Pinwiki will have some troubleshooting progression. The two LEDs should come on then go out. Until you get that, the board isn't booting, it's locked up.

please ensure that the following on the powerboard.

1.Check for correct voltage with header removed.

2.Remove the PCB and resolder the connector
3. Check the wires and push them into the connector.

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When was it serviced, recently or in the 90s?

Do you have original boards?

Yes, please post some decent pictures of the boards and check for the voltages that drocelot suggested.

Those look great!

Measure the voltages on the test points on the CPU board. Need to see if the power supply voltages are making it reliably to the CPU board.

Remove the screws on the driver board (lower board in your first picture). Carefully pull the 2 boards apart and press them back together. The long white translucent connector between the CPU and driver boards is the "40 pin connector", notorious for causing issues. Pulling it apart and putting it back together cleans the contact points and may be the cause of the problem.

Are the contact points in the battery holder rusted or corroded? They look rusted in the picture but it is hard to tell.

Yep, that’s right. The tiny metal studs are the test points. You can put the negative meter lead on the ground braid.

Did you have NVRAM installed? Can't reliably tell from the pics of your boards. But if do not have fresh batteries in that battery holder the game will not boot.

The game should boot to audits without batteries. Static numbers in the displays.

You can try and do the cheat boot, just in case the problem is with your displays. With the coin door open, turn the game on. Then very fast, turn the power switch off and back on. Attract mode should start (playfield inserts flashing). You may have to try it several times to get it to work. Based on your original description (both LEDs on), I don't think this will work.

With the game on, press the diagnostic button on the CPU board and tell us what the LEDs do.

Once you get it booting you will need to look at these areas.

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Great game! Best luck getting it going!

You need to figure out why the voltage at the test points is so low. 4.7v is much too low to boot reliably. I think you are on the right track with reflowing the solder to the header pins. Make sure you do it on all the boards (PS, sound, driver, cpu)

In all the videos by tnt, Todd mentions that the 2 top screws in the row of the 40 pin connector, shouldn’t be used to hold down the board. Not sure if that’s causing your issues, but he has stated Williams always advised to leave those 2 out for system 6/7.

Just quickly scanning here.. If I may chime in.. I agree 4.7 volts is a bit too small for reliable operation, so that should be tracked down.

In addition to that you can use my test ROMs to help you verify your CPU, RAM, and 5101 chips as well as everything else to make help you get your game healthy again. You can download and use them for free here: http://pincoder.ca

You will need at least one 2816 or 2716 eprom chip and a programmer to run the tests, but they are better diagnostics that the built-in ones that come with the game. Specifically, the Williams RAM and CMOS tests are known to give false positives.

In addition, you can disconnect and remove the driver board and power it on to see if it's causing you any grief (ie voltage drops). You should still see normal activity on the displays. re-check the voltage from 4.7 and see if it has changed at all.

Maybe cut off the chip I circled earlier. With a hole blown out of it like that it may be causing a power drain on the 5 volt line.

Looks like it's resetting shortly after booting up. check your reset circuit and the power quality coming into the MPU board.

I had somewhat similar issues w/ my Firepower when I first got it. I replaced all the headers and connectors that make up the 40 pin connection and swapped out the "Scanbe" sockets with SIP sockets. I replaced all the capacitors on the power supply too. I never did isolate and correct the problem preventing it from booting up and just threw in the towel by buying a Rottendog board. Still no regrets with that decision. The game has been rock solid since. Just an option to keep in mind or find someone that can repair both your MPU/driver boards if you get fed up. That's where I ended up; I was really hoping to troubleshoot and revive the original boards (no battery corrosion and they looked barely used) but in the end, the Rottendog solution worked for me.

I've repaired a ton of these boards. What you see happens all the time. It is usually 40 pin and scanbe sockets with the occasional rom and processor chips gone bad. I have a lot of boards to play with to problem solve but for you, buying a rottendog or working board set is a no brainer. These boards are a total time suck. I haven't had a problem fixing them all but you need test equipment. So unless your looking to enjoy years of Board repair it's better to just buy good ones. I would think you could exchange yours for a good set for around 200. Most likely if you reset all the socketed chips and the 40 pin connection it will work but not for long. Hans at http://www.siegecraft.us sells everything except the probe. He also sells a board that eliminates the need to use the 6 Rom sockets as well. Since your 40 pin looks clean there is a good chance you could get it to work by pulling the roms and putting in the Williams Single EPROM adapter from Siegecraft for 20.00.
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