I agree with Borygard, however I if u don't have or know how to use a DMM, I would look at all ur fuses. I believe there is a fuse under the playfield that runs all those solnoids, the tricky thing is it may look ok but still be blown which will take you back to what Borygard said and you'll need to vet a DMM. But my money is on a blown fuse either under playfield or in back box. But then the question will be why did the fuse blow?

This exact thing just happened to me on my F14 and I posted a thread about it within the last month. I think it was a bad TIP that was grounding to short. Let me look up my old post and check the schematics for your game...Ill be back I a sec

This is what my problem was its a bit diff. but I believe going to be the same solution.

"Just wanted to log a repair for everyone. My F14's pop bumber quit working. I found that the 2.5 slo-blo fuse under the playfield was blown, I replaced it and immediately blew the fuse again. I then found that the slingshots also not working. All three of these are connected via a RED/WHITE wire. I test each coil and found they were all shorting to ground. I started at the pop and was lucky to find that the blue/violet wire was the culprit. Traced the problem back to the TIP 122 @ Q69. Replaced the TIP and fuse again, and I am back up and running. I think problem was mis-adjusted leaf switch, causing the pop coil to stay locked on. (i just got the machine so I hadn't noticed that)"

Ah just turn machine off and start testing the TIP's the one that is reading diff. from the other is the one shorting to ground. You can do all fairly quickly and I don't feel like looking at schematics right now got to pack for the OHIO show!!!. But something caused that TIP to blow. So look at all your solenoids and make sure the are all adjusted properly and that one is permanently stuck closed. i.e. your EOS switch. Pops swiches or bad Diode on a coil? Here's a Link http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/859/Williams_1987_Fire_Instruction_Manual.pdf