(Topic ID: 59960)

Firepower Soundboard


By jxm1092

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 18 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by jxm1092
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#1 6 years ago

So from my last long thread I decided to just can it and get the new combined driver board from rottendog since the previous owner seems to have not taken care of this much and some of the board was damaged from their attempted repairs. However, now that the board is in I can finally get credits accepted and hit start. But now nothing happens other than the sound plays continuously. The ball never goes into the firing lane. I posted a video of what happens in case I'm not describing it well. Thanks for the help guys.

#2 6 years ago

Check solenoid fuse (F4 I think?). If good check if the ball launch solenoid has +30vdc going to one side. If good, see if CPU board is grounding the other side of the ball launch solenoid.

#3 6 years ago

Also what posessed someone to draw those black moons on the playfield (or whatever those are supposed to be)

#4 6 years ago

Not sure why the moons were ther. Probably to cover up the severe play field wear I'm guessing. So I finally got this puppy running (bad fuse). Now though I'm getting randomness stops in the middle of playing. The game could be on ball one an sometimes the thing just locks up and goes into attract mode and then I hit the start button and its like normal and it may or may not happen again? I thought buying the rotten dog board would mean these things won't happen? Could there be a different issue I'm not aware of? Or is it possible I have a bad board? It's only a few days old.

#5 6 years ago

Have you rebuilt the Power Supply Board and it's connectors?

#6 6 years ago

I have not. It's a gift for my father so I was going to give him a list of some items to change still playfield, solenoids etc. I'm guessing I should add a power supply, bridge rectifier and PS board to this list as well?

#7 6 years ago

Replace the 40 pin interconnect on the driver board - this is a must if not done already.

Also, replacing the sockets for the game ROMS can clear up random anomalies.

#8 6 years ago
Quoted from Prmailers:

Replace the 40 pin interconnect on the driver board - this is a must if not done already.
Also, replacing the sockets for the game ROMS can clear up random anomalies.

He got a new Rottendog combo board. No more 40 pin. I'm guessing a reset issue due to a intermittent loss of the 5v from the p/s. Check to see if you're getting the 5v on the new combo board. If voltage is low, start with connectors for solid connection, too loose, burnt, will cause a loss. Then move to the p/s. Look for cracked solder joints on the back of the male pins. If issue is still not fixed move to replacing the four filter caps and the 5v regulator on the p/s.

#9 6 years ago

What would be considered low voltage for the 5V signal? Also are there better connectors I can buy to replace the factory ones?

#10 6 years ago
Quoted from Prmailers:

Replace the 40 pin interconnect on the driver board - this is a must if not done already.
Also, replacing the sockets for the game ROMS can clear up random anomalies.

Oops...

#11 6 years ago
Quoted from jxm1092:

What would be considered low voltage for the 5V signal? Also are there better connectors I can buy to replace the factory ones?

It can vary but below 4.90v could cause resets. You can buy always buy new IDC connectors but pretty much anyone will suggest replacing with Trifurcon style crimp connectors and female molex plugs. Great Plains Electronics is a great place for these types of parts. You can always shoot Ed an email for specific info. Here's a link to .156" connectors. Note that, unless you have one already, you'll need a proper crimping tool to use these connectors.

http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/Category-37.asp

Also, if you haven't been told this already, I HIGHLY recommend reading Vid's guide.

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-bulletproofing-williams-system-6

#12 6 years ago

This may sound silly, but have you checked the slam tilt switch on the inside of the coin door? A slam tilt on a system 3-7 machine results in an instant reset of the software during game play.

-Hans

#13 6 years ago

So i checked the 5V and it looked good never really dipped. It's not the slam til switch because I can now duplicate it if I push both flipper buttons in close proximity of one another. Pressing one or the other rapidly individually does nothing. I took off connectors 3J5 and 3J6 put them back on and problem seems to be gone for now. Time will tell but I'm hoping to just upgrade all the boards and connectors in the near future. Thanks for the help guys.

#14 6 years ago
Quoted from jxm1092:

because I can now duplicate it if I push both flipper buttons in close proximity of one another

Like dtown I'm looking at 5v.

You will not see it dip unless you have a scope on it. Have you ever recapped the power supply?

ANY machine that is over 30 and has the original caps on the P/S AND shows the problem you are seeing, I wouldn't even pick up my DVM until I've recapped that P/S.

#15 6 years ago
Quoted from Patofnaud:

ANY machine that is over 30 and has the original caps on the P/S ... I wouldn't even pick up my DVM until I've recapped that P/S.

Yep, I agree here. While you have the PSU out I would go ahead and replace the whole pin header block that +5V runs over.

Check out http://www.pinball4you.ch/tmp/fire/Williams%20Pinball%20Sys%203-7%20Repair%20Part%201.pdf (specifically the "suggested power supply upgrades" section) if you haven't read Clay's guides before

#16 6 years ago

My Firepower had untouched boards which was a blessing but I still replaced all four filter caps on the power supply as well as two larger diodes next to the biggest filter cap. We're talking like less than 15 bucks in parts. I also removed old and reflowed new solder on all the male header pins. Of course none of these pins were burnt. I didn't replace the 5v regulator since I wasn't having any reset issues but I do have one on hand in case there's a problem in the future as well as two replacement bridge rectifiers for the coils and lamps. If you don't have the schematics book I highly recommend firepowerpinball.com for copies of these. Absolutely necessary for board work and research.

#17 5 years ago

Those LM323 regulators are rock solid, and system 6 is much more tolerant of voltages than WPC era boards. But it doesn't have the best rectifier setup, and the main filter cap is critical to have in good condition. I am actually sitting on a re-capped / rebuilt system 6 power supply right now that I haven't gotten around to listing for sale.

If you're going to replace it with an aftermarket piece, either Xpin or Kohout are the ones to get.

-Hans

#18 5 years ago

Thanks for all the pointers guys. I did find clays guides online but it is taking some time to get through them since its a lot of info and this is a spare time project. Next thing I will do though if he doesn't want to replace the PS board is change the caps and resolder the headers. I'm going to look into all new connectors for the whole game as well.

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