(Topic ID: 244682)

Firepower Solenoids not working


By bballmr

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 13 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Schwaggs
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 1 year ago

I recently picked up a Firepower and I have none of the solenoids working. After running the diagnostics test it fails all the solenoids. So far I have checked the fuse at F2, checked the wires at pin 6 or 3 at J3 on the power board, and checked all the red wires on the solenoids under the play field. I can't seem to figure out where to go next with this. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

#2 1 year ago
Quoted from bballmr:

I recently picked up a Firepower and I have none of the solenoids working. After running the diagnostics test it fails all the solenoids. So far I have checked the fuse at F2, checked the wires at pin 6 or 3 at J3 on the power board, and checked all the red wires on the solenoids under the play field. I can't seem to figure out where to go next with this. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Do the flippers work?

Measure the voltage from the red wires on the solenoids under the playfield to ground. This will tell you if they are getting power.

#3 1 year ago

Check the rectifier for loose wires or bad connections. I have seen broken spade connectors at the bridges.

#4 1 year ago

A few things to check
Check fuses with a DMM (not just eyeball)
Reflow solder to all header pins on all boards
The 40 pin interconnect between the MPU and the SDB is almost always suspect. You'll need to replace the pins, both male and female if not done already. I've read that some people say that there's no point in further troubleshooting until this is done.

I would start there.

Also this thread
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-bulletproofing-williams-system-6

#5 1 year ago

Thank you for the posts! Let me back up for a minute since I realized my fuse in F2 was actually blown. Now that it has a functioning fuse the gas starts up with the sound of Firepower and won't start a game. It also fired the ball trough solenoid and the kickback solenoid on the left when it's turned on. Prior to me replacing the fuse the flippers used to work. I separated the 40 pin connector and re connected it still no difference. The connecter looks never since its bright white. Considering the feedback I will most likely go and replace both male and female on this unless due to this new information any of you feel I should be looking in to something else first. Thanks again for the support!

#6 1 year ago

Dumb question, but you have three balls loaded?

#7 1 year ago

I’m a rookie. No such thing as dumb haha. Yea I got 3 in there.

#8 1 year ago

And do they all register on the corresponding switches? It def will not start a game w/out thinking there’s 3 balls. But it all that’s working correctly, and the 40pins original.. may as well replace that and go from there since you should do that anyway and it Eliminates a possible problem point. My first pin was also a firepower and it took forever to find the problem that prevented it from starting a game — which turned out to be a coin switch wire that was bent and grounding out - causing switch matrix problems somehow. Check that too

#9 1 year ago
Quoted from bballmr:

Thank you for the posts! Let me back up for a minute since I realized my fuse in F2 was actually blown. Now that it has a functioning fuse the gas starts up with the sound of Firepower and won't start a game. It also fired the ball trough solenoid and the kickback solenoid on the left when it's turned on. Prior to me replacing the fuse the flippers used to work. I separated the 40 pin connector and re connected it still no difference. The connecter looks never since its bright white. Considering the feedback I will most likely go and replace both male and female on this unless due to this new information any of you feel I should be looking in to something else first. Thanks again for the support!

Is the game going into attract mode? Anything on the displays?

#10 1 year ago

ok so MBecker I took your advice and realized I definitely had some sort of weird issue with the coin mech. I noticed some of the springs where the coin rolls through weren't springing all the way back so I put them back to the resting position. Im not sure if that is what fixed my issue.

Finally I got the machine up and running and it is playing games! Part of this may just be luck but it is now working consistently.

Only issues I have now is the solenoid test is coming up with a fail on solenoids 2,3,13, and 15.

The switch test is also displaying an issue with switch 46. This is the right eject hole. The only functional issue I can see when playing is when both balls are locked the right eject solenoid keeps firing. I have to assume this is why the diagnostics is telling me that switch 46 has an issue.

Im in pretty good shape here. If anyone has any advice on switch 46 or my solenoids that are failing please let me know. Thanks again guys I really appreciate it.

#11 1 year ago

Glad it’s working (somewhat) now !! Yeah — the coin mech springs, same issue .. weird.

Anyway I can’t remember if those solenoids are grouped on fuses or they just fused all the selenoids together on a single fuse? If a group is out like that, I Suspect a fuse is blown. (You need to remove fuses from holders to test continuity but it sounds like you already figured that out earlier). If not a fuse, then you either have blown transistors (not super likely those are ALL blown, or possibly a seating issue with connectors or the 40 pin header is my guess.

Check the switch matrix and see if those switches are in the same row or column for the ball ejects. Could be a bad diode on one of them (if in same row or column) or unintentional ground contact on a switch.

#12 1 year ago
Quoted from bballmr:

ok so MBecker I took your advice and realized I definitely had some sort of weird issue with the coin mech. I noticed some of the springs where the coin rolls through weren't springing all the way back so I put them back to the resting position. Im not sure if that is what fixed my issue.
Finally I got the machine up and running and it is playing games! Part of this may just be luck but it is now working consistently.
Only issues I have now is the solenoid test is coming up with a fail on solenoids 2,3,13, and 15.
The switch test is also displaying an issue with switch 46. This is the right eject hole. The only functional issue I can see when playing is when both balls are locked the right eject solenoid keeps firing. I have to assume this is why the diagnostics is telling me that switch 46 has an issue.
Im in pretty good shape here. If anyone has any advice on switch 46 or my solenoids that are failing please let me know. Thanks again guys I really appreciate it.

If you're unfamiliar with the switch matrix, look here:

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_3_-_7#Testing_the_Switch_Matrix

http://blackknightpinball.co.uk/wp/

#13 1 year ago
Quoted from bballmr:

ok so MBecker I took your advice and realized I definitely had some sort of weird issue with the coin mech. I noticed some of the springs where the coin rolls through weren't springing all the way back so I put them back to the resting position. Im not sure if that is what fixed my issue.
Finally I got the machine up and running and it is playing games! Part of this may just be luck but it is now working consistently.
Only issues I have now is the solenoid test is coming up with a fail on solenoids 2,3,13, and 15.
The switch test is also displaying an issue with switch 46. This is the right eject hole. The only functional issue I can see when playing is when both balls are locked the right eject solenoid keeps firing. I have to assume this is why the diagnostics is telling me that switch 46 has an issue.
Im in pretty good shape here. If anyone has any advice on switch 46 or my solenoids that are failing please let me know. Thanks again guys I really appreciate it.

If the right eject hole switch is stuck closed, the game will continue to fire the solenoid to eject the ball it thinks is resting in the scoop to return it to the trough.

Inspect and adjust that switch so it is open with a ball removed and closes when a ball rests in the scoop. Make all adjustments to switches with the power off to avoid shorting out and damaging the switch matrix.

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