Eagle, ID
Quoted from chuckwurt:Every 300 plays or so. Sucks how dirty it gets so quickly.
I'm thinking of buying a GOT premium....how hard is it to remove the upper playfield for cleaning?
(Topic ID: 148119)
Linked Games
Game of Thrones (LE)
Stern, 2015-
Game of Thrones (Premium)
Stern, 2015
Topic Gallery
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider gogdog.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Quoted from capguntrooper:Post #16 on my thread gives detailed instructions and pictures on removing mini playfield
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/game-of-thrones-le-311-house-lannister
Sweet......thanks for that. Direct link: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/game-of-thrones-le-311-house-lannister#post-2900664
I assume the ramp entrance flap screws are wood screws, and not bolts that have a nut on the under side of the PF. It always makes me nervous that with repeated loosening/tightening of wood screws on the PF, that eventually the holes will get stripped out. But I guess I can always do the toothpick/glue trick if that happens to get "bite" again.
Yeah, if that playfield is just disconnect the wiring harness and screws...super simple. Plenty of other machines that are MUCH harder to access parts of the PF for cleaning.
And yeah...the flipper coils are under the upper playfield but right above the normal PF? Of course that area is going to get filthy. Coils and movement from the flipper arms get black metal dust everywhere...quickly. I was almost thinking the upper PF was going to be like WOZ where the flipper bats and bushings are extra long so the coils are below the lower PF.
No big deal though.
Ok, went and picked up the pin!
First thing I did, was install the Stern quiet fan mod (luckily I had an extra), and install 1.37. Then, you were all right, it was pretty easy to get the upper PF off. But man, it was dirty! Not sure if the previous owner ever cleaned it but ...I do know these get dirty quickly. Menu says only 450 plays but you never know the truth there.
Of course...when I saw the condition of all the ramps and PF black dust under plastics....I just had to keep going and did a full PF teardown.
So...that took about...8-10 hours. I just want to play though! Got her cleaned and waxed though ->
Took 4 microfiber towels (using both sides) to get 'er done though.
Some thoughts:
1. This pin was on the harder end of PF tear downs. Mainly...just way more screws than I thought should be there (13 screws for the large plastic under the upper PF? ). And like for light cleaning, making things like the ramp plastic turn covers unremovable stinks. Since there are nuts on the bottom, you have to remove the entire ramp to remove the covering.
Compared to a newer IMDN, where it takes 5 seconds to remove the cover ->
2. I cleaned the lower PF flippers just like normal. But the only thing I didn't clean on this teardown was the upper PF flippers. How in the world am I supposed to take those flippers apart and then retighten them? Its hard enough cleaning the thing without breaking plastics. But it seems like I need some kind of 4 post contraption to screw the PF onto temporarily to elevate it so I have enough room to tighten/adjust the flippers?
3. Iron Throne.
a. Where is the ball supposed to land after it gets pushed out? Looks like mine just hits the plastic just south of the southern most bumper (south being towards player).
b. Are there supposed to be nuts on the top of these posts?
throne (resized).png
4. (EDIT: removed. I read about the left orbit fix)
5. Got 'er done!
Quoted from Trekkie1978:You need to get the spinner sticker and the sticker for the sword lock plate.
I'm not one for mods, but they look stock.
I knew about the sword lock plate sticker...not the spinner sticker though. Yeah, I guess the original spinner looks like it should be on star trek or something.
The sword lock plate is odd though...I have no idea what its even doing there. I don't see what it could be protecting from. I have half a mind to just remove it (unless someone tells me its use).
Also... I just realized that the slingshot/lane plastic protectors that came with this pin (but not installed), that I went ahead and put on are actually for the Pro. They also seem extra wide/thick. I'll have to decide to live with it or not.
Lastly....is there a known issue with the autolaunch? 50% of the time the ball hits something and rattles around right before the right orbit success switch. Its probably been happening for a while since the two small plastics to the right of the rightmost pop bumper are cracked.
Quoted from atum:If you have the default setting for auto-adjust plunger strength on iron throne eject, this will level itself out. It takes about 5 or 6 plunges and will get softer each time. So it'll hit the plastic in the middle, then work its way back until it falls in between all the bumper, barely falls out of the throne. Then it will stay at that level. Not sure what adjustment it is (likely under GOT adjustments), but its the default on. So as long as that is on, you should see this go away after just a few games.
Sweet thanks.
Quoted from LOTR_breath:Your game now looks awesome. I would recommend getting blue inlane guides to all premium owners. Why Stern left the red ones from the pro on a predominently blue playfiled I'll never understand. A pair is only $12 plus shipping. They look SO much better.
https://www.pinballlife.com/data-eastsegastern-return-lane-guide.html
Oh yeah.....I can definitely see getting blue as an improvement. Thanks for the tip.
Quoted from Trekkie1978:IMO, the sword plate is so when you raise and lower the playfield, the sword doesn't catch the side.
You know...I think you are right. I think its to protect the operator. I don't think its so much as the sword catching the side of the cabinet (you would have to really twist the whole playfield to do that instead of just lowering/raising it straight). I think its just to protect the mechanism while the operator is cleaning the pin, or just at its side. Like....right a second ago when I was lifting the PF up over the "bump" on the rails so I can finish sliding it into place, I noticed I was touching the sword lock plate with my stomach. If it wasn't there my stomach might have been pushing against the sword instead. Or if the PF is completely raised up, maybe the sword is at eye level, so again...its to protect the Operator...
Quoted from 85vett:Looking nice.
For the upper playfield flippers, I just laid the mini playfield on it's side when I did mine. Was easy enough and I didn't feel like it was going to hurt anything.
Looks like you are right. OK, I get to retake it off today to clean those flipper mechs!
Quoted from 85vett:If I may add a couple mod suggestions for the mini PF.
Get some lightening flippers and then 2 small matrix strips (3 LED length) before doing that. I added the lightening flippers (in black) as cosmetically they fit better but it also helps with the mini PF not being a gimmie anymore. The two 3 LED strips go under the plastics by each flipper to light up those plastics (like the inlanes by your main flippers). You will also need a matrix splitter and one of the 47 base matrix bulbs ( I put it in the GI socket under the mini PF.
2 of these - https://www.cometpinball.com/products/lighting-strips
1 of these - https://www.cometpinball.com/products/quick-connects
1 of these - https://www.cometpinball.com/products/matrix-splitter-wires
1 or 2 of these in 12 inches wouldn't hurt either - https://www.cometpinball.com/products/matrix-extension-wires
Those two mods really completed the mini PF for me.
I have plenty of comet strips...though do you have a pic of what it looks like?
Quoted from 85vett:Just grabbed one for you. It's not over the top difference but I really liked the subtle differences with the lit inlanes and the lightening flippers.[quoted image]
Sweet...looks great. Easy mod when I can just connect to GI under the upper PF. I'll probably do that when I add a trough light.
Quoted from 85vett:Also, for you new owners. An oldie but goodie CHEAP mod that makes a huge difference. I can't take credit for it and I don't recall the first to do it but take some copper wire, gold paint and some black heat shrink to your sword.
You paint the handle gold (you can barely see where it stops right above the pivot joint in the picture). Then black heat shirk at the grip covered by some wound wire.
My camera kind of sucks but hopefully you get the idea. Really makes it look more realistic.[quoted image]
Oh I see what you are saying. You only paint the handle gold. Yeah that pic makes it look like the entire sword is painted gold (including blade) but yeah I see where it stops there at the bottom of the blade. Should be easy to take it off, spraypaint gold, and heat shrink. I just need to get some copper wire.
Quoted from 85vett:Grabbed a better pic at lunch today.[quoted image]
Yeah, that looks good. OK, I'll get that done here soon too (I have quite a list though for initial upgrades).
And...I had another productive quarantine day yesterday. Another PF teardown! Nothing better than doing one PF teardown and then doing it again the next day. I should have done my research on fixes before the first teardown.
1. First, I added washers to the back of the elevator since I did see the 4 screws were protruding into the shaft.
2. Added a lock nut to the throne. Not sure if it was initially there or not, but with it there, I am able to raise/lower the playfield without it flopping around if I had already undone the long screws from under the PF.
3. I cleaned the upper PF flippers. Yeah, putting the PF on its side was fine, though I do worry some day I might break a wall plastic.
4. Question: When taking the ramps off, are you all just unscrewing the optic sensors each time? Other pins I can disconnect to the sensors from under the PF and feed them back through but with these, the designers really don't want you to do that since there are plastics everwhere making it near impossible to feed the wiring through each time.
5. Left orbit fix.
a. First I added washers to the screws on the shield plastic below the Upper PF since they are protruding into the orbit, hitting the ball.
b. I added coil sleeves with heat shrink to the pop bumper inlanes.
c. Took off the diverter. Now here,.....it was super easy to enlarge the holes with a 3/16" drill bit. But that did nothing for me. When reinstalling the diverter, I couldn't push it up the PF at all. So, I marked with a permanent marker the direction I needed to elongate the holes, then took a Dremel with a grinding bit to do elongate it. I was fortunately able to push the diverter up all the way till the bushing hit the PF.
Seems to work...though I need more time to see what success percentage a good hit up the orbit is.
6. I'm getting auto plunge problems where a plunge isn't making it all the way into the pops. I adjusted the rail on the left side of the right orbit and it seems to have helped but I think I'm still at like 80%.
I'm surprised that there are no menu adjustments to control auto plunger power or even flipper power?
Anyway, another long day at work on this pin!
Quoted from 85vett:For the ramp Opto's. I unplug them from the board under the PF and fish them though. It's a bit of a song and dance getting them back through but much easier in the long run.
Do you know where it is rattling on the launch? I'm guessing the control gate on the right side may be getting in the way. It shouldn't need much power at all to get to the throne shot or pops. Take a video if you can as that may help us help you. But also make sure the forks on the auto shooter are even and touching the ball at rest. If not, it could be shooting it at an angle, which unfortunately, is extremely common on Stern's newer games.
Yeah, I looked at the autoplunger prongs to make sure both were in contact all the way through the movement and they area (I had a NIB IMDN that had much larger autolaunch problems...like most every IMDN). I went to take a slow-mo video on trough clear mode and of course like 100% no problems for like 30 launches. Go and play the game and it happens a couple of times. The control gate isn't an issue....its getting stuck right before the right orbit success switch. Its almost like occasionally it might be getting stuck just right in between the rail and the switch wire, getting kind of sandwiched and pinned there. Hmm, maybe I'll adjust the rail and the wireform so there is a smaller gap.
And....I'm very surprised you can even fish the opto wires through the PF. Like...you are fishing the wire for the right ramp opto through all of this? ->
That is a vertical plastic shield, then a slit through a large horizontal plastic, which also has a rubber ring, and then a small hole in the PF to all get around..holy cow! Left ramp is hardly better on its first opto ->
Quoted from capguntrooper:Its a pain but reroute your wires so it looks cleaner and cant vibe seen from the ramp, I hate that Stern does not already do this, see example on how mine is done, it looks even cleaner now with additional mini zip ties. I would post recent pics but am not home at the moment.[quoted image][quoted image]
Yeah I saw your video on rerouting the wires so they don't show under the ramps. Its definitely a cleaner look. And since you are ziptieing as well, I assume for sure you are just unscrewing the optos from the ramps when you need to remove the ramps?
Ok, went ahead and added the gold to the sword lock. Until I get some thicker gauge copper wire (which will look better), I just twisted 4 strands of much thinner gauge wire.
Also....when I was cleaning the upper PF flippers, I noticed that they did not have EOS switches. Are end of stroke switches not needed because it uses weaker coils up there? I'm still surprised there are no flipper power options in the menu. Is that true with all Spike 1 games?
Is there a known issue with balls immediately falling out of the Iron Throne? Sometimes I will get a streak where the ball will fall into the throne but immediately falls out. Its not getting hit by the plunger I don't think.
From above it looks like the plastic throne is not centered over the metal ...is there an adjustment for that?
Quoted from Trekkie1978:Try to lower the ramp as close as you can to the throne. When I first got my game, the ball would constantly fall out. Then lowering it as much as I could, it hasn’t fallen out once. There’s 2 screws/bolts that hold it in place.
Ok, I can try that, but it still seems the plastic throne is still not centered over the switch/plunger mechanism.
capguntrooper had created a "throne cushion" which he talks about here ->
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/game-of-thrones-le-311-left-orbit-fix
Looks like this ->
Is there a post that explains what these cushions are made out of or anything?
Quoted from Trekkie1978:Take a slow mo video of that metal piece. Maybe when you hit the ramp, that meta piece is raising off the upper playfield, this slowing the ball down. Just a thought.
Its not getting stuck from the ramp though. Its from the upper PF getting stuck.
With the wire there, the ball is not supposed to be able to get under it from the upper PF, but I'm sure if the ball hits the wall next to it or something it causes the wire to raise up due to the shock, and the ball can just happen to move right under it in just the right way where it has killed its momentum so it gets stuck.
Its happened at least 3 times in the past 2 days so was wondering if it is a known/common issue.
Quoted from LOTR_breath:You said you know that the metal flap isn't screwed down. Are you leaving that way? Or they were just out when you took the picture?
Well...I'm undecided. I keep my pins clean, and this looks like a pin that gets dirty quick due to the coils of the upper PF. I don't like constantly removing wood screws that are directly on a PF (like ramps) if I can help it, and since I'll be removing the upper PF frequently to clean and don't see much advantage to screwing that flap down, I probably won't.
Actually...the main issue with those two screws is that with my right ramp I have to push it moderately hard towards the front of the pin to get those two screws aligned, so it also puts a lot of stress on the right ramp entrance flap screws. There is already a hex post screw at the top of the right ramp that keeps it in place so the wood screws that attach to the upper PF are a bit superfluous.
My general finding with the pin is that it is "over screwed". There are 13 screws/nuts that hold the protector plastic below the upper PF for example.
Quoted from chuckwurt:Never seen that before. Make sure the gate moves freely and not binding.
Yeah, moves freely. I just played a game and happened again. I can free it with a good nudge but always results in a tilt warning.
Quoted from chuckwurt:Could be the case. I’ve just been trying to get them all up there during ball save as all autolaunched balls go up there.
Yeah...I just played and verified that the right orbit does send balls up to the upper PF. I held a ball on lower right flipper and used the left lower to keep sending balls to the Upper via the right orbit, like 5 times in a row. Its great staged flipper practice too.
Quoted from chuckwurt:Then the only difference between your game and mine is the ramp flap not being screwed down. Yours is way off too. It should line up good. Your upper playfield or ramp needs some adjusting I’d say.
Yeah, its more like...ok, loosen the Upper PF and push it all the way to the back of the pin, tighten. Loosen the upper right ramp hex screw, push forward, tighten. Basically...adjust all the screws that allow a little bit of play and then its aligned a bit better.
I'll go ahead and add those two screws and see if it ever happens again.
2 weeks later
Quoted from chuckwurt:Yes. When hitting a combo shot, all other combos (flashing red arrows) increase except for the one you just hit. Remember you’re limited to 3x until you collect some swords.
Based on the sword you’re collecting. The sword you’re awarded is random though.
Shoot the spinner more. Max is 150mm. Then you can pump up playfield x too before the collect. So max value of the final shot is 750mm
I don’t think your spotting mode shots up there. You’re simply working towards collecting a castle and completing the mode. So you get next to nothing until you collect the castle at the loop and complete the mode. But yes. The 2x and 3x playfield up there only applies to points you earn on the upper playfield times any playfield multipliers you have from the lower playfield.
How many of you have turned off upper castle mode complete? I did that the second day I had mine...it would have made the modes too easy and play exactly the same. I still go up there to collect castles (though..is there an award for how many castles are collected similar to winter is coming collects?), and for most modes after collecting the castle the upper PF helps spot shots but it wouldn't be such a gimme.
Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider gogdog.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Reply
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!
Donate to PinsideGreat to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
