I got Ron's set of plastics. If anyone needs any PM me

Question for those with the topper intact:

What size screws are used to hold it onto the 4 brackets? I found the brackets on Marco, but I need some specifics on the fasteners. Thanks if you can help!

What part number is the brackets...I need them too

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/535-6072-00

It pretty much HAS to be those, or I'm a Chinese jet pilot.

Wait, what? What is Bullwinkle's Treasure? Never done that.

You complete all pie colors while in Tri-ball, which gives 100 million on the right jackpot ramp at a 15 second timer. There are detailed rules in the last post of this thread:

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fractured-pinball-rules-rocky-and-bullwinkle-re-re-re-visited/page/2

On another note, while installing the new plastics in my machine, I worked out a mod to prevent the star posts behind the SAVED targets from rubbing paint off the plastic floor plate. What I did was use a hobby saw and remove the top "nubs" off the three star posts. Then I sanded the tops smooth and reinstalled them. Presto! They no longer push on the floor plate! Here's a pic of a star post and the nub that should be removed (ignore color):

starpostmod.jpg

Nice find Firebrand. I'm hoping to replace that plastic on my R&B so i'll be sure to do this mod before fitting the new one.

So I got the topper brackets in from marco today and found out that not even 6-32 SEMS screws will fit the holes. I'm going to order some smaller sizes to see which ones will fit. I've also just won a NOS topper on ebay for $60 so that will take care of everything but the fasteners. Once again, if anyone has the topper intact on their machine, I'd appreciate any tips you can give on the type and size of fastener. Thanks!

I had to drill the holes out larger in my topper

After doing some googling, I found vague reference that they might actually have been riveted on originally. At any rate, I've ordered some 4-40 SEMS screws at 3/8 inch and some lock-nuts for them which should fit the brackets just fine. I guess I'll find out one way or another if I have to enlarge the holes in the topper when it arrives.

I have a project R&B with the following problem: The speaker/DMD display panel brackets are broken. When I say brackets, I'm talking about the angled plastic pieces that stick out from the back of the panel and hook over the wooden slats in the backbox. These brackets seem to each be screwed on with two screws per bracket. Does anyone know if these are a readily available part or can sell me good used replacements?
Thanks,
Dan

Wow! I love the lighting effect on the topper!

Did you just "hack" into the wiring harness? Or, did you use a PIG][? Or something else?

Can you provide details and behind the scenes pics?

Finished shopping mine this weekend and it is a huge improvement!

Still got one issue and it's with the 5 drop bank. Is there supposed to be a spring on the coil plunger? Can't find a drawing of the assembly in the manual

Thanks for the pics Russ.

So here's the problem with mine. It didn't have a spring and when the bar would lift the drops, the bar wouldn't fall fully just from gravity. So the targets would have to push it down and they sometimes wouldn't fall all the way.

I added a spring to the plunger like in that 3rd pic and it now drops, but now when the coil is energized it seems to have a tough time lifting the targets.

Since you confirmed no spring I'm going to remove it and try a little oil on the pivot points

Also does anyone have the part number for the leaf switches in the assembly?

I didn't notice really. I will check it out

I got my NOS topper in the mail, and my size-matching for screws worked perfectly with the brackets for attaching the topper to them. First the brackets again:

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/535-6072-00

The screws that work for attaching the topper to them:

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4004-01003-06

And the locknuts:

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4404-01119-00

Now all I need to do is source a correctly fitting sheet metal screw for the base of the bracket that secures the topper to the backbox. I'm guessing something simple like a #6 hex since the hole is larger in the base of the bracket, but I'll find out to make sure and report back.

Got the assortment of screws in from Marco. The #6 Hex Sheet Metal Screw at 1/2 inch long ended up being the perfect fit for securing the brackets to the top of the backbox. The antlers are now installed on my machine after having been missing for who knows how many years. They look great!

So here is the link for the hex screws:

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4106-01088-08

The bumper caps from Ron Kruzman arrived today. After scanning them in as well as my originals, I noticed they are not the same drawings. If you look closely, you can tell they are different. Since I know my sun-bleached versions are factory original, I'm wondering if at some point somebody had replaced Ron's with a redrawn sticker kit. It's no big deal really, but it is interesting.

In other news, while I did find the rubber securing cord stashed in the cash box, I have determined that someone at some point had replaced the bottom cabinet board. Not only is there no spot on the board where an eye-hook screw used to be, but the board itself has no blue paint debris on it from when the cabinet got sprayed at the factory. This also supports all the other evidence I've found that this machine survived a flood at some point. For example, the transformer and the cabinet knocker are both covered in rust far beyond just from humid air.

Lastly, I got around to taking the wire gates apart and putting all the hardware into an acid bath (diluted with detergents and other ingredients). 20 years of corrosion melted off and left nice shiny new-looking hardware in a matter of a few minutes. I was glad to get this done as I had been putting it off for too long due to it being a major chore to strip out all those ramps and hardware.

So what's left for me to replace down the road for the playfield area is a new pie display (the white plastic on mine has a slightly brownish tinge to it from years of use), and of course getting a NOS playfield board itself to clear-coat and install. Then it's just find the holy grail of a pristine backglass and then rebuild the cabinet.

bombstickeralt.jpg
bombstickeroriginal.jpg

Every time I play this game, I'm amazed at how good it is, and how little attention it receives. 518 million this morning.

Anyone made custom instruction/coin cards? I was thinking of making some if there aren't some already done that I like. I don't really like the the ones on pinballrebel

Thanks! To be sure, this will be the first and last time I do a pinball machine this way. Next machine, I'll have infinitely more knowledge on what to look for when buying a machine as well as how much to pay. I will say though that I recently came across a professional restoration site where the guy restored an R&B machine from top to bottom for something like $5,000 +, and I was tickled to see his plastics and decals were sun-bleached. With the swap of those bumper caps, now all my decals are vibrant and new looking, and of course the complete NOS plastics to boot.

Here's the (hopefully refreshed) current shop log:

http://www.firebrandx.com/downloads/pinballrestorationproject.png

I'm going to bite the bullet and save up for the $500 NOS playfield and get it clear-coated. I might as well go the full 9 at this point.

Oh by the way, I just ordered a full set of new 3D targets too! Pinball Center in Germany has them (and is the ONLY site that does). They are the same company that makes the finest LEDs money can buy by the name of Noflix Plus.

New targets arrived and installed! They are beautiful compared to my crusty old originals, but there was a small issue: The targets are about 1mm wider than the originals. This made them too large to slip through the playfield holes, so I had to feed them through the top and reassemble the switch stacks from underneath. It was a little challenging, but nothing the right kind of tools couldn't handle. Here's a pic of the new targets up and running:

pinballbombtargets.jpg

Nice find And great work as always.

With regards the targets was it the ones named 'Standup Target 3D [color], small'?

Blue for example:

http://www.pinballcenter.eu/catalog/target-blue-small-p-3117.html?language=english

I finally got my Aesop VUK rebuilt tonight. The old ball cup had a broken tab and sometimes the ball would not center or would not register. The aftermarket ball cup had an O.D. that was too large for the clamp and I had to have a friend turn it down on a lathe. Anyway, the ball is now registering appropriately. However, I was also hoping this would also fix the occasional problem with the ball launching over the metal ball guide and plastic into the left outlane (maybe once every 30 or 40 times). I replaced all the parts that came in the rebuild kit and made sure the coil was tight in the bracket. The only thing I didn't replace other than the coil and brackets was the coil sleeve (I thought I had a spare of the correct size, but it wasn't).

I noticed that the R&B at the Pinball Hall of Fame in Vegas has an (aftermarket) guard to prevent this problem. The problem with this solution is the ball can get stuck between the guard and the left (green) wire ramp (I'll see if I can find a picture).

Does anyone else have this problem of the Aesop VUK sometimes launching into the left outlane? Does anyone have a fix for this?

Thanks,
Jon

Never once has my Aesop VUK done anything like that. The only way this would be even possible is if the overhead bracket deflector is bent upward, allowing the ball to be thrown upward at a higher angle. The part is easily replaced though:

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/535-5380-00

And proper coil to use:

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/090-5001-00

Thanks for the fast response and the excellent links! I'll definitely get a new deflector. That coil is the only one on my playfield that doesn't have a DE part number so it was obviously replaced at some point. In fact, it has a plain paper label without any printing at all so there is a good chance it is the wrong coil. Time for another order from Marco.

On an unrelated note, I replaced and tightened a few screws while I had the playfield up checking the coil. I can't see how it's related, but now it appears my left/right relay for the coils/flashers is out (the coils fire during the flasher test). It's always something I guess. Unfortunately, it's time to head to work so troubleshooting that issue will have to wait.

Update: I determined that only the 50V coils that weren't L/R switched were working and the 32 VDC was out. The 8A slow blow that feeds BR2 (which converts 25 VAC to 32 VDC) had blown. I replaced that fuse and now the non-L/R 32VDC coils are now also working, but none of the coils/flashers fed through the L/R relay are working. I figured this relay would normally fail in either the L or R position so I'm surprised that neither side is working. It looks like only the R (flasher) output of the relay is fused and that fuse checks good, so I'm guessing I must have shorted a coil on the L side which somehow failed open on both sides.

Update 2: I got it working and it is a little embarrassing. A previous owner had removed the knocker and just cut the wires. One of the wires came into contact with a ground braid and shorted out 32 VDC. Prior to finding this, I replaced the 8A fuse feeding BR2 and this caused the 32 VDC fuse on the Power Supply board to blow (probably a coin flip as to which one blew first). This is why the 32V "special" coils started working after replacing the 8A fuse feeding BR2. This is when I took another look and found the short. It looks like I'm just out the cost of a few fuses (and maybe a damaged fuse clip, but it seems to be working so far). Live and learn.

PM me if anyone needs any of these R&B plastics
http://s151.photobucket.com/user/nitrozoom/media/pinball/Rocky%20and%20Bullwinkle/IMG_20140219_230135886-2185_zpsb7ed128b.jpg.html?sort=2&o=1

Things are slowing down on my restoration project. There's only one thing left I could buy for the playfield area, and that's the pie display Marco has. Mine has slight yellowing of the plastic, but I'm not sure that's worth forking out $120 to Marco for a new one.

Other than that, I'm down to big-ticket items and having parts sent off to be sand-blasted and repainted. Here's the current shop log thus far:

http://www.firebrandx.com/downloads/pinballrestorationproject.png

Marco shocked me today when I checked their stock and low & behold they have the decal set back in stock!

It seems almost too good to be true, so I ordered a set. If it looks kosher when it arrives in the mail, I'll post pics.

Got the stickers in the mail. While not original stock, they are very well-made acrylic decals. Definitely worth it if you need new hat trick and bomb decals. Also worth it if you are looking to get a new apron and need to apply the correct purple 2-way level for it.

Does anyone have a solution for replacing the hat trick target decals? Scans, good quality photos or a good substitute?

Apologies if I've missed one of the responses, but does anyone also have a link to the square yellow targets for these also?

Cheers!
Adam.

A good substitute is the decal set offered on Marco, but they are repros. I got a set as you can see from my older post above.

Still looking for the 3D yellow (square) targets that go under the hat trick decals. Does anyone have a link to these targets? The manual part number is a 3 target bank instead of the individual target. Closest I've found is a yellow 3D square target for Star Wars DE and Pinball Spare Parts Australia has 3 different parts codes for the Williams version. Not sure if any of these will do the job?

Cheers!
Adam.

They are no longer manufactured. However, there is a used set on ebay. Edit: Seems the seller ended the auction. That's a shame because it had been up there for like two months!

I know it's been a while, but if you're still looking Marco now appears to have all four colors in stock (here's the yellow):
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/515-5930-06

They look to be the ones that are 1mm too wide to fit through the bottom, just judging by the distance from the rivet to the edge of the plastic. You can see the difference by looking at the out of stock red one still listed on their site and comparing it to the new in stock red one.

So these new ones will do the trick, but you have to feed them through the top of the playfield since they won't fit the board holes.