But if you turn the backbox brightness down to like 10% during gameplay, it’s shouldn’t be as distracting when those moments occur.

What house do you hail from?
And yes my backbox is at 10%.

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I have a Laseriffic topper for sale.

They go for $235, but I'll take a fair offer on it.

Private message if you're interested.

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Just had a game for the ages. Went into HOTK with Lannister, Targaryan, Tyrell, and Greyjoy. Had a 5x rolling the whole time. Made 2 super jackpots. Eventually made it to Iron Throne but didn't last too long. This doubled my last GC which had shot about an hour earlier. Before today my highest was a cpl in the 5 mil range.

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That’s an insane HOTK. Well done! It’s honestly impressive that you made it to IT, had a 10bil HOTK, and ended with under 13 bil. Haha

Good evening, I have not kept up with this thread, I am having a problem with the sword dropping balls giving multiballs although not earned. Switch test shows all switches working properly. Has anyone else had this problem? Any known fixes available? Thank you in advance!

Is there a video tutorial out there with the newest code? All I can find is old stuff.

Question: I'm running code V1.37, which I believe it is the latest version. Yesterday while playing I noticed that after I chose a house and released the ball, the ball no longer makes it to the upper playfield as it did before. It bounces off the diverter into the pop bumpers. During game play the ball does the loop from left to right and right to left so nothing is blocking the loop. Is this a consequence of the new code or should I check the settings?

Code drops are taking away stackables, being re-written for hardware defects and now this. SMH

Pretty sure that's not a code issue as the rest of us don't have this problem on a plunge. It's an issue with his game that we are trying to figure out over here - https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/got-kicks-ass/page/132#post-5794640

I have noticed that the ball saver timer is relatively longer if you make a dragon shot off a soft plunge, which is a nice alternative to just going for the pop bumpers every time

It’s because you don’t start the ball save until you’ve hit that switch. When it’s in the pops it’s wasting the ball save time. Never plunge to the pops to take advantage of this.

Sorry I meant the drop targets not the pop bumpers, it seems like, compared to the other house shots, targaryen gives you more ball save time

Both immediately validate the playfield so whatever the ball save is set to, hitting the kickback or the drops should start that timer immediately. Nothing extends that or pauses it to my knowledge. If it is longer from hitting the kickback, could be a bug.

Mystery resolved. Two weeks ago I installed a shooter lane protector. This protector created enough of a gap that would not allow the switch at the plunger to signal the left orbit gate to open and allow the ball go through to the VUK. I removed the new shooter lane protector and ... it is now working perfectly. Conversely, I could leave the shooter lane protector and adjust the arm of the switch in order to recognize the ball, but since this pin is HUO I'll just leave the shooter lane protector out.

Thanks to everyone.

On my LE, and I assume all other games, the timer does pause whenever animations that are queued up are played on the screen. This means that house callouts and animation do not pause the timer. Bumpers pause the timer when its rapid hit, but the lose that time when its falling down the orbit. But Lock and the Castle Multiball counter freeze the timer until they have had a chance to play, at which point it resumes. So Targaryen takes longer because the countdown for Castle Multiball has to show the stone rotating. So it freezes the timer until then. It is the same thing with the first ball lock on Tyrell shots. You can extend this quite a bit, if you can keep playing other video clips, as this will be queued up until all else is free. The best combo is to do Targaryen, particularly if you get the long shout out after shot 2, and then Tyrell for the ball locks, its about 10 seconds until the animation plays that resumes the timer.

I have been able to get Targaryen qualified (3 shots), Greyjoy qualified (3 shots), Baratheon (1 shot), and Tyrell (2 shots w/ ball lock) all during a ball save one time. So basically hit Targaryen off the plunge, and then keep hitting shots that queue slides, and then bring back Targaryen and keep going that way. It can extend it to be well over 30 seconds of ball save, so then you have no risk. If I am playing for the end game and know that I have to beat Targaryen, this is 100% the strategy to go with, as you can get a lot of risky shots out of the way with no risk of a quick ball end. Then once its over, I go to the safe shots, or pick off controlled shots.

I haven't been to war with Game of Thrones in a week. Went Cold Turkey. Been showing some love to other games that I own. I'll shall raise my sword come Monday. #Live by the Sword, Die by the Sword.

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Tomorrow night 7 pm eastern

www.twitch.tv/SDTMpinball

Doing my final GOT tutorial on the premium/LE unique rules!

YouTube link for my premium tutorial! Enjoy!

Yay, looking forward to digging into this one!

Finally had some time to get some games in on my Premium. Sad to say it's been sitting unplayed for a couple months. I was starting to get into the game and realized one of the switches wasn't working on the upper playfield. All the connections underneath look fine. I'm hoping it's just a loose wire and not a node board issue. Anyway, if I'm taking the upper playfield off, I may as well shop the game out. It's one of the dirtiest games I've ever seen. I plan on going with Titan bands and some new coil sleeves. The flippers actually feel fine but will probably get a rebuild anyway. Anything else I should have on hand that is specific to this game once I have it all apart? Any teardown tips? I did find the upper playfield removal instructions on another thread.

Get used to it is all I’ll say. I have to tear mine apart every few hundred plays and clean it. That upper playfield makes the game so dirty so quick.

My Tron was like that. Once I ditched the stock rubber and the black disc it was fine. What about the upper playfield makes it dirty? Does the dust from the upper flipper mechs have a path to the lower playfield?

I can second this! I have to tear down this machine twice as much as any other. I do believe the dust from the upper playfield grimes up the machine. Once you take off that upper playfield don't be surprised by the huge amount of grime on the huge plastic underneath. Also the ball trails happen fast on this machine. I probably change the rubbers and balls more than any other as well.

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Yes. The flippers from the upper playfield spread dirt everywhere. The stock black rubbers were replaced on mine since day one.

In the past while cleaning, I had noticed small metal shards were appearing along with the normal coil dust. I lined the upper playfield's sheet metal mechanisms with strips of Mylar, where the ball exits (backside) and returns to the playfield. Gives the ball a little padding, reduces any galling and flaking of the galvanized steel surfaces.

Filthy!

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Oh wow that is much worse then mine has ever been. You must have put on a ton of games since the last breakdown. Let's see the big plastic underneath the upper playfield.

Jesus. You might not ever get the green ramp looking clean again.

This one? I bought the game off route. I'd say it's never been cleaned but there is a bunch of white rubber on the game and a handful of incorrect screws. This playfield has definitely been off before.

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Had that filth GoT on the carpet and your married, your going to get all 6 pinball throne your way. See what I did there.

Ha! This is the game room and the carpet is pretty worn. All the upstairs carpet has been replaced, so she can't (shouldn't) complain.

It took 3 1/2 episodes of Trial 4 on Netflix (good but very slow) to clean this bucket of plastics. A lot of elbow grease and some flame polishing on the clears. It's not perfect but a million times better,

2nd picture, one of the posts is shrink wrapped instead of using a post rubber. Presumably because a post rubber wouldn't fit. Is this normal?

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Use the shrink wrap as the post rubber prevents orbits

Is shrink wrap directly on the post recommended over the coil sleeve method you posted awhile ago?

I used trimmed coil sleeves w/shrink tubing applied. I also enlarged the diverter bracket mounting holes by one step (also described in this thread). I get decent orbits.

Its shrink wrap over a coil sleeve as I first created back when game first came out. you will also need to enable orbits as Stern rewrote their code to fix their hardware defects.

Mine was shrink wrapped directly to the red plastic. I cut it off, no coil sleeve. Is there a benefit to having the coil sleeve?

keeps the lane guide from getting cracked

The ramps cleaned up nicely. I should have spent a little more time on the green ramp removing ball trails before flame polishing. The pictures are a little forgiving. Overall very satisfied. On to the mini playfield!

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Looks better, When I first got my LE I had a little scratch on the bottom of my right ramp and they sent me two new ones.

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The topper is next. Purchased a LCD ColorDMD for GoT today. Plus one for Metallica, TWD and Mustang. And saved some money. free shipping ha

I'd love to get this one back, I regret selling it and miss it.
If anyone in CO is debating selling a premium or LE please hit me up!

Do any distributors have a game of thrones topper?

Good luck with search, I love mine, but they should make more interactive and throw in more sound effects.

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What's s used GoT topper going for. Asking for a friend of a friend.

I have a brand new in box Game of Thrones topper one of you can have for $400.00 shipped (in upper 48). Here are photos. I would prefer not to take it out of the packaging, as it is always hard to repackage, but I will if you need to see it better. They go for $499. Jim

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That's a fair price, I paid $400 for mine NIB also from another pinhead. One of the best Stern toppers, for sure.

Installed all 4 this week. GoT,Met,Mustang and TWD. 3D printed box to block light and dust. Just noticed flash. My bad

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I'm having the first maintenance issue I can't figure out on my first machine and wanted to sanity check this with some more experienced folks to make sure I'm headed down the right road:

The left loop rollover was not registering so I replaced it and it seemed to be working ok for a while. Then my dragon kickback wasn't firing at all, or firing late when the ball was on the way back down. The kickback worked in test mode but the opto was registering intermittently in the switch test so I replaced that, but no improvement.

Now during switch test everything will work perfectly for a few minutes but then the rollover, opto, and the targets on each side of the left ramp will stop registering completely while other switches work fine. Then after a few minutes everything goes back to normal for a little while before they stop again. No errors are reported to include the node board tests and I tried reloading software but the problem is still there. All of the affected switches are on node 10 so I'm thinking that may be the culprit? Is there anything else I should try before dropping $200 on a node board?