Fireball Classic
Bally, 1985I am restoring a Fireball Classic - 4 player digital. After I made the wire connections to the circuit boards, I noticed that there does not seem to be a connector for the pins on the top part of the MPU board. The lights on the table go on, but the digital lights do not - they did several years ago. Would appreciate your assistance,
Thanks
7300888E-FF93-4141-9947-847D7D35FB34 (resized).jpegAre you saying the GI (general illumination) is on but the controlled lamps do not ?
Does it boot up properly ? count the flashes on the MPU http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/ballyss/rep/index2.htm#flash
You will want to get rid of that battery on the MPU it doen't look like corrosion started yet. http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/ballyss/rep/index1.htm#battery
There isn't supposed to be any connector for the header pins on the top row of the MPU for this game 
Wow, thanks for the quick response. The only thing that lights up are the bulbs on the playfield. The scoring LEDs do not. MPU does not seem to boot up... no led on the MPU lights up. Is the MPU worth fooling with, or should I just buy a new one.
No flashes or even a flicker ?
check the test points on the power rectifier board in the bottom of the box with a multimeter http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/ballyss/rep/index1.htm#tp
the circuit board visually looks fine except that battery in known to eventually leak and destroy them ... I like the NVRAM's myself others replace with a capacitor or a remote battery holder
but get the game to boot up first
Did you use a meter to check the other fuses or did you just look at them? They really need to be checked with a meter.
What are the voltages at the test points that were mentioned in tbe above post?
Quoted from timab2000:Did you use a meter to check the other fuses or did you just look at them? They really need to be checked with a meter.
What are the voltages at the test points that were mentioned in the above post?
yeah I've had fuses that visually looked ok but didn't have continuity across them
it's best to check continuity with power off
Look at the chart for the test points , most are measured in DC voltage & another in AC voltage
You can list those here if they look different than the listed values
If all test points on the Rectifier board are correct THEN check the test points on the Solenoid Driver board ( upper right hand board in backbox ... A picture of that would be nice too 
) I would suspect you probably need to replace the 2 large capacitors on that board. http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/ballyss/rep/index1.htm#cap
There are test points on the MPU as well, can check those after the SDB. the LED light that flashes has a possibility to fail but unlikely
looking for a flicker then 7 flashes (count the flashes)
Ok, I found the F3 fuse was blown. I replace the first time and it blew, but I replaced again and now the game boots up. I’ll take it to the next level, but I’m sure I’ll be back with more questions.
Thanks for the help, everyone!
Howie B 
Ive got the MPU testing OK and then run through the self testing and fixed a couple of items.
During the contact test, it is showing contact #19 stuck. The documents show there are 2 #19 contacts on the playfield. I examined both and they look perfectly fine. Contacts not touching, wiring and electronics look fine.
See photo - I have a piece of blue tape on the 2 contacts.
Any suggestions?
DF492EC6-6047-40B0-933A-71EAAE822A5B (resized).jpegAgain thanks that worked! I got through all the self tests fine.
Game basically plays correctly so far.
Next question... The Digital displays test ok during the self diagnosis - cycle 0-9 on all the displays. However, they do not work during game play... do not keep the score as you play - seem to be random. When I turn the game on it looks like the high score is flashing on the 4 player’s displays but “24” and “44” displays in the credits and ball in play window, not sure what that means (See photo).
Any thoughts?
5A32C8C0-3BD8-4614-9F2E-81ABD5FCF376 (resized).jpegwow great backglass !!!
doesn't keep score as you play or doesn't keep high score to date ?
the battery (*coughs* that needs to be removed anyways) is whats supposed to keep all the bookkeeping functions ... http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/ballyss/rep/index1.htm#battery
the battery might be charged & charging just the info on the chip is corrupted ...
after the diagnostics (solonoid, lamps, switches, displays) ... are the bookkeeping function (refer to the manual) .... I think to clear a particular field to zero there is a button on the top of the MPU board ... the credit button adds value (say for the replay thresholds listed on the scorecard (can print some if needed 
http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/ )
During the diagnostics, the displays properly go from 0-9.
When I turn the machine on it displays as in the photo. I’m not sure what the 24 and 44 mean (credits?)
But when I start the game, the displays don’t seem to make any sense.
It looks like the playfield works during the game. Even the 3-balls (game can capture and release up-tp 3 balls during play) functions correctly.
FYI... I have all the original manuals.
Remove battery. Purchase NVRAM. Install NVRAM and clear all audit settings using reset button on MPU board.
Skidave. That did the trick! Removed battery and hit the reset on the MPU. Scoring during the game. seem to be working.
Thanks.
Quoted from HowieB:Skidave. That did the trick! Removed battery and hit the reset on the MPU. Scoring during the game. seem to be working.
Thanks.
Great, order a NVRAM and you'll never have to worry about this again.
Game was playing fine. New issue, just started. The game start button will not start a new game. The contact is good, the diagnostics recognizes switch 6 (game start) is engaged when I press it during the switch test.
Seems weird that it just stopped working. Any thoughts?
Does it have any credits? (don't ask me how I know to ask 
)
I would think with the battery snipped off you will have to add credits every time to start the machine until NVRAM is installed .... then you can set the replay value to 10,000 so there will always be a credit if you want "free-play"
There's a dip switch setting to change the preference from keeping locked balls from game to game like the origonal Fireball or kicking them out at the end of the game.
I'm not sure what it's supposed to do if you power it off then back on normally
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Kittery, ME
