(Topic ID: 133016)

Fireball Classic Club

By Atomicboy

8 years ago


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#6 8 years ago

Excellent game.

Too bad every single backglass is faded on these. They were amazing back in the day.

#8 8 years ago
Quoted from Atomicboy:

Is it a backglass?

If it's an original, it's a backglass.

I've have never seen an unfaded one since the 80s.

#11 8 years ago

CPR just did reproductions for the Fireball EM, but those usually have nice backglasses.

It was the Fireball Classics that all need glass.....

http://classicplayfields.com/photo177.html

1 year later
#23 7 years ago
Quoted from NinJaBooT:

My FBclassic I recently picked up is acting strange. Once you start a game it automatically starts scoring 10000 points repetitively? The game still plays but the scoring just keeps climbing by the 10000's. I think the left orb is the only thing on the game that scores 10k and the switches look fine. I did notice poking around underneath that all the capacitors on the switches have been clipped on one side? Should I re-solder them one?

Replace those caps with new ones, they will insure that fast ball strikes are registered.

Don't resolder the old ones, they always are bad.

Go into switch test to see which switch is stuck.

#25 7 years ago
Quoted from NinJaBooT:

Thanks Vid!
Why would someone clip one end off each one?

Bally had those terrible caps that after a few years they would start pulsing on and off.

A quick fix is to cut the cap - that gets the game working instantly; but not working correctly.

So at a pinball show, I'll cut someones cap to get the game back working through the weekend, but I tell them to be sure and buy a new cap.

If I have a playfield out for swap or repair, I always replace all the Bally switch caps at once.

100 caps for .90 cents:

http://www.taydaelectronics.com/capacitors/ceramic-disc-capacitors/10-x-0-047uf-50v-ceramic-disc-capacitor-pkg-of-10.html

2 months later
1 month later
#34 6 years ago

^I'd snip that battery off the MPU before it warms up and pukes.

When you take the plastics off the playfield, you can see the colored caps where some of the 555 bulbs had color in the GI.

You have the best backglass I've ever seen. This game must have been stored in a dark basement or something for the last 40 years! Be careful, it's worth more than your entire game.

#41 6 years ago
Quoted from phil-lee:

So the game will work (sans Bookkeeping functions) if I just cut the battery off?

Attach a remote battery pack or replace the ram module with nvRAM.

#46 6 years ago
Quoted from phil-lee:

You wouldn't happen to know how much voltage this battery should put out for proper operation?

Three 1.5v AA batteries will be fine.

Do a search here for "remote battery pack" for full instructions

#49 6 years ago

Warm White LEDs will look good with the warm color pallet of the game.

Color match the inserts, but remember some of them will flicker unless you add a resistor or get a new lamp driver board.

3 years later
#72 3 years ago
Quoted from wotan85:

Anyone know how to change from 5 ball to 3 ball on a fireball classic?

Turn power off!

On the MPU board, switch #32 and #31 must both be set to OFF

Turn power on

Play in 3 ball mode

8 months later
#77 2 years ago

If bally wanted to save a few pennies, they would not have installed a knocker assembly in the game in the first place.

Before you replace the driver transistor, make sure the knocker coil and diode is good.

Otherwise, you'll blow the new transistor instantly again.

#79 2 years ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

I have seen this before, what they call a "running change" where half the change is done and the other half is not for one reason or another.
There is no transistor on the board at all and the board tags match the game.

That's interesting, we'll see if anyone else reports the same.

For another data point, I've got a FBC game, with original boards & tags (-35 MPU), and it still has it's factory Motorola driver transistor for the knocker.

Id have to have my niece look at the cab and see what range the serial number is, but I know the lamp and solenoid boards are white.

#84 2 years ago

I know it thunks when you roll over @ 9,999,999

But I can't think of the other standard thunking scores.

I think it's one of those Bally where you have to turn on the awards to "03" with the coin door switch. Maybe setting number 15,16 or 17?

#86 2 years ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

I tried that before discovering the driver was not on the solenoid board.
Simply have to wait for my next Mouser order as I have no 330 ohm resistors in stock.

You can steal one from one of the unused solenoid driver channels

Then run the solenoid test, and see if she fires

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