(Topic ID: 148119)

Fire and Blood...Game of Thrones Premium/LE club

By Trekkie1978

8 years ago


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#1751 3 years ago
Quoted from zaki:

ok dumb question..i've had mine 3.5 years, so it definitely needs cleaned under the castle. how hard is it to take off that castle? i'm not technical or anything.
in the past, because of my limited tech skills, i've used a toothbrush with a old tshirt cloth on it, and a touch of mills wax- to stick in tunnels and hard to reach areas to clean. it works pretty well.

Look a couple posts up. He details it out very well.

#1752 3 years ago

Yes, Castle = Upper PF. LOL
It's not too bad. I've also always done the toothbrush/t-shirt etc, but you can only reach so far.

#1753 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Look a couple posts up. He details it out very well.

thanks. i missed that. i've had bad luck with mods and doing things like this. i may avoid this for now. i'm trying to find some bendable device i can do to tooth brush trick on to clean under there better.

#1754 3 years ago

Yeah it’s a bandaid imo. Gets the ball trails out of those sight lines, but we all know how filthy it is under the upper playfield. Haha

#1755 3 years ago

man, i wish they made these things easier to clean. i heard the black knight sor upper areas comes off easily. batman 66 is another hard game to clean with the rotating phone and car.

#1756 3 years ago

This is about as easy as it can get. I forgot about the four screws for the dragon. It’s literally two connectors and 8-10 screws. Pull off, but back on.

#1757 3 years ago

Plus, if you look at those pictures I posted, doing the toothbrush thing won't get to the large plastic that covers those areas. It will be black.

#1758 3 years ago
Quoted from zaki:

ok dumb question..i've had mine 3.5 years, so it definitely needs cleaned under the castle. how hard is it to take off that castle? i'm not technical or anything.
in the past, because of my limited tech skills, i've used a toothbrush with a old tshirt cloth on it, and a touch of mills wax- to stick in tunnels and hard to reach areas to clean. it works pretty well.

Post #16 on my thread gives detailed instructions and pictures on removing mini playfield
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/game-of-thrones-le-311-house-lannister

#1759 3 years ago
Quoted from capguntrooper:

Post #16 on my thread gives detailed instructions and pictures on removing mini playfield
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/game-of-thrones-le-311-house-lannister

Sweet......thanks for that. Direct link: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/game-of-thrones-le-311-house-lannister#post-2900664

I assume the ramp entrance flap screws are wood screws, and not bolts that have a nut on the under side of the PF. It always makes me nervous that with repeated loosening/tightening of wood screws on the PF, that eventually the holes will get stripped out. But I guess I can always do the toothpick/glue trick if that happens to get "bite" again.

Yeah, if that playfield is just disconnect the wiring harness and screws...super simple. Plenty of other machines that are MUCH harder to access parts of the PF for cleaning.

And yeah...the flipper coils are under the upper playfield but right above the normal PF? Of course that area is going to get filthy. Coils and movement from the flipper arms get black metal dust everywhere...quickly. I was almost thinking the upper PF was going to be like WOZ where the flipper bats and bushings are extra long so the coils are below the lower PF.

No big deal though.

#1760 3 years ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

I might be doing more than I need, but this is how I do it.
5. Remove the two small screws on the upper ramp flap, two more on the lower ramp flap, and one screw that holds the ramp on a post. Push the ramp over to the right about an inch to free it from the upper PF.

The only difference for me is that I just do the two screws on the upper ramp flap. I don't actually loosen the rest of it. There is enough wiggle if you roll the upper playfield just a bit, it works just fine. A little harder to put it back on, but I figured the less I mess around with wood screws the better!

And you don't have to take off the Iron Throne habitrail, but for two quick screws, I find it much easier than having to work around it coming in and out.

#1761 3 years ago

You gotta take that upper playfield off as well as the ramps to really clean, wax, and re-ring it. Take plenty of pictures and thank me later. My game is four + years old, and I just finished doing a complete cleaning, waxing and re-ringing yesterday. It took at least eight hours over two days, although I changed a few light sockets. Get a can of electric contact cleaner for removing the black dust in flipper mechanisms. I put the glow in the dark rings. After completion, played just a few games, wow! The reward: I have to turn down the flipper power! It Is too fast and comes off those close targets at a damaging pace. GITD rings are cool too. It’s like a NEW GAME, so suck it up and just do it. If I can - you can.

#1762 3 years ago

It took me 20 months. (See Photo)
Man what a battle. Completed all houses but Tyrell, it was flashing and the others stayed lite as the ball when down the outlane.
Now I'll do a complete tear down and clean this from top to bottom.

20200420_180830-1 (resized).jpg20200420_180830-1 (resized).jpg
#1764 3 years ago

Ok, went and picked up the pin!

First thing I did, was install the Stern quiet fan mod (luckily I had an extra), and install 1.37. Then, you were all right, it was pretty easy to get the upper PF off. But man, it was dirty! Not sure if the previous owner ever cleaned it but ...I do know these get dirty quickly. Menu says only 450 plays but you never know the truth there.

20200420_204657 (resized).jpg20200420_204657 (resized).jpg

Of course...when I saw the condition of all the ramps and PF black dust under plastics....I just had to keep going and did a full PF teardown.

20200421_083447 (resized).jpg20200421_083447 (resized).jpg

So...that took about...8-10 hours. I just want to play though! Got her cleaned and waxed though ->

20200421_141229 (resized).jpg20200421_141229 (resized).jpg

Took 4 microfiber towels (using both sides) to get 'er done though.

20200421_163503 (resized).jpg20200421_163503 (resized).jpg

Some thoughts:

1. This pin was on the harder end of PF tear downs. Mainly...just way more screws than I thought should be there (13 screws for the large plastic under the upper PF? ). And like for light cleaning, making things like the ramp plastic turn covers unremovable stinks. Since there are nuts on the bottom, you have to remove the entire ramp to remove the covering.

20200421_072942 (resized).jpg20200421_072942 (resized).jpg

Compared to a newer IMDN, where it takes 5 seconds to remove the cover ->

maiden (resized).pngmaiden (resized).png

2. I cleaned the lower PF flippers just like normal. But the only thing I didn't clean on this teardown was the upper PF flippers. How in the world am I supposed to take those flippers apart and then retighten them? Its hard enough cleaning the thing without breaking plastics. But it seems like I need some kind of 4 post contraption to screw the PF onto temporarily to elevate it so I have enough room to tighten/adjust the flippers?

20200421_140049 (resized).jpg20200421_140049 (resized).jpg

3. Iron Throne.
a. Where is the ball supposed to land after it gets pushed out? Looks like mine just hits the plastic just south of the southern most bumper (south being towards player).
b. Are there supposed to be nuts on the top of these posts?
throne (resized).pngthrone (resized).png

4. (EDIT: removed. I read about the left orbit fix)

5. Got 'er done!

20200421_165944 (resized).jpg20200421_165944 (resized).jpg

#1765 3 years ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Ok, went and picked up the pin!
First thing I did, was install the Stern quiet fan mod (luckily I had an extra), and install 1.37. Then, you were all right, it was pretty easy to get the upper PF off. But man, it was dirty! Not sure if the previous owner ever cleaned it but ...I do know these get dirty quickly. Menu says only 450 plays but you never know the truth there.
[quoted image]
Of course...when I saw the condition of all the ramps and PF black dust under plastics....I just had to keep going and did a full PF teardown.
[quoted image]
So...that took about...8-10 hours. I just want to play though! Got her cleaned and waxed though ->
[quoted image]
Took 4 microfiber towels (using both sides) to get 'er done though.
[quoted image]
Some thoughts:
1. This pin was on the harder end of PF tear downs. Mainly...just way more screws than I thought should be there (13 screws for the large plastic under the upper PF? ). And like for light cleaning, making things like the ramp plastic turn covers unremovable stinks. Since there are nuts on the bottom, you have to remove the entire ramp to remove the covering.
[quoted image]
Compared to a newer IMDN, where it takes 5 seconds to remove the cover ->
[quoted image]
2. I cleaned the lower PF flippers just like normal. But the only thing I didn't clean on this teardown was the upper PF flippers. How in the world am I supposed to take those flippers apart and then retighten them? Its hard enough cleaning the thing without breaking plastics. But it seems like I need some kind of 4 post contraption to screw the PF onto temporarily to elevate it so I have enough room to tighten/adjust the flippers?
[quoted image]
3. Iron Throne.
a. Where is the ball supposed to land after it gets pushed out? Looks like mine just hits the plastic just south of the southern most bumper (south being towards player).
b. Are there supposed to be nuts on the top of these posts?
[quoted image]
4. I've already changed the menu settings to re-enable left orbits. However...they still don't work, so I'm going to have to do the diverter fix. However, just for testing...are left orbits pass-through only during Martell battle and any time the left orbit has a red flashing light for a combo? Or is there another time when left orbits also are supposed to work?
5. Got 'er done!
[quoted image]

You need to get the spinner sticker and the sticker for the sword lock plate.

I'm not one for mods, but they look stock.

#1766 3 years ago
Quoted from Trekkie1978:

You need to get the spinner sticker and the sticker for the sword lock plate.
I'm not one for mods, but they look stock.

I knew about the sword lock plate sticker...not the spinner sticker though. Yeah, I guess the original spinner looks like it should be on star trek or something.

The sword lock plate is odd though...I have no idea what its even doing there. I don't see what it could be protecting from. I have half a mind to just remove it (unless someone tells me its use).

Also... I just realized that the slingshot/lane plastic protectors that came with this pin (but not installed), that I went ahead and put on are actually for the Pro. They also seem extra wide/thick. I'll have to decide to live with it or not.

Lastly....is there a known issue with the autolaunch? 50% of the time the ball hits something and rattles around right before the right orbit success switch. Its probably been happening for a while since the two small plastics to the right of the rightmost pop bumper are cracked.

#1767 3 years ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

I knew about the sword lock plate sticker...not the spinner sticker though. Yeah, I guess the original spinner looks like it should be on star trek or something.
The sword lock plate is odd though...I have no idea what its even doing there. I don't see what it could be protecting from. I have half a mind to just remove it (unless someone tells me its use).
Also... I just realized that the slingshot/lane plastic protectors that came with this pin (but not installed), that I went ahead and put on are actually for the Pro. They also seem extra wide/thick. I'll have to decide to live with it or not.
Lastly....is there a known issue with the autolaunch? 50% of the time the ball hits something and rattles around right before the right orbit success switch. Its probably been happening for a while since the two small plastics to the right of the rightmost pop bumper are cracked.

I was kind of wondering why those plastics weren't matching. They're thick cause of the plastic protectors under them. You should call your rep and see if you can order those plastics only directly from Stern. You're gonna want a different colored protector, the brown won't work with the blue plastics.

IMO, the sword plate is so when you raise and lower the playfield, the sword doesn't catch the side.

#1768 3 years ago

Nice job Gogdog! Now you have a fantastic playing, like new, pinball machine. Thanks for the pictures; mine looked like yours, and I did take the upper playfield off approx. two years ago. My guess is: the upper playfield flippers generate the black dust that permeates the area. Thanks again.

#1769 3 years ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

3. Iron Throne.
a. Where is the ball supposed to land after it gets pushed out? Looks like mine just hits the plastic just south of the southern most bumper (south being towards player).

If you have the default setting for auto-adjust plunger strength on iron throne eject, this will level itself out. It takes about 5 or 6 plunges and will get softer each time. So it'll hit the plastic in the middle, then work its way back until it falls in between all the bumper, barely falls out of the throne. Then it will stay at that level. Not sure what adjustment it is (likely under GOT adjustments), but its the default on. So as long as that is on, you should see this go away after just a few games.

#1770 3 years ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Ok, went and picked up the pin!
First thing I did, was install the Stern quiet fan mod (luckily I had an extra), and install 1.37. Then, you were all right, it was pretty easy to get the upper PF off. But man, it was dirty! Not sure if the previous owner ever cleaned it but ...I do know these get dirty quickly. Menu says only 450 plays but you never know the truth there.
[quoted image]
Of course...when I saw the condition of all the ramps and PF black dust under plastics....I just had to keep going and did a full PF teardown.
[quoted image]
So...that took about...8-10 hours. I just want to play though! Got her cleaned and waxed though ->
[quoted image]
Took 4 microfiber towels (using both sides) to get 'er done though.
[quoted image]
Some thoughts:
1. This pin was on the harder end of PF tear downs. Mainly...just way more screws than I thought should be there (13 screws for the large plastic under the upper PF? ). And like for light cleaning, making things like the ramp plastic turn covers unremovable stinks. Since there are nuts on the bottom, you have to remove the entire ramp to remove the covering.
[quoted image]
Compared to a newer IMDN, where it takes 5 seconds to remove the cover ->
[quoted image]
2. I cleaned the lower PF flippers just like normal. But the only thing I didn't clean on this teardown was the upper PF flippers. How in the world am I supposed to take those flippers apart and then retighten them? Its hard enough cleaning the thing without breaking plastics. But it seems like I need some kind of 4 post contraption to screw the PF onto temporarily to elevate it so I have enough room to tighten/adjust the flippers?
[quoted image]
3. Iron Throne.
a. Where is the ball supposed to land after it gets pushed out? Looks like mine just hits the plastic just south of the southern most bumper (south being towards player).
b. Are there supposed to be nuts on the top of these posts?
[quoted image]
4. (EDIT: removed. I read about the left orbit fix)
5. Got 'er done!
[quoted image]

Your game now looks awesome. I would recommend getting blue inlane guides to all premium owners. Why Stern left the red ones from the pro on a predominently blue playfiled I'll never understand. A pair is only $12 plus shipping. They look SO much better.

https://www.pinballlife.com/data-eastsegastern-return-lane-guide.html

#1771 3 years ago
Quoted from atum:

If you have the default setting for auto-adjust plunger strength on iron throne eject, this will level itself out. It takes about 5 or 6 plunges and will get softer each time. So it'll hit the plastic in the middle, then work its way back until it falls in between all the bumper, barely falls out of the throne. Then it will stay at that level. Not sure what adjustment it is (likely under GOT adjustments), but its the default on. So as long as that is on, you should see this go away after just a few games.

Sweet thanks.

Quoted from LOTR_breath:

Your game now looks awesome. I would recommend getting blue inlane guides to all premium owners. Why Stern left the red ones from the pro on a predominently blue playfiled I'll never understand. A pair is only $12 plus shipping. They look SO much better.
https://www.pinballlife.com/data-eastsegastern-return-lane-guide.html

Oh yeah.....I can definitely see getting blue as an improvement. Thanks for the tip.

Quoted from Trekkie1978:

IMO, the sword plate is so when you raise and lower the playfield, the sword doesn't catch the side.

You know...I think you are right. I think its to protect the operator. I don't think its so much as the sword catching the side of the cabinet (you would have to really twist the whole playfield to do that instead of just lowering/raising it straight). I think its just to protect the mechanism while the operator is cleaning the pin, or just at its side. Like....right a second ago when I was lifting the PF up over the "bump" on the rails so I can finish sliding it into place, I noticed I was touching the sword lock plate with my stomach. If it wasn't there my stomach might have been pushing against the sword instead. Or if the PF is completely raised up, maybe the sword is at eye level, so again...its to protect the Operator...

#1772 3 years ago

Looking nice.

For the upper playfield flippers, I just laid the mini playfield on it's side when I did mine. Was easy enough and I didn't feel like it was going to hurt anything.

#1773 3 years ago
Quoted from 85vett:

Looking nice.
For the upper playfield flippers, I just laid the mini playfield on it's side when I did mine. Was easy enough and I didn't feel like it was going to hurt anything.

Looks like you are right. OK, I get to retake it off today to clean those flipper mechs!

#1774 3 years ago
Quoted from Trekkie1978:

You need to get the spinner sticker and the sticker for the sword lock plate.
I'm not one for mods, but they look stock.

Do you have a link to the sticker for the sword lock plate? Spinner sticker?

#1776 3 years ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Looks like you are right. OK, I get to retake it off today to clean those flipper mechs!

If I may add a couple mod suggestions for the mini PF.

Get some lightening flippers and then 2 small matrix strips (3 LED length) before doing that. I added the lightening flippers (in black) as cosmetically they fit better but it also helps with the mini PF not being a gimmie anymore. The two 3 LED strips go under the plastics by each flipper to light up those plastics (like the inlanes by your main flippers). You will also need a matrix splitter and one of the 47 base matrix bulbs ( I put it in the GI socket under the mini PF.

2 of these - https://www.cometpinball.com/products/lighting-strips
1 of these - https://www.cometpinball.com/products/quick-connects
1 of these - https://www.cometpinball.com/products/matrix-splitter-wires
1 or 2 of these in 12 inches wouldn't hurt either - https://www.cometpinball.com/products/matrix-extension-wires

Those two mods really completed the mini PF for me.

#1777 3 years ago
Quoted from 85vett:

If I may add a couple mod suggestions for the mini PF.
Get some lightening flippers and then 2 small matrix strips (3 LED length) before doing that. I added the lightening flippers (in black) as cosmetically they fit better but it also helps with the mini PF not being a gimmie anymore. The two 3 LED strips go under the plastics by each flipper to light up those plastics (like the inlanes by your main flippers). You will also need a matrix splitter and one of the 47 base matrix bulbs ( I put it in the GI socket under the mini PF.
2 of these - https://www.cometpinball.com/products/lighting-strips
1 of these - https://www.cometpinball.com/products/quick-connects
1 of these - https://www.cometpinball.com/products/matrix-splitter-wires
1 or 2 of these in 12 inches wouldn't hurt either - https://www.cometpinball.com/products/matrix-extension-wires
Those two mods really completed the mini PF for me.

I have plenty of comet strips...though do you have a pic of what it looks like?

#1779 3 years ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

I have plenty of comet strips...though do you have a pic of what it looks like?

Just grabbed one for you. It's not over the top difference but I really liked the subtle differences with the lit inlanes and the lightening flippers.

1 (resized).jpg1 (resized).jpg
#1780 3 years ago

Also, for you new owners. An oldie but goodie CHEAP mod that makes a huge difference. I can't take credit for it and I don't recall the first to do it but take some copper wire, gold paint and some black heat shrink to your sword.

You paint the handle gold (you can barely see where it stops right above the pivot joint in the picture). Then black heat shirk at the grip covered by some wound wire.

My camera kind of sucks but hopefully you get the idea. Really makes it look more realistic.

2 (resized).jpg2 (resized).jpg
#1781 3 years ago

I think my boy WeirPinball did this first. Yeah dressing up the stock sword is best. I bought an aftermarket sword and it snapped in half after like 50 plays.

#1782 3 years ago
Quoted from 85vett:

Just grabbed one for you. It's not over the top difference but I really liked the subtle differences with the lit inlanes and the lightening flippers.[quoted image]

Sweet...looks great. Easy mod when I can just connect to GI under the upper PF. I'll probably do that when I add a trough light.

Quoted from 85vett:

Also, for you new owners. An oldie but goodie CHEAP mod that makes a huge difference. I can't take credit for it and I don't recall the first to do it but take some copper wire, gold paint and some black heat shrink to your sword.
You paint the handle gold (you can barely see where it stops right above the pivot joint in the picture). Then black heat shirk at the grip covered by some wound wire.
My camera kind of sucks but hopefully you get the idea. Really makes it look more realistic.[quoted image]

Oh I see what you are saying. You only paint the handle gold. Yeah that pic makes it look like the entire sword is painted gold (including blade) but yeah I see where it stops there at the bottom of the blade. Should be easy to take it off, spraypaint gold, and heat shrink. I just need to get some copper wire.

#1783 3 years ago

Grabbed a better pic at lunch today.

3 (resized).jpg3 (resized).jpg
#1784 3 years ago
Quoted from Antron77:

Thanks! Just bought both.

Make sure you order the premium sets for your game.

#1785 3 years ago
Quoted from 85vett:

Grabbed a better pic at lunch today.[quoted image]

Yeah, that looks good. OK, I'll get that done here soon too (I have quite a list though for initial upgrades).

And...I had another productive quarantine day yesterday. Another PF teardown! Nothing better than doing one PF teardown and then doing it again the next day. I should have done my research on fixes before the first teardown.

1. First, I added washers to the back of the elevator since I did see the 4 screws were protruding into the shaft.

2. Added a lock nut to the throne. Not sure if it was initially there or not, but with it there, I am able to raise/lower the playfield without it flopping around if I had already undone the long screws from under the PF.

nut (resized).pngnut (resized).png

3. I cleaned the upper PF flippers. Yeah, putting the PF on its side was fine, though I do worry some day I might break a wall plastic.

4. Question: When taking the ramps off, are you all just unscrewing the optic sensors each time? Other pins I can disconnect to the sensors from under the PF and feed them back through but with these, the designers really don't want you to do that since there are plastics everwhere making it near impossible to feed the wiring through each time.

20200422_151601 (resized).jpg20200422_151601 (resized).jpg

5. Left orbit fix.
a. First I added washers to the screws on the shield plastic below the Upper PF since they are protruding into the orbit, hitting the ball.
b. I added coil sleeves with heat shrink to the pop bumper inlanes.
c. Took off the diverter. Now here,.....it was super easy to enlarge the holes with a 3/16" drill bit. But that did nothing for me. When reinstalling the diverter, I couldn't push it up the PF at all. So, I marked with a permanent marker the direction I needed to elongate the holes, then took a Dremel with a grinding bit to do elongate it. I was fortunately able to push the diverter up all the way till the bushing hit the PF.

Seems to work...though I need more time to see what success percentage a good hit up the orbit is.

20200422_170341 (resized).jpg20200422_170341 (resized).jpg

6. I'm getting auto plunge problems where a plunge isn't making it all the way into the pops. I adjusted the rail on the left side of the right orbit and it seems to have helped but I think I'm still at like 80%.

I'm surprised that there are no menu adjustments to control auto plunger power or even flipper power?

Anyway, another long day at work on this pin!

#1786 3 years ago

For the ramp Opto's. I unplug them from the board under the PF and fish them though. It's a bit of a song and dance getting them back through but much easier in the long run.

Do you know where it is rattling on the launch? I'm guessing the control gate on the right side may be getting in the way. It shouldn't need much power at all to get to the throne shot or pops. Take a video if you can as that may help us help you. But also make sure the forks on the auto shooter are even and touching the ball at rest. If not, it could be shooting it at an angle, which unfortunately, is extremely common on Stern's newer games.

#1787 3 years ago
Quoted from 85vett:

For the ramp Opto's. I unplug them from the board under the PF and fish them though. It's a bit of a song and dance getting them back through but much easier in the long run.
Do you know where it is rattling on the launch? I'm guessing the control gate on the right side may be getting in the way. It shouldn't need much power at all to get to the throne shot or pops. Take a video if you can as that may help us help you. But also make sure the forks on the auto shooter are even and touching the ball at rest. If not, it could be shooting it at an angle, which unfortunately, is extremely common on Stern's newer games.

Yeah, I looked at the autoplunger prongs to make sure both were in contact all the way through the movement and they area (I had a NIB IMDN that had much larger autolaunch problems...like most every IMDN). I went to take a slow-mo video on trough clear mode and of course like 100% no problems for like 30 launches. Go and play the game and it happens a couple of times. The control gate isn't an issue....its getting stuck right before the right orbit success switch. Its almost like occasionally it might be getting stuck just right in between the rail and the switch wire, getting kind of sandwiched and pinned there. Hmm, maybe I'll adjust the rail and the wireform so there is a smaller gap.

And....I'm very surprised you can even fish the opto wires through the PF. Like...you are fishing the wire for the right ramp opto through all of this? ->

20200423_162555 (resized).jpg20200423_162555 (resized).jpg

20200423_162427 (resized).jpg20200423_162427 (resized).jpg

That is a vertical plastic shield, then a slit through a large horizontal plastic, which also has a rubber ring, and then a small hole in the PF to all get around..holy cow! Left ramp is hardly better on its first opto ->

20200423_162457 (resized).jpg20200423_162457 (resized).jpg

#1788 3 years ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Question: When taking the ramps off, are you all just unscrewing the optic sensors each time? Other pins I can disconnect to the sensors from under the PF and feed them back through but with these, the designers really don't want you to do that since there are plastics everwhere making it near impossible to feed the wiring through each time.

Its a pain but reroute your wires so it looks cleaner and cant vibe seen from the ramp, I hate that Stern does not already do this, see example on how mine is done, it looks even cleaner now with additional mini zip ties. I would post recent pics but am not home at the moment.

IMG_2682 (resized).JPGIMG_2682 (resized).JPGIMG_2684 (resized).JPGIMG_2684 (resized).JPG
#1789 3 years ago
Quoted from capguntrooper:

Its a pain but reroute your wires so it looks cleaner and cant vibe seen from the ramp, I hate that Stern does not already do this, see example on how mine is done, it looks even cleaner now with additional mini zip ties. I would post recent pics but am not home at the moment.[quoted image][quoted image]

Yeah I saw your video on rerouting the wires so they don't show under the ramps. Its definitely a cleaner look. And since you are ziptieing as well, I assume for sure you are just unscrewing the optos from the ramps when you need to remove the ramps?

#1790 3 years ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Yeah, I looked at the autoplunger prongs to make sure both were in contact all the way through the movement and they area (I had a NIB IMDN that had much larger autolaunch problems...like most every IMDN). I went to take a slow-mo video on trough clear mode and of course like 100% no problems for like 30 launches. Go and play the game and it happens a couple of times. The control gate isn't an issue....its getting stuck right before the right orbit success switch. Its almost like occasionally it might be getting stuck just right in between the rail and the switch wire, getting kind of sandwiched and pinned there. Hmm, maybe I'll adjust the rail and the wireform so there is a smaller gap.
And....I'm very surprised you can even fish the opto wires through the PF. Like...you are fishing the wire for the right ramp opto through all of this? ->
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
That is a vertical plastic shield, then a slit through a large horizontal plastic, which also has a rubber ring, and then a small hole in the PF to all get around..holy cow! Left ramp is hardly better on its first opto ->
[quoted image]

Yes. Take the plastic off just below the right of the left ramp that goes straight up. It's just one screw and has to come out to get the ramp out easily anyway. They can be fiddly but that is how I do it.

#1791 3 years ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Yeah I saw your video on rerouting the wires so they don't show under the ramps. Its definitely a cleaner look. And since you are ziptieing as well, as assume for sure you are just unscrewing the optos from the ramps when you need to remove the ramps?

correct, I just let dangle if I need to get under there.

#1792 3 years ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

6. I'm getting auto plunge problems where a plunge isn't making it all the way into the pops. I adjusted the rail on the left side of the right orbit and it seems to have helped but I think I'm still at like 80%.

FYI, my game seems to do this a lot right after a good cleaning. After playing some games and some of the speed settles down, it seems to correct itself to near 100%.

#1793 3 years ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

6. I'm getting auto plunge problems where a plunge isn't making it all the way into the pops. I adjusted the rail on the left side of the right orbit and it seems to have helped but I think I'm still at like 80%.
I'm surprised that there are no menu adjustments to control auto plunger power or even flipper power?

Mine had similar problems. I took my phone and made some high-fps vid to get to this (vid is here: https://next.l01.eu/index.php/s/YK4K5Wn82ycw92E). Turned out that the ball and kicker were off a little. So the ball was only initially being hit by one of the two "spikes" and once the second spike it it began wobbling around in the shooter lane grove. Carefully bending the kicker bracket till it sat flush on both sides of the ball did the trick for me.

#1794 3 years ago

Ok, went ahead and added the gold to the sword lock. Until I get some thicker gauge copper wire (which will look better), I just twisted 4 strands of much thinner gauge wire.

20200424_114737 (resized).jpg20200424_114737 (resized).jpg

Also....when I was cleaning the upper PF flippers, I noticed that they did not have EOS switches. Are end of stroke switches not needed because it uses weaker coils up there? I'm still surprised there are no flipper power options in the menu. Is that true with all Spike 1 games?

#1795 3 years ago

Modern games use EOS differently and will actually perform well even when the EOS is broken. Many upper flippers don't have EOS. For example, the 3rd flipper on Tron. The MPU automatically switches to low power after so many milliseconds after the high power is applied.

#1796 3 years ago

Hi all,

I need a new pinball... what do you prefer between Got and WD ?

Why GOT is so bad rated in the pinside rank ?

Thanks for your help.

Yan.

#1797 3 years ago
Quoted from Yfichelle:

Why GOT is so bad rated in the pinside rank ?

The artwork.

Walking dead barely edges out GOT for me.

Walking dead is a lot harder. So if you want more of a challenge go with TWD.

#1798 3 years ago
Quoted from Antron77:

Do you have a link to the sticker for the sword lock plate? Spinner sticker?

It is not so complicated to make them. Printing, laminating front, carpet tape backside, black edding on the small sides one round. Done.

#1799 3 years ago

Is there a known issue with balls immediately falling out of the Iron Throne? Sometimes I will get a streak where the ball will fall into the throne but immediately falls out. Its not getting hit by the plunger I don't think.

From above it looks like the plastic throne is not centered over the metal ...is there an adjustment for that?

20200426_155702 (resized).jpg20200426_155702 (resized).jpg

#1800 3 years ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Is there a known issue with balls immediately falling out of the Iron Throne? Sometimes I will get a streak where the ball will fall into the throne but immediately falls out. Its not getting hit by the plunger I don't think.
From above it looks like the plastic throne is not centered over the metal ...is there an adjustment for that?
[quoted image]

Try to lower the ramp as close as you can to the throne. When I first got my game, the ball would constantly fall out. Then lowering it as much as I could, it hasn’t fallen out once. There’s 2 screws/bolts that hold it in place.

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