(Topic ID: 284959)

Firepower II - can't get new game to start

By crazyidahoan

3 years ago


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  • 21 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by Waxon
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 3 years ago

I have a Firepower II machine. It was working fine and now I can't get a new game to start. I'm a total newbie when it comes to pinball ownership, so thanks for your help in advance. I have tried going through the diagnostics tests and when I get to the switch test it shows the #9 (outhole) switch is closed. If I pull the pinballs out then the switch is now open again. I'm stumped as to where to go from here. I did not run into any other diagnostic errors when cycling through everything. I also checked the CPU board and sound board self-tests and they all passed.
I've seen some things online about the trough switch, but I'm not sure it that's the issue since it seems to recognize the ball by showing the switch is closed. The previous owner mentioned this happened every now and again and showed me a wire that would get caught sometimes under the #10 switch (right ball ramp). I was able to successfully get it working a time or two using this trick, but unfortunately that doesn't seem to work anymore. And it was pretty obvious when that wire would catch. Now the wire is not caught. Thanks,

#2 3 years ago

Does the solenoid test fire each of the solenoids correctly?

If the balls aren't getting kicked from the outhole to the left & right ball ramps (switches 10+11), it won't start a game. If the balls are sitting on those 2 switches but they aren't coming up in the switch test, you'll need to take a closer look at those switches under the playfield to determine if they need to be adjusted or if a wire or diode broke off one of them or something else. Do all the other switches on the playfield work when activating them in switch test?

#3 3 years ago

Quick thought did you try adding a credit? I can’t remember if free play is a physical switch on the board or a menu setting...if your battery is dead it will boot up to a default setting which probably has free play off.

Quoted from crazyidahoan:

I have a Firepower II machine. It was working fine and now I can't get a new game to start. I'm a total newbie when it comes to pinball ownership, so thanks for your help in advance. I have tried going through the diagnostics tests and when I get to the switch test it shows the #9 (outhole) switch is closed. If I pull the pinballs out then the switch is now open again. I'm stumped as to where to go from here. I did not run into any other diagnostic errors when cycling through everything. I also checked the CPU board and sound board self-tests and they all passed.
I've seen some things online about the trough switch, but I'm not sure it that's the issue since it seems to recognize the ball by showing the switch is closed. The previous owner mentioned this happened every now and again and showed me a wire that would get caught sometimes under the #10 switch (right ball ramp). I was able to successfully get it working a time or two using this trick, but unfortunately that doesn't seem to work anymore. And it was pretty obvious when that wire would catch. Now the wire is not caught. Thanks,

#4 3 years ago
Quoted from frunch:

Does the solenoid test fire each of the solenoids correctly?
If the balls aren't getting kicked from the outhole to the left & right ball ramps (switches 10+11), it won't start a game. If the balls are sitting on those 2 switches but they aren't coming up in the switch test, you'll need to take a closer look at those switches under the playfield to determine if they need to be adjusted or if a wire or diode broke off one of them or something else. Do all the other switches on the playfield work when activating them in switch test?

I double checked and all the switched 9, 10, and 11 work when a ball is in that place. But when I do the solenoid test nothing happens. it cycles through 1-25, but none of the solenoids pulse. I'm assuming this is where my issue is. I checked all the fuses (based on my newbie knowledge) and they all look good. Any ideas as to what could be causing none of the solenoids to fire?

#5 3 years ago
Quoted from swillie:

Quick thought did you try adding a credit? I can’t remember if free play is a physical switch on the board or a menu setting...if your battery is dead it will boot up to a default setting which probably has free play off.

I double checked to make sure it is set to free play and it is. I also tried added credits so I know the credit button works. My machine no longer has a battery but has an NVRAM.

#6 3 years ago

Maybe the two ball switches could be the problem, if some of two switches don´t detect right the ball, don´t going to start the game

#7 3 years ago
Quoted from Waxon:

Maybe the two ball switches could be the problem, if some of two switches don´t detect right the ball, don´t going to start the game

all three ball switches 9, 10, and 11 detect the ball, but unfortunately the outhole solenoid is not firing (technically none of the solenoids are firing in the test diagnostics)

#8 3 years ago

For the solenoids not to fire in test seems like it might be independent issue from the game not starting. Did you check all the fuses? Did you check to see if the solenoids have power going to them?

#9 3 years ago

Oh, I did not notice that this problem was already mentioned, it seems that you have the same thing that my machine had, it is easy to fix this, you just have to overheat the pins of the connector of the switches on the driver board, or you can change the resistors from 0 ohms For jumpers, it is the same although I like more how the jumpers look, that solved my problem that was the same, it will also solve that other switches do not respond, if this did not work, it may be that the diode of the switches is reversed, although I don't think this is the case

#10 3 years ago

Here the resistors or bridges are the W16 AL W9, as I said, make a jumper or put the resistance of 0 ohms, then reheat the column drive and inputs switch pins, obviously from below

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#11 3 years ago

analyzing the answer, why did the fuse blow in the first place? I hope some cable is not testing this or making some electrical short, it may even be that the lampholders of the pop bumpers are rubbing with the metal that holds their coils

#12 3 years ago
Quoted from Waxon:

analyzing the answer, why did the fuse blow in the first place? I hope some cable is not testing this or making some electrical short, it may even be that the lampholders of the pop bumpers are rubbing with the metal that holds their coils

to my knowledge none of the fuses have blown.

#13 3 years ago

apparently, they are usually misleading, try to change the F2 fuse shown in the image, it is 250 volts and 2.5 amps, it does not cost that expensive, the package is 15 Mexican pesos

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#14 3 years ago

You can buy it in steren!

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#15 3 years ago

Although, as I said before, check that each coil has its respective diodes (they avoid sparks) and that the cables or bases of the coils are isolated from lamps or directly from ground or something else that may cause the short.

#16 3 years ago
Quoted from Waxon:

apparently, they are usually misleading, try to change the F2 fuse shown in the image, it is 250 volts and 2.5 amps, it does not cost that expensive, the package is 15 Mexican pesos
[quoted image]

Waxon You totally rock! I just pulled that fuse out and it does look like it is blown. I'm going to buy another one and give it a try. Thanks to everyone for your input.

#17 3 years ago
Quoted from crazyidahoan:

waxon ¡ Eres totalmente genial ! Acabo de sacar ese fusible y parece que está fundido. Voy a comprarme otro y probarlo. Gracias a todos por sus aportes.

It's good that it worked, just that yes, check that everything is correct to avoid more shorts

#18 3 years ago

Good catch on the blown fuse at F2! Out of curiosity, what type of fuse was installed there? If you look very carefully at the metal caps of the fuse, you should see an amperage rating. *Hopefully* it was a 2.5 amp as it was designed for. Sometimes people will install fuses with higher amp ratings to "fix" the fuse blowing which is dangerous and can lead to bigger problems (burning components, potentially start a fire, etc)...

Looking at the schematics, it's a 2.5 amp slow-blow fuse, often labeled MDL or time-delay. Note that there are regular "fast-blow" fuses which are often labeled AGC. You *don't* want them for F2, you want the MDL/slow blow type. Also--you want the 1.25" size fuses (also known as 3AG)--make sure you don't get the smaller ones, they won't fit. Here's a link where you can buy some from Great Plains Electronics:

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=3AG-T-2-1%2F2

I'd recommend buying at least 5, maybe consider 10 though. It's very possible something caused the fuse to blow...it's not likely for the fuse to blow for no reason (though it can happen occasionally). You'll want to have spares on hand just in case it continues to blow fuses at F2 while you work out the source of the problem.

While you're at it, it's a good idea to consider picking up a basic multimeter for checking fuses and voltages etc. Sometimes a fuse can look blown and be good or look good and be blown, and a meter will easily help make that determination. We can help you learn to use it. It's a very handy tool for pinball troubleshooting!

Once you finally install F2, listen very carefully when you turn on the game. You want to see if you hear a solenoid activating and locking on. It's a fairly common issue to have solenoid lock on, causing the fuse to blow. It could be one of the pop bumpers, slingshots, kickouts, you need to pay close attention when you turn the game on because it may blow the fuse within a few seconds.

Do any of the solenoids appear burnt under the playfield?

#19 3 years ago
Quoted from frunch:

¡Buen agarre en el fusible fundido en F2! Por curiosidad, ¿qué tipo de fusible se instaló allí? Si observa con mucho cuidado las tapas metálicas del fusible, debería ver una clasificación de amperaje. * Con suerte * era un 2.5 amperios para el que fue diseñado. A veces, la gente instala fusibles con clasificaciones de amperaje más altas para "arreglar" el fusible fundido, lo cual es peligroso y puede provocar problemas mayores (componentes quemados, potencialmente iniciar un incendio, etc.) ...
Mirando los esquemas, es un fusible de acción lenta de 2.5 amperios, a menudo etiquetado como MDL o retardado. Tenga en cuenta que existen fusibles regulares de "acción rápida" que a menudo se denominan AGC. Usted * no * los quiere para F2, quiere el tipo MDL / lento. Además, si desea los fusibles de 1.25 "(también conocidos como 3AG), asegúrese de no obtener los más pequeños, no encajarán. Aquí hay un enlace donde puede comprar algunos de Great Plains Electronics:
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=3AG-T-2-1%2F2
Recomendaría comprar al menos 5, aunque quizás considere 10. Es muy posible que algo haya causado que el fusible se fundiera ... no es probable que el fusible se funda sin motivo (aunque puede suceder ocasionalmente). Querrá tener repuestos a mano en caso de que continúe fundiendo fusibles en F2 mientras averigua la fuente del problema.
Mientras lo hace, es una buena idea considerar tomar un multímetro básico para verificar fusibles y voltajes, etc. A veces, un fusible puede verse quemado y estar bien o verse bien y estar quemado, y un medidor ayudará fácilmente a tomar esa determinación. . Podemos ayudarlo a aprender a usarlo. ¡Es una herramienta muy útil para solucionar problemas de pinball!
Una vez que finalmente instale F2, escuche con mucha atención cuando encienda el juego. Quieres ver si escuchas un solenoide activándose y bloqueándose. Es un problema bastante común tener el bloqueo del solenoide activado, lo que hace que el fusible se queme. Podría ser uno de los parachoques, tirachinas, patadas, debes prestar mucha atención cuando enciendes el juego porque puede quemar el fusible en unos pocos segundos.
¿Alguno de los solenoides parece quemado debajo del campo de juego?

For me, my fuse burned very rarely, although when I shorted a coil it exploded, it took at least 7 seconds for the fuse to explode, Although if a coil sticks again, it doesn't take two seconds and the fuse blows, do you know why it happens that after having exploded so much, why it is now faster?

#20 3 years ago

Thanks everyone! I got the new fuse and it is back up and running. I've figured out how to use my multimeter (at least enough to check fuses). I have another burned out fuse. I also pulled out all of my fuses and found several that were not the same as the specs. I will be ordering more fuses this week to replace all of them to the correct specs.

#21 3 years ago
Quoted from crazyidahoan:

¡Gracias a todos! Conseguí el nuevo fusible y volvió a funcionar. He descubierto cómo usar mi multímetro (al menos lo suficiente para comprobar los fusibles). Tengo otro fusible quemado. También saqué todos mis fusibles y encontré varios que no eran iguales a las especificaciones. Pediré más fusibles esta semana para reemplazarlos todos con las especificaciones correctas.

Always remember to put the exact fuse, this so as not to force the system, it is good that you have learned to use your voltmeter

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