(Topic ID: 266512)

Firepower pop bumper continually firing

By creativenuts

4 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 48 posts
  • 13 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by uphamj
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

Inkedunnamed (3)_LI (resized).jpg
unnamed (2) (resized).jpg
Inkedunnamed (1)_LI (resized).jpg
unnamed (4) (resized).jpg
unnamed (3) (resized).jpg
441935802.png
cut wires (resized).jpg
unnamed (1) (resized).jpg
unnamed (resized).jpg
0AD41982-9AB2-40F7-80D0-43CFC4DE4A7A (resized).jpeg

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider schwaggs.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

#8 4 years ago
Quoted from creativenuts:

Ive disconnected that coil and now none of the pop bumpers work. also the kicker for the ball retainer at the top doesnt work either.
makes me wonder if the new power board is causing problems.

One of the lugs on the coil had 2 red wires wires. That is the power side and they are wired from one coil to the next. If you just cut the 2 red wires off the coil, you broke the power supply chain to the downstream coils which will stop them from working.

Connect the wires back up to the coil.

Check the problem still exists.

Remove J13 from the driver board. This is the special switch input connector (fires the pops, slings, etc).

If the coil still locks on, you have a problem with the driver board.

If the coil does not lock on, the problem is in the trigger switch or wiring.

#10 4 years ago
Quoted from XavierTheXMan:

Following. I'm have the same issue with Top Right Jet bumper. I cut the blue/orange wire and I have now issues with game booting up. It plays fine. The board was just serviced too and never had that issue of locking up. I'm going to change the coil out and add some new parts to the jet bumper and see if that fixes the issue. Please share if you are able to fix this on your machine. Btw it's J12 that you need to unplug for those bumpers.

J13 is the switch input to the driver board for special solenoids.
J12 is the drive.

When trying to troubleshooting a locked coil, disconnecting the switch input connector, J13 can isolate the problem to the board or the switches. Disconnecting J12 only disconnects the drive transistor from the solenoids stopping the coil from locking on but really doesn't tell you anything.

#23 4 years ago
Quoted from creativenuts:

so, Im trying to find a replacement transistor . I should be looking for FQP 13N1OL should I ? or TIP 120 (or is it the same thing).
Im in the UK so hoping to find somewhere at least in Europe. Im only managing to find transistors for sale on Ebay so far (and usually delivered from China).[quoted image]

I would replace it with another 13N10L MOSFET.

Before you do, check the resistance of that coil. It should be around 5.3 ohms. If you get zero or close to it, reverse the polarity of the meter leads and measure again.

If the coil resistance is good, make sure to replace the diode on that coil and make sure it is installed in the correct orientation. I suspect the diode is bad and what killed the MOSFET.

#34 3 years ago
Quoted from creativenuts:

but seeing as you are there.... can you tell me where to start when replacing the coil, ive done it before about 5 years ago and it was a bit trial and error then , but totally forgotten now!
is it the screws at A or the nuts at B? thanks[quoted image]

Next transistor you need to remove, try cutting the body of the transistor off the legs first. Then you can desolder and remove one leg at at time.

Remove the 3 nuts that hold the coil bracket to the bottom of the playfield. be careful to catch the spring on the plunger as you remove the bracket.

Once that is removed, you remove screws "A" and you can remove the old coil and mount the new coil and sleeve in place.

Reverse above (remember the spring) to reassemble.

#37 3 years ago

Oh, one other thing:

Make sure your new coil has a diode installed. Pay careful attention to the lugs you solder the wires - Double red wire (power supply) goes to the lug with the banded side of the diode.

#44 3 years ago

Awesome! Congratulations on the fix!

Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
From: $ 399.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
 
$ 15.00
Playfield - Protection
UpKick Pinball
 
From: $ 90.00
Tools
Pincoder Store
 
1,400 (Firm)
Machine - For Sale
Benton, PA
From: $ 5.99
Playfield - Plastics
The Pinball Scientist
 
Trade
Machine - For Trade
Washington Court House, OH
$ 3.00
Tools
Nezzy's Pinball Prints
 
$ 27.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
 
From: $ 1.00
Playfield - Other
Rocket City Pinball
 
$ 129.00
Cabinet Parts
Bob's Pinball Stuff
 
$ 12.50
Lighting - Led
RoyGBev Pinball
 
$ 42.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
 
From: $ 5.00
Cabinet - Other
UpKick Pinball
 
$ 11.00
Electronics
Yorktown Arcade Supply
 
$ 170.00
Displays
Digipinball Shop
 
From: $ 11.00
2,900 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Hawesville, KY
600 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Casper, WY
From: $ 9.00
Hey modders!
Your shop name here

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider schwaggs.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/firepower-pop-bumper-continually-firing?tu=schwaggs and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.