Quoted from beatmaster:a lot of sanding and buffing.
Here's the rundown;
(the key) i started to sand the lockdown bar with a 100 grid sand paper, next 180 (i might use a wheel on this one), 280, 320, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1200 all that always in the same direction, always.
Buffing, i also like to use a power drill with buffing wheels, it gives me a better control in general and in tight spot.
The thing with stainless steel because of the texture it takes a lot of time, i can spend 15 - 20 minutes with a 100 grid sand paper alone, same for 180, as you go up it becomes smoother so it's a lot easier, at 600 it starts to shine, at 1000 it's pretty smooth, 1200 you remove all the fine lines (before that for the bigger ones). most of it by hand (a lot of time and elbow grease).
buffing,
good buffing wheels and paste.
i always use the same wheel with the same color (green for stainless steel), another to remove left overs and another wheel for final buffing (depending on the area i might switch between size or shape).
i always (most of the time, depending on the piece) buff in the same direction.
it's not easy but after a few pieces you get the idea, don't stay too long in the same spot, apply just enough paste on the wheel etc...
- i already the did 100 and 180 on the rear glass channel tonight, should be done tomorrow.
As everyone is saying, very nice result. I have done three lock down bars and tried something different each time. Most sources say to change angles with every grit to be able to see that the new grit has removed all marks from the previous grit. No matter what I do I wind up with some hazing. From a photo distance like yours mine would look pretty similar. Up close you can see features in the shine. The last one I did I decided to use my orbital the whole time through all grits which makes it hard to assess at each step but progress is quick. The end product is very shiny but does have some minor swirl marks left over. Just curious what yours is like up close.
Benton, PA
