Having a problem with my GOT. After each ball launch as the ball enters the upper PF all the flippers die briefly, then they die again after the ball exits the upper PF as soon as it reaches the inlane switch. They die briefly during game play otherwise as well but at these two times they ALWAYS die.

Checked the integrity of all connectors with no luck and ran a diagnostics test of all node boards with no error messages.

I do get a tech alert to check the tilt pendulum switch, but the tilt works just fine and I assume this message is unrelated. Bad assumption?

Any ideas are welcome. I'm really stumped.

I've gone to the stern website to try to download the game code for GOT Premium, but it doesn't give me the option--it just takes me to "Related Posts" page:

https://sternpinball.com/support/game-code/game-of-thrones-premium-game-code/

Anyone able to help?

GOT it. Operator error as usual. Thanks!

Okay, sorry to be a nag again but I'm still having problems downloading the GOT Premium code. For some reason it's just not downloading as a file that I can unzip--even though when I download my JP Premium code it does download as a file that I can unzip. For the GOT code, I've tried downloading it in three different browsers with no luck. Can someone please upload the GOT Premium code for me to a cloud from where I can download it?

Skip that last message. I called Stern and they said that the file did not need to be unzipped (even though the Read Me file says it does), so I'm attempting to update the code with the .spk file. Sorry.

Thanks so much. I'll take a look. I did a code update and checked all connectors and wires again, but still no change.

Yes, all four flippers die simultaneously.

Tried all the advice above but with no change. All red node board and backbox LED lights flash like crazy after the game boots, which I assume is incorrect. I'll give Stern a call to see if I get any ideas.

Thanks, Spiderpin for all the input. Much appreciated.

Thanks. Yes--harnesses checked and shaker motor disconnected long ago. Also checked all the grounding braid and screws holding the grounds in place, and I made sure all node boards are tightly fastened. No change. I really appreciate the ideas, though.

Someone has suggested swapping the node boards, and from the manual it certainly looks as though boards 9 and 10 are identical, so I may try that to see if the problem transfers elsewhere. If so, perhaps it implicates node board 9. Opinions on that approach are welcome.

Here is a tech question from an amateur as best as I can express it. Any insight is appreciated.

I am troubleshooting a problem with Game of Thrones LE, which I think I have traced to node board #8, although I can't be sure.

During game play, when all flippers are flipped simultaneously, all four flippers go dead randomly and regularly, independently of ball or switch behavior. Whenever the flippers go dead, the mode lights on the lower playfield visually "sweep" all at once, as though they have all been triggered rapidly, and then they return to normal.

As a test, I have blocked the signal to one or more flippers at a time (by covering up the switch contact points), and if I use just 1, 2, or 3 flippers they all work, but if all four flippers are in use they all die simultaneously. Also, if I simply put all flippers in the hold position (thus reducing the power) and move the ball over switches or even start a multiball by hand, no problems occur as long as the flippers are in the hold position.

I have also gone into the coil test in diagnostics to compare data for the flippers, and the readings I get are these:

Left lower flipper, Return =3, Power = 4
Right lower flipper, Return = 5, Power = 6
Left upper flipper, Return = 5, Power = 6
Right upper flipper, Return = 5, Power = 6

Given these different readings, I have tried replacing the coil on the left lower flipper with a new coil, but the diagnostics readings for the coils remain the same.

With the game turned on but without using the flippers, I have tested the voltage going into the flipper coils from node board #8, and it reads 48V as I believe it should.

I have also tried swapping node board #8 and #11, since they are the same part number, to see what would happen. The game won't play (it just goes into a ball search), but the diagnostics coil test still gives the same readings for return and power with node boards #8 and #11 switched.

From the manual, it looks as though CN4 on node board #8 powers the flippers.

So two questions:

(1) Could someone please go into their diagnostic coil tests on an LE and see if you get the same return and power readings as I do for the flippers? The different readings seem odd to me and perhaps there is a clue there.

(2) Is replacing node board #8 a likely fix? I can do that, but it's an expensive experiment.

Please advise, and many thanks.

Thanks so much. Question: where are the dip switches on the node boards? I didn't see any.

Thanks--I looked but sure didn't see the switches, but maybe they're just extremely tiny. I note that the manual suggests there are four DIP switches. That's very helpful.

Thanks so much. The visual is extremely helpful. I'll change the dip switches as designated in the manual and see what happens.

Success--at least as far as I know. Changing the dip switches in the two swapped node boards got rid of the issue of the flippers dying and I played two games with no problems evident. Time will tell, but if a new problem surfaces related to power, I will assume that node board #8 is implicated. Thanks so much to cynric and atum for the great advice. Where would I be without pinside?

The lower left flipper still feels weaker than the others, so I'm curious if that is just the way the game is programmed. In the diagnostics tests for the flippers I still get these readings:

Left lower flipper, Return =3, Power = 4
Right lower flipper, Return = 5, Power = 6
Left upper flipper, Return = 5, Power = 6
Right upper flipper, Return = 5, Power = 6

If someone with A GOT LE can confirm if they get these same readings, that would be useful.

Happy flipping to all!

Going back several posts, I did switch the identical node boards 8 and 11 and reset the dipswitches as recommended above to see the result. As a result, the machine problem transferred elsewhere (to other kickers and switches), confirming that node board 8 was bad. The Stern tech confirmed this approach and diagnosis as well. I finally replaced node board 8 and the game is 100% again. Thanks to several pinsiders for your excellent advice!

The game was out of warranty, so I had to buy the board from a supplier. Indeed, 200+ for the board.

It is a big bite in the a$$ and it certainly challenges the notion of Stern's "node board solutions" being simple and desirable. It reminds me of why I and many other pinheads I know prefer the Williams games for serviceability.

I hear ya, and I am one of those "many."

I recently replaced two node boards on my GOT LE and although this addressed the specific problems I was having with flipper power, I am now having a problem with at least one opto (perhaps more than one) that I'm getting ready to troubleshoot. However, I notice that on every node board under the playfield there are two green LED indicators. The larger LED on each board is lit solid, which I assume is normal, but the smaller LED on each board (located close to the DIP switches) flashes rapidly and constantly. Can someone please confirm if this rapid flashing is normal or whether it is a potential indicator of a problem? I double checked that the DIP switches on the two node boards I replaced are set correctly, but I'm wondering if this rapid flashing means anything.

Answering my own question from my previous post after looking through a Spike system manual. It appears that the rapid flashing of the LEDs--which are yellow, not green--just indicates that the system is running. Thank you to all pinsiders for not embarrassing me with a response.