(Topic ID: 131407)

Fireball II Club (fans welcome!)

By mof

8 years ago


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#296 5 years ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

When I brought the game home the displays would light up & the game would sometimes start and keep score but now nothing happens & the displays are blank. Also from the beginning there are no lights on the playfield but the back box has lights. Any idea what’s going on? Thank you. [quoted image]

When you turn on power, how many flashes from the LED on the MPU?

#297 5 years ago

Watch how the LED flashes

#299 5 years ago

First Flash:
Signals the end of the ROM test.

Second Flash:
Test the NMOS RAM (U7). There will be a bit of a delay between the first and second flash, be patient. If no flash, replace U7.

Third Flash:
Tests the CMOS RAM (U8). If no flash, replace U8 - use caution the 5101 chip is NOT diode protected and is very static sensitive!

Fourth Flash:
Tests the first PIA chip (U10). If no flash, swap U11 for U10. Note that although you may get the fourth flash, U10 may still be defective.

Fifth Flash:
Tests the second PIA chip (U11). As above. If you have already swapped U10 and U11 and don't have the fifth flash, try a new 6821 in U11. If still no success, swap once more. Worst case-replace both PIA's.

Sixth Flash:
Tests the Display Interrupt Generator. This actually tests both U11 and U12. If U11 has been replaced, and no sixth flash, replace U12.

Seventh Flash:
Tests the "Zero Crossing Detector". This tests U10 and U14 as well as the presense of +43 volts from the rectifier board. If no seventh flash, check for +43 volts before changing anything else. Fuse F4 (+43 volt) is a common failure. Unless U10 has already been swapped for a new or known good 6821, change it before U14.

#301 5 years ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

Thanks vid1900 ! I will try to figure that out. I may have to watch some YouTube videos but the first thing I’m going to do is take out that leaking battery.

Just snip the battery out with wire cutters - right now!

1 week later
#304 5 years ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

If I am not able to get the board working... who would you suggest to send it to? Or would a new rottendog board be the way to go?

Honestly, you don't have to send the board out to anybody.

There are a lot of good mailorder "board guys", but really, any local pinball tech can get your board fixed in less than a hour.

Join the local league, and there will be 5 guys that can fix it for a few beers.

#309 5 years ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

Do people usually just color match the inserts & maybe personalize some other areas for this game? I saw on a TNT amusement YouTube video where they used some (flame) fire looking LEDs that would look neat in this game.

Color match the inserts, don't buy bright 2 chip bulbs for them, or you'll be sorry (and your friends will laugh at you).

Buy extras, because you always have a few duds, or the heads break off.

You've got a warm color pallet on this game, so try Warmwhite bulbs for the GI

#311 5 years ago

If you've never bought LEDs before, remember not to buy Yellow or Orange for inserts - use Warmwhite instead.

3 weeks later
#315 5 years ago

^ nice!

1 week later
#320 5 years ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

Is it very common to have different serial numbers on the backbox & cabinet?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Somebody switched it to the wrong head.

They probably thought this head was better condition than the original.

#322 5 years ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

It’s not a big deal is it?

Now that you've brought it to everyone's attention, maybe someone else here has the other half of your mismatch....ya never know

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