(Topic ID: 151401)
Linked Games
Firepower
Williams, 1980
Topic Gallery
Beauharnois
Overland Park, KS
Quoted from beatmaster:next part... this mutherfucker.... oh man won't be easy.
This is what I would do. It should fit fine.
Update: This is the one I was looking for. Kerry makes the best parts.
https://mantispinball.com/product/misc-receiver-with-spring/
He talks about it on his facebook page.
funny thing is i saw it on pinball life. i have to place an order soon.
i know the receiver won't be perfect but that would be around $150 cnd for something we don't see very much but i like the idea of something new.
i think i prefer putting the money on something like a chrome lockdown bar or something similar.
what do you guys think?
Quoted from beatmaster:funny thing is i saw it on pinball life. i have to place an order soon.
i know the receiver won't be perfect but that would be around $150 cnd for something we don't see very much but i like the idea of something new.
i think i prefer putting the money on something like a chrome lockdown bar or something similar.
what do you guys think?
I think you should clean it up the best you can then prime and paint THEN put this on top, Titan Lockbar Receiver Finisher. I have one on my Jackbot and it looks great and it's tough too so you won't have to worry about taking the paint of the top of the receiver. If I were you I'd round over all the sharp edges so the paint lays nice over them. 
You would probably have to send them a picture of your receiver to make sure they have one of that design.
I didn't see the progress you had already made when I posted the links for the repros.
If you hadn't turned it around as well as you have, I would have suggested finding a better one locally that would clean up easier and save the money.
But based on how well you have been able to clean that one up, combined with the fact you never see it, I'd live with the one you have and save even more money.
i like that idea paul, i think i'm gonna do the best i can and go from there.
the bigger side is against the cab so we won't see that side, obviously i won't buff that side.
i'm gonna sand the top side as much as i can and buff it out, i can always find a similar material to put on top.
Quoted from MikeO:I didn't see the progress you had already made when I posted the links for the repros.
If you hadn't turned it around as well as you have, I would have suggested finding a better one locally that would clean up easier and save the money.
But based on how well you have been able to clean that one up, combined with the fact you never see it, I'd live with the one you have and save even more money.
thanks for the infos man, i found some cool things on mantis website.
Quoted from beatmaster:thanks, i'm curious to see the result.
The first picture is how rusty. I sanded, used evaporust...I even used a spiral wire brush on a drill...the stuff was practically impervious. I finally got it off, but the surface was just too far gone. So, At the suggestion of someone else here, I bought the chrome wrap. For $10, it was a no-brainer.
IMG_2318 (resized).JPGIMG_3950 (resized).JPGIMG_3951 (resized).JPG
Quoted from swinks:where are those lockdown bar decals available at?
https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=133
finally, good news. made a phone call about the airbrush on the cabinet and backbox.
i'm supposed to have pictures of the progress tomorrow (crossing fingers). can't wait!
Quoted from beatmaster:finally, good news. made a phone call about the airbrush on the cabinet and backbox.
i'm supposed to have pictures of the progress tomorrow (crossing fingers). can't wait!
I gotta see um.
Lockdown Bar Receiver = done.
99.9% of the rust is gone. new brass screws (polished).
buffing on the visible top part only, since one side is against the cab and we don't really see the other side.
Still few dents (too deep) but much much better, very happy with the result.
FP lockdown bar receiver (before after) (resized).jpg
Quoted from beatmaster:Lockdown Bar Receiver = done.
99.9% of the rust is gone. new brass screws (polished).
buffing on the visible top part only, since one side is against the cab and we don't really see the other side.
Still few dents (too deep) but much much better, very happy with the result.
Super job as usual Bob. Are you going to put some clear on the side facing the wood to protect from rusting again?
Quoted from MustangPaul:Super job as usual Bob. Are you going to put some clear on the side facing the wood to protect from rusting again?
thanks paul, nope, it shouldn't rust anytime soon since there won't be any spill of any kind, not saying it will never rust.
i did my playboy years ago and still look perfect.
Quoted from dzorbas:That looks pretty cool! Very nice!
Quoted from swinks:great work on the lockdown and the backbox is looking great
Quoted from MustangPaul:Oh man that bb is looking soooooo good.
thanks guys.
the lockdown bar receiver was a pita, not sure i'll do that again.
Quoted from beatmaster:thanks guys.
the lockdown bar receiver was a pita, not sure i'll do that again.
That statement says a lot. If the Mantis repro was readily available would you have purchased it instead were you to have the need again?
Quoted from MikeO:That statement says a lot. If the Mantis repro was readily available would you have purchased it instead were you to have the need again?
good question, probably depending on what look i'm looking for. make it polished stainless steel, absolutely but will probably cost a lot more.
i was about 50% done so might as well finish it and i like the challenge.
no doubt, mantis have a good product for anyone making a restoration, i wouldn't be surprised getting one in the future for a project.
Eastwood has some filler that will stand up to the oven temp for powder coating, I bought some years ago but never used it.
Quoted from La_Porta:Good thing you aren’t going to Pintastic...you’d blow my FP out of the water!
it's only 6-7 hours away, i'd probably be working on that weekend anyway.
Quoted from beatmaster:lockdown bar = done (about 4 hours from start to finish).
Amazing job! That is going to be one fine machine when you're done.
How is your boardset? Have you gone through those yet? It would be good to do all the bulletproofing to them and the updates. Also adding the two extra fuses at the inputs to the bridges. I had to make a tool to fix all the .156" connectors on mine except for the 40 pin which was all replaced.
Quoted from Robotworkshop:Amazing job! That is going to be one fine machine when you're done.
How is your boardset? Have you gone through those yet? It would be good to do all the bulletproofing to them and the updates. Also adding the two extra fuses at the inputs to the bridges. I had to make a tool to fix all the .156" connectors on mine except for the 40 pin which was all replaced.
thanks,
well the game was working fine except one switch, i'll know near the end of the restoration. yeah i heard about the 2 extra fuses, gonna have to look into that.
Quoted from beatmaster:lockdown bar = done (about 4 hours from start to finish).
Who needs chrome with that kind of result. I'll send you mine so you can do it to it. 
Quoted from beatmaster:lockdown bar = done (about 4 hours from start to finish).
Okay, that's just sick. There's something wrong with you. Don't you have anything better to do with your time?
Can you post a tutorial video on how to polish like you do? These before and after pics are mind bending! Amazing work.
Quoted from beatmaster:thanks,
well the game was working fine except one switch, i'll know near the end of the restoration. yeah i heard about the 2 extra fuses, gonna have to look into that.
Attached is a picture of how I mounted them in my Blackout. It should be similar to your Firepower. I centered them with the bolt for the backbox. It is an easy update. Just add the two fuse holders (with labels) and make a couple jumper wires to go back to the bridges. The one wire you pull off each bridge should reach those fuse holders without extending them.
Quoted from MustangPaul:Who needs chrome with that kind of result. I'll send you mine so you can do it to it.
thanks paul, knowing me i'll probably get a few chrome pieces.
keep your metal.... loll. I still have a lot to do, when i'm done i'll probably have an indigestion.
Quoted from dzorbas:Okay, that's just sick. There's something wrong with you. Don't you have anything better to do with your time?
well yes, i'm probably crazy! i was supposed to go on vacation but girlfriend can't so a lot of free time, on vacation until 24th of february, after that another month, maybe more before high season kicks in.
Quoted from mrm_4:Can you post a tutorial video on how to polish like you do? These before and after pics are mind bending! Amazing work.
maybe not a video but i'll try to do something.
Quoted from Robotworkshop:Attached is a picture of how I mounted them in my Blackout. It should be similar to your Firepower. I centered them with the bolt for the backbox. It is an easy update. Just add the two fuse holders (with labels) and make a couple jumper wires to go back to the bridges. The one wire you pull off each bridge should reach those fuse holders without extending them.
thanks for the pic and infos, definitely a good thing.
Quoted from kuelman:Damm.... that lock out bar looks awesome how the hell did you achieve that outcome?
a lot of sanding and buffing.
Here's the rundown;
(the key) i started to sand the lockdown bar with a 100 grit sand paper, next 180 (i might use a wheel on this one), 280, 320, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1200 all that always in the same direction, always.
Buffing, i also like to use a power drill with buffing wheels, it gives me a better control in general and in tight spot.
The thing with stainless steel because of the texture it takes a lot of time, i can spend 15 - 20 minutes with a 100 grit sand paper alone, same for 180, as you go up it becomes smoother so it's a lot easier, at 600 it starts to shine, at 1000 it's pretty smooth, 1200 you remove all the fine lines (before that for the bigger ones). most of it by hand (a lot of time and elbow grease).
buffing,
good buffing wheels and paste.
i always use the same wheel with the same color (green for stainless steel), another to remove left overs and another wheel for final buffing (depending on the area i might switch between size or shape).
i always (most of the time, depending on the piece) buff in the same direction.
it's not easy but after a few pieces you get the idea, don't stay too long in the same spot, apply just enough paste on the wheel etc...
- i already the did 100 and 180 on the rear glass channel tonight, should be done tomorrow.
Quoted from beatmaster:a lot of sanding and buffing.
Here's the rundown;
(the key) i started to sand the lockdown bar with a 100 grid sand paper, next 180 (i might use a wheel on this one), 280, 320, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1200 all that always in the same direction, always.
Buffing, i also like to use a power drill with buffing wheels, it gives me a better control in general and in tight spot.
The thing with stainless steel because of the texture it takes a lot of time, i can spend 15 - 20 minutes with a 100 grid sand paper alone, same for 180, as you go up it becomes smoother so it's a lot easier, at 600 it starts to shine, at 1000 it's pretty smooth, 1200 you remove all the fine lines (before that for the bigger ones). most of it by hand (a lot of time and elbow grease).
buffing,
good buffing wheels and paste.
i always use the same wheel with the same color (green for stainless steel), another to remove left overs and another wheel for final buffing (depending on the area i might switch between size or shape).
i always (most of the time, depending on the piece) buff in the same direction.
it's not easy but after a few pieces you get the idea, don't stay too long in the same spot, apply just enough paste on the wheel etc...
- i already the did 100 and 180 on the rear glass channel tonight, should be done tomorrow.
As everyone is saying, very nice result. I have done three lock down bars and tried something different each time. Most sources say to change angles with every grit to be able to see that the new grit has removed all marks from the previous grit. No matter what I do I wind up with some hazing. From a photo distance like yours mine would look pretty similar. Up close you can see features in the shine. The last one I did I decided to use my orbital the whole time through all grits which makes it hard to assess at each step but progress is quick. The end product is very shiny but does have some minor swirl marks left over. Just curious what yours is like up close.
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:As everyone is saying, very nice result. I have done three lock down bars and tried something different each time. Most sources say to change angles with every grit to be able to see that the new grit has removed all marks from the previous grit. No matter what I do I wind up with some hazing. From a photo distance like yours mine would look pretty similar. Up close you can see features in the shine. The last one I did I decided to use my orbital the whole time through all grits which makes it hard to assess at each step but progress is quick. The end product is very shiny but does have some minor swirl marks left over. Just curious what yours is like up close.
thanks!
well, you're not wrong with sanding in an angle, very true to go fast but will leave marks. i've tried all kinds of ways, this is the best way i found for myself and still it's not perfect, i doubt i can make it shine like a mirror, it's close but will never replace chrome, stainless steel is a pita to work with because of the texture.
i know there's some pieces i won't try like side rails, it's big, hard to manipulate, can bent easily, that's when i go chrome.
Forgot to ask it sounded like you used a wheel for a lot of them where did you get 600 and finer grit wheels? Or were those by hand?
On a Xenon I decided to polish the side rails, wow what a ton of work, Very shiny but plenty of haze to them.
Started with the wheel (only on 180) and finished by hand, about 30 minutes for 180 and already smooth.
you can see the metal dust on the counter.
all the other grit about 20 minutes each, all by hand.
at 180
rear glass channel 180 (wheel) (resized).JPG
rear glass channel 180 -1 (resized).JPG
rear glass channel 180 (resized).JPG
at 280
glass channel 280 (resized).JPG
glass channel 280-2 (resized).JPG
at 320
glass channel 320 (resized).JPG
glass channel 320-2 (resized).JPG
at 400
glass channel 400 (resized).JPG
glass channel 400-2 (resized).JPG
at 600
glass channel 600 (resized).JPG
glass channel 600-2 (resized).JPG
at 800
glass channel 800 (resized).JPG
glass channel 800-2 (resized).JPG
at 1000
glass channel 1000 (resized).JPG
glass channel 1000-2 (resized).JPG
glass channel 1000-3 (resized).JPG
next buffing.
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