Do you have ~1/16" up/down slop in the flipper shaft? Where the crank is gripping the flipper bat...grab that and push/pull. It should move a very small bit. Or with the field down, grab the flipper bat and pull straight up. Should move 1/16" up/down.
You could try filing the EOS contacts to get better contact. Also there must be tension between the two contact points forcing them together. The picture shows the tensioner is not making contact with the inner leaf.
Quoted from cody_chunn:Do you have ~1/16" up/down slop in the flipper shaft? Where the crank is gripping the flipper bat...grab that and push/pull. It should move a very small bit. Or with the field down, grab the flipper bat and pull straight up. Should move 1/16" up/down.
Ah, gotcha. Do I need to loosen the nut at all or should I just pull?
Quoted from mikat11:You could try filing the EOS contacts to get better contact. Also there must be tension between the two contact points forcing them together. The picture shows the tensioner is not making contact with the inner leaf.
I'll do that! I put a new EOS in and then just put the old one back in hopes of fixing the problem
Quoted from Pinball-DOOD:Ah, gotcha. Do I need to loosen the nut at all or should I just pull?
Loosen nut
Quoted from Travish:Make sure your end of stroke switch has good continuity at rest and opens 1/8" fully extended.
Will do!
Quoted from Pinball-DOOD:Ah, gotcha. Do I need to loosen the nut at all or should I just pull?
Just pull. The flipper bat, shaft and crank should all move as a unit. If it doesn't move, then loosen the nut and just lightly tap the flipper shaft toward the top of the playfield. *Don't forget alignment with the inlane.
If you think it's the EOS, install and alligator clip jumper on the EOS switch lugs and test the flip. CAUTION: do not hold the flipper up for more than 2 seconds with EOS switch defeated.
Quoted from cody_chunn:Just pull. The flipper bat, shaft and crank should all move as a unit. If it doesn't move, then loosen the nut and just lightly tap the flipper shaft toward the top of the playfield. *Don't forget alignment with the inlane.
If you think it's the EOS, install and alligator clip jumper on the EOS switch lugs and test the flip. CAUTION: do not hold the flipper up for more than 2 seconds with EOS switch defeated.
Gotcha, thanks a ton.
I put on a new EOS from the kit just to omit any EOS related issues and I still have that weak flipper action! When I move the flipper by hand it seems to have trouble extending upward
Quoted from Pinball-DOOD:I put on a new EOS from the kit just to omit any EOS related issues and I still have that weak flipper action! When I move the flipper by hand it seems to have trouble extending upward
You could have saved time and effort by simply jumping the EOS with a clip lead. Jumped out but still sluggish? Not the EOS.
You are describing a physical resistance to movement. Did you check for up/down slop with the flipper bat?
Quoted from cody_chunn:You could have saved time and effort by simply jumping the EOS with a clip lead. Jumped out but still sluggish? Not the EOS.
You are describing a physical resistance to movement. Did you check for up/down slop with the flipper bat?
The EOS was oxidized and needed replacing anyway haha. That's what I'm struggling with! Does the armature have to be touching the bushing?
Post a pic of the new EOS installed and what the gap in the switch looks like when the flipper is engaged. The closer the gap the stronger the flip.
Quoted from chuckwurt:Post a pic of the new EOS installed and what the gap in the switch looks like when the flipper is engaged. The closer the gap the stronger the flip.
Will do!
Quoted from Pinball-DOOD:I finally got it! Plays great now, thanks all.
What was the issue?
Quoted from cody_chunn:The slop looks OK to me...is there the feeling of resistance/binding still there?
Hmm, yeah I noticed the rubber stop was missing on both flippers. I'll order them too
Turns out my slop was a little too large. I minimized it to about the width of a credit card and I can see a huge difference. It's still not a loose like the other flipper but I'm hoping that over time it gets better. It works good enough for now.
Just because your baseplate has holes doesn't mean you are missing the rubbers. Your flipper travel will be way less and probably won't be able to trap. Look at your plate and see if it has wear marks where the links have been hitting. I don't think firepower had the rubbers originally
Quoted from Travish:Just because your baseplate has holes doesn't mean you are missing the rubbers. Your flipper travel will be way less and probably won't be able to trap. Look at your plate and see if it has wear marks where the links have been hitting. I don't think firepower had the rubbers originally
You're right! The older link seems more loose because it has a slight indention from striking the base plate.
Also, if not for you then for others, sometimes when you feel a little mechanical binding it can be the coil sleeve. Ive had a few brand new ones that were visibly good but for some reason created a bind. Replaced the sleeve and all was good. It happens sometimes.
Quoted from Pinball-DOOD:When I move the flipper by hand it seems to have trouble extending upward
Quoted from SUPERBEE:Also, if not for you then for others, sometimes when you feel a little mechanical binding it can be the coil sleeve. Ive had a few brand new ones that were visibly good but for some reason created a bind. Replaced the sleeve and all was good. It happens sometimes.
Very true, I had the new sleeves on and it started binding so I put the old one back.
Quoted from Travish:I can send you a couple rubbers but you will probably take them back out.
Yeah, I wasn't sure FP needed them but for games that do, that don't have them, it allows the plunger to exit the coil sleeve too far and it's very weak. However, I agree FP doesn't use them.
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