closer! Was very pumped yesterday to see the attract mode! Thanks to everybody so far!

#29 5 years ago

This last post got me to thinking. I have never seen the flashers in my hot dog inserts go off.
What triggers them?
I have regular 89 flashers installed and the large resistor in the photo above measures .41 in one direction and 0 in the other.
Both bulbs are good bulbs yet they never flash.
I went and played an entire game by hand but nothing will cause them to work.
All wiring looks good as well.

#30 5 years ago

They flash in small intervals during attract mode and go off when you get "Fire" and "Power" together. Not sure if they go off at other times without playing a game.

#31 5 years ago

In that case something is wrong with my flasher circuit.
What would you guys check out first?

#33 5 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

In that case something is wrong with my flasher circuit.
What would you guys check out first?

If the small resistor (1 ohm 1/2 watt) goes open there will be no flash. The large resistor (330 ohm 2 watt - replace it with a 5 watt) keeps a little voltage going to the bulbs to pre-heat the filaments helping the bulbs come up to full brightness faster & live longer. They are triggered by solenoid driver Q43.
If using LEDs the large resistor must be removed or they will stay lit all the time.

#34 5 years ago

Update. Decided to remove the board and replace the 7408's, 7402's and IC5 PIA. All socketed w twin leaf sockets for the future. This removed the special solenoid shorts! Didn't see if the PIA was faulty, had purchased a spare anyway so just decided to put it in. Happy with that.

This allowed me to run solenoid and lamp tests. All good except for the following two issues.

1. The lower jet bumper stayed on when triggered during the test. I suspect the cap, diode or resistor as the switch seems clear when it fires. I have full rebuild kits to do at some point. I will replace the components and clean the switches. Any other opinions/thoughts/suggestions?

2. The ball eject solenoid action wasn't strong enough to push a ball over the internal ramp. I vaguely remember a similar thread but I can't find it again. This is a bit more challenging. What could be the problem?

A third issue but not related to the diagnostics. The start switch doesn't do anything. I've added credits but can't start a game for some weird reason. Any ideas on what to do?

Tomorrow I will add some before and after board pictures and a short video of attract mode so you can see some of the work done and the results.

appreciate all the advice so far. Thanks! Seems to be very close now!

#35 5 years ago
Quoted from mtmellum:

1. The lower jet bumper stayed on when triggered during the test. I suspect the cap, diode or resistor as the switch seems clear when it fires. I have full rebuild kits to do at some point. I will replace the components and clean the switches. Any other opinions/thoughts/suggestions?

I had a similar problem with the LL pop locking on, double check your driver board transistors:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/firepower-project-begun#post-2244962

"it was a problem on the driver board. Had to change the tip122 and pre driver 2n4401. Even though TIP122 tested OK, it was bad. After changing those 2 parts, and adjusting the pop bumper switch stack, it worked again!"

#36 5 years ago

For item 1, check that the switch stack below the pop is setup like the others. One of the blade can get our of position and the energized coil can keep the switch closed. If the switch stack is ok, can you tell if the coil is locking on or is it a mechanical problem preventing the spring from popping it back up?

For number 3, did you have 3 balls in the trough? The firmware will not start a game unless all3 balls are detected. If there were 3 balls, check the trough switches for proper operation (may need to be cleaned).

#37 5 years ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

On the pop and sling caps, if they read zero, they are shorted and should be replaced... No need to have the boards installed to test this...

I'm just getting some parts to replace the caps at the slings and bumpers. I read it as a 22mfd 100v capacitor. Is this the equivalent?

http://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/MAL211839229E3/4164PHCT-ND/263318

Thanks!

#38 5 years ago

Yea, they are 22uf and 100v will work but you really don't have to go that high in voltage rating.

Also, Mouser looks to be crazy expensive on that capacitor. Not sure what Ed charges for shipping up north but he sells them for $.25 US...

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=CEA-22uF-50V-RMD

Wouldn't be a bad idea to stock up on several and some spare transistor, connectors and such. He also has great deals on capacitor kits for the Williams System 6 sound board, power supply rebuild kits. Pick up some 100uf/25V caps for the filter on the driver and CPU boards.

2 weeks later
#39 5 years ago

Update.

I finally sorted the pop bumper issue. I replaced the diode, cap and res on the pop giving me the trouble. That didn't resolve the issue so I then replaced the driver and pre-driver on the board. Still didn't resolve.

I had purchased a rottendog board as a Back up plan. Fitted this and the game ran like a jet! So rewarding to see it come to life, even if it was with a new combo board.

However not being happy with the original boards getting the best of me, I decided to keep going on repairing them.

After re-reading clays guide in relation to special solenoids, I decided to replace the driver board switch PIA. I socketed it and put in a new PIA. Refitted the boards and finally, got a full test and function of everything correctly! happy days, my firepower runs and lives!!

Next post I will list the entire work done. She is not quite finished, with some paint repair, inserts to level, playfield switch cleaning, clear coating and cabinet repairs all still on the list.

#40 5 years ago

Congrats!!

#41 5 years ago

Awesome job, congrats! Feels great to fix it yourself, right?

#42 5 years ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Awesome job, congrats! Feels great to fix it yourself, right?

Yes sir!

#43 5 years ago
Quoted from mtmellum:

Update. Decided to remove the board and replace the 7408's, 7402's and IC5 PIA. All socketed w twin leaf sockets for the future. This removed the special solenoid shorts! Didn't see if the PIA was faulty, had purchased a spare anyway so just decided to put it in. Happy with that.
This allowed me to run solenoid and lamp tests. All good except for the following two issues.
1. The lower jet bumper stayed on when triggered during the test. I suspect the cap, diode or resistor as the switch seems clear when it fires. I have full rebuild kits to do at some point. I will replace the components and clean the switches. Any other opinions/thoughts/suggestions?
2. The ball eject solenoid action wasn't strong enough to push a ball over the internal ramp. I vaguely remember a similar thread but I can't find it again. This is a bit more challenging. What could be the problem?
A third issue but not related to the diagnostics. The start switch doesn't do anything. I've added credits but can't start a game for some weird reason. Any ideas on what to do?
Tomorrow I will add some before and after board pictures and a short video of attract mode so you can see some of the work done and the results.
appreciate all the advice so far. Thanks! Seems to be very close now!

Item 2 fix was very simple. When I had the apron off the gate that prevents roll back to the ball eject had been flipped over and was acting as a stop! Check that the gate is correctly allowing the ball to travel!

Item 3 was exactly as suggested by Schwaggs. Needs three balls on the switches in the ball hold lane.

#44 5 years ago

Ahhhh, the flipped one way gate.... been there many times myself! Happens when testing with the apron off, the ball will flip the wire gate over the top and if you don't see it and flip it back over before putting the apron back on, it becomes a block. Nice catch and thanks for posting the resolution to remind us all!

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Rock Custom Pinball
From: $ 9.00
$ 14.00
Electronics
Yorktown Arcade Supply
$ 11.00
$ 279.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
From: $ 1.00
Playfield - Other
Rocket City Pinball
From: $ 1.25
Playfield - Other
Rocket City Pinball
$ 499.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods

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