New! Dark mode!

Browsing Pinside at night? Getting tired of all the white? Switch to dark mode using the button in the top right (or CTRL-B)!

(Topic ID: 192199)

Firepower Flipper Issue


By Pinball-DOOD

3 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 34 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by cody_chunn
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 5 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

FPflip2 (resized).jpg
IMG_1050 (resized).JPG
IMG_1049 (resized).JPG
Flipper Slop diagram (resized).png
IMG_1043 (resized).JPG

#1 3 years ago

Hey guys, replaced my right flipper plunger and link and now the flipper is much weaker. Any input on why it's so weak? Thanks! Here's the new one I put in

IMG_1043 (resized).JPG

#2 3 years ago

It's playable but it doesn't have that "snap".

#3 3 years ago

Do you have ~1/16" up/down slop in the flipper shaft? Where the crank is gripping the flipper bat...grab that and push/pull. It should move a very small bit. Or with the field down, grab the flipper bat and pull straight up. Should move 1/16" up/down.

#4 3 years ago

Make sure your end of stroke switch has good continuity at rest and opens 1/8" fully extended.

#5 3 years ago

You could try filing the EOS contacts to get better contact. Also there must be tension between the two contact points forcing them together. The picture shows the tensioner is not making contact with the inner leaf.

#6 3 years ago
Quoted from cody_chunn:

Do you have ~1/16" up/down slop in the flipper shaft? Where the crank is gripping the flipper bat...grab that and push/pull. It should move a very small bit. Or with the field down, grab the flipper bat and pull straight up. Should move 1/16" up/down.

Ah, gotcha. Do I need to loosen the nut at all or should I just pull?

#7 3 years ago
Quoted from mikat11:

You could try filing the EOS contacts to get better contact. Also there must be tension between the two contact points forcing them together. The picture shows the tensioner is not making contact with the inner leaf.

I'll do that! I put a new EOS in and then just put the old one back in hopes of fixing the problem

#8 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinball-DOOD:

Ah, gotcha. Do I need to loosen the nut at all or should I just pull?

Loosen nut

#9 3 years ago
Quoted from Travish:

Make sure your end of stroke switch has good continuity at rest and opens 1/8" fully extended.

Will do!

#10 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinball-DOOD:

Ah, gotcha. Do I need to loosen the nut at all or should I just pull?

Just pull. The flipper bat, shaft and crank should all move as a unit. If it doesn't move, then loosen the nut and just lightly tap the flipper shaft toward the top of the playfield. *Don't forget alignment with the inlane.

If you think it's the EOS, install and alligator clip jumper on the EOS switch lugs and test the flip. CAUTION: do not hold the flipper up for more than 2 seconds with EOS switch defeated.

#11 3 years ago
Quoted from cody_chunn:

Just pull. The flipper bat, shaft and crank should all move as a unit. If it doesn't move, then loosen the nut and just lightly tap the flipper shaft toward the top of the playfield. *Don't forget alignment with the inlane.
If you think it's the EOS, install and alligator clip jumper on the EOS switch lugs and test the flip. CAUTION: do not hold the flipper up for more than 2 seconds with EOS switch defeated.

Gotcha, thanks a ton.

#12 3 years ago

I put on a new EOS from the kit just to omit any EOS related issues and I still have that weak flipper action! When I move the flipper by hand it seems to have trouble extending upward

#13 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinball-DOOD:

I put on a new EOS from the kit just to omit any EOS related issues and I still have that weak flipper action! When I move the flipper by hand it seems to have trouble extending upward

You could have saved time and effort by simply jumping the EOS with a clip lead. Jumped out but still sluggish? Not the EOS.

You are describing a physical resistance to movement. Did you check for up/down slop with the flipper bat?

#14 3 years ago
Quoted from cody_chunn:

You could have saved time and effort by simply jumping the EOS with a clip lead. Jumped out but still sluggish? Not the EOS.
You are describing a physical resistance to movement. Did you check for up/down slop with the flipper bat?

The EOS was oxidized and needed replacing anyway haha. That's what I'm struggling with! Does the armature have to be touching the bushing?

#15 3 years ago

Post a pic of the new EOS installed and what the gap in the switch looks like when the flipper is engaged. The closer the gap the stronger the flip.

#16 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Post a pic of the new EOS installed and what the gap in the switch looks like when the flipper is engaged. The closer the gap the stronger the flip.

Will do!

#17 3 years ago

Flipper Slop diagram (resized).png

#18 3 years ago

Very helpful! Thanks

#19 3 years ago

Is this good slop?

#20 3 years ago

IMG_1049 (resized).JPG

IMG_1050 (resized).JPG

#21 3 years ago

That looks to much. The correct gap is the thickness of a credit card.

#22 3 years ago

The slop looks OK to me...is there the feeling of resistance/binding still there?

FPflip2 (resized).jpg

#23 3 years ago

I finally got it! Plays great now, thanks all.

#24 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinball-DOOD:

I finally got it! Plays great now, thanks all.

What was the issue?

#25 3 years ago
Quoted from cody_chunn:

The slop looks OK to me...is there the feeling of resistance/binding still there?

Hmm, yeah I noticed the rubber stop was missing on both flippers. I'll order them too

#26 3 years ago

What was the final fix ?

#27 3 years ago

Turns out my slop was a little too large. I minimized it to about the width of a credit card and I can see a huge difference. It's still not a loose like the other flipper but I'm hoping that over time it gets better. It works good enough for now.

#28 3 years ago

Just because your baseplate has holes doesn't mean you are missing the rubbers. Your flipper travel will be way less and probably won't be able to trap. Look at your plate and see if it has wear marks where the links have been hitting. I don't think firepower had the rubbers originally

#29 3 years ago
Quoted from Travish:

Just because your baseplate has holes doesn't mean you are missing the rubbers. Your flipper travel will be way less and probably won't be able to trap. Look at your plate and see if it has wear marks where the links have been hitting. I don't think firepower had the rubbers originally

You're right! The older link seems more loose because it has a slight indention from striking the base plate.

#30 3 years ago

I can send you a couple rubbers but you will probably take them back out.

#31 3 years ago

Thanks I appreciate it but I think I'll be good. It's playing better and better

#32 3 years ago

Also, if not for you then for others, sometimes when you feel a little mechanical binding it can be the coil sleeve. Ive had a few brand new ones that were visibly good but for some reason created a bind. Replaced the sleeve and all was good. It happens sometimes.

Quoted from Pinball-DOOD:

When I move the flipper by hand it seems to have trouble extending upward

#33 3 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

Also, if not for you then for others, sometimes when you feel a little mechanical binding it can be the coil sleeve. Ive had a few brand new ones that were visibly good but for some reason created a bind. Replaced the sleeve and all was good. It happens sometimes.

Very true, I had the new sleeves on and it started binding so I put the old one back.

#34 3 years ago
Quoted from Travish:

I can send you a couple rubbers but you will probably take them back out.

Yeah, I wasn't sure FP needed them but for games that do, that don't have them, it allows the plunger to exit the coil sleeve too far and it's very weak. However, I agree FP doesn't use them.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
From: $ 18.00
Apparel - Men
Pinside Shop
From: $ 40.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
$ 14.00
Electronics
Yorktown Arcade Supply
From: $ 5.00
Cabinet - Other
UpKick Pinball
$ 12.00
Cabinet - Other
Siegecraft Electronics
$ 33.00
Playfield - Decals
Metal-Mods
From: $ 20.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
$ 11.00
From: $ 5.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
UpKick Pinball
From: $ 9.00
$ 499.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
$ 259.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
From: $ 40.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
$ 349.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside