There is a game setting that gives you the option to only collect the Fireball bonus at the saucers, rather than at every end-of-ball. Doing so makes the game much more challenging, and adds some risk/reward strategy to it.

Left side advances Fireball bonus, right side advances doomsday bonus. Center bank advances doomsday bonus multiplier, and A-B-C-D advances Fireball bonus multiplier. Bonuses can get big in this game, much like Fathom with its two bonuses.

Doomsday bonus is collected at end of ball. Fireball bonus is collected at the lit saucers, and depending on the DIP switch setting, it can also be collected at end of ball. I prefer that setting to be off, so you have to collect it at the saucers.

Doesn't answer your question, but I'll just leave this here...IMG_1668.jpg

Doomsday bonus is all built off the center and right drop target banks. Increase the multiplier by completing the center bank. Collect at drain.

Left side bank and rollover switches advance fireball bonus. Increase the fireball bonus multiplier by making A-B-C-D. Collect at the lit saucer, and possibly at drain, depending on game settings.

That is correct. You can build both bonuses, but the only one you can collect repeatedly at the saucers is the fireball bonus.

If you put LEDs in the GI of Fireball II, you're going to have a bad time... unless you do GI smoothing.

6.9uF was the magic number to tame the flashing on mine. Just add it to the output of the aux driver board that does not have the big heatsink on it. (The one with the big heatsink is for the flashers in the "doodlebug" area). Pic shows a 68uF capacitor, but this was not the final value chosen.

IMG_1710.JPG

Here's how it looks. I can tune this a bit by changing the capacitor size, lower value gives me more effect, larger value gives me less effect.

dupe

Not sure. It would only be applicable to games that use the pictured aux driver board to flash the GI. I don't know which games besides Fireball II use them.

That sounds like what happened on mine. The capacitor replacement fixed it for me.

Just for grins, I went on Marco's site, and the aux GI flasher board is used on the following games:

Centaur
Centaur II
Elektra
Fireball II (obviously)
Gold Ball
Mr And Mrs Pac Man
Spectrum
Vector

Try adjusting the pots a bit on the sound board and see if you get anything, as well as checking the speaker connector on the board and the main volume pot on the coin door.

I'll add it to the classic bally club posting so more people see it, since it is applicable to more games than just Fireball II.

Does it still blow fuses if you pull the connector off of the GI aux driver flasher board?

Yes. The one with the heatsink is for the doodlebug, and the one without the heatsink is for the GI. I'd start with the obvious, all four bulbs might actually be bad.

We need some good instruction cards for this game.

Since I haven't had any solid bites on mine that is for sale, I've continued to tweak it so that it plays as well as it possibly can.

Wotan saucer no longer rejects, at all. Moving the metal piece behind the saucer took care of that.

Did the best I could to eliminate the ball hop from the lane guide to the flipper. Can't be fixed without a replacement ball guide, unfortunately.

Lastly, I learned something about the inlane that I never noticed before: There are actually three different ways you can configure it, to make it easier or harder.

The slingshot rubber can either go around the outside of the post where the gate attaches, or around the inside. On the outside, it makes the inlane very narrow and bouncy. I also noticed that the one-way gates hit the slingshot rubbers when you have it configured this way, so you can't have the gates in there with the narrow outlanes. This is the "brutally hard" configuration.

Alternately, you can route that rubber so that it goes inside the post. In this configuration, you either can use the gates (easier) or not (harder).

Look closely at the pics in this thread and you will see all three different configurations. One of the pics Aurich posted on the first page actually has the left and right sides configured differently.

We played mine last night on "Bro Do You Even Pinball".

http://www.youtube.com/embed/Gq8YhzdBINE?autoplay=1&rel=0

Also, here is the old playfield, just for comparison's sake. It's not bad under the mylar, but the unprotected areas have seen better days. IMG_1653.jpg