(Topic ID: 292180)

Firepower Power Supply Rebuild - Weird result

By falkenbd

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 9 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by G-P-E
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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#1 2 years ago

Picked up a firepower a while back. Getting around to getting it working, no boot, did the 40 pin and realized power supply caps were bad shape. decided to start at the beginning.

Went ahead with rebuild of power supply, trying to test with no connectors (besides power input) hooked up.

Replaced 4 caps, upgraded the 2 rectifier diodes and replaced the 5V voltage regulator and reflowed all the connectors. (mostly based on http://pinball.flippers.info/system6repairpart3.asp & other likely guides/advice around on system 6 machines)

Testing the power supply with nothing hooked up. I get 12v where I should, and 100v where I should on the output connectors

Had odd results, getting .6-.7v on the 5v connector pins. Tested it with the board unhooked and getting the same on the output pin of the voltage regulator (backside). Tried it with a different voltage regulator, same thing.

2 different brand new LM323K same problem. What am I missing?

#2 2 years ago

<deleted>

#3 2 years ago

Make sure you have identified the earth point correctly. Also ensure you are measuring AC at the correct points and DC at others.

#4 2 years ago

Took this image from another thread.

Across bottom of D7 and D8 20v AC

Ground strap to fuse F5: 13v DC

Top of C16: 13v DC

Top of C17: .7v DC (this should be 5v as the output from the regulator)

Same result if I measure on the backside of the board, 13v on the input leg, .7v on the output side. Same result measured across pins 3J6-7 (5v) and 3J6-11(GRD)

D7 and D8 were already replaced with beefier (Diode - P600G 6A 400 PIV) C7 C11 C13 and C15 were also just replaced with new caps.

I've tried 2 different replacement LM323k and get .66 or .7 vdc.

Is there a reliable way to test them outside the board? What do I try next? A 3rd brand new regulator?

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#5 2 years ago

323 regulators are out of production and have been for a long time .... did you try the original one first before starting your replacements? Often they work fine despite being 40+ years old.

Post picture of the 323's you're putting in, likely they are fake unless you're getting them from a reliable source.... the only one I would trust at this point is greatplainselectronics, and they are sold out.

#6 2 years ago

2 different pinball vendors. Not Gpe. I had only tried the original before recapping. Will go back and try it again.

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#7 2 years ago

With all the work you are doing - consider this too - it'll allow you to remove the heat-sink all together...

https://www.ezsbc.com/product/psu5/

#8 2 years ago

Put the original back in and guess what. 5v working again.

Time to start replacing connectors with trifurcon.

#9 2 years ago

I don't know what the "-MIL" means on the part number for that part (it certainly isn't for "military") but I have seen lots of complaints for parts that are marked with this. Seems that this is yet another chinese wonderbatch infiltrating ebay.

The EZSBC is a good solution to this problem but if you got it working, leave it be. Also, the LM323K regulators are not yet obsolete and are still listed on their "active" list of components. You can buy brand new ones from the manufacturer at $37 each with a 1000 piece min buy (yeow!). "Bargain" price of $65 each from Mouser. Yeah, go to EZSBC if you need to replace.

Also, let your source for these know that these parts are questionable. Give them heads up so they can change their source.

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