Fireball II
Bally, 1981
Fireball II
Bell Games, 1981You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider vec-tor.
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Quoted from scampcamp:Is it very common to have different serial numbers on the backbox & cabinet?
No... I have seen where a group of games have come in and the flippers mix and match
in order to get an "A" game and a "B" game.
I had to do the mix,n,switch with three High Speeds...
I was able to get an "A" game a "B" game and the third game was taken to the auction to be dumped.
Quoted from scampcamp:Wondering how you guys would go about making this area flush with the playfield.
I use thin "Fish paper" from the electronics stores in order to shim the plastic to the playfield.
Quoted from Quench:flashing the four 12 volt "921" lamps in the doodle bug area during bonus collect.
"#912" lamps.
Quoted from scampcamp:My friend Don noticed 2 of the kick-out springs did not look right & the tension was wrong.
Would anyone know what the correct spring would be for these kick-outs or a part number I would look for? Thanks a lot.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
They look fine... those spring are OEM.
Quoted from arcademojo:Finally got some time in on my game.
Couple questions.
1)How many balls are supposed to be in the game? This one has 3 balls in it.
2)Sometimes it will kick out a second ball and I have to plunge that one while the other ball is still in play.
3) I can lock the balls in the saucer but they never come out until end of ball. Are they supposed to come out while playing?
Answer:
1) 3 balls.
2) check for sticky out trough switchs.
3) ball must go through top rollover?.
Quoted from timab2000:Game uses three balls.
If it's kicking out two balls there could be something wrong with a small switch in the trough maybe an adjustment is needed on that. Or the small wire on the switch could be broken or missing
If you get both balls locked you need to hit the three stationary targets up by the top flipper and it will unlock them for multi-ball.
You only get multi-ball if both balls are locked
If you don't do that at the end of the game it will kick the balls back out.
Hope that helps fun game
That right... the top three targets... I forgot... to many years.
Quoted from Manu2:I've made two videos to show the problem. I've made a mistake in the previous post : It's not the one down at the left side, but the one up at the left side.
In the first video, I light up the pinball with the bulb, and all light on, and the bulb burns if I don't light off immediately the pinball. Then, I light on the pinball without the bulb, and all is OK. Then I put back the bulb, all light on, and the bulb burns.
In the second video, I show you the connections of the faulty bulb.
https://vimeo.com/356497741
https://vimeo.com/356500407
The SCR is blown out.
Quoted from Manu2:Thanks for your answer. But I don't think that there is an SCR for these bulbs, because they are on a 43v line and they are all linked together.[quoted image]
SCR Q18 2N5060-------drives the MOC 3011
The MOC 3011 drives the four #921 lamps.
SCR input has a #555 lamp socket.
1) is the #555 lamp good? schematics ref.#44 lamp.
2) does the lamp turn off and on in lamp test?
3) if the #555 lamp is "on" all the time, you have a blown SCR. Schematic ref. #44 lamp.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
4) if the #555 lamp functions O.K. in lamp test, then you have a blown MOC 3011
--- circuit.
Quoted from Manu2:I would want to solder back the wire, but before I want to be sure what is the normal test : lamp test or coil test ?
The flashers/brights are driven by the lamp scr...
Therefore, it is part of the lamp test not coil test...
Question? Is the lamp driver board the original OEM or is it
a led replacement style board?
Once, I had to work on a Fireball II and the brights would not work...
Put back the old OEM factory lamp driver board back in and the flashers/brights worked.
Quoted from scampcamp:Is this a HUGE coincidence ?
My Fireball ll boards have been rebuilt but the Same Player Shoots Again light was the only 1 not working. I replaced the Q40 SCR on the lamp board& still didn't fix it.
I tested the blue w yellow wire & it was good.
I then put the wire for the 50k in the spot for The Same Player Shoots Again & it works then.
Then I put in my totally bulletproofed EBD board (Same board) by Chris Hibler & The Same Player Shoots Again doesn't work.
The only thing we think it may be is a bad Q40 SCR. But could this be on both rebuilt boards ??
I appreciate any of your thoughts.
Did you ground the output of the SCR that drives the lamp?
it could be a bad connection on the connector to the lamp.
Quoted from Manu2:You must test the lamps in test mode. In attract mode, the "Same player shoots again" doesn't light. It's the case on nearly all the Bally pinball machines of these years.
I would appreciate to have some pictures of the wiring of the 4 flash lamps, and specially of the first bulb at the left bottom (when playfield is up) where there are green, yellow and black wires. Thanks in advance.[quoted image]
You need to find the solid "black" wire that is NOT the magnet wires.
The magnet "black" wires are "NOT" part of the lamp bright/flasher circuit.
You have a green jumper that should not be.... it is in the wrong place.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
MOC 3011 driver
J1-1 GND (85) black-white wire
J1-2 +7volt (20) solid blue wire
J1-3 scr driver (98) gray-black wire
J1-4 n/u
J1-5 key
J1-6 output gnd driver (80) solid black wire... drives the four #921 lamps
#921 lamps are "daisy chained" together to +43 volt "yellow" wire.
Note: remove J1 connector.
---- a) remove #921 lamps from sockets.
---- b) use meter to find "black" wire from J1 to 1st lamp socket (continuity test)
---- c) the black wire is not the black wires to the magnet.
_______________________________________________
Note: magnet wiring
---- a) one black wire from magnet goes to solder lug yellow +43 volts.
---- b) one black wire from magnet goes to solder lug (74) orange-green.
---- c) orange-green wire goes to relay contact assembly.
Quoted from scampcamp:Are you talking to me about my Same Player Shoots Again light not coming on ?
When I put it in "Lamp Test Mode " all lamps worked... including the Same Player Shoots Again.
I'm not sure why this is the only light that doesn't in attract mode though..... interesting.
No... it is for Manu2 ... He is having trouble with the Bright/Flasher circuit.
Note:
SPSA never are on in attract mode.
Sometimes Specials are never on in attract mode.
It just depends on the game.
Data East attract mode does not light all of the lights...
From them it is a program flaw... e.g. sweeping fx.
Same for some Bally games...
The list of little game flaws can go on and on.
Quoted from scampcamp:Could somebody please post the correct rubber ring layout map?
The 1 in the manual is very vague & the playfields I've seen online are different from playfield to playfield. Thank you
Witch part do you find befuddling? The top rubber rings are stretched in odd configurations...
which could be hard if you are missing a post or two. I would check out the games flyer for
more directions on how the rings are positioned.
Regards.
Quoted from scampcamp:It looks to me like a pop rivet someone put there because the ball was getting stuck.... not sure though.
That is not OEM... Somebodies fab job.
I never had a ball stuck by the center thumper bumper.
Quoted from Pvdj446:1: little demon popping by itself sometimes
Common problem with Fireball II. Software is designed to be sensitive reflex.
Try to make sure cabinet and playfield connector contacts on CPU board are
clean and have a good mating with each other.
Quoted from scampcamp:I adjusted all the targets so they work correctly but the demon is still taking away more than 1 at a time. Any suggestions? Thank you
That is an inherent flaw with the game...
The post kicker needs to be off the fast response routine and
reprogramed like an eject hole kicker.
Quoted from scampcamp:Ok thanks... just curious why it worked fine before boards & flippers rebuilt.... would leds cause this?
It could be anything.
Any slight "noise", and the kicker coil will fire and subtract a demon.
The coil is programmed from a part of the IRQ line sub routine.
Quoted from tomdrum:If anyone needs the "Little Demon" post, Planetary has them in stock. Correct translucent color, probably NOS from Bay Area Amusements when they used to sell them. $7 plus shipping.
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-C-972-1&Category_Code=GS-1565
Just a heads up: I had one of these posts break many years ago and a guy that worked at Rockwell
was a side engineer... he took the part and added a metal pin and glued the top main post back
onto the stem. The part never broke again.
Quoted from jeffc:UPDATE: The cards have been claimed.
You are a good pinsider @jeffc.
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Collegeville, PA