(Topic ID: 185171)

Fine tuning

By Terry1

7 years ago


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  • 43 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by Terry1
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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    Replay reset relay (resized).JPG
    Anti cheat relay (resized).JPG
    Loose wire (resized).JPG
    Broken wire (resized).JPG
    S I card (resized).JPG
    Bikini pinouts (resized).jpg
    8th ball contact (resized).JPG
    contact before 8th ball (resized).JPG
    ScreenHunter_04 Mar. 30 19.20 (resized).jpg
    Bally balls (resized).JPG
    Bally ball 2 (resized).JPG

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    #1 7 years ago

    Now that my Bikini is working, I am wondering just how well it is working!
    Other than my Bikini, I have not played a bingo machine since '64. I have a couple
    operational questions.
    When I start a game, with a nickle, sometimes the first ball comes up to be played;
    but sometimes I have to push the button below the plunger to get a ball in play.
    Is this normal. I noticed that, most often when I start a game from "replays", the ball
    will come up on it's own.
    Is it common, or can it happen, that the odds increase during a game. This has happened
    on occasion.
    I also noticed, when I was clicking off a few "replays", the odds went up a couple and then
    went back down. How about that!!!
    All in all, I'm having a ball with this bingo. Just thought I would do a little inquiring.

    #3 7 years ago

    Thanks Nick for the input!
    I will open up the play field, again, and burnish the trough contacts
    as well as ol' rusty's contacts!
    I noticed in the play instructions(paper on the play field),
    "Press red button and deposit coin to start a game".
    The Red button does not seem to activate any thing.
    Also what does the button underneath the plunger do?

    #4 7 years ago

    Before doing anything I am noticing that the ball lifter is ALWAYS trying to lift the ball
    into play. It will accomplish this about 50% of the time.
    Going to look around the lifter mech.

    #6 7 years ago

    Guess what I found. See picture.
    It seems the weight of the other balls is not allowing the object ball
    to sit down and close the set of contacts.
    I thought I had my orig 8th ball problem. But no!
    This happens about 50% of the time.
    A slight jarring of the whole machine will move things along!!
    Disregard the second picture, I don't know how the get rid of
    it once I attach it.

    Bally ball 2 (resized).JPGBally ball 2 (resized).JPG

    Bally balls (resized).JPGBally balls (resized).JPG

    #7 7 years ago

    I ment disregard the first picture!!

    #10 7 years ago

    The write up says all trough contacts are open with no ball on them.
    I assume they do not mean the two sets of DPDT switches!
    I took a picture of my 8th ball contacts and the set of contacts just before them.
    Notice the actuator for the set of contacts before the 8th ball ones!
    This actuator is actually between the contacts; no other set of trough contacts has
    the actuator between the contacts;unless this set of contacts has to be closed
    with no ball!!!
    When all the balls are in the trough + one ball in the lift, the lift ball is lower than the trough
    balls, if this is what you meant.
    When the lift ball gets to the proper place it always actuates the lift switch.
    I will do more exploration tomorrow.
    It my come down to the lift not pushing the ball out, and when it returns, it get hung up; I
    can simulate this manually.

    contact before 8th ball (resized).JPGcontact before 8th ball (resized).JPG

    8th ball contact (resized).JPG8th ball contact (resized).JPG

    #13 6 years ago

    Yes "baldwit"(there has to be a better name that I could call you) you have something there.
    My stacking ball "trick", I believe, was form my play field on the wrong position. The lifter could not
    get the ball out to the play position, thus the stacking.
    Now , 85% of the time, when I start a game, the machine will start to buzz, I open the
    play field and see that the lift did not get to the bottom to allow the next ball to operate
    the plunger and the set of contacts below it!!! If I open up the play field and take some
    pressure off of the seven balls pushing against the lift arm, away ever thing goes!!
    It makes sence that this only happens during a new game, first ball.
    I'm not sure if the lift arm is bent because of my stacking trick or not.
    If so, there does not seem to be an adjustment for this other than brute force.
    I don't believe grease is used in the ball side of the lift arm.
    BTW. I could not find any info on the pinouts of the jones plugs!
    So I started with the bingo numbers and there associated pins, may help someone with
    continuity checks. If this has already been done, I've learned something(I'm not done yet),
    if not, I can post it.

    #15 6 years ago

    Yes "okorange", but it does not tell you what pins are associated with what contacts; with out
    going to the schematics, which I have done.
    Also, the 8th ball pins are handy to know.

    #17 6 years ago

    Here you go. Excuse the artistry!!!
    BTW, it appears that a lot of games seem to have common pinouts for lights,
    trough switches, etc!!!

    Bikini pinouts (resized).jpgBikini pinouts (resized).jpg

    #20 6 years ago

    Well,twit, this is what happened!
    I took apart the lift mech, as much as I dared;
    I analysed the s--- out of it;
    realized I did not know what I was doing;
    cleaned up what I could;
    put all back together;
    and away it goes!!!!!
    BTW, when I got that loud buzzing, it was coming from the head!

    #23 6 years ago

    I was comparing the player instruction cards(S/I cards I guess) on my
    Bikini compared to what I am seeing on line on other Bikini's; I posted a picture
    of my cards. Can any one tell me if my cards are original or not ???

    S I card (resized).JPGS I card (resized).JPG

    #25 6 years ago

    Back in my original trouble shooting of my machine I found a wire disconnected.
    I was able to trace it to Jones Plug # 1 pin 93-7.
    I can not find that pin(wire) on my schematic. If any one knows of this wire's
    function would you mind letting me know in what area of the schematic you found it!!
    BTW, thank you Dennis Dodel for interest and help!!!!

    #27 6 years ago

    Good eyes 'okorange".I missed it.I must have gone by that spot at least 10 times!!
    Some day I am going to come up with a pinout/contact location for every Jones
    plug pin!!!
    Thanks again "okorange"!

    #29 6 years ago

    I see the replay reset relay.It has wires on all contacts.
    After looking at the game manual I can't figure out the contact
    layout.
    I did find the start relay!
    I noticed a wire off the anti cheat relay.
    I saw a wire off(appears cut) the "replays" counter.
    I seems to be the loose wire I have. All though the loose wire does not reach
    the counter.
    See pictures.
    Some times, it appears, best to leave well enough alone.

    Broken wire (resized).JPGBroken wire (resized).JPG

    Loose wire (resized).JPGLoose wire (resized).JPG

    Anti cheat relay (resized).JPGAnti cheat relay (resized).JPG

    Replay reset relay (resized).JPGReplay reset relay (resized).JPG

    #31 6 years ago

    About tilting the front of the head down.
    Is there anything I should be mind full of, other than probably
    not doing it!!

    #33 6 years ago

    Just when I thought things were good, the CU no longer turns
    when the bingo is first turned on. I did not tilt down the front.
    The mixer & spotting unit motor turns!
    If I put in a coin, the Mixer #2 relay continuously chatters.
    This started all of a sudden!!!!

    #35 6 years ago

    The timer unit step & reset coils do not engage.
    Mixer # 4 relay coil engages.
    For some reason the red button relay engages.
    Not sure what you mean buy the 8th step timer switch!
    By the timer , do you mean the timer disc with the step & reset coils?

    #37 6 years ago

    Are either solenoid on the timer unit supposed to engage
    when you turn on the pin?

    #38 6 years ago

    An observation!
    Just out of curiosity I measured the voltage on the Mixer & Spotting unit motor = 120VAC, as
    I would expect since it is running.
    I measured the voltage on the CU motor, which is my issue since it is not turning, = 120VAC!
    I did not expect to see 120AC on the CU motor; I believed that this voltage is switched some how!
    Either I am wrong on how this CU motor is supplied it's voltage, or something is stopping it
    from turning, OR, the motor just gave up, OR, I really don't know!!

    #39 6 years ago

    After a closer look at the schematic it seems that I may have a motor issue.
    In order for me to get 120VAC on my CU motor I need:
    Open at 8th timer unit switch closed & Tilt trip switch closed
    OR
    Timer cam index switch closed
    OR
    Appropriate Replay reset relay contact closed
    One of the above things has to be happening to get 120VAC at my motor!

    #41 6 years ago

    Working Spotting motor = 12.5 Ohms
    Not working CU motor = 8.9 Ohms
    Both motors are the same.
    Both motors disconnected on one side to eliminate
    parallel resistances!
    Is there a post on replacing a CU motor or instructions
    else where ??
    BTW, on my Pin out for the bingo lights, continuity is spelled wrong
    as well as continuity is to the 17V line!!!

    #43 6 years ago

    If it's OK I would like to start a new post on my CU motor
    experience(s)!

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