Can I join early? Bought an LE this week. Wont be delivered for another week, at least, though.?

I really want a topper but dang, $500 is steep. Maybe one day I'll give in but for now I'm passing on it. Did order a shaker motor though.

Speaking of shaker motors, I've heard of issues with them on spike games. Wasn't there something you had to look for to make sure you don't blow a board?

I was thinking of this if I don't go with the Stern topper. My wife collects dragons (thus the LE and not a prem) and this is from her collection. Pretty heavy though for what it is at about 5 pounds. Or maybe just not topper at all (leaning that way).

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Should be able to adjust them the same way. No need for new spoons though.

Speaking of the pops. Anyone know if the RGB's in them are coded in yet? i don't recall seeing any color changing (like the Kiss pops do) when I played a LE recently. I didn't even realize it had RGB's until I read the feature list.

Just got the call. Delivery of my LE is slated for tomm

Couple of things.

- For premium owners. Somebody please put some Ice Blue in the GI. I bet that would be sweet on this theme!

- New to SPIKE people. I just made a thread about the interlock. Seems as though that feature is gone. Major bummer on that.

- I'm surprised I didn't see talk about this. They went to the pro style lock/latch system on the prem and LE's apparently. I personally prefer that but was pretty surprised to see that when I opened my LE.

Your game has a flaky opto back there.. Mine doesn't do this and it's the first I've heard of it.

Shoot. Tell them you will pick it up next week and that they owe you a "convenience fee"

It was the best if times and the worst of times.

Best - finally beat drogon 3.

Worst - I was on ball 3 and I bricked the shot for iron throne while it was strobing and center drained.

So close, yet so far away. Will sound stupid but this game reminds me of Tron and Portal MB. Every game I start it feels like it's within reach and yet it still alludes me.

LE owners.

Has anyone removed their side rails and put EL tape under them? I want to put red back there and tie it into the game so it lights up when the game is on. Seen it on some modded Trons and thought this game would be another perfect example of this due to the rails. Wasn't sure how hard it was to remove though.

ebay.com link: 6 x2 Electroluminescent Panel EL Tape Back Light 12V 6 Colors With Inverter

I'll try it if I can figure out how to get the rails off without damaging anything. Hoping for tips/advice.

I'll be honest, I'm loving GOTLE. I wasn't sure I would since the rules feel pretty shallow at first. But the strategy of the game has me really engaged. I bought GOT for my wife (she collects dragons and loved the theme) but I wasn't to excited about it. That's changed.

I'd be lying if I didn't say that I'm really interested in Ghostbuster, mainly for the holograms, but I have no buyers remorse. BG has some cool features though.

LOL. Drove me nuts. I cut the wire off about 1/8th of an inch away from where it sits on the bracket. Then hit it with a black sharpie. Can no longer see it and works perfectly fine. When I got my game I spent more time than a should have searching for where it was supposed to mount as I thought it had broken off and was hanging down like that in error. Topper has the same thing...

Not sure if anyone has done this yet or not. If so, sorry for the repeat.

I grew tired of looking at the spots on my slings so I relocated them to be next to the apron. Really cleaned up the middle of the PF while also still allowing me to have the flashers for the nice lighting effects they create. Couple of pics below.

And next, I know you will think I'm crazy, I'm going to try out some mini flippers on the mini PF. I'm wanting to make it harder to complete things but the flippers extending out into the opening kind of bugs me. Thinking of trying lighting flippers.

Just picked up a couple of these - http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=catalog&mode=search&search_in=all&search_str=pbl_02-4277-22 and made a couple wire extensions with z connectors.

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Can I join? I've got GOTLE and METLE. Don't have the bank roll needed for a TRONLE though unless labnip is finally going to give in and trade me his for my Batman I'd seriously love to have TRONLE in this lineup but I don't think $$$ will ever work out for that. Maybe a pro some day though.

Got money set aside for one if it were to ever happen Not counting those eggs though.

Black water is all about getting your PF multipliers ready to go before collecting on the supers. Also, if you want to get real brave, pound away at the ram before starting Black Water so that you can increase your wildfire. Wildfire increases your jackpots and supers.

And Labnip - Sticker looks great, now take that ugly black cover off the tip of your sword

Any LE owners think about having their wire ramps black anodized or black chrome powder coated? I've been thinking of doing this if I can buy an extra set of wire ramps. Was thinking of a black anodized look.

Do you have the left orbit mod in your game? Your experience is exactly what I had when I had it in. Just that small lip got the ball off track for me and it was missing that shot a lot. Took it off and now get smooth orbits again but left orbit is bad again.

Another thing to look at is the control gates. My left one was interfering with the back ball guide. I had to trim the bracket to allow my ball guide to be flush again.

markp99 - Glad you got your orbit issues sorted out. As far as the blue plastic. It seems like it would have to be part of the plastic that goes under the castle. Can you post a pic of the piece? If so, I can try to locate it on my game. Also, for the plastic under the caste that is broken. You may want to give stern a call. They will probably replace it for you. That piece helps to keep a ball from hitting the underside of the mini playfield (drogon kickback mainly) so it's pretty important for it to be in good shape.

Looks like that may actually be the tip of plastic 09 here. Hard to tell for sure though. Yours looks a bit different but not sure if that is just the lighting or if it's the wrong piece.

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The other spot I was thinking of (took the pic from capgunners thread). I circled the area in yellow.

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Going to be a personal preference. The mini playfield only slows the game down on the right ramp shot but it also adds an extra MB, ability to add time to modes (can be very lucrative in some modes), ability to collect castles (scoring and bonus points).

I own a LE but also play a pro all the time (for League) and I can tell you that I enjoy both very much but for different reasons. I like the mini PF, light show, interactive throne and I prefer the way you progress in Wall MB a lot more in the Prem/LE (pro feels to easy to me). If I could get my orbits to be as smooth as a pro then I would be a real happy camper as right now, that is the only plus to playing to pro for me.

Pretty sure you have that correct. The chain mail helps it a lot (IMHO).

Agreed. I think the fact that the mini PF and throne on the LE blocks off a fair chunk of the PF art helps a bit too. Going to sounds stupid but I think this is a case of less is more. The Pro PF art feels very minuscule to me where the I actually really like the LE PF. I think it's because I'm not seeing as much of the PF so the art ties in better to my eye. Still haven't put my finger on it but that's my thought. My wife did the same thing (before we bought our LE). Pinballz had both a Pro and LE for a tournament they had and we both said the art was much better on the LE PF. Later to only find out it was the same (minus the center).

Crap, I didn't know that. Once I collected a castle I just would let it drain the the left flipper. This is EXCELLENT to know if you are in jail on a mode. For example, you accidentally get lock lit for ball 3 but you are in a mode and don't want to start BWMB with the mode you are in. Knowing this I can try to complete the mode on the mini PF vs just trying to time the mode out.

Losen the two screws holding the wire form onto the back panel. Make sure they are as far down as possible and then re-tighten. Doing just this got me to not have any more bounce outs. I have heard of a couple people that needed to slightly bend their ramp down just a little bit though.

It's part of the ownership experience. Chevy lets you build the engine of your Corvette if you pay them an extra fee and Stern lets you QC the game for free.

Go into it assuming it will take the route of AVLE (I personally love it) so that if it goes the route of STLE or METLE you'll be super thrilled.

I did as I hate sneeze guards. I quickly put the ones back on that are in the pops area though as the throne kickout did have a tendency to kick the ball out in places that you don't want it going. I removed the ones by the left ramp that comes from the mini PF. Looks so much better and I've yet to get a ball stuck there. I want to test removing the one that blocks the removal of the throne that sits on the center ramp. Would be nice to not need that one.

I think it's the strategy that's doing it. Just going through houses isn't enough. You have stack them in the right order and then completely them in certain ways to maximize your points. The shot and PF multipliers help this a whole lot as well as it adds even more strategy and risk vs reward. Had mine a couple months as well and I'm still learning new things.

The true test for me is that I still put money in the game when I see it on route. All my other games I wont pay them to play when I find them on route. Maybe it's still the honeymoon phase though but I'm really happy with this purchase.

That's part of the fun of the game in discovering what works best for you Strategy with this game will be dependent on skill level but some high level ones I'd recommend are:
- Try to not play GJ or Lanister until you are in a MB. I find this to stack best with the first BWMB. You have to shoot all the required shots in GJ as the jackpots so it's clearing both items with one shot. I also find that during BWMB I'll at least light all the Lanister shots if not collect them all as well. For Lanister, you must shoot the stand up targets to active a shot in order to collect it.
- Try to keep your shot multipliers going. They time out quickly but if you keep with the flow you can keep them going. Big point differences can come from this. For instance, Stark maxes at 75 million without a multiplier. If you can get that final shot with a 5x your score now goes to 375 million and that is without any PF multipliers.
- play as martel for the add a ball but do not play the martel mode if you think you stand any chance of getting to THOK. Martel requires you to shoot each shot twice.
- THOK - I try to bring Tyrel, Lanister, GJ and Stark into this mode. Doing this you have the minum number of shots required (GJ takes a shot away), get the 20 seconds of bonus shooting (stark), and added JP and hurry up scores (Tyrel and Lanister). If you are playing as martel you also get an add a ball and by not completing this house before THOK you don't get the punishment of having to hit all shots twice.
- If you are close to THOK and are doing a different MB, don't use your add a ball in the standard MB. It's more valuable in a good THOK MB than a standard MB.
- Use your ball save time to knock out some locks or LOL shots. Most games will have a nice karem (spelling???) by shooting the lower LOL target which bounces the ball back to the other side into the lock shots.
- Avoid the ram unless you have LOL. If you have LOL try to advance your PF multipliers before starting a MB.

Here is one thing I do that most seem to avoid. If mystery is lit and I have LOL on then I'll try to get 3x+ PF multiplier going before I shoot the mystery shot. I find that video mode is an option a lot and video mode at 3X+ can be lucrative. You can get 60 million (at 3x) all the way to 100 million (at 5x) for a mode that the ball is not at risk. Doesn't sound like a lot in a billion plus game but it can still be lucrative. I find that more valuable than a free lock or lighting a house sometimes. Depends on game situation of course.

My best suggestion is to try different things. Game gets boring trying the same stuff every time so force yourself to mix it up and you may find something that will work great for you.

I guess I'm crazy as I love the art on my LE. I like what they did with the center section and I like that they kept it more Medieval Like. I think that helps it attract not only Game of Thrones fans but also Medieval fans. I never watched a single episode of Game of Thrones though until I got my game so that could be part of it.

I also love the art on my MET too but I think GOT would not have pulled off the more active/full art as well. Sometimes less is more and with GOT I'm super happy with the art package (PF, BG and Cab). I wanted a pro or prem but my wife insisted on the LE (she collects dragons) and I'm glad she did.

What about the magnets on the outlanes?

Ok, Ok... So their aren't magnets there. Sure feels like it though...

Nope. You can only progress to qualify a new house while outside of a mode/MB.

Precisely. If I have 2 balls locked already I generally just start my houses, shoot for a lite lock target and then start MB. Here is a tip that is probably obvious now to those that have the rules down but I didn't learn until I screwed myself once. Don't start Tyrel until you are ready to start a MB. 3 of the shots are lock target shots so you can't avoid lighting a lock while in that mode like you can other modes.

I do this too as well. Sometimes it's hard to not press the "add a ball" when in BWMB and HOTK will be ready when my BWMB is over. I wasted many add a balls this way.

Wow, do tell more on how you managed to get 2 billion off WHC. I'm happy to get a couple hundred million out of that mode.

Yes - Iron Throne is a multi ball. After each round you get an add a ball as well.

Hodor Multi ball? I haven't seen that one. Can you elaborate or are you pulling our chain?

2 things you can do with this.
- first try to loosen the trail to the throne at both bolts. Push the right side up and the left side down when tightening things up. This effectively lowers the slope so slows the ball down. This fixed mine and I no longer get bounce outs.
- second thing to try is to add a "speed bump" into the trail. People have done that by putting a post rubber on one of the cross braces of the trail.

I don't get a whole lot of action either compared to some of my other games. This happened when I removed the rubbers from the post above the lanes (assuming the previous owner did this) as the ball doesn't feel to well to the triggers of the pops. Making them a bit more sensitive now would probably help but I actually like the smaller amount of action.

Hmm... I'll have to check this out. Maybe I need to send a C&D to them instead of how things normally work with modders being the ones getting the C&D

Seriously though, I hope they finally did fix their design to keep them straight.

I can backhand the right ramp at first. It takes a clean shot but I can do it when desired. With that said, during my longer play session it gets harder and harder to hit as I play. Seems as though the flippers get a little weaker as they heat up and that little change makes it to where I can't make the ramp or it's real tough at some point.

Common issue. Just raise the height of the sneeze guard on top of it. Also, make sure that your drop target is level with the PF and not sticking up just a tad.

Big time. Another bonus to you getting to 4x before starting your MB is that you probably increased your wildfire too. That impacts your JP values and is something not talked a lot about. Increasing wildfire before going into your MB can also help you blow up a score.

I don't recall but I thought their was an adjustment screw. I don't think it's a common problem. The common problem is the sneeze guard.

I'll add that their felt to be a lot of people that passed on it because of the artwork. I'll have to admit that in pictures it felt very bland to me but once I saw one in person I felt as though the artwork really fit well. Keep in mind I'm not a Game of Thrones watcher so theme wise it may not match the show (really have no clue) but for the medieval times timeline (how I view the game) it fits well to me.

If you don't understand the idiosyncrasies of the code I can fully understand the code concerns. I was in that boat until I started trying to figure everything out and master it. After fully understanding what the game has to offer it really is impressive and allows for a lot of different ways to maximize your score. For instance (I hinted to it before in this thread), how many people know that at some point you can get half a billion (yes with a B not a M) per shot through a juiced spinner? Just did it last night from paying the spinner strategy with house tyrel. Normally I kill out at 300m a shot but I had a couple good MB's to help me build the spinner value. Getting my 4X and 5X going and the PF multipliers I was able to rack up a lot of points quickly.

As for Greyjoy. I could have sworn I used an add a ball in Iron Throne when playing it a couple days ago. I'll have to pay more attention and revert back if I can make it back there while playing as them.

Post 3595 here is where I started the experiment. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/got-kicks-ass/page/72

Basically, every drop of the LOL target increases your spinner value. I got to that level by just focusing on drops during my MB's so I could keep building things.

Adding chart here for easy findings. ***points are x 1K.

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Exactly. So if you get it up their and can live catch. Better take the points while they are out there. If I get to a point to where I've used my add a ball and get to HOTK I'll focus on the spinner until I drain.

I love doing the 3rd one in MB. Some really good points in that last one if you get the shots quickly.

I did the same as you last night but I only needed my martel done to get IT. Got 3 loops nice and easy. Went for the center shot which would have completed martel and also started IT. Yeah, short shot the ramp, hit the target and went straight down the middle before I knew what happened.

+1

With caps fix I did have some issues with the right lane. removed it and did the fix with drilling out the mounting bracket and I have smooth left orbits and perfect right orbits.

Did you get a spike approved shaker? If not, you probably just blew your board.

memory lapses me at the moment but I believe they are the ones with the resistor. Could be visa versa though.

1. I've had this happen on Pro and LE. I always assumed a bug but if you make your other shots to iced lanes it does that sometimes with houses you still are trying to complete.

2. Never holds the ball (no mech for it). The times that it holds the ball in the pro are times the elevator (right orbit shot) sends the ball to the throne.

That's going to be game specific. It takes a clean backhand to make the orbit on a pro or Prem/LE. I've played some games that are harder than others. For instance, some games you can't/rarely can backhand the center ramp or right ramp (game at TPF last year for instance). If it's a clean and powerful shot it should make it. Also keep in mind, it is not supposed to go all the way across 100% of the time as well. I think some people get confused on this part thinking it still has issues. Unless you are in specific modes or combing a shot the orbit is not open for a full loop.

I've had it happen a handfull of times on my LE at home. Pretty sure it happened on a pro that was on route to me as well. I can't confirm the code level though on that game. Pretty sure it's a bug either way since you should not be able to start a mode and WIC at the same time.

Same experience as Eskaybee but I've also had it happen on the Martel loop.

Reason I also think it's a bug in both is the example he gave on the pro shouldn't happen either. You shoot targaryan to qualify the house but it should not start until you shoot the center ramp and select it.

Theirs a handful of bugs in the game that could use cleaning and this is one of those weird ones that should be on that list. I know Dwight is aware of it as I told him about it in a conversation he and I had about a year ago.

Quick way to blow up Lanister is to exploit the super jackpot bug.

If you aren't familiar with this what you do is:
- Prime BWMB by locking 2 balls.
- Get mystery lit with having (I think) about 1400 or more coins (super easy while as lanister)
- This will put "light super jackpot" as one of your options to collect in the mystery award.
- Select "light super jackpot"
- DO NOT collect the SJ at this time
- start BWMB
- Now collect the SJ

When you do this the SJ will stay lit for the enitre MB until you collect all 5 BWMB shots so do not collect them all. Once you collect them all it starts the timer for the SJ and takes you out of the exploit. My goal is to get a ball on the left flipper and hold it there then I just cont to hit the SJ with the right flipper.

You can do this with any house but it's the easiest to get the SJ option as mystery with Lanister.

Lastly, he's a mod so don't tell him I told you this as I don't want to get banned

It's interesting reading the feedback on modes sometimes and to see peoples preferences. It seems as thought Iron Throne is well received of which I actually far prefer HOTK over IT when playing GOT. Me personally I would actually say that IT is one of my least fav end of the game wizard modes from all the ones I've been to. Just feels a bit to repetitive for me but it's good to see that I'm in the minority there. Still a great game for sure!

It's not the code as if it was everyone would have the same issue. Some have had issue with the mech and got it replaced by calling Stern. If you are positive that it is not hitting some screws I would give Chas a call at Stern Tech Support.

As for your second issue. I don't think I've ever lit a special before. I would assume it would go to the Throne to collect but no experience their.

If that was the only change that occurred then I would suggest re-downloading and installing the code just to make sure it didn't get corrupted a bit. I've seen that in other games before.

Keep in mind thought that it learns over time (same as with the toy box in AS) but after a dozen or so games it should be pretty rare for it not to make it in one try.

Ouch, glad it's working correctly.

Check the diverter in the VUK in test to make sure it is working correctly. The game will adjust coil strength over time due to failures on kicking it hard enough but if the door isn't opening up that will prevent it 100% of the time.

Could be wrong but I thought mine came in the all the way open setting.

For me it's mainly make castle multiball worth while and pause the PF or at least shot multiplier when on upper playfield.

If it bugs you enough to repair/replace just take it off and take it to a power coat company local to you. Any powder coat company "should" be able to strip that and match the color. Shouldn't cost you more than $75-$100. Worst case, contact pinball refinery and ask them to help. But you'd be paying shipping now thus the local option.

Honestly, just get some mylar. It's stupid cheap and easy to replace if you ever need to. I have it on all my HUO games and none are even close to showing any wear there.

That is an odd one for sure. So the white up post works but not the sword. Does the white up post stay up long enough to let you select a mode and also hold balls for multi ball? I would say that coil got unplugged or shorted out but you mentioned it works in coil test.

My best guess at this point - That coil was turned off in the feature settings. Look for the sword coil and make sure it is on.

Nothing that I can really think of that should be getting in the way. Must be something that dislodged. Take the mini PF out and give it a check and a clean while you are at it. It's pretty easy to do. Just 4 screws to remove the dragon, 2 for the ramp to the throne and 4 screws for the PF itself. Just be sure to disconnect all the harnesses before you unscrew everything.

Ah hell, who let the riff raff in

Congrats. I think you will like the differences. They are fairly small but adds some extra strategy to the game. You lose a little bit of the flow from the pro but the change in progressing wall, mode timer increase ability, mode completion ability and the actual throne all make it worth it for me.

My first tip, put lighting flippers on the mini PF. Makes it slightly more challenging (which was a plus for me) but more importantly increase the flow of the game as now when I hit the right ramp it will go straight into the ramp return lane if I don't flip at the ball. I also put felt on the return guide at the top of the mini PF. Something about smacking a metal ball against a metal guide like that didn't sit well with me as it was scaring my balls pretty quickly.

Been a while since I've gone that far. I do know that the game will basically start over after your beat iron throne but I don't recall if it's before or after you drain. Part of me wants to say it's after you drain though. That's really my only real gripe with GOT is that the final wizard mode doesn't have a lot of call outs or intuitiveness on what to do after you finished it.

Sounds like your game is set up way to easy. That is the great part of GOT, it can be set up to be brutal all the way to "I could get to I.T. over 50% of the time" I was getting there pretty easy for a while so I opened up the outlanes and set my slings a tad bit tighter. I promise you wont see I.T. even 10% of the time anymore unless you are some sort of pinball god. I've had 2 of my friends over playing it a couple of times. One is top 15 in world and the other just fell out of top 100. I'm the worst at 300.

Superbands will do it or a post catch if you get real good at them.

My mini PF isn't nearly that easy, but I did put lightening flippers up there. I couldn't stand cosmetically how the flippers stuck out into the return lane so put them on there.

Atum - Adjust your slings. I 100% promise that will drastically increase the difficulty of your game. But it sounds like your strategy is just get there. When I play, I'm trying to get there but with a decent score at the same time so killing all the houses through the mini PF doesn't make sense.

Agreed, I was thinking on of the connectors under the mini playfield was acting up until you said you checked it. Are you 100% no wires have been pinched that go to it? It would be easy to do when putting it back on.

Yeah, does sound like a fun challenge. I know this is a Prem/LE thread but we still may want to specify Pro or Prem/LE since us Prem/LE players can kill houses on the upper PF now.

Interesting strategy of if you play as stark, light a house, kill the house and then drain so you get your power back or if you go with one of the harder houses to qualify (Tyrel, Baratheon, Targaryen for instance) and use the upper PF to beat the houses.

So, asking for a friend, if I play as Targaryen, does my freeze timers filter to the stop watch

Baratheon is easy and quick to beat but a PITA to light, at least for me. Still haven't had time to try this but hope to at least this weekend.

Best I could pull off. I lost a ton of time in the pops as my orbit is only at 10% these days. No clue why as I've done all the "fixes".

Sub 2 mins is definitely doable if your orbit works right.

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Make sure to qualify greyjoy and Martell before Lannister so you only have the animation delay once for having to pass for now to qualify more houses.

I think the biggest time save for me was I made sure to have 2 houses going at one time. I completed one and then use Stark button to kill the other. Then I tilted to get the ball back and my Stark Power back immediately. For this run I did Greyjoy and Stark. Had Greyjoy first so my Stark power would kill it. 3 center shots then left orbit. Then Stark button to finish Greyjoy. Then I did Martel and Lannister together. Left orbit 3 times and then center shot. Stark button to take out Lannister and center shot to start HOTK. I did get one lock on accident but by avoiding the center shot until I had all but Lannister already ready it didn't kill to much time.

Curious to see what strats others use. Wish I had a way to stream as these would be fun things to stream kind of like what Ray and Esther did with BM66.

Appreciate it. I figure it out. I literally just updated my code to 1.37 yesterday before trying the HOTK stuff as I was on 1.36. I completely forgot that the code turns the orbit off by default now and had to change that setting again. Back to 80%

I played Martel outright since it was 3 easy orbit shots then the center shot. I may have to try the upper PF as it would be quicker if (and that's a big if) I can hit all the shots and make the orbit without missing to many shots. I put lightening flippers on my mini PF so it's not a give me anymore.

Don't recall exactly but I'm pretty sure that animation was skipped since I killed the Lannister mode right when the center ramp shot registered. There is still time to be had as with that run I missed the right orbit 3 times (one lit the lock) when trying to qualify the Martel house. Feels like a clean run could be done sub 2 mins if everything fell in place.

You are pushing it up towards the top of the playfield. You are increasing the amount of wood you see there.

I had the same issue. Pretty sure it's not a code issue as not all games have this problem. For me, it would happen most of the time on a clean shot to where the ball would go up the ramp fast enough to hit the locked ball, bounce back and re-trigger the switches again. I don't recall how I fixed that but I thought I adjusted the switches to be less sensitive.

Agree, I haven't had that issue either after adjusting my switches. I just can't recall what I did with them though on if it was to make them more or less sensitive. It's entirely possible they changed some of the timing in the code which has made the issue more sensative but I do think it's also hardware related. But I do also agree they could easily fix in code. Instead of triggering that mech based off the switch being triggered they could add a timer to it so it has to be triggered for half a second before it activates that portion of the code to release a ball.

It's the bounce back off the locked ball that is causing the issue. At least that is what it was for me a while back.

Check with Titan. They have user submitted kits. Even if you don't want to buy the kit it should tell you what is in the kit.

This should be all their kits for the Prem/LE.

https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/browse/bygame/5682

Looking nice.

For the upper playfield flippers, I just laid the mini playfield on it's side when I did mine. Was easy enough and I didn't feel like it was going to hurt anything.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1045-mods-for-your-pinballs/01571-game-of-thrones-spinner-decals
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1045-mods-for-your-pinballs/01570-game-of-thrones-sword-lock-metal-plate-decal

If I may add a couple mod suggestions for the mini PF.

Get some lightening flippers and then 2 small matrix strips (3 LED length) before doing that. I added the lightening flippers (in black) as cosmetically they fit better but it also helps with the mini PF not being a gimmie anymore. The two 3 LED strips go under the plastics by each flipper to light up those plastics (like the inlanes by your main flippers). You will also need a matrix splitter and one of the 47 base matrix bulbs ( I put it in the GI socket under the mini PF.

2 of these - https://www.cometpinball.com/products/lighting-strips
1 of these - https://www.cometpinball.com/products/quick-connects
1 of these - https://www.cometpinball.com/products/matrix-splitter-wires
1 or 2 of these in 12 inches wouldn't hurt either - https://www.cometpinball.com/products/matrix-extension-wires

Those two mods really completed the mini PF for me.

Just grabbed one for you. It's not over the top difference but I really liked the subtle differences with the lit inlanes and the lightening flippers.

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Also, for you new owners. An oldie but goodie CHEAP mod that makes a huge difference. I can't take credit for it and I don't recall the first to do it but take some copper wire, gold paint and some black heat shrink to your sword.

You paint the handle gold (you can barely see where it stops right above the pivot joint in the picture). Then black heat shirk at the grip covered by some wound wire.

My camera kind of sucks but hopefully you get the idea. Really makes it look more realistic.

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Grabbed a better pic at lunch today.

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For the ramp Opto's. I unplug them from the board under the PF and fish them though. It's a bit of a song and dance getting them back through but much easier in the long run.

Do you know where it is rattling on the launch? I'm guessing the control gate on the right side may be getting in the way. It shouldn't need much power at all to get to the throne shot or pops. Take a video if you can as that may help us help you. But also make sure the forks on the auto shooter are even and touching the ball at rest. If not, it could be shooting it at an angle, which unfortunately, is extremely common on Stern's newer games.

Yes. Take the plastic off just below the right of the left ramp that goes straight up. It's just one screw and has to come out to get the ramp out easily anyway. They can be fiddly but that is how I do it.

You'd know best at this point but I thought it fed the ball up there when one wasn't already there. If a ball is on the upper PF then it didn't divert until you lost that ball. At least that seems to be what I figured out while playing.

Nothing that I am aware of in WHC, Wall or IT in the upper playfield.

I really wish the swords were standardized, at least in tournament mode as some of them can be fairly valuable in a lower scoring game (that is set up hard). In a normal set up game to where you are scoring a billion plus it's not much an issue but the game I play on in league is set up with wide open outlanes, fairly tight tilt AND lightening flippers. I often times take first with 200-300 million in 4 player matches and the difference in sword values can actually make a difference in games of those scores.

I kept mine as stock as well as nothing is forcing me to hit the left orbit on the upper playfield to complete a mode for times when I want to take the harder path. I like having that as an option though and often times use it to complete a harder mode that I'm running out of time on. Plus, I also care about my score as well as the path. I.E. - If I have a game that I make it to IT but only score 1 billion points I don't feel nearly as satisfied as I do making it to IT at 4 billion points. Completing the mode with the upper PF has a pretty big effect on your scoring potential.

Also, for anyone that finds the upper playfield to easy or a give-me I strongly suggest lightening flippers up there. Cosmetically they fit better as the bats no longer extend into the opening for the ramp drain but it also makes it more challenging to keep the ball in play up there. I think that is my only real complaint about the upper PF. It feels like it should have come with mini flippers since it's so easy to get up there it feels like it should be a lot harder (and thus more reqarding) to complete. Same concept with something like TFLE mini playfield where most owners took the control gate out because it was too easy and thus not as much fun.

Finally got a hold of my game after the new code update a while ago

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Yeah, I had some pretty stupid scores on the 1.36 code using Lannister but after updating to 1.37 which borked some of the scoring exploits I hadn't seen to many good scoring games. I had not one but two absolutely horrible HOTK's but 5.9 billion in Iron Throne. Was 1 dragon away from a second Iron Throne which would have been a first for me.

Pretty sure that's not a code issue as the rest of us don't have this problem on a plunge. It's an issue with his game that we are trying to figure out over here - https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/got-kicks-ass/page/132#post-5794640