(Topic ID: 174968)

Firepower Help

By PinDude007

7 years ago


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  • 54 posts
  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 years ago by vec-tor
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There are 54 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 7 years ago

Hi All,

I'm looking for some guidance on a Firepower MPU. I have it removed from the game and powered up with an old PC power supply providing 5vdc and 12vdc. I also just purchased Leons test ROM and have that installed.

When powering up, both LED's turn on once them off. They stay off after that, no blinking as expected. When pressing the diagnostic switch, the LED's do nothing.

Also, I connected a LED to Pin 15 of the CPU and it blinks quickly, but nothing from the LED's on the board. It appears that the board is booting up enough to turn off the LED's, but not completely running. Any ideas what I should check next?

#2 7 years ago

Have you reviewed the instructions for the Leon Rom? http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Leon_Borre_Repairing_Williams_System_3-6_CPU_Boards

In particular this part "for model 6 make the jumper between the upper sides of R27 and C23"

When running the board will blink the leds on and off in a steady rhythm. You don't say so but I assume you're testing without the driver board connected?

#3 7 years ago

Thanks for the quick reply. Yes, I've removed the MPU board from the machine and am testing it without the driver board. I connected 12vdc to pin 9 of 1J2 which should accomplish the same thing as the jumper.

A quick update, I was checking the outputs of the PIA and pins 2 through 17 were all low and not pulsing. When I would power up the board, I would see each output flash high briefly then stay low. Which makes sense since the LED's would flash on then stay off and makes me think the PIA is ok. The control LED connected to Pin 15 of the CPU is flashing and there is a lot of activity on the input pins to the PIA.

Well now the odd part, I walked away to grab some lunch and when I came back, the LED's were flashing. I pressed the diagnostic switch and it passed the memory test.

So it looks like there must be a back connection somewhere. I already checked for cracked solder joints and don't see anymore. To help narrow it down, what would cause the PIA to set all the outputs low, while the CPU is running ok? Could this also be a flaky chip?

#4 7 years ago

I would replace your CPU and PIA sockets, if you haven't already

#5 7 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

I would replace your CPU and PIA sockets, if you haven't already

Where is a good place to buy them? I want to make sure I buy good quality ones. It also looks like I'll need a new switch matrix PIA, I was doing some checking on my driver board and it's no good. Any suggestions on where to get those as well?

#6 7 years ago

I buy my sockets from digikey as part of my regular electronics orders, but they don't have pias. They're getting hard to find. Big daddy might have some. There's a pinsiders who sells them but I can't think of the name offhand

#7 7 years ago

Not sure if he has what you are looking for but try Great Plains - https://www.greatplainselectronics.com

#9 7 years ago

Ok, new problem. When I power up the MPU the test LED at pin 15 of the CPU blinks sporadically. Fast, slow, no rhythm and locks up occasionally. Any idea's where to start? I have the MPU on the bench completely removed from the backbox and driver board. I have all the ROMs and Cmos removed and only Leon's test ROM installed. Also, when it's in the machine with the game ROMs (with Fuses F2 and F3 removed), both LEDs lock on with no flashes and it repeats the word "Firepower" over and over.

#10 7 years ago
Quoted from PinDude007:

Ok, new problem. When I power up the MPU the test LED at pin 15 of the CPU blinks sporadically. Fast, slow, no rhythm and locks up occasionally. Any idea's where to start? I have the MPU on the bench completely removed from the backbox and driver board. I have all the ROMs and Cmos removed and only Leon's test ROM installed. Also, when it's in the machine with the game ROMs (with Fuses F2 and F3 removed), both LEDs lock on with no flashes and it repeats the word "Firepower" over and over.

Did you end up replacing the sockets and pias?

#11 7 years ago

Yeah, I replaced them and tested in the bench (both MPU and driver connected) and it worked great. I put it in the machine to test it out and it worked for about 10 seconds before it started saying Firepower on repeat. Now I've removed it and the MPU board is not working again.

#12 7 years ago

Had a few spare minutes and found Pin 5 of IC1 is stuck High, I believe this is supposed to pulse?

#13 7 years ago

Bump.

Does the fact that is says Firepower on repeat at power on help narrowing down where to look?

I should note that the MPU board was working on the bench, then I put it in the machine, it went into attract mode for about 10 seconds. Then the display's went out and it started saying Firepower on repeat. It no longer works on the bench after that. Is it possible something got fried?

#14 7 years ago

Sure, in pinball, it's always possible for something to blow out for no apparent reason other than to hurt your feelings.

Mine is in very similar condition as yours and it's making fun of me right in my face. So I fixed my Gorgar instead!

We need to go back to the drawing board with either the test rom procedure (that has for sure vague instructions with many IC pins to test but not providing the signals that you should see, just that they should be "correct". Not all pins are supposed to be pulsing.)

Or leave it originally populated and try to diagnose it from scratch.

Mine either fails to boot with Diag Leds = ON, OFF, ON and no displays; or LEDs ON, OFF, ON and what appears to be scrolling through the coin door diags/settings as fast as it can display them in sequence.

I also have the solenoid fuse pulled due to sticking Ball Release coil.

So, how are you going to set yours up to test and I'll do mine the same way and we can compare readings.

#15 7 years ago

Did you replace the interboard connector and ROM sockets?

#16 7 years ago
Quoted from PinDude007:

Does the fact that is says Firepower on repeat at power on help narrowing down where to look?

Probably not. That may just be a loop the sound board is stuck in. Unplug the sound board from the driver board and see if it still says it.

#17 7 years ago

Thanks for all the replies. Yes, the 40 pin interconnect has been replaced. It looks like I actually have 3 separate problems which is why I've been pulling my hair out.

1st, my test EEPROM is bad. I got fedup, so I put my game roms back in, connected the MPU and Driver board and fired it up. The LED's blinked once and turned off. I pressed the diagnostic switch and they blinked twice and went off. Looking better already.

2nd, the game repeats firepower over and over. Ill address this issue later separately

3rd, there is no blanking signal. This is the issue I need to fix first, but need some help on how to troubleshoot it. I checked Test Pin 4 on the MPU and get 0 Volts. Where to go from here?

#18 7 years ago
Quoted from PinDude007:

Where to go from here?

Check for pulses on pin 4 of IC18 (display PIA), that's the reset signal for the blanking timer

#19 7 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

Check for pulses on pin 4 of IC18 (display PIA), that's the reset signal for the blanking timer

No pulse with the probe scope, just staying low.

#20 7 years ago
Quoted from PinDude007:

No pulse with the probe scope, just staying low.

usually pins 2-5 should be strobing to run the displays. If 26-33 (data input) are strobing then either your PIA is bad or it's not being enabled properly via 21, 23-25, 35+36.

It's interesting though because you say the LEDs turned off, and they're controlled via the same output bank, which means that the PIA had to work at least once?

#21 7 years ago
Quoted from PinDude007:

Yes, the 40 pin interconnect has been replaced.

Cool, how about the ROM sockets?

#22 7 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

usually pins 2-5 should be strobing to run the displays. If 26-33 (data input) are strobing then either your PIA is bad or it's not being enabled properly via 21, 23-25, 35+36.
It's interesting though because you say the LEDs turned off, and they're controlled via the same output bank, which means that the PIA had to work at least once?

None of pins 2-5 are strobing; pins 2, 4 and 5 are stuck low, pin 3 is high. All pins 21, 23-33 and 35-36 are strobing.

Yeah, the LEDs flash on then turn off when powered on. They also flash twice and turn off when the diagnostic switch is pressed, so it seems the like PIA is working.

#23 7 years ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Cool, how about the ROM sockets?

I replaced the PIA sockets on the Driver board, but not the ROM sockets on the MPU board. Since it boots and passes diagnostics, I figured these are ok? They are RN, not Scanbe. I can order some up if that could potentially be the problem, but would also like to keep troubleshooting while waiting for them in case it doesn't solve the issue and I lose time.

#24 7 years ago

I'm just thinking that it does not appear that it is booting properly with Leon's ROM or the game ROMs. I would make sure the interboard connector (both sides) and the ROM sockets are new before chasing too many other things. If those are flakey, you end up chasing your tail.

#25 7 years ago
Quoted from PinDude007:

None of pins 2-5 are strobing; pins 2, 4 and 5 are stuck low, pin 3 is high. All pins 21, 23-33 and 35-36 are strobing.
Yeah, the LEDs flash on then turn off when powered on. They also flash twice and turn off when the diagnostic switch is pressed, so it seems the like PIA is working.

Check the IRQ signal on the CPU (pin 4). Maybe if it's not getting the signal from the timer it's never bothering to pulse the displays.

#26 7 years ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

I'm just thinking that it does not appear that it is booting properly with Leon's ROM or the game ROMs. I would make sure the interboard connector (both sides) and the ROM sockets are new before chasing too many other things. If those are flakey, you end up chasing your tail.

I'll get some ordered up

Quoted from zacaj:

Check the IRQ signal on the CPU (pin 4). Maybe if it's not getting the signal from the timer it's never bothering to pulse the displays.

CPU pin 4 is pulsing.

#27 7 years ago

I'm looking at the MPU schematic to see where to look next, but am not sure where to go. I need to better understand what makes the PIA at pin 4 generate the pulse.

I'm assuming that the CPU is working and the game ROM is loading and running. I say this because the LED's flash on then go off, and also pass the diagnostic test. Also, everything passed with Leon's test ROM.

I'm also assuming PIA at IC18 is ok since it passed with Leon's test ROM.

But, IC18 pin 4 is low instead of pulsing. If the above is correct, then I am assuming the PIA is not being "told" to generate the pulse for the blanking signal. What "tells" the PIA to generate this pulse?

#28 7 years ago

So we're getting to the limits of my experience here, so take this with a grain of salt, but:

Quoted from PinDude007:

What "tells" the PIA to generate this pulse?

The CPU gets an interrupt signal every 1ms on pin 4, which triggers it to strobe the displays, lights, etc. At that point it selects the IC18 PIA by turning its CS1/2, E, RW, etc inputs on, then sends it some data via D0-7 which should be immediately displayed on A0-7, including pin 4. Since you say that the outputs of the PIA work with the test ROM, it's probably safe to assume that, if those conditions were met, the PIA would be strobing. You've also said that all those inputs are strobing, so we know there's no failure in the bus drivers. Which means that, although the signals are getting there, they must not all be getting there in the right combination to actually enable the PIA, which means the CPU isn't sending data to the PIA (just other chips which look for a different combination of the same inputs the PIA is watching). Since the CPU is getting its trigger, that must mean either the CPU isn't watching for the trigger, or something internal isn't getting to the strobe logic.

Quoted from PinDude007:

I'm assuming that the CPU is working and the game ROM is loading and running.

This, however, I'm not sure is a valid assumption. Sadly there's no way to tell that the game ROM is actually running (well, besides the blanking signal from PIA pin 4, but that's our problem!), just that the game ROM has started at all (when it turns the lights off). The diagnostic button works by triggering an interrupt, it's not polled, so even if the game ROM is stuck somewhere and has stopped running, the button will force the CPU to jump to some other code temporarily to run the test.

Quoted from PinDude007:

Also, everything passed with Leon's test ROM.

Leon's rom is very simple, and doesn't actually test a lot of the circuitry. All it tests is the IO PIAs and the memory. It doesn't pay attention to the 1ms interrupt signal either, and doesn't use the other ROM sockets at all.

My first instinct would be that one of the other rom sockets, or the circuitry connecting them, is bad. I'm not seeing in a quick scan through the thread if you've specifically replaced all the used rom sockets, and checked for proper activity on them. You've replaced the CPU and PIA sockets, but have you done any others?

I guess it also might be possible that something on the driver board is crashing the game ROM, would it be possible to try a different driver board just to be sure?

#29 7 years ago

So this is embarrassing. I made a rookie mistake. I didn't realize that after pressing the diagnostic switch that the power needed to be reset to put it back into attract mode. I must have pressed it before measuring the blanking signal.

Once I realized the mistake, I popped it back in the machine. And it locked up. Since it worked perfectly on the bench I figured it must be the power supply. Sure enough the connector had some bad joints. I replaced it and she came to life in attract mode!!

Now it still won't start a game. I can add credits and there are 3 balls in the trough, but no game start. I ran it through the self test and the displays and lamps work great, but the solenoids will not fire. The sound solenoids 9-13? work, but none of the coils. Any ideas

#30 7 years ago

...fuse? hopefully a more normal issue and not driver board related

#31 7 years ago

Stil that pesky 40 pin?
Batteries deff in and making power? Try turning the power on and off 2 times ?

#32 7 years ago

Make sure,each batterie is making contact... and testing proper.. 4.5 I belive at least?

#33 7 years ago
Quoted from Milltown:

Make sure,each batterie is making contact... and testing proper.. 4.5 I belive at least?

Total for all 3 batteries...

#34 7 years ago

Fuses are good and in place. 40 pin connector was just replaced on both the driver and MPU board. I also put in a new battery holder and batteries. Reading 4.4 volts and diode checks out ok.

#35 7 years ago

Voltage at coils? Do they work if you manually ground them?

#36 7 years ago

I thought if there was an issue with the batteries or cmos that it would start in audit mode? I'm starting in attract mode, so I figured the batteries and cmos were ok.

#37 7 years ago
Quoted from PinDude007:

I thought if there was an issue with the batteries or cmos that it would start in audit mode? I'm starting in attract mode, so I figured the batteries and cmos were ok.

I went threw aton of shit on mine.. finally fed up I bought a new rotrendog and it solved the problem.firepower came to life.. mine didn't even have attract mode tho.
I have a flash as well that drove me nutts.. driver and cpu board.. bought 3 refurbished aND still had a problrm.. the guy sent me with two more that worked .. those dam 40 pin connects can raise hell even if replaced.. one crack or bad connect and it makes you insane ..

#38 7 years ago
Quoted from Milltown:

I went threw aton of shit on mine.. finally fed up I bought a new rotrendog and it solved the problem.firepower came to life.. mine didn't even have attract mode tho.
I have a flash as well that drove me nutts.. driver and cpu board.. bought 3 refurbished aND still had a problrm.. the guy sent me with two more that worked .. those dam 40 pin connects can raise hell even if replaced.. one crack or bad connect and it makes you insane ..

And is it showing credits like it should start ?

#39 7 years ago

And all 3 trough switches are definitely making contact ?

#40 7 years ago
Quoted from PinDude007:

I thought if there was an issue with the batteries or cmos that it would start in audit mode? I'm starting in attract mode, so I figured the batteries and cmos were ok.

If you go directly to attract on power up, your batteries and CMOS RAM should be fine. There is still the slight possibility that the memory won't save things properly but this is not common if you get to attract.

Do you have the game set to free play? Go through the settings (directions in the Firepower booklet you can find on IPDB). Make sure maximum credits (setting 18) is set to 0. If that still wont let you start a game, double or triple check the trough switches to make sure they are registering. You can use the diagnostic switch test mode to check (instructions in the booklet too).

So for the solenoids, you confirmed with a meter that the solenoid fuse is good. Measure the voltage at the solenoid fuse. One lead on the fuse, the other on the game ground. Good source of ground is the metal braided wire that circles around the game. If that is good, with the playfield up measure the voltage at your coils to ensure power is making it to the coils. You should see 28V at the coil.

#41 7 years ago

Ok, I checked the fuse and it is blown now. I swear it wasn't blown when I checked it earlier, but it is now.

Also, It stopped working and locked up again. I checked the logic voltage at the MPU and it was low again. I removed connector J6 on the power supply and the voltage was good there. I reseated the connector and the machine booted into attract mode. So I will be replacing the connector on the wire harness (I replaced the pins on the board yesterday)!

With the machine booting again, it now lets me start a game. Of course, with the solenoid fuse blown, none of the solenoids work, but everything else checks out (displays, lamps, flippers etc.).

The only other funky thing going on is the middle coin switch adds 4 credits each time it's pressed. The left and right each only add 1 per press. Any ideas on this and where to look for the cause of the blown fuse?

#42 7 years ago
Quoted from PinDude007:

The only other funky thing going on is the middle coin switch adds 4 credits each time it's pressed. The left and right each only add 1 per press. Any ideas on this and where to look for the cause of the blown fuse?

This is a normal. You can choose the pricing model in settings. Default is the center coin slot is for dollar coins which gives 4 credits.

#43 7 years ago
Quoted from PinDude007:

I reseated the connector and the machine booted into attract mode. So I will be replacing the connector on the wire harness (I replaced the pins on the board yesterday)!

Mointing screws on the boards are important in this regard too. Make sure all the screws are installed and snugged down.

#44 7 years ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

This is a normal. You can choose the pricing model in settings. Default is the center coin slot is for dollar coins which gives 4 credits.

Doh! Good to hear, because I was worried it was some impossible to find wiring issue!

Quoted from Schwaggs:

Mointing screws on the boards are important in this regard too. Make sure all the screws are installed and snugged down.

Thanks for the advise, I was only securing with the top 2 screws since I was taking it out often, but will make sure it is properly secured so I'm not chasing my tail.

#45 7 years ago
Quoted from PinDude007:

Ok, I checked the fuse and it is blown now. I swear it wasn't blown when I checked it earlier, but it is now.
Also, It stopped working and locked up again. I checked the logic voltage at the MPU and it was low again. I removed connector J6 on the power supply and the voltage was good there. I reseated the connector and the machine booted into attract mode. So I will be replacing the connector on the wire harness (I replaced the pins on the board yesterday)!
With the machine booting again, it now lets me start a game. Of course, with the solenoid fuse blown, none of the solenoids work, but everything else checks out (displays, lamps, flippers etc.).
The only other funky thing going on is the middle coin switch adds 4 credits each time it's pressed. The left and right each only add 1 per press. Any ideas on this and where to look for the cause of the blown fuse?

My firepower has a middle coin slot for a dollar coin? Possible yours is ?

#46 7 years ago

It was for the Susan B Anthony dollar coin.

#47 7 years ago
Quoted from cody_chunn:

It was for the Susan B Anthony dollar coin.

Yes.. mine has it as well...

#48 7 years ago

Well she's up and running, just played a few games!!

The fuse must have blown when the game locked up with the bad connection or something. I put a new fuse in and it fired right up.

Moral of the story (as has been documented many times) don't mess around with the connections, assume they are all bad and resolder/replace them.

My last question (I hope for now) is what is the best way to adjust the switches. Two of the switches in the trough don't always make contact when a ball is in there. I ran some trials and it misses the ball about 1 out of 9 times. It's kind of a pain to not be able to put the next ball in play or not be able to start a game randomly.

#49 7 years ago
Quoted from PinDude007:

My last question (I hope for now) is what is the best way to adjust the switches. Two of the switches in the trough don't always make contact when a ball is in there.

If you are talking about the outhole switches, Williams had a trough
switch replacement kit back in the 1980's. Other than that, clean and
adjust what you have.
Note: find a thrashed High Speed and use it for parts.

#50 7 years ago

Squeeze a piece of copy paper between the contact points and pull the paper out. Do this until the contacts are clean.

With the switch open (no balls in the trough in this case) bend the contact point so they are 1/16" apart or less without touching.

Playing the game will clean the contacts in some instances. So there is a chance it will go away on its own.

If you plan on getting more machines or are a tool nut, consider one of these. They make adjusting switches a breeze! http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1518

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