(Topic ID: 148119)

Fire and Blood...Game of Thrones Premium/LE club

By Trekkie1978

5 years ago


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  • Latest reply 1 day ago by atum
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#1901 8 months ago
Quoted from Danch:

I'm having the first maintenance issue I can't figure out on my first machine and wanted to sanity check this with some more experienced folks to make sure I'm headed down the right road:
The left loop rollover was not registering so I replaced it and it seemed to be working ok for a while. Then my dragon kickback wasn't firing at all, or firing late when the ball was on the way back down. The kickback worked in test mode but the opto was registering intermittently in the switch test so I replaced that, but no improvement.
Now during switch test everything will work perfectly for a few minutes but then the rollover, opto, and the targets on each side of the left ramp will stop registering completely while other switches work fine. Then after a few minutes everything goes back to normal for a little while before they stop again. No errors are reported to include the node board tests and I tried reloading software but the problem is still there. All of the affected switches are on node 10 so I'm thinking that may be the culprit? Is there anything else I should try before dropping $200 on a node board?

I had same issue on dragon kick back. Had to pull upper playfield, remove plastic on top of Dragon kickback and throughly clean OPTO sensors. Have not had any issues since.

1 week later
#1902 8 months ago
Quoted from capguntrooper:

I had same issue on dragon kick back. Had to pull upper playfield, remove plastic on top of Dragon kickback and throughly clean OPTO sensors. Have not had any issues since.

I had already tried cleaning and then replaced the opto. Today I swapped the node board with no improvement there either. I ended up finding a wire on one of the ramp targets that was barely hanging on. Once I re-soldered it all of the flaky switches started registering as normal, so I'm back up and running!

2 weeks later
#1903 7 months ago

I have a strange but very specific problem that hopefully someone can help me out with. Occasionally, there is a clicking sound that occurs once or twice (usually twice, a second between clicks) a half second after vibration during a game, most reliably after a flipper is activated. My best guess is that it is coming from somewhere around the right upper playfield, however lifting up the playfield (or perhaps the ball search) temporarily eliminates the problem. The clicking does not score points (bummer) and it follows that the switch test is not helpful even when I agitate the game in a way that usually brings out the clicking noise. The clicking is not associated with any particular mode and is not dependent on any particular ball location. Any help is appreciated, thanks!

#1904 7 months ago
Quoted from Pinpals:

I have a strange but very specific problem that hopefully someone can help me out with. Occasionally, there is a clicking sound that occurs once or twice (usually twice, a second between clicks) a half second after vibration during a game, most reliably after a flipper is activated. My best guess is that it is coming from somewhere around the right upper playfield, however lifting up the playfield (or perhaps the ball search) temporarily eliminates the problem. The clicking does not score points (bummer) and it follows that the switch test is not helpful even when I agitate the game in a way that usually brings out the clicking noise. The clicking is not associated with any particular mode and is not dependent on any particular ball location. Any help is appreciated, thanks!

I remember this from back when the game first came out; it happened to me. It was actually a switch on the upper playfield that was activating when the flippers were activated. When you go into switch test, did you thump on the upper playfield? That might show you the culprit. Just check the gaps on all your upper switches.

#1905 7 months ago

After checking the upper playfield switches by hand with no luck, I did find that pressing the Martell switch recreates the clicking noise, thanks for pointing me in the right direction!

3 months later
#1906 4 months ago

Here is a tech question from an amateur as best as I can express it. Any insight is appreciated.

I am troubleshooting a problem with Game of Thrones LE, which I think I have traced to node board #8, although I can't be sure.

During game play, when all flippers are flipped simultaneously, all four flippers go dead randomly and regularly, independently of ball or switch behavior. Whenever the flippers go dead, the mode lights on the lower playfield visually "sweep" all at once, as though they have all been triggered rapidly, and then they return to normal.

As a test, I have blocked the signal to one or more flippers at a time (by covering up the switch contact points), and if I use just 1, 2, or 3 flippers they all work, but if all four flippers are in use they all die simultaneously. Also, if I simply put all flippers in the hold position (thus reducing the power) and move the ball over switches or even start a multiball by hand, no problems occur as long as the flippers are in the hold position.

I have also gone into the coil test in diagnostics to compare data for the flippers, and the readings I get are these:

Left lower flipper, Return =3, Power = 4
Right lower flipper, Return = 5, Power = 6
Left upper flipper, Return = 5, Power = 6
Right upper flipper, Return = 5, Power = 6

Given these different readings, I have tried replacing the coil on the left lower flipper with a new coil, but the diagnostics readings for the coils remain the same.

With the game turned on but without using the flippers, I have tested the voltage going into the flipper coils from node board #8, and it reads 48V as I believe it should.

I have also tried swapping node board #8 and #11, since they are the same part number, to see what would happen. The game won't play (it just goes into a ball search), but the diagnostics coil test still gives the same readings for return and power with node boards #8 and #11 switched.

From the manual, it looks as though CN4 on node board #8 powers the flippers.

So two questions:

(1) Could someone please go into their diagnostic coil tests on an LE and see if you get the same return and power readings as I do for the flippers? The different readings seem odd to me and perhaps there is a clue there.

(2) Is replacing node board #8 a likely fix? I can do that, but it's an expensive experiment.

Please advise, and many thanks.

#1907 4 months ago

When swapping node boards, be sure to change their IDs too (block of dip switches on there). Then that should not be a problem.

Regarding your trouble: Sounds like your node board is resetting. This is usually caused by voltage fluctuations. Problem is: Spike runs coils off 48V, with an intermediate control voltage of 6V and a CPU operating voltage of 3.3V. Each of these voltages is generated from the 48V (cascaded 48->6->5/3.3) and buffered quite well on the node board. So a glitch on the 48V would have to travel through about 1000uF and 2 regulators to be able to reset the CPU.
Only way I can think of is if a majority of the capacitors on your node board would have gone bad - but there is really no way to test those without special equipment. Or maybe you have an older revision of the board, that has less buffer capacity.
You could try getting your hands on one of the 48V capacitor kits (Stern service bulletin #190: https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Stern-SB190revB.pdf ) and install that before the node board.
I'd give Stern a call about it, they are known to be quite helpful..

#1908 4 months ago
Quoted from cynric:

When swapping node boards, be sure to change their IDs too (block of dip switches on there).

Thanks so much. Question: where are the dip switches on the node boards? I didn't see any.

#1909 4 months ago

There's a tiny switch panel with 3 or 4 switches on each board, maybe with some yellowish tape on it. With the 4 coil node it seems to be right in the middle of the PCB.

#1910 4 months ago
Quoted from cynric:

There's a tiny switch panel with 3 or 4 switches on each board, maybe with some yellowish tape on it. With the 4 coil node it seems to be right in the middle of the PCB.

Thanks--I looked but sure didn't see the switches, but maybe they're just extremely tiny. I note that the manual suggests there are four DIP switches. That's very helpful.

#1911 4 months ago
Quoted from JOESCHALL:

Thanks--I looked but sure didn't see the switches, but maybe they're just extremely tiny. I note that the manual suggests there are four DIP switches. That's very helpful.

Attached is the node board with dipswitches highlighted. You need to swap 8 and 11. Then set the dipswitches. If you don't, as you saw, you will get that error because they don't do the right things. 8 runs into the lower board, and piggy tails into the trough. So its expecting 8 to be the trough opto. Once you switch the dipswitches, you should be up and running again. If you still aren't, call Stern. But more than likely both nodes are fried, and you need to get a new one to replace 8.

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#1912 4 months ago
Quoted from atum:

Attached is the node board with dipswitches highlighted. You need to swap 8 and 11. Then set the dipswitches. If you don't, as you saw, you will get that error because they don't do the right things. 8 runs into the lower board, and piggy tails into the trough. So its expecting 8 to be the trough opto. Once you switch the dipswitches, you should be up and running again. If you still aren't, call Stern. But more than likely both nodes are fried, and you need to get a new one to replace 8

Thanks so much. The visual is extremely helpful. I'll change the dip switches as designated in the manual and see what happens.

#1913 4 months ago

Success--at least as far as I know. Changing the dip switches in the two swapped node boards got rid of the issue of the flippers dying and I played two games with no problems evident. Time will tell, but if a new problem surfaces related to power, I will assume that node board #8 is implicated. Thanks so much to cynric and atum for the great advice. Where would I be without pinside?

The lower left flipper still feels weaker than the others, so I'm curious if that is just the way the game is programmed. In the diagnostics tests for the flippers I still get these readings:

Left lower flipper, Return =3, Power = 4
Right lower flipper, Return = 5, Power = 6
Left upper flipper, Return = 5, Power = 6
Right upper flipper, Return = 5, Power = 6

If someone with A GOT LE can confirm if they get these same readings, that would be useful.

Happy flipping to all!

#1914 4 months ago

I joined the club finally a couple of days ago with a beautiful, very low play LE. I'm a big fan of the TV show and a big fan of Steve Ritchie, so probably should have had the game sooner. At least GoT has been out long enough that I don't have to wait for any software revisions or the topper to come out!

I don't think the previous owner played it much, it looks like it just came out of the box and there are no tweaks or mods - until I got it. I started by going through every picture in this thread and the other main GOT thread and that led me to a lot of tweaks and mods to choose from. I lubed the ram and it acts perfectly. Takes a decent whack to register. I did the DIY sword mod with gold paint, heat shrink and wire. The machine came with side blade art and flipper fidelity speakers uninstalled, so I installed those. I ordered a ColorDMD LCD and will put that in soon. Also ordered speaker light kit, Mezel Crows, real knocker, shaker and a shooter. I did the speed bump mod for the throne bounce outs and it sticks 100% of the time now. Right ramp bounce backs fixed by lifting the shield with rubber post rings as a spacer. Mylar to protect the shooter lane. Most importantly, I've played it a ton and love the game. The upper playfield is awesome. Until now 99% of my experience playing this game has been on the pro. The Pro is a fast fun game, but this is such a great upper playfield I would not want to be without it.

OK so I do have a question. What is the purpose of the plate standing next to the sword lock? I know there used to be a decal for sale to cover that, but I am wondering what it would hurt to remove it? I've played 100 games and haven't seen it prevent a stuck ball or anything like that. I'd like to remove it because it blocks some of the art on the art blades.

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#1915 4 months ago

No idea why they put a plate there.

#1916 4 months ago
Quoted from John_I: OK so I do have a question. What is the purpose of the plate standing next to the sword lock? I know there used to be a decal for sale to cover that, but I am wondering what it would hurt to remove it? I've played 100 games and haven't seen it prevent a stuck ball or anything like that. I'd like to remove it because it blocks some of the art on the art blades.

Not that your LE has or should ever have a wonky pf or cab, but having owned some games in the past where the pf could get twisted when raising and lowering, I'd say it's to prevent the sword from getting f'd up during a said bad pf lift/lowering. Also, it would protect the art blades from the same worst case scenario.

#1917 4 months ago
Quoted from miracleman:

Not that your LE has or should ever have a wonky pf or cab, but having owned some games in the past where the pf could get twisted when raising and lowering, I'd say it's to prevent the sword from getting f'd up during a said bad pf lift/lowering. Also, it would protect the art blades from the same worst case scenario.

Must be something to do with protecting the sword. I don't think they even had side art blades with this came out. I'll be pulling the plate out of the game next time I take the glass off.

#1918 4 months ago

I believe the plate is there to protect people from accidentally hurting themselves on the sword.

If the stickers for it are still for sale, definitely put one on. I would also get the sticker for the spinner too.

#1919 4 months ago

You can also find images on line of the sticker "the man who passes the sentence should swing the sword". Size it, print it, apply some double sided tape and you are ready to go.

#1920 4 months ago
Quoted from John_I:

I joined the club finally a couple of days ago with a beautiful, very low play LE. I'm a big fan of the TV show and a big fan of Steve Ritchie, so probably should have had the game sooner. At least GoT has been out long enough that I don't have to wait for any software revisions or the topper to come out!
I don't think the previous owner played it much, it looks like it just came out of the box and there are no tweaks or mods - until I got it. I started by going through every picture in this thread and the other main GOT thread and that led me to a lot of tweaks and mods to choose from. I lubed the ram and it acts perfectly. Takes a decent whack to register. I did the DIY sword mod with gold paint, heat shrink and wire. The machine came with side blade art and flipper fidelity speakers uninstalled, so I installed those. I ordered a ColorDMD LCD and will put that in soon. Also ordered speaker light kit, Mezel Crows, real knocker, shaker and a shooter. I did the speed bump mod for the throne bounce outs and it sticks 100% of the time now. Right ramp bounce backs fixed by lifting the shield with rubber post rings as a spacer. Mylar to protect the shooter lane. Most importantly, I've played it a ton and love the game. The upper playfield is awesome. Until now 99% of my experience playing this game has been on the pro. The Pro is a fast fun game, but this is such a great upper playfield I would not want to be without it.
OK so I do have a question. What is the purpose of the plate standing next to the sword lock? I know there used to be a decal for sale to cover that, but I am wondering what it would hurt to remove it? I've played 100 games and haven't seen it prevent a stuck ball or anything like that. I'd like to remove it because it blocks some of the art on the art blades.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Blood spatter of course, why else would they put the plate there? Wait.....maybe wrong thread.

#1921 4 months ago
Quoted from capguntrooper:

Blood spatter of course, why else would they put the plate there? Wait.....maybe wrong thread.

I was installing the shaker motor today and figured out the real answer. It is to protect the sword from getting damaged when you are raising the playfield in case you let balls fly out of the ball trough. I always stuff a rag into the ball shooter lane to keep balls from spilling out, so no big deal to remove the plate and put it in my coin box. The game looks a lot better without it because it was blocking the art on the side blade.

Shaker is a must for this game. Just having it bump when you hit the battering ram makes the cost of the shaker worthwhile.

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#1922 4 months ago

Yup, shaker is 100$ well spent. I recommend setting it to the lowest strength though. Then it is just activated long enough to give a single shake on each hit or wing flap, which really benefits immersion imho. Hitting the super jackpot still fires off a blast!

#1923 4 months ago

Andy from Rocket City Pinball came over the other night and we found the perfect spot for the dire wolf through trial and error. I'm really happy look how he looks.

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#1924 4 months ago

Would agree, looks good, like it belongs.

#1925 4 months ago
Quoted from John_I:

Andy from Rocket City Pinball came over the other night and we found the perfect spot for the dire wolf through trial and error. I'm really happy look how he looks.

Thanks John! Glad we found a spot for him, he looks great there!

I've now officially added a Premium/LE variation to the listing in my shop -- see listing here https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1282-rocket-city-pinball/04231-white-wolf-mod-for-got-or-bsd -- because the mount for his foot has to be oriented differently than for the Pro. Here's a few more pics I had too.

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2 weeks later
#1926 3 months ago
Quoted from atum:

Attached is the node board with dipswitches highlighted. You need to swap 8 and 11. Then set the dipswitches. If you don't, as you saw, you will get that error because they don't do the right things. 8 runs into the lower board, and piggy tails into the trough. So its expecting 8 to be the trough opto. Once you switch the dipswitches, you should be up and running again. If you still aren't, call Stern. But more than likely both nodes are fried, and you need to get a new one to replace 8.

Going back several posts, I did switch the identical node boards 8 and 11 and reset the dipswitches as recommended above to see the result. As a result, the machine problem transferred elsewhere (to other kickers and switches), confirming that node board 8 was bad. The Stern tech confirmed this approach and diagnosis as well. I finally replaced node board 8 and the game is 100% again. Thanks to several pinsiders for your excellent advice!

#1927 3 months ago
Quoted from JOESCHALL:

...confirming that node board 8 was bad. The Stern tech confirmed this approach and diagnosis as well. I finally replaced node board 8 and the game is 100% again

Glad that worked out. May I ask what they charged for the node board?

#1928 3 months ago

this same thing happened to me 18 months ago and I was charged $200 plus tax for the board

#1929 3 months ago
Quoted from markp99:

Glad that worked out. May I ask what they charged for the node board?

The game was out of warranty, so I had to buy the board from a supplier. Indeed, 200+ for the board.

#1930 3 months ago

If it helps at all, they used to cost way more. Haha

#1931 3 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

If it helps at all, they used to cost way more. Haha

It is a big bite in the a$$ and it certainly challenges the notion of Stern's "node board solutions" being simple and desirable. It reminds me of why I and many other pinheads I know prefer the Williams games for serviceability.

#1932 3 months ago
Quoted from JOESCHALL:

It is a big bite in the a$$ and it certainly challenges the notion of Stern's "node board solutions" being simple and desirable. It reminds me of why I and many other pinheads I know prefer the Williams games for serviceability.

There’s plenty of times that Williams boards need replaced too and they are just as expensive if not more.

Sterns can be repaired, just takes a different skill set / tools that many don’t have.

#1933 3 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

There’s plenty of times that Williams boards need replaced too and they are just as expensive if not more.

Sterns can be repaired, just takes a different skill set / tools that many don’t have.

I hear ya, and I am one of those "many."

#1934 3 months ago

OK so I am having a problem with my topper. Sometimes the wings move and others they just stutter and you can hear a sound like gears slipping. Before I dig into it, I am hoping that someone here has fixed this before and can give me a quick rundown on how to proceed and what to look for. Thanks. I will post the fix here either way.

#1935 3 months ago
Quoted from John_I:

OK so I am having a problem with my topper. Sometimes the wings move and others they just stutter and you can hear a sound like gears slipping. Before I dig into it, I am hoping that someone here has fixed this before and can give me a quick rundown on how to proceed and what to look for. Thanks. I will post the fix here either way.

Alright I guess I'll answer my own question. After a little head scratching it turned out to be a simple fix. The mechanism is a motor spinning a cam which flaps the wings. I noticed there was a set screw on the shaft that takes a tiny 1/16th hex key, but it was already tight. Then I noticed the whole motor assembly the dragon sits on was bent forward and the front of the shaft was rubbing on the back of the light housing. I bent it backwards to give about 1/4 inch of clearance and now it works just fine. My guess is that it got bent somewhere when the machine was getting moved before it got to my house because I don't think it has been right since I GoT it.

3 weeks later
#1936 86 days ago

I recently replaced two node boards on my GOT LE and although this addressed the specific problems I was having with flipper power, I am now having a problem with at least one opto (perhaps more than one) that I'm getting ready to troubleshoot. However, I notice that on every node board under the playfield there are two green LED indicators. The larger LED on each board is lit solid, which I assume is normal, but the smaller LED on each board (located close to the DIP switches) flashes rapidly and constantly. Can someone please confirm if this rapid flashing is normal or whether it is a potential indicator of a problem? I double checked that the DIP switches on the two node boards I replaced are set correctly, but I'm wondering if this rapid flashing means anything.

#1937 85 days ago

Answering my own question from my previous post after looking through a Spike system manual. It appears that the rapid flashing of the LEDs--which are yellow, not green--just indicates that the system is running. Thank you to all pinsiders for not embarrassing me with a response.

1 month later
#1938 53 days ago

I got my new Start button and coin rejects from Rocket City Pinball. They are on Pinside Marketplace. Both of these items look really cool and better in person than my pictures could show. The coin returns look great with contrasting colors and really pop with the back-lighting.

The Start button is a new product that completely replaces the original Start button with a larger button similar to the new Sterns or JJP games. The bigger size makes the design and back light on the button standout and really look great. Everything is an easy install and Rocket City has great instructions and videos for the install.

Edit: Ugh posted wrong pictures. Fixed...

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3 weeks later
#1939 32 days ago

Hi folks,
First, my apologies if this post is considered improper: I do not own a GoT table (yet), and I may never get that privilege - I'm on the west coast of Canada, and besides the tables being very expensive, they're also very hard to come by!

To combat that, I am attempting to produce a tribute to the table as best I can in Virtual Pinball (VPX). To that end, I was wondering if anyone would be willing to share with me any high-res photos or scans they have of their plastics or playfields.

I want to emphasize that this is strictly for personal use - I hope to be able to share the table on legitimate VPX sites, but never sell it. I loved the show, I've only had the opportunity to play the table once (before I had even watched the show!), but while studying the table for this project, I am falling in love with it. Any help anyone can provide would be most appreciated!

-Steve

#1940 32 days ago

Did GOT code always kill all dragons when you select Targaryen? Seems like it makes the game on the easy side to complete.

#1941 30 days ago
Quoted from manadams:

Did GOT code always kill all dragons when you select Targaryen? Seems like it makes the game on the easy side to complete.

On earlier code versions you couldn't select Targaryen. Now that you can, yes it completes all 3 dragons. But you lose all the points you would have gotten by playing them. You also get a relatively crappy house power, freeze all timers.

#1942 30 days ago
Quoted from manadams:

Did GOT code always kill all dragons when you select Targaryen? Seems like it makes the game on the easy side to complete.

That's also a setting. You can have it kill 0, 1, 2, or 3 dragons based on which setting you choose. Sounds like this is set to kill all three.

#1943 30 days ago

any interest in my extra set of GOT side stickers?

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#1944 29 days ago

Any idea what the original Stern toppers go for these days? Not sure if the originals are still available anywhere? Thanks for the help.

1 week later
#1945 18 days ago
Quoted from atum:

That's also a setting. You can have it kill 0, 1, 2, or 3 dragons based on which setting you choose. Sounds like this is set to kill all three.

Was 0 an option? I don't remember that, in thought it was just 1, 2, or 3.

Anyway yes, you can set it so it doesn't defeat them all -- BUT, if you choose this, it automatically awards you the points for dragons already defeated. This is a bug, IMO, because you shouldn't be awarded 60M (or whatever it was) right off the bat just for choosing a house and launching a ball. Especially at my house where I have a scoreboard for guests -- and a lot of inexperienced players to whom a free 60M is significant.

#1946 17 days ago

Valar Morghulis!

I am in the club

Had a pro, sold it, missed it, found now a Premium.

With nice additions (Color, Shaker, Convolux, invsible glass and much more).

Only one thing is not like new on my machine, which i have seen on other Premium /LE also.
The front plastic of the castle is cracked. Have signed in the picture, what i mean.

I do not want to buy a whole set of plastics only for replacing this.

So my question: Is there a solution or a mod, which covers this area?

Thank you.

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#1947 17 days ago

Mezel Mods used to make great molded castles for all models...I'd highly recommend it but not sure if they're still doing it.

#1948 17 days ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

Mezel Mods used to make great molded castles for all models...

I have this mod; it looks great!

#1949 17 days ago

Thanks, but i can not find this on his website.
Do you have a link for me beelzeboob?
Do you have pictures markp99?
Thanks.

#1950 17 days ago

Like I said...they probably don't make them anymore. Doesn't hurt to send them an email and check.

There are 1966 posts in this topic. You are on page 39 of 40.

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