(Topic ID: 132850)

Firepower Resurrection


By fattdirk

4 years ago



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  • 63 posts
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  • Latest reply 2 days ago by mrm_4
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There are 63 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 4 years ago

Every year my neighborhood hosts a block party pig roast complete with a band, a roasted pig and plenty of booze. The past two years I've brought a pinball machine as a contribution to the fun. The first year I brought an F14 and last year I brought a NGG. I still remember puling up at my neighbors house where they host the party and his 5 year old son asking me what the heck it was! I couldn't believe the kid had never seen a pinball machine before. I really enjoyed the adults getting a hit of nostalgia when they saw the machine as well as sharing the experience with their kids.

This year I decided to take upon a little challenge. I figured I'd try and pick up a project machine and get it running before the party and then test how bullet proof my repairs were by letting it face all the abuse of the party goers. Also, last year there was some rain at the party and we had to frantically move the NGG inside before it ended up getting wet. It caused an inconvenience because the band was playing in the garage and there was a bunch of space taken up by the pinball. I figured I'd get something that didn't look too cherry, but played great and gave the same experience but with less risk.

I'm going to track getting a project up to snuff for the next two weeks. Do you think I can do it?

I was browsing thru pinside looking for a good candidate for the last few weeks when I stumbled upon this thread:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-sale-complete-firepower-project-with-a-nice-bg

BINGO!! I've never owned a Firepower and it's a title I've always wanted. I also am pretty experienced at repairing WMS system 6 games. Furthermore the game looked to be in decent shape and was complete. Keep in mind the party is in 2 weeks :-0

I shot a PM to pinwow and told him I'd take the game. Now let me tell you how smooth this transaction went.
Sent PM Weds
Pinwow ships game Thurs and sends me pics and tracking
I pick up game on Friday at FedEx

I'm going to show you guys pics of the packing job this dude did. It was amazing. I wouldn't hesitate to buy from him again. If this is how he packages project machines I could only imagine the treatment a CQ game gets.

Game on the dock at Fedex
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Rusty Trusty harbor freight trailer
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The forklift dude at Fedex trucking my new FP to my trailer
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Locked and loaded
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#2 4 years ago

Trailer and game home safe and sound:
20150710_114324.jpg
Within this cardboard tomb lies the backbox:
20150710_114836.jpg
After cutting off like 10 layers of shrink wrap I think I see the body!!
20150710_114846.jpg
Ohhhhh pretty backglass
20150710_115031.jpg
Yes - that is the body completely encased in protective cardboard:
20150710_115421.jpg

And just for safe measure - might as well completely wrap the body in shrink wrap also:
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#3 4 years ago

First step is to put the legs on - what an interesting carpentry job on the bottom of the cabinet:
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Leg bolts that came with the game didn't fit right they weren't threaded enough, but luckily I always have some extra bolts laying around. I put on the front two legs and the right leg bracket was stripped out. I tried to change the bracket with the game standing on it's end, but it wasn't coming very easily. I decided just to get the game up on the 3 good legs and balanced on the fourth wobbly leg and change the leg bracket from above.
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#4 4 years ago

Changed out the drywall screw holding the apron on since it was slipping off when I was trying to prop up the playfield to look at the backbox connectors:

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Ahhh - much nicer:
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#5 4 years ago

Enjoying this so far.

#6 4 years ago

I put the head on the game and double checked all the connections - I fired her up and nothing happened. I check the main game fuse and it was burned!! Ah Ha...
20150710_125724.jpg

I decided this was probably the sign of a larger problem. I assumed one of the bridge rectifiers was bad after the transformer. I thought using a circuit breaker instead of a fuse would be good to help with my troubleshooting efforts.
20150710_125831.jpg

I quickly plug the game back in and get this awful 60HZ hum coming from the game. I immediately unplug it and walk over to see the MOV is in flames and on fire. It was pretty cool watching it burn. I didn't have my camera ready otherwise I would've taken a picture. Here's the after effect where you can see the insulation burned:
20150710_125946.jpg

I clipped the MOV off the line filter since we don't really need it at the moment and took a note to order a new one. I also unplugged the connector that goes to the game transformer in the backbox. I plugged the game back in and it wasn't humming. I flipped the power switch a few times and nothing happened. I then measured the AC voltage at the transformer connector and confirmed it was getting 120V AC. Next I tested the two bridge rectifiers after the transformer for shorts. They tested fine. I reconnected the plug to the transformer and just for good measure disconnected the AC to the bridge rectifiers. I powered up the game and the GI lit up sort of. When I say sort of, it looks like all but 5 bulbs are burnt out on this game. I can tell it's not a wiring problem cause I can see the bulbs are black from years of just being on till they died.

Everything was good at this point so I decided to plug the bridge rectifiers back in. I plugged them back in, took a deep breath and powered up the game. The MPU only blinked once and the displays showed some garbage on them. I measured the voltage at the power supply and MPU boards and was getting a solid 5V. This confirmed what I figured would be the case. I've got a board problem.

I pulled the boards out and brought them into my lab area.

#7 4 years ago

It's like reading the now classic thread "Into the maw of despair" all over again.
Can't stop reading. lol

#8 4 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

Enjoying this so far.

Thanks, I was trying to do a photo documentary but apparently you can only upload 8 pics. I'm not sure if that's a limit per thread or per day or what. I'll keep trying though cause I keep taking pics. If it's per day I'll just come back and insert the pics tomorrow.

Whenever I get a system 6 game in on repair I always replace all the rom sockets and 40 pin connector. I got lucky with this MPU because the 40-pin connector was already replaced. I did have to replace the sockets though. I only had 6 24-pin DIP sockets left so I didn't get a chance to replace the socket for the ram. I figured it'd get tested during the rest of my testing. I'll order a new socket later. After I replaced the ROM sockets I installed Leon's test rom.

This rom has a program in it that allows you to bench test a system 6 MPU using just a standard 5V power supply. You pop the chip in IC17, connect 5V to the power connector and power it up. The lights on the MPU started to blink which meant the board booted and I had activity.

Next thing I did was to check the outputs of the PIA that runs the displays. The test chip just has a program that cycles the outputs high and low. You can use a logic probe to observe if there is a bad output. This makes troubleshooting these boards a snap. The PIA on the MPU tested fine.

The test chip also allows you to test the three memory chips on the MPU by pressing the self-diagnostic button. I pressed the button and waiting. The on board LEDS are supposed to flash three times one for each ram chip that tests good and then go back to the quick flashing it does to signify that the program is running. I ended up only getting one flash. This means the 5101 Ram is bad. I'm going to have to replace it.

Next I connected up my driver board. You leave this off in the beginning because it allows you to isolate all problems between the MPU or the driver board. If the MPU tests good, then you can connect the driver board and see if the issues are being caused by it. The faulty ram has no effect on the testing of the PIA chips on the driver board. I powered the board back up and all the outputs for the two PIA chips on the driver board were strobing high and low. This was a real relief because hopefully if I can post pictures there was quite a bit of corrosion on the pins of both PIAs that I had to gently clean off with a fiber pen.

This is where I'm finishing for today. I'm going to be ordering a 5101 adapter to replace that ram. Until then I'm kind of stuck in the water. I don't usually like to start cleaning games until I get the electronics working, but since I'm in a time crunch on this one I might throw some Novus on the playfield tomorrow while I wait for my new Ram to arrive.

#9 4 years ago

duplicate

#10 4 years ago
Quoted from fattdirk:

I got lucky with this MPU because the 40-pin connector was already replaced.

Yep.
I remember pointing that out in the original for sale thread.

#11 4 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

Yep.
I remember pointing that out in the original for sale thread.

I've got my fingers crossed that once I swap out the 5101 that the MPU will just boot. Your comment helped seal the transaction since I hate replacing those 40 pins. They take me forever.

#12 4 years ago
Quoted from fattdirk:

I've got my fingers crossed that once I swap out the 5101 that the MPU will just boot. Your comment helped seal the transaction since I hate replacing those 40 pins. They take me forever.

Yes they do.
I had to do it on my Barracora and my Firepower.
As well as any Scanbe sockets on a ton of games. lol.

#13 4 years ago

Crappy corroded PIA chips. Amazingly they work fine. I just cleaned up the corrosion with small wire wheel on my dremel. I'm glad because I'm sure desoldering those chips would've been a PITA!! get it PITA/ PIA??

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Old garbage WMS system 6 sockets.
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OHHH shiny new socket...
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#14 4 years ago

Threw a little Novus 2 on the playfield this morning to see how she'd clean up. Think it doesn't look too bad. The game must've been played hard because on 4 bulbs are good in the GI on the entire playfield.

Before:
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After:
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#15 4 years ago

It's amazing what a little Novus and elbow grease can do to these old pins. Looks much brighter and way better already. I noticed those are the RN sockets which aren't great but still aren't the dreaded Scanbe sockets. The new sockets looks great.

#16 4 years ago
Quoted from TimeWarp1:

It's amazing what a little Novus and elbow grease can do to these old pins. Looks much brighter and way better already. I noticed those are the RN sockets which aren't great but still aren't the dreaded Scanbe sockets. The new sockets looks great.

That's what I thought also. I was amazed at how much the black is shining after the Novus. It looks 100% better. I've got new flipper bats and rubber that I'm going to put on so I'll do some more scrubbing after taking the plastics off when I rerubber. I ordered some LEDs for the GI so I'm waiting to rubber till those come in. I made some new target decals and replaced two of those shitty targets that didn't match. I'll post some pics if it stops raining and I can get out in the garage.

#17 4 years ago

Congrats on the pickup! A great and historically important game. Nice thread, I'm having fun following along!

#18 4 years ago

Great thread, way better than reading drama.

#19 4 years ago

When is this said block party? I want to crash it.

#20 4 years ago

You can remove the socketed 6810 if you clip a jumper, add a 4.7k resistor, and add a 6802 CPU. I always do that to avoid replacing an addition IC socket.

Another good tip. A lot of Motorola branded MC6808P CPUs will fuction as a 6802 CPU with internal RAM. Might have been a conspiracy from Motorola to sell WMS more components =D.

#21 4 years ago
Quoted from barakandl:

You can remove the socketed 6810 if you clip a jumper, add a 4.7k resistor, and add a 6802 CPU. I always do that to avoid replacing an addition IC socket.
Another good tip. A lot of Motorola branded MC6808P CPUs will fuction as a 6802 CPU with internal RAM. Might have been a conspiracy from Motorola to sell WMS more components =D.

Hmmmm - I might just do this.

I received the 5010 NVRAM adapter you sent me. Thanks again. I plugged it in and now I'm getting the proper flashes with Leon's test ROM.

I burned a new green flipper 1 rom because my old one verified as bad. I didn't have any 2716 chips laying around so I just doubled the image using the copy /b command and burned it to a 2732.

I put everything back together and powered it up in the game and.........

nothing :-/

I'm pretty sure the unobtainable bipolar proms are bad since the board boots fine with leons test rom and runs even with the driver board connected.

Luckily I thought ahead and had placed an order Friday for the components to convert the board over to using the combo rom and get rid of those pesky proms.

I did run the diagnostic test on the sound board after my failure of getting the game running today and I'm happy to report it loudly stated "FIREPOWER" and played a bunch of beeps and boops so i'm thinking that piece might actually work.

I'll report back after I upgrade my board with the combo rom.

#22 4 years ago

Looks great so far. I know I have much to learn on sys 6 games. Your documented process is appreciated. Love firepower!

#23 4 years ago

One of the best slings art in pinball. GL with the resto.

#24 4 years ago

Well good news and bad news to report.

I modded the MPU to accept the combo rom and installed it in the game and it booted right up!! The game still didn't start and I put the game in switch test and tracked it down to a broken wire on the switch matrix for the two trough switches. I repinned the molex in the head and the game fired right up.

Unfortunately I have two more issues. One that is potentially costly and one minor.

The minor issue is that the sound board seems to be saying fire power much more than I remember. I put the game in switch test and it doesn't appear that I have any stuck switches that would cause this. All of the other game sounds seem fine. I'm going to have to troubleshoot this further later.

The other issue I have is that none of the displays really work. One is completely dead, the credit display is missing segments, another one is outgassed, and the last two are missing a bunch of digits. The main display control board where the credit display is mounted appears to be pretty hacked up. I haven't even had a chance to measure the voltages off the power supply to see if that could be part of the issue. The PIA tested fine when I had the board out of the game. That's as far as I traced the signal though. I might put it back on the bench and see if I can trace the signal all the way to the outputs where they go to the display driver.

I've never really had to deal with display issues like this other than a bad glass or two in a game. Is it worth my while to try and repair these displays or just bite the bullet and order a set of LED displays and call it a day?

I'm really on the fence. I hate to pony up another 200 bucks on this game since I'm already kind of further into it than I wanted to be from the beginning. The issue is, that the game is unplayable with out score displays so I have to do something.

#25 4 years ago

I replaced my displays with Xpin since my Firepower is a keeper. I still have the old displays, one segment is out on master display and players 1 and 2. I'm assuming it's the 7801 chip (going off memory), but am not experienced enough to know for sure. Interested in them?

#26 4 years ago

I had a Firepower sound board do the same thing (excessive Firepower callouts) and it turned out to be the PIA. Probe the inputs and outputs of the PIA during sound test and look for a stuck high or low pin to confirm. I can't remember if it was a bad pin on Pb or the data bus. Of course it could be a bad solenoid output or connection between the driver board and the sound board input at 10J3 or IC5 that buffers the solenoid inputs to the PIA.

For the display problem, I would start by verifying the strobe signals are getting to the master display board and out to the display modules. This may resolve the missing digits and you might be able to salvage some of the display glass.

Have you been to http://www.firepowerpinball.com/ ? Look under the Documents section at the Assembly/Logic Drawings. Open the Master Display Boards document. Lots of good info to help troubleshoot the display system on this or any other System 6 machine for that matter....

#27 4 years ago
Quoted from Geocab:

I replaced my displays with Xpin since my Firepower is a keeper. I still have the old displays, one segment is out on master display and players 1 and 2. I'm assuming it's the 7801 chip (going off memory), but am not experienced enough to know for sure. Interested in them?

Definitely - how much do you want for them?

#28 4 years ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

I had a Firepower sound board do the same thing (excessive Firepower callouts) and it turned out to be the PIA. Probe the inputs and outputs of the PIA during sound test and look for a stuck high or low pin to confirm. I can't remember if it was a bad pin on Pb or the data bus. Of course it could be a bad solenoid output or connection between the driver board and the sound board input at 10J3 or IC5 that buffers the solenoid inputs to the PIA.

What do you mean by sound test? Do you mean the test on the actual sound board or do you mean the solenoid test? I probed all the outputs on the PIA with LEONs test rom, but didn't go all the way thru the driver circuit.

#29 4 years ago

I'm referring to the PIA on the sound board. Can Leon's ROM test the sound board PIA?

The sound test I was referring to was the one you press the button on the sound board that cycles through all the sounds. Now that I think about it, you can only test the PIA Data Bus when you do that as Pb is only used to receive sound commands from the driver board. It won't be active during the sound board test pattern.

#30 4 years ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

I'm referring to the PIA on the sound board. Can Leon's ROM test the sound board PIA?
The sound test I was referring to was the one you press the button on the sound board that cycles through all the sounds. Now that I think about it, you can only test the PIA Data Bus when you do that as Pb is only used to receive sound commands from the driver board. It won't be active during the sound board test pattern.

So the sounds cycle thru just like normal when you hit the diagnostic button on the sound board. Also, if I cradle the ball on the flipper, the game doesn't keep repeating the "firepower" call out.

#31 4 years ago

Same type problem I had. During gameplay the machine would seem to say Firepower a lot and play the wrong sounds in response to the switch hits. Chances are the CPU signals that tell the sound board what to play are not making it to, and through the soundboard correctly. Assuming the signals are making it to the soundboard accurately, typical problem chips on the soundboard are the 4050 buffer and the PIA on the sound card.

The program tells the sound board which sounds or voices to play though solenoid outputs on the driver board. Binary data on which sound to play comes over on solenoid outputs 9-13 on the driver board into J3 on the sound board. First thing to check is that all these solenoid level signals are making it to J3 on the sound board. There are pullup resistors on the sound board to pull the signal up to 5V when each of the solenoid outputs are OFF (floating). When the solenoid output is on, it grounds the input to 0v. While the game is running, you should see logic level pulsing on J3 pins.

From there, the signal is fed through IC5 which is a 4050 buffer to condition the signal to a more normal 0-5v signal that is input to the soundboard PIA IC10 on pins 10-14. With the game running, check for pulsing on each of these PIA pins. If they are not pulsing, you have a problem with the IC5 buffer or the PIA.

Alternatively, you can check both that the solenoid output signal is reaching the sound board and being conditioned by the 4050 by probing the inputs and outputs of IC5 while playing a game. This will verify the signals are coming into the board and being conditioned properly by the 4050. Input and output pins for each gate on IC5 for the 5 lines that Firepower uses are listed below. Again, you should see pulsing on all these pins if things are working correctly. If not, one of them will be stuck at 0 or 5V or not pulsing.
IN OUT
5 4
3 2
9 10
11 12
14 15

#32 4 years ago

Thanks for the props on packing!
Sorry about the trouble you are having with the displays and sound, that sounds like a pain. Do you think any of that happened as a result of the MOV catching fire?
Thx man

Keep posting I can't wait to see the end result.....I wish I could get more time to go through all of my projects

And Fatdirk is great to deal with as well!

#33 4 years ago
Quoted from Pinwow:

Thanks for the props on packing!
Sorry about the trouble you are having with the displays and sound, that sounds like a pain. Do you think any of that happened as a result of the MOV catching fire?
Thx man
Keep posting I can't wait to see the end result.....I wish I could get more time to go through all of my projects
And Fatdirk is great to deal with as well!

No worries man! I think it's just an old game . The displays are probably just roasted from years of being on route. One odd thing is that all the bulbs in the inserts are good even though the GI had 4 total bulbs good which is funny. The flippers are good and strong also as well as 3 of the pops. Also another plus, I measured the +/- 100V DC this morning and both were nice and solid so that's one thing I don't have to mess with.

The sound problem isn't that bad, I mean it's super annoying but that board is so simple I should get down to the root of the issue by the end of the week if I don't get any other repair jobs between then and now.

Geocab is hooking me up with his old displays so between his old set and the components on mine, I think I can cobble together one working set.

I want to give mega props to Geocab also because I didn't think there'd be any way I'd get my hands on a set of displays for this game and was pretty sure I was going to have to go the xpin route.

I played a bunch of games on this thing last night and even though I couldn't tell how many points I had because the score displays don't work, I'm pretty sure I scored at least a billion so you guys have something to aim for .

#34 4 years ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Same type problem I had. During gameplay the machine would seem to say Firepower a lot and play the wrong sounds in response to the switch hits. Chances are the CPU signals that tell the sound board what to play are not making it to, and through the soundboard correctly. Assuming the signals are making it to the soundboard accurately, typical problem chips on the soundboard are the 4050 buffer and the PIA on the sound card.
The program tells the sound board which sounds or voices to play though solenoid outputs on the driver board. Binary data on which sound to play comes over on solenoid outputs 9-13 on the driver board into J3 on the sound board. First thing to check is that all these solenoid level signals are making it to J3 on the sound board. There are pullup resistors on the sound board to pull the signal up to 5V when each of the solenoid outputs are OFF (floating). When the solenoid output is on, it grounds the input to 0v. While the game is running, you should see logic level pulsing on J3 pins.
From there, the signal is fed through IC5 which is a 4050 buffer to condition the signal to a more normal 0-5v signal that is input to the soundboard PIA IC10 on pins 10-14. With the game running, check for pulsing on each of these PIA pins. If they are not pulsing, you have a problem with the IC5 buffer or the PIA.
Alternatively, you can check both that the solenoid output signal is reaching the sound board and being conditioned by the 4050 by probing the inputs and outputs of IC5 while playing a game. This will verify the signals are coming into the board and being conditioned properly by the 4050. Input and output pins for each gate on IC5 for the 5 lines that Firepower uses are listed below. Again, you should see pulsing on all these pins if things are working correctly. If not, one of them will be stuck at 0 or 5V or not pulsing.
IN OUT
5 4
3 2
9 10
11 12
14 15

This morning I just booted up the game and left the ball in the trough. Every so often the ball will do the exact same sound routine that it does when you press the credit button. It's like "FIREPOWER" then this resonating do do do do do do do. And if you wait awhile it does it again. So it's not just the word FIREPOWER, it's that whole sequence. I have to go to work so I won't be able to mess with it for a bit. Also, it seems to play the correct sounds on switch hits. I'm going to have to investigate more later.

#35 4 years ago

(woops... wrong thread somehow... sorry!)

#36 4 years ago

The driver board sends encoded signals to the sound board with 4 or 5 solenoid driver transistors. If one is open or stuck, you would get the wrong speech/sound calls.

In solenoid test, you can watch the sound triggers with a logic probe on the sound board input plug. Doing that will let you narrow the focus to the driver board or sound board.

If more than a few displays have problems, i would just replace with LED display. If you have the master display with the discrete components, they are not too bad to work on.

#37 4 years ago
Quoted from barakandl:

The driver board sends encoded signals to the sound board with 4 or 5 solenoid driver transistors. If one is open or stuck, you would get the wrong speech/sound calls.
In solenoid test, you can watch the sound triggers with a logic probe on the sound board input plug. Doing that will let you narrow the focus to the driver board or sound board.

Going to poke around on this tomorrow. I haven't had a chance to look at it yet. I need the displays to work so I can run a proper switch test to be absolutely positive it's not a flakey switch first.

Quoted from barakandl:

If more than a few displays have problems, i would just replace with LED display. If you have the master display with the discrete components, they are not too bad to work on.

This is what I was going to ultimately do, but luckily I'm getting a set of displays with a missing segment from Geocab. I'm hoping that between the two sets I'll be able to cobble together one working one. If this game ends up being a keeper, I'll probably upgrade to LED displays since I really like the look.

#38 4 years ago

Segment problems are a lot of times as simple as a burnt open resistor. I think they are 10k with UDN HV drivers. Use half or 1 watt replacements. Besides that there is a segment decoder chip and logic level to high voltage switch array. The high voltage chips are obsolete and expensive.

#39 4 years ago

Little bit of progress. Installed the new displays. Just need to troubleshoot that pesky segment. tmp_5551-20150716_222416-2009846292.jpg

#40 4 years ago

check the 9 pin connectors across the top of the mpu

#41 4 years ago

I decided to troubleshoot the display issue before work this morning.

First thing I did was pull the high voltage fuse on the power supply F3. This removes the +/- 100V DC from the master display board. ALWAYS do this before troubleshooting the logic on one of these boards. If you've ever been bit by 100V DC it's a lesson you'll never forget. This allows you to use your logic probe to see the signals without any danger.
20150717_072937.jpg

Next, I looked at the schematics and determined that segment c was the one that was out. I traced the line back to see that the signal goes from the board output to resistor R3 then to pin 15 on the 7180 chip at IC9 on the master display board. I looked up the data sheet and found that the 7180 is a just a buffer chip between the 5V logic level voltage and the 100v driving the actually displays. Pin 15 is triggered by pin 4 of the same chip. I put the game into test mode and set the game in display test so the displays were all showing 8's. I had counted the number of presses that you needed to do on the test button for it to display 8's beforehand since the displays had no power and I couldn't see what was happening at this time. It takes 10 presses in case anyone is interested.

I connected my logic probe up to the 5V and ground test points on the MPU:
20150717_073000.jpg

Next I probed pin 4 on IC9 for activity. I knew if there was pulsing on that pin that the logic signal was good up to that point and that the issue with either IC9 or in the signal path from IC9 to the board outputs.
20150717_073104.jpg

As you can see there was activity on pin 4. YAY!

So next I pulled the master display board and put it on my workbench. I tested the signal path from Pin 15 on IC9 thru R3, then measured the resistance of R3 to make sure it was still 10k Ohms and then the path all the way to the credit display glass and outputs of display 1 and 2. These all tested good. This meant the 7180 chip was bad. So there is good and bad news to this story. The 7180 chips are obsolete, hard to get and expensive which is bad news. The good news is that I figured out that there is an unused input/output on the chip!!

So instead of replacing the chip. I just clipped the legs off the chip at pin 4 and pin 15 and soldered a jumper from pin 1 to pin 4 and pin 18 to pin 15. This effectively removes the bad input/output and reroutes the path to the unused one on the same chip.
20150717_072327.jpg

I installed the board back in the game and powered her up and VOILA!!
20150717_073205.jpg

#42 4 years ago

Now I just need to finish installing the new rubbers and LEDS and the sound issue and she should be good to go.

#43 4 years ago

That is awesome to see all segments working again on those displays! Nice work!

#44 4 years ago

I hope one day im that good at troubleshooting.

#45 4 years ago

Nice work!

You might be able to salvage a couple 7180s from the bad master display board you have. They may still be good... I purchased a stack of dead master display board from ebay for that very purpose. Every one I pulled so far was good...

#46 4 years ago

I'm making progress. I think I tracked down the triggering of the extra sounds to the right flipper somehow. I ran thru the solenoid tests for each sound input and probed the inputs at the sound board connector to make sure they were strobing correctly and there were no stuck inputs and everything was fine. I then traced the signal to IC5 and IC7 and tested the respective pins for in and out and everything looked fine there. All the sounds cycle normally when the game is playing unless I press the right flipper. I manually moved the right flipper and the lane change feature works but it doesn't trigger the sound. There is a sound solenoid being fired every time the flipper button is pressed and the flipper fires. Anyone have an idea on this one? I'm thinking I"m going to replace the diode on the flipper. I'm thinking it might be bad and causing EMF and activating the sound transistor.

#47 4 years ago
Quoted from fattdirk:

I'm making progress. I think I tracked down the triggering of the extra sounds to the right flipper somehow. I ran thru the solenoid tests for each sound input and probed the inputs at the sound board connector to make sure they were strobing correctly and there were no stuck inputs and everything was fine. I then traced the signal to IC5 and IC7 and tested the respective pins for in and out and everything looked fine there. All the sounds cycle normally when the game is playing unless I press the right flipper. I manually moved the right flipper and the lane change feature works but it doesn't trigger the sound. There is a sound solenoid being fired every time the flipper button is pressed and the flipper fires. Anyone have an idea on this one? I'm thinking I"m going to replace the diode on the flipper. I'm thinking it might be bad and causing EMF and activating the sound transistor.

EMF feedback can manifest back into the sound board for sure. When you go to change the diodes, you might find one that just crumbles apart on you.

#48 4 years ago

Maybe the vibration of the flipper mechanism is causing a tightly gapped switch to close somewhere on the PF. I would look at the switch for the other solenoid that is firing (one of the ball locks?)

Are any points being scored when you hit the flipper? This could be a clue as to which switch is triggering...

On the sound issue, I take it your machine stopped frequently saying "Firepower" while playing as you originally posted. Just FYI, its not normal that is says Firepower during gameplay until you score all the upper lanes (FIRE) and the blue targets on the right (POWER), then it will say FIREPOWER. Thats about it.

#49 4 years ago

My suspicion was correct! Right flipper coil had a bad diode. Measured it and it was open. I replaced it with an new 1n4001 and now the sound is perfect. Need to throw a few more bulbs in the gi, replace the flipper bats and rebuild the flippers, replace the coil sleeves in the pops and slings, and evapo rust the legs and she will be ready for the party!tmp_31174-20150719_125336-1147238577.jpg

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