(Topic ID: 148119)

Fire and Blood...Game of Thrones Premium/LE club

By Trekkie1978

4 years ago

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Topic index (key posts)

2 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #1088 HOTK strategies. Posted by Eskaybee (2 years ago)

Post #1479 Code 1.36 Release Notes Posted by chuckwurt (6 months ago)

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#27 3 years ago

Picking up my Premium on Saturday. Sitting in CT warehouse. Stupid work meetings kept me from leaving today or tomorrow.

#56 3 years ago

Tell me more about those speaker lights. They look great in Blue.

#66 3 years ago

Does anyone else think the pop bumpers on GoT are a bit anemic? Not very sensitive or powerful. I've had a several balls simply roll right thru without a single pop.

I have not looked at these yet, and traveling this week (with brand new Premium sitting at home - argh!). I tweaked the pops in my JP with new spoons and adjusted switches - they are now crazy active and I love it! Are the adjustments on these pops similar to those on my JP?

#78 3 years ago

I had an odd issue tonite. After several hours of play, then a short break, my Premium was exhibiting very strange behaviour - the sound of a clashing sword was consistently playing no matter what was happening in the game. This was not familiar and terribly annoying.

I removed the glass and started a game to see if I could diagnose the issue. I quickly noticed the slightest tap with my hand on the upper or main playfield, even the cabinet, would register 30pts and play that clashing sword sound, every single tap.

I went into switch diagnostics and tapped the playfield. Switch 86 was inadvertently firing (right sling, upper playfield). A manual tap on the sling produced a 30pt score and that now annoying sound. I regapped the switch slightly with my finger as I could not get my leaf switch tool into the tight space. The switch now registers normal ball hits, but not inadvertent shocks to the playfield.

Easy enough.

#86 3 years ago

Every time I reach for the flipper buttons on my Premium, I think about how this area could wear and just look crappy over time.

The Stern side armor would surely provide all the protection needed, but I find them a bit too large and bulky looking. I had seen another much smaller variant somewhere recently, but I'm unable to locate the page now.

Sound familiar to anyone?

#89 3 years ago

Short of applying the Stern side armor, any suggestions to protect the flipper button area from light-duty wear and greasy fingers?

I was thinking some sort of non-adhesive (cling) material, but no clue what might work here.


#92 3 years ago

Lollipop side rails - that's the ticket! I had seen these but had no clue where, or what they were called. $60 = that's more like it.


#93 3 years ago

Next up - For Premium owners:

Anyone replace the stock BLACK rubbers with something else? I'm thinking WHITE might be a good fit, maybe translucent? BLUE might be too much.

Suggestions or picture would be appreciated!

#96 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Just bought these. $60 bucks. pretty cheap, and they blend in great.

Chuck, do you recall if these rails came with screws?

#101 3 years ago

Erik, can you take a quick photo?

#116 3 years ago

For the skilled players, a question:

How do you typically manage shots trapped on the flippers, under control (I'm able to trap and pass pretty reliably)?

My issue - Lately I've been hitting nothing but bricks off the stand-up targets. I've been playing with glass off a few times to try and improve these shots, but not sure the most reliable approach.

Do you suggest:

1. Simple timing - release then hit on some 1-2 type count?
2. Position of the ball on the flipper - release then hit when ball is @ midpoint, or near the tip, etc.?
3. Muscle memory - See the ball, hit the ball!
4. Take up tiddly-winks, this game is not for you!

I had been doing pretty well, but seems like I am getting worse:

1. Left orbit from left flipper - I can hit this about 80%+ using a quick 1-2 count
2. Right orbit and right ramp from left flipper - I've had some success hitting the ball just as it crosses the dragon's head on the playfield near the drain, but this is not very reliable.
3. Left orbit from right flipper - not very reliable at all
4. Left ramp (kicker) from right flipper - no consistency here yet
5. Center ramp from right flipper - I had been hitting this like 90%, but something has changed - flipper strength or my cadence. I am now ONLY hitting the right-side stand-up target - makes me crazy

Anyone care to share their approach? Any tips to help me improve my meager skills?

Then comes moving ball shots - a whole OTHER issue!

#119 3 years ago
Quoted from Erik:

Watch Keith's video if you haven't already.
Much like golf, you are also going to want to find the correct blood alcohol content. It's a delicate balance.

I watched that video. Was very helpful, especially noting when a ball is in freefall heading toward a flipper, he doesn't always flip it. Often he'll simply let the ball bounce over to the opposite flipper. That is not my normal reflex/instinct, but it's a nice way to control the ball. I'm trying to add that approach to the mix.

As for blood alcohol content, I think I play better, or maybe I care less.

#128 3 years ago

Added Lolipop Side Armor and Premium Art Blades today. Very happy with the result:


#131 3 years ago
Quoted from bhwolf:

Looks good, Mark. Just got my art blades today -- a little different than I was expecting (thinner, thought it would be rigid). Did you remove the playfield to install, or just lift it up?

I was by myself, but did manage to get the playfield out - I think pretty much necessary, especially around the upper playfield with no space for fingers.

I did it as a bit of a cheat - I never lifted the full weight. I first pulled the playfield out, up to the normal rubber feet on the supports and rested it on the lockdown bar. Then I dragged over my workbench stool, which is on wheels, and pulled the playfield out a bit further and tilted & rested the support bars on the seat of the stool. I then lifted the back end of the playfield and pushed forward against the stool until the back-most coil frame rested on the lockdown bar. The playfield was now suspended between the lockbar and the stool - fully out of the way.

Attaching the blade was pretty simple. I was able to get a 2nd try on one of them with no issue due a very minor misalignment. I did not press the blade down tight until I was happy with the result.

#133 3 years ago

I'm thinking of replacing a few of the GI bulbs to frosted LEDs. Occasionally, some the clear bulbs will be visible as I am playing. I find them just a bit harsh.

I have a handful of Comet NG frosted warm white - but these may be too warm for the Premium winter theme. I'll try it out and see. Else, Art may have a fresh order coming.

#144 3 years ago

I made a ~$3 Pwr Switch mod tonite, after a quick trip to Radio Shack (25A Automotive SPST Rocker Switch - a nice tight fit in the 1" diameter Tournament knockout). My wife has not seen yet, but she and her short arms will thank me!



#146 3 years ago
Quoted from markp99:

I made a ~$3 Pwr Switch mod tonite, after a quick trip to Radio Shack (25A Automotive SPST Rocker Switch - a nice tight fit in the 1" diameter Tournament knockout). My wife has not seen yet, but she and her short arms will thank me!

I must admit, this simple mod is the single BEST thing I've done to my GoT so far. It is quite enjoyable to simply step up to the machine, flip the switch without reaching and play a few quick games. Then flick it off and walk away.

So, was more like $12 after all:

xx 1. SPST Rocker Switch - Radio Shack: 275-0730 - $3.49 xx - replaced, see below
2. 1/4" Quick Disconnects - Radio Shack: 6403049 - $2.49 (8 pack)
3. 14AWG Stranded Wire - Lowes: 55667121 - ~$5.84 (20 ft)



Edit: Replaced the switch with a properly rated 125V 16A DPDT - drop-in replacement!

DigiKey: EG4770-ND

#148 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

I have these on all my games
amazon.com link »

Too easy. If you can't take out your wire strippers, crimp tool and zip ties, what fun is that? I was a bit disappointed no soldering iron or heatshrink tubing was needed on this one.

#155 3 years ago

I've had the LOL bank reset kick the ball upward against the glass with a WHACK! - a few times!

#159 3 years ago

Question -

Is there any kind of coating/film on the LEDs in the backbox?

I removed the backglass last night and noticed a slightly different color on a couple of the LEDs. The two upper left LEDs had a slightly BLUE tint compared to the rest.

I brushed my finger over the remaining LEDs on the left hand side and notice I was knocking off a crusty film from each one - with no resistance whatsoever. The LEDs all seem to now have the same color/tone. I found the same crusty film on the right hand side as well. The residue I knocked off was no larger than a large grain of salt/sugar, with a similar consistency.

Maybe this is some sort of protective film applied at the factory? I had though maybe this was an attempt to warm the color of the somewhat harsh LEDs (?)

Anyone see this? Did I ruin something??

1 week later
#181 3 years ago
Quoted from Willy39:

I checked out the website. There was nothing on there stating a shooter lane kit specifically made for GOT. I emailed him to see.

Willy, please let us know what you find out with Cliffy... Curious here too!

#186 3 years ago
Quoted from Willy39:

Yes he does have them in stock but not on the website yet. I don't know the price but he is sending my a Paypal invoice to pay. You can email him at crinear@comcast.net.

Thx Willy!

#191 3 years ago

That's the topside edge of the DMD display itself, illuminated from above by the backbox LEDs. The display is about 0.25 inch thick and is white in color, all the way around.

I suppose you could mask the topside of the DMD (strip of cardboard, etc.) where the light is entering, or paint/sharpie the white topside of the DMD a black color to be less reflective.

Now that you've mentioned this, I will not be able to un-see it myself until I add some masking. Thanks!

#195 3 years ago
Quoted from gripwhip:

Thanks for the explanation. Let me know if you do any masking and how it turns out.

Simple, 5 minute job.

1. I used a hard-card "slash folder" I had lying around (would have preferred a dark color, but red is fine).
2. Cut to 16" to provide a little mask overhang on the edges, 1.5" wide, folded in half.
3. Cut 3/8" deep slots to match the DMD board protector slots.
4. Punched 3 holes in the ~correct location
5. Fitted under the DMD board protector.
6. No more LED light bleeding onto the DMD



#197 3 years ago
Quoted from Esoteric_rt:

Before you install maybe check the position of the weights on the shaker.
When I put mine in GOT, the weights were at 180 degrees from each other and the shaking was way too much...
I used an allen key and changed the position to 90 degrees and it feels just right

If you do adjust the location of the weights, be sure to CHECK the final position of the weights along the axis. The weights should spin freely without interference.

I modified mine to something like 135 deg, just the right amount of shake for me. Love it!

#203 3 years ago

Martell 90% of the time

1 week later
#216 3 years ago

Nice idea. Not a fan of the spots in their current location.

#220 3 years ago
Quoted from labnip:

Those factory set outlane posts are a real bitchola !!

Tell me about it. I'm still looking for the setting that turns down the electromagnetic outlane attractors!

#258 3 years ago
Quoted from centerflank:

I like these Spike accessory Power boards

What are your plans for the accessory board?

I grabbed a cheap 48V to 12V/5V converter off ebay. When it arrives I plan to tinker a little bit. My plan is to add LED strips to the translite perimeter. Yes, underpowered a bit @5V on a 6.3V strip. Currently, I am bringing in 5V via an old cell phone wallwart on the 110V switched backbox outlet I added this week. Hopefully someone will bring a nice 6.3V accessory option to market.

#317 3 years ago
Quoted from labnip:

Time to get a black marker & color the top edge of this dmd

I fixed this in just a few minutes - no sharpie needed


#323 3 years ago

After many days & weeks of pure frustration, I managed to cross 1B for the very first time tonite! Funny thing is, I only had 30M going into Ball 3, then I killed it! Martel > Greyjoy > BWMB. I had a few very nice games earlier today - seems like the shots are finally clicking for me.


Side note - I am totally pleased withe additional lighting I put into the backbox behind the translite. Brightens & warms the permiter beyond what the SPIKE LEDs can do on their own. Comet warm-white strips. BIG difference for me!

2 weeks later
#344 3 years ago

I've mentioned this issue before. I am failing to register nice clean right orbit shots, like Extra Ball and Mystery. It's driving me crazy.

Just now I had a very nice ball 3 going, reached HOTK, then Winter Has Come. Extra Ball and Mystery were lit and I actually hit the right orbit cleanly from the right flipper for the ~first time. The ball rolled right thru, but only enabled Winter is Coming on that shot, not awarding Extra Ball or Mystery. I did not manage to hit the right ramp again before draining ball 3. Scored 1.7B - not bad for me

I've adjusted the rollover switch in the right orbit to be very sensitive. In Switch Test mode, this switch never misses. Still, I miss a ton of Mystery shots - not 100%, but way too many.

Do you think there is some other switch in combination acting here I am just not hitting? Maybe a timing issue? How about the right orbit gate above the in-lane bumpers...anything up there? Shouldn't the diverter have kicked the ball into the elevator for Mystery - maybe the diverter is flaky, now from the right?

I wish I could get to the bottom of this. Makes me CRAZY!

#346 3 years ago

Curious, what SCOOP you are referring to? There's the left and right orbit gates up top and then the diverter arm into the elevator. If Mystery is lit, seems like the diverter should kick the ball over. Maybe getting there too fast or too slow to be kicked?

The last orbit shot described above was a very solid shot. Not a rocket my any means, but certainly not a dribbler.

#350 3 years ago
Quoted from Trekkie1978:

What happens when you launch a ball? Is it going into the elevator and to the upper playfield?
If that isn't working, then you definitely have an issue with the diverted arm not opening.

The diverter arm is working just fine in diagnostics. When I launch, the ball will go to the upper playfield about ~50% of the time. I had presumed this was not supposed to be a 100% thing; rather, dependent upon which mode/ball was in play.

Just played with the glass off - never missed the mystery shot. Ugh. Then glass on - missed it twice in a row with the ball continuing thru and exiting from the left orbit. Seems if the the diverter arm had opened on the Mystery switch the ball would have bumped into the elevator assy and trickled back down into the pops, vs making it all the way around. The only common thread I can see is WIC is ready to be lit, or is lit when this happens.

The right orbit is a challenge for me to hit consistently - when I do hit it - I WANT TO TAKE CREDIT!!

#354 3 years ago
Quoted from Trekkie1978:

I don't think I understood your response. When the glass is off, is the ball going into the elevator on the extra ball or mystery?

When glass is off and Mystery is lit, the ball reaches the elevator 100%. With glass on, in real game, when Mystery is lit, I am seeing many misses.

As noted above, I think I may have noticed WIC is ready to be lit ir is lit when these misses happen. Maybe I'll poke around some more with the glass off (I do get great scores that way! )

#355 3 years ago

With glass off, and Mystery or EB lit,

1. Each press of the right orbit switch opens the L&R Gates and opens the diverter arm.
2. Letting go of the switch closes the gates and the diverter arm
3. I could toggle the diverter & gates over and over without a ball passing thru
4. So, there is a time element, after you rollover the right orbit switch for the ball to reach the elevator in-time
5. On one occasion, I did press the right orbit switch and saw the diverter arm open, but the Gates did NOT also open. The ball hit the gate and trickled into the pops

I could not reproduce the issue. Grrr...

#358 3 years ago
Quoted from 85vett:

Do you have the left orbit mod in your game? Your experience is exactly what I had when I had it in. Just that small lip got the ball off track for me and it was missing that shot a lot. Took it off and now get smooth orbits again but left orbit is bad again.
Another thing to look at is the control gates. My left one was interfering with the back ball guide. I had to trim the bracket to allow my ball guide to be flush again.

I do have the diverter mod installed, and I get great left orbits.

It did occur to me that this might be a contributing factor for this issue. Easy enough to remove and try it out. I think I would trade away smooth left orbits for Mystery and Extra Balls!

Might be related to the left-right position of the diverter mod. I did find moving the mod a bit to the LEFT did improve the smoothness of the left orbits, but maybe this provides just enough interference to cause right orbit shots to miss the elevator and exit the left orbit. Maybe shifting to the right would help.


#361 3 years ago

I spent time tonite to poke around to see if I could improve my right orbit shot registration issue (been terrible) -


1. Removed the diverter mod

2. Enlarged the diverter assy mtg holes with a stepper bit and pushed the assy forward ever so slightly.

3. I noticed a bur was forming on the leading edge of the left lane guide - where the diverter arm meets the guide. The ball would BOUNCE when it encountered this transition point in BOTH directions. I removed the bur with a dremel wheel to make perfectly flush with the diverter arm


1. I am getting very consistent fast and smooth left orbit shots. YAY!

2. Better still, I registered all but ONE Mystery/EB shot to the right lane! DOUBLE YAY!

3. I'd call this a pretty good success!

Other issues:

1. I found a chunk of broken plastic up near the diverter arm - maybe 1/4in x 1/4in square, blue color with printing on it. I inspected for a bit but could NOT locate which plastic was broken. Nothing obvious jumped out at me anywhere.

2. As I removed the upper playfield and ramps, then the large plastic sheet, I noticed a nice crack on the leading edge of what would be the cover of the Dragon Kickback lane, about 3/4in long. I added a mylar patch folded over the leading edge near the crack with hopes this would add padding to the leading edge of this large plastic sheet, and also help the crack from propagating. None of this is visible and its tucked under the upper playfield. I think I'll fabricate a sacrificial protector strip from acrylic sheet and mount just under the full leading edge.

3. Nearly every mounting hole in the ramp optos were stripped. I could only just barely get any resistance when tightening the screws. I'll address this next time I get under the hood.

4. Found the rubber bumper for the Dragon coil in the bottom of the cabinet.

5. Titan White sling rubbers were wearing badly on the bottom corner near the flippers - chewed-up and narrowing. I did not have any spares so I simply rotated the rubber to put the wear spots around back, facing the outlanes. Time for another order, I guess.

#374 3 years ago

This is a pic of the broken chunk-o-plastic. I inspected again just now - nothing obvious - looks the pointy end of something. The left edge of the chuck is what appears to be broken; the right sloping and bottom edges are smooth (factory). Maybe it does come from underneath the upper playfield.

I will give Stern a call and see if they'd be open to a replacement of the large sheet.


#377 3 years ago


I thought for sure you nailed with that last picture. However, I stuck my finger thru the diverter arm slot - there is no jagged edge on the tip of that plastic. Looking at the little chunk-o-plastic, the color is a perfect match, but the angles are wrong. This is coming from somewhere else.

I'm not overly motivated to remove the upper playfield just to inspect - unless Stern offers to send me a replacement sheet.

Nothing is visible anywhere at all, so I guess, "out of sight, out of mind."

#379 3 years ago

Mystery solved:

As I was removing the upper playfield once more to provide a picture of the crack in the large plastic (at Chas' request), I did confirm the chuck-o-plastic definitely did not come from there.

So, I poked around some more and did find the source - the plastic that surrounds the lower pop bumper, where the plastic shield attaches (bracket removed here). Took a picture for Chas as well.


Here's the crack in the leading edge of the left ramp plastic:


#380 3 years ago

Replacement plastics on the way.

#401 3 years ago
Quoted from 85vett:

If I could get my orbits to be as smooth as a pro then I would be a real happy camper as right now, that is the only plus to playing to pro for me.

85vett, I am getting consistently GREAT left orbits lately! Fast and smooth all the way through. Not sure how they compare to a Pro, but it is very satisfying to hit 3 left orbits in quick succession from the right flipper! Left, Left, Left - Yes!!

1> Removed the upper in-lane bumper rubbers and replaced with heatshrunk coil sleeves.

2> Enlarged the mounting holes in the diverter arm assy (below the playfield), permitting and ever-so-slightly forward positioning of the diverter arm. +1 step on my stepper drill bit.

3> I can confirm the left orbits I get now are much more consistent/faster than I previously got with the bracket mod, and right orbits are perfectly consistent!

I did have capgun's diverter bracket mod installed and was getting good left orbits, but did ultimately notice I was NOT hitting Mystery and Extra Ball shots consistently from the right. Seems the bracket was causing right orbit shots to bounce past the elevator entryway. I am certain I could have re-tweaked the position of the bracket to allow success on both left and right orbits, but I wanted to try another path first.

Again, the bracket mod seems fairly sensitive to left-right position relative to the diverter arm assy. I am confident additional tweaking would have gotten me to a similar end-point - but, was just a bit of a pain in the butt to adjust without removing the upper playfield - trivial with it off, but the upper playfield removal process is a bit of a pain all on its own.

I had thought to wait for Stern's fix (?), but this combination was reasonably simple to implement.

#424 3 years ago
Quoted from Trekkie1978:

Code 1.29 is up.
I love Dwight.

I'm a Dwight fan too, but... He's got some 'splainin to do!

- Added Adjustment to disable orbiting from left to right. This will be ON by
default on the LE/PREMIUM. All left orbit balls will go to the pop
bumpers by design.

This does not make me happy!

#427 3 years ago
Quoted from Trekkie1978:

Is this their fix?
I'm guessing I'm one of the few where the orbit shot works perfectly.

Yep, but you will no longer get nice LEFT orbits in v1.29, unless you turn that feature OFF! They'll go into the pops 100% by default. The pops really eat clock in hurry ups - often I want the ball back pronto!!

I just played a few games just now (v1.26). I had several perfectly clean LEFT - LEFT orbits, nice and fast to the right flipper. Did not hit the elusive LEFT - LEFT - LEFT, but I'll take what I got!

My scores have drastically improved lately; I am hitting 1B to 2B pretty regularly (with a few 30M drainfests in between for good measure).

#428 3 years ago

I'm not motivated to make this update. I trust turning that feature OFF will allow me to retain my LEFT orbits; we shall see.

My primary fear is future updates may eliminate support for the OFF option altogether - as it's no longer "by design".

#430 3 years ago
Quoted from swampfire:

Wait, really? Every Stern I own stops the clock on HUs when the ball is stuck in the pops.

Guessing I may be wrong on this; assumed clock was still ticking...

#434 3 years ago
Quoted from kermit24:

One thing about the code update: if you enable left orbit, your scores will be less since you are not going to get as many pop awards. So you will be at a disadvantage when compared to default settings.

It's a trade-off, I guess. I'd rather have the ball back sooner, to permit me a quicker opportunity to hit the next shot in the flow. Plus, it just feels so sweet to have the ball ripping around the orbits...just like SR intended!

1 week later
#470 3 years ago


I've been starting with Martell lately, and will play the mode as soon as I can, even before BWMB. I am able to hit the 3 orbit shots well enough, but have some mental block collecting with the center ramp shot before time runs out.

I've often noticed, even without hitting the center ramp in time, House Martell registers as complete. Is this expected? I thought that last center ramp shot was mandatory?

Note: There are many times when I am shooting for the left dragon or right ramps and cannot MISS the easy center ramp - so I am not sure what it is about Martell that causes me to lose that muscle memory.


UPDATE: Looking at the WIKI, the final ramp shot is NOT mandatory, only adds bonus points. SO, now with pressure OFF, I'll be hitting that last ramp shot with my eyes closed.

#476 3 years ago
Quoted from swampfire:

His opinion may have been colored by the fact that I switched my game over to warm white frosted LEDs. I should have done some before/after pics.

On my Premium, I replaced the original clear lens LEDs with frosted sunlight from Comet - not quite as warm as warm white but a tad warmer than the originals. The original LEDs were much too harsh on my eyes IMO, especially the ones where I could see the bulbs.

I'm quite happy with my result.

1 week later
#513 3 years ago

Yep, good idea. Lined mine wherever the ball makes contact, including the back wall and lip.

Now, if i could control the black dust from the upper playfield flippers that rains down into the orbit/ramps I'd be happy. I'm always wiping down those areas.

#553 3 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

Secondly, dont start any house modes until you start a multiball - then stack 2 together. After multiball, clean up the house modes that you didnt finish. By this time you should have 2 houses completed and hopefully 2 or ready to go at which point you have to decide whether to play 1 house or 2 houses on single ball.

When I launch as Martell, I usually play that mode alone before multiball. The orbit shots are pretty easy and safe to hit even without LOL lit.

Stark is also OK to play solo, as you can get on a nice roll hitting the center ramp over and over and over, collecting Arya's list, without 3-4 other balls getting in the way.

Never play Lannister without LOL; you are guaranteed to drain off the friggin standup targets!

Baratheon, Lannister, Tyrell & Targarian are great in multiball as the shots are tougher (for me) to hit on purpose. I seem to do OK hitting via the random collisions of multiball!

#554 3 years ago

Hey, I was in LA this weekend visiting my son. We went to play at Eighty Two, downtown. The place was mobbed and rocking midday on a Sunday. 100% of the machines were in play. A few had mobs of onlookers and quarters stacked on the glass. $0.50 plays were awesome!

I finally got to play a GoT Pro and really did enjoy the flow! I was disappointed to see the extra ball insert located on the dragon kickback shot - which I totally suck at! On the Premium, EB is on the right Orbit - much more reliable for me.

I never did get a chance on GB - one guy was totally hogging the machine

#560 3 years ago
Quoted from swampfire:

This is a small thing, but I really love it when I complete the 3 targets on the upper playfield, and then I hit one of the "rear exit" switches softly enough to get the ball back. It feels like cheating the game.

Skill shot! Just like a soft backhand up the left ramp, scores on the way up and on the way back! Sweet.

#583 3 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

How in the world could some non Pinhead walk up to this game put .50 in and even have a chance at understanding it.

Just keeping the ball alive for a good bit of time should allow you to at least reach BWMB - this is good fun all on its own, and is what got me sinking more quarters before really knowing the rules.

#601 3 years ago
Quoted from Trekkie1978:

Can't speak for others, but I plan on playing a lot GOT this weekend.

I'm in!

#602 3 years ago

Anyone know the gauge of the wires used in the Spike system for RGB lighting? 24 or 26 AWG?

I only have 22 AWG and larger in my workshop. I want to order some and want to get a comparable sized wire.

24AWG = 0.02010 in
26AWG = 0.01590 in

I grabbed my calipers and poked around under the playfield, but could not find any bare wire to measure and did not want to muck with stripping a sample to measure.

Anyone know?

#605 3 years ago

I found a new skill shot:

I was able to collect an Extra Ball from the upper playfield. Nice!

While EB is lit, all you need to do is hit the ball back into the elevator from above, at the far right hand corner - and presto: "Extraa Ballll !" /hound

#609 3 years ago

...I coulda been a condenda in that tournament!

#623 3 years ago
Quoted from Trekkie1978:

Has anyone gone back to rewatch the beginning of the series?

Yes, a couple of times. Each time I pick up more details!

1 week later
#660 3 years ago
Quoted from Trekkie1978:

Not all machines need that fix. Play your machine first before installing it.

Yes, remove the inlane rubbers first as described in the Left Orbit Fix thread and test. (replace with coil sleeves cut to length & heat shrink sleeve).

If you do install the diverter fix, you should note the left-right position of the mod can produce different results. Too far left or too far right will still fail left orbits, or then start affecting the right orbits. It may take a couple re-positionings to get it perfect.

I had it dialed-in for a bit, but then noticed I was missing a lot of right orbit shots to the throne - the diverter fix was causing the ball to bounce past the elevator. I removed the mod, then performed the enlarged diverter bracket hole fix. I am now getting very very good left orbits, and zero missed right elevator shots with the diverter removed.

I've actually hit 3 successive Left orbit shots (Left-Left-Left) from the right flipper - nice and smooth all the way around - several times. This week I actually hit FOUR left orbits in a row. Perfect@ without the diverter mod!

Good luck!

1 week later
1 week later
#682 3 years ago
Quoted from Dewey68:

My VUK now won't shoot the ball to the habitrail for the iron throne now. It fires repeatedly and will finally make it after the 10th try or so but the mystery is timed out by then. Looks like I'll be doing some tweaking Monday. Guess I'll be tweaking the diverter gate then.

Have you added washers under the screw heads for the VUK screws? The screws are just a tad too long and can interfere with the ball. This might be an easy thing to check.

#697 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinbally_1968:

Hi all,
Does anyone know where switch ''up left 10pt'' is located? It is gives 30 points and triggers an (unknown) sound. It reacts/ registers on vibrations, like when the flipper is used. See picture, it is the switch representation left of the +.
Thanks in advance!

That would be SW #85, upper playfield - the left vertical sling. I have adjusted its neighbor, SW #86, twice already to avoid unwanted switch hits on any sort of vibration. I just pushed-back the switch a bit with my fingertip, but still registers ball hits properly.

#711 3 years ago

At Pintastic this weekend, Steve Ritchie spoke volumes about the GoT left orbit debacle - with no words.

During his 2:30 seminar, someone asked Steve to comment on his favorite pinball shots (#1 - AC/DC Bell). At the end of that discussion, Steve noted how disappointed he was with how the whole left orbit thing on GoT was resolved. He finished with, "I won't say any more about that." Then, after a slight pause, "I can't say any more about that."

I guess we all know it was a Stern decision not to fix the issue, beyond Steve Ritchie's control. There was small satisfaction to hear that from the designer himself.

I wanted to catch Steve off line and let him know that my left orbit is working just fine with a couple very simple adjustments, but I figured he'd had enough on this topic, and let him enjoy the many friendly greetings he deserved.

#720 3 years ago
Quoted from Dewey68:

May have to add a speed bump to the habitrail.

Or, pad/dampen the landing zone on the throne. Capguntrooper had sent out nicely cut sticky-back pads to apply to the base of the throne where the ball lands. I've only had 1 or 2 unexpected bounce outs in several hundred plays.

Might be worth asking if he has more of these available, else maybe you can make something similar yourself.

#728 3 years ago
Quoted from Dewey68:

A doughnut of that would work.

More a horseshoe shape to permit the throne eject mechanism to function.

#731 3 years ago

There are 2 in-lanes up there and they behave as you would expect in relation to the inserts and flipper toggles. They're just obscured by the ramps & throne.

1 month later
#796 3 years ago

I cannot backhand the right ramp from right flipper on my LE. Very snappy flippers.

1 week later
#846 3 years ago

I keep clicking the GoT SW update page, expecting to see v1.34, but v1.29 persists.


Common Dwight, finish it it up and let it go!

#851 3 years ago

Sorry, v1.34 = Whimsy. v1.29 skipped a couple digits too.

#858 3 years ago
Quoted from BigBangBack:

Couldn't afford the $500 stern topper, so I got a $10 one


2 months later
#916 3 years ago

^ Listen to the boob. I am extremely happy with my Prem. The left orbit thing is quite easy to correct.

Good luck and enjoy!

1 month later
#964 2 years ago
Quoted from smassa:

I've played 3 and they are iffy at best. Problem you get is by tweaking the orbit to help from shots to the left orbit effects the reliability of the right orbit shots working well and sticking in the mystery shot. I'm happy for those that like their LE/premium but to me there are too many negatives that come along with it that made the pro the no brained way to go.

Huh, my left orbit adjustments had zero effect on right orbit functions (enlarged mtg hole approach).

I did notice capgun's diverter option could affect right orbits if not properly fitted, or moved over time. I removed the diverter and went with the enlarge mtg hole approach. I consistently can hit 2-3 consecutive left orbits...left-left-left. Very nice.

1 month later
#1034 2 years ago
Quoted from Trekkie1978:

But at least he can't pronounce some of the names properly lol

Wait, it's not "Tar-gar-garian"?

2 years later
#1413 6 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

my plan of attack is the drill method. Please let me know if that’s a bad idea.

Dirt simple using a stepper drill bit. Literally a 5-10 minute job once you remove the assy. I am able to hit successive orbits (Left, Left, Left) - maybe not quite as smooth or as fast as the Pro orbits, but very satisfying.

Oh, and welcome to the dark side.

#1415 6 months ago


A few notes:

1. Enlarged the diverter arm assy mtg holes +1 step (now a shade larger than a 3/16" drill bit, but not quite 13/64"). Slid the assy ever so slightly *toward the front* of the machine. The collar on the assy will hit the playfield edge, limiting the range of adjustment. The bracket material is soft as butter.


2. Removed the upper in-lane bumper rubbers and replaced with trimmed & heatshrunk coil sleeves. Easy, reduces ball interference.

3. Over time, I noticed a small burr was forming along the leading edge of the diverter arm. Smoothed with a dremel tool. Ball bounces due to the burr are now eliminated.

1 week later
#1483 6 months ago

That's all?

#1520 6 months ago

I have 1.29 on my thumb drive. Let me know if you'd like a copy.

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