A set of plastics from CPR would be nice. Anyone else down with that?

Agreed. My plastics have quite a lot of breaks and cracks as well.

So... did adjusting the drop switches fix the demon popping itself issue?

Did'n have the time to adjust it. Will do this weekend.

In reference to Jappie's last post, you'll probably smell the coil when it really gets hot. It's not a pleasant, nor welcome, smell either.

Created some lane guides + glowing hollow skulls for on top. Pics aren't that great.
Also created a little demon replacement piece since these seem to be out of stock everywhere.

If anyone is interested they are for sale.

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Stupid question. My Special light does not blink during attract mode and not during gameplay neither. Bulb is ok, wire is ok. When I put in a LED it stays on. Any thoughts on where to look?

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Has anyone put a shooter bottle of Fireball as a mod in your game?

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I am definitely putting one of those and a couple of shot glasses behind the coin door. And not the shooter sized bottle .

Associated transitor on light board

Does it light in the lamp test?
Check my Tech Chart for the associated thyristor.
http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Tech_Charts/Bally_Fireball_II_Tech_Chart.pdf
It's listed as Q51.
Also check the lamp driver board for bad print header connections at J3-15.

I adjusted all the targets so they work correctly but the demon is still taking away more than 1 at a time. Any suggestions? Thank you

That is an inherent flaw with the game...
The post kicker needs to be off the fast response routine and
reprogramed like an eject hole kicker.

Ok thanks... just curious why it worked fine before boards & flippers rebuilt.... would leds cause this?

It could be anything.
Any slight "noise", and the kicker coil will fire and subtract a demon.
The coil is programmed from a part of the IRQ line sub routine.

Does anyone know a source for new side rails, specifically the two hole right one? Did a cabinet repaint and wishing for some new ones.

Would think that fbII and medusa side rails are identical?
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/P-921-76-77M

I would think so too. Thank you. Don't know how i missed that.

Somebody asked me recreate the little kicker pole in between the two flippers of a Fireball II which can be used on a Medusa also. So here it is.

The 2 last pics where my first version, since them been using the red semi tranparant look. Price 17$ or 15 € + shipping. Already posted this in the Meduso fanclub also.

If you have any questions just shoot.

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Yo Pinbrotatos! You people know from how fun FB2 is, but the masses do not...
FB 2 was my first machine almost 10 years ago, and I still have it (tho it needs a lot of work... sigh)
We all know know about the L'il Demon and all the rest of the fun stuff ("Wotan captured!"), but in this episode, Uncle Pinball lets the riffraff in on the fun...

Uncle Pinball's Podcast Episode #53 be like up in your grill and talking about my Pinside namesake: Fireball 2!

https://unclepinball.buzzsprout.com/

Just a heads up: I had one of these posts break many years ago and a guy that worked at Rockwell
was a side engineer... he took the part and added a metal pin and glued the top main post back
onto the stem. The part never broke again.

FREE: original instruction cards for Fireball II.

2 double-sided cards: M-1508-97-E2, M-1508-97-E3, M-1508-97-E4, M-1508-97-F.

Send me a PM (I do not check this thread) if interested and I can put into US mail for you.

UPDATE: The cards have been claimed.

You are a good pinsider @jeffc.

Can anyone post a pic of their lamp wiring near the demon bonus area? I think this machine I bought has the wiring all wrong, showing continuity between a lamp socket and a coil which does not seem right at all

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The four lamps around the doodle bug area are 12 volt lamps connected in series to the 43V solenoid power. What you're seeing is factory and was done for higher intensity flashing. So if you're replacing those lamps, make sure you use 12V units.

See schematic here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fireball-ii-club-members-only/page/8#post-5039003

Hi love this game second game I have gotten in my collection. Was hoping someone could help me with a problem I am having though. At times when the ball drains it will get stuck on the little demon post so i Ethier have to waste a demon post or if i dont have any I'll have to take the glass off and push the ball down to continue the my game. Any help would be greatly appreciated

ellmotw, make sure your Little Demon post is tightly secured. The screws may be loose. I had that same problem, but tightening it up fixed it. Good luck!

Pinkid thx for the info the left side drains fine it's just the right that dosent. Do you by any chance know if there a place I can get pics on how to do this? I'm really new to hobby I just learned how to change rubbers any help would be much appreciated

Pinkid bro thx for the advice I did some research and figured it out sure it was 2 screws that needed to be tightened but for me that's huge victory first time I had the playfield up and I can barely use a screwdriver lol.

Glad you got it figured out.

Hello friends -

I'm new to the board but a for-real old timer with pins. I did maintenance and repair on electro-mechanical pins in an arcade back in the mid-late 70s.

I picked up my Fireball II about 25+ years ago and have enjoyed it as a home machine ever since. The squawk & talk has been flaky for years; I just found an up-to-date replacement and I'm currently doing burn-in and testing. So far it's fantastic.

Next up I'm considering doing the LED upgrade.

Glad to be a part of the group!

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Add me to the Fireball2-Owners-Club please (I’ve been waiting to say this for quite a while ). It was on my wish list for some time but I finally picked this one up last night.
It’s unrestored with some wear and tear but the backglass is super nice, pf had a protector on it for quite some time because you could hardly see trough it. It was warped too making the ball do crazy moves so I took it off and cleaned and waxed the playfield, came out pretty nice.
The previous owner placed some red leds here and there which I think looks fine for now.
(While playing last night I suddenly realised I now have Demons, Devils and Evel all in one room yikes).
Plays like I hoped it would, very addicitive, loads of fun !
Small hiccup is the broken lower plastic part just next to the left flipper, this causes the ball to get stuck, I found the missing corner inside the cabinet with tons of glue and tape on it, are these available somewhere ?

Thanks Gus
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After 2 evenings with FB2 in the living room I was wondering; when not in use, does it talk or make sounds ? Like an attract mode, or is it just the lights ? Why I’m asking this, the other ones I have will make sounds once in a while to get tour attention, or is this in the settings of the FB2 ?
Funny thing happened last night though when I moved it a bit it suddenly produced this eerie laughing ‘whahahahaha whahahahah’ quite long too, lasted for 10 seconds, couldn’t replicate it ?!

Dip switch 16 aanzetten voor attract geluid.
Dip switch 16 set to on for attract sound.

The sound you heard was most likely the tilt sound.
Bally games the tilt also works in game over.

Thanks for your help Inkochnito ! That’s what I wanted to hear ‘Fireball Awaits You’ (but I can imagine it gets on your nerves, intervals are pretty short haha).

I have noticed the intervals vary. Sometimes they come in relatively quick sequence, at other times quite a bit of time elapses between.

I remember the first time I moved the machine after I got it up and functioning, and it tilted. I had just recently completed the playfield swap, and finishing the testing for issues phase and then an idle game sitting in attract mode does the bwa-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha thing....

my reaction being WTF NOW!!!!

The remote volume control on the coin door is a 10K ohm potentiometer, correct?

Nope.
It's a 100 ohm 5 watt wirewound pot.
https://www.jameco.com/z/5W-PW-24H-20S-B100-Jameco-Valuepro-24mm-Linear-Taper-Wirewound-Potentiometer-100-Ohm-20-5W-1-4-D-Slotted-Round-Shaft-20mm-L_140514.html

Thanks, Quench.

Something long neglected on my FBII was the coin door. It was dirty with rust and a lot of dust in the coin rejection chute. The volume on the game is flaky. All sounds are working but I have a consistent issue with the volume 'adjusting' itself. I suspect the issue is with the S&T. I replaced the caps and pot on it a bit over three years ago, and ran into an issue with the traces for the onboard pot. Sent it off for repair and it's been fine, but that pot was always flaky, even before I took the soldering iron to the board. I may go with a new pot on the door anyway, I am assuming that what is on the door is probably 42 years old. Still have a little work to do on the left side, I didn't feel like tearing the whole thing down yesterday. As it was, it was a 2-3 hour job.

Anyway, my door looks much cleaner, and I even touched it up with some red paint, after cleaning the bigger pieces in an ultrasonic cleaner.
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Nice work.
You can open the original pot and give it a clean. There are four tabs holding it closed that you bend up a little so it disassembles.
Give all the swiping arms a little bend so they have more tension and clean the original gummed up grease you'll see.

Is both your sound effects and voices (everything) changing volume? If it is both, it's most likely not an issue with the pots on the board. If it's just sounds or voices, you can short out all three pins of that pot on the reverse side (piece of wire). This will set it at full volume. But... You can still use the other pot and the coin door to adjust the mix and main volume. I did this on one of my S&T boards. Or you can still just short one out to verify that it's a pot issue.

It's the overall volume, effects and voice. What is good for cleaning the door pot? 91% rubbing alcohol? Electronic cleaner?

geeteoh, one of your new sound boards is destined for this machine, I'm just trying to get as much mileage out of the S&T as I can. It's the last original stock board in the game, and I'm kind of sentimental about it, but.... all things come to an end eventually.

Finished cleaning the door today, took the front apart, the hinge inside was rusty as hell. Soaked it in the ultrasonic cleaner, then took a steel brush to it, followed by a session with my palm sander, 150 grit. Cleaned up real nice. Did the best I could with the door hinge, without taking it off the machine. Don't really want to go there. I recently replaced the skin on my Fireball coin door, and that's enough door work for the moment.

I did all that work, starting in 2018 with the playfield swap. All new connectors. Segregated the harness as best I could to cut down on the Little Demon firing on it's own. Cleaned up the steel and metal as best as possible, then just kind of left the coin door to languish in rust and dust LOL. It never gave me a problem. These things are tough, they don't make stuff like this anymore. This game saw some abuse during it's life, glad it's got a good home now.

I’d replace the coin door pot, but haven’t seen issues with them in the past. ChrisHibler is great at fixing S&T.

I have a bench grinder with a cloth buffing wheel. I then got some stick type buffing compound. Works great to bring most smaller metal items to chrome type finish. Even the heads of Home Depot leg bolt heads! I polished a coin box once with it. Took forever but came out great. Been pulling off the screws and bolts of my games one by one and polishing them.

Either cleaner will do. Once it's clean the pot will return to good service. Just remember to give the swiping arms a little more tension too.

Thanks guys, appreciate the tips.

Meant to post a few days ago. Got the pot cleaned. What was the purpose of that brown grease? Looks like it was put there deliberately.

It might have been a white lithium grease that turned brown from dust/dirt.
I don't bother replacing it, that way no gunk can build up again. This is a pot you usually set and forget so lubrication isn't important.

Any owners looking to fancy up their game with a nos playfield?

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