Oakland, NE
Sometime in 1972 I believe.
(Topic ID: 63100)
Linked Games
Gulfstream
Williams, 1973
Topic Gallery
I did sand the coil wire prior to soldering. (Per Clay's guide) Also per Clay's guide Williams started running some pop bumpers and other components off of DC around '73. Told you I read the guide 
So to clarify, with the leaf switch closed. The right flipper only buzzes when the button is pressed. (no movement). I wonder if I have a wire switched around on the coil posts?
I'm planning getting rebuild kits for both flippers, but if there's more parts I need to order, I would like to get it done all at once.
Quoted from Pafasa:I thought I'd be more help on this one, but every time I type up a solution to your wiring, I talk myself out of it. (sorry) The schematic shows the wires to be Red and Black-white but you also have some white wires in there. I'd like to see a better pic of your flipper coil wiring for both the left and right flippers.
Pafasa, I can post a some more pics when I get home tonight. There's also another thing you can help me with. I have two coils in the cabinet that don't look so healthy. There the two closest to the coin door in the long line of coils that runs the length of the cabinet. Can you tell me what size you have in yours? Mine has a white label running down that row, but the numbers don't appear to match to size of the installed coils. I'm not sure if there supposed to or not.
Quoted from Pafasa:I thought I'd be more help on this one, but every time I type up a solution to your wiring, I talk myself out of it. (sorry) The schematic shows the wires to be Red and Black-white but you also have some white wires in there. I'd like to see a better pic of your flipper coil wiring for both the left and right flippers.
Pafasa, I can post a some more pics when I get home tonight. There's also another thing you can help me with. I have two coils in the cabinet that don't look so healthy. There the two closest to the coin door in the long line of coils that runs the length of the cabinet. Can you tell me what size you have in yours? Mine has a white label running down that row, but the numbers don't appear to match to size of the installed coils. I'm not sure if there supposed to or not. a.jpg
I don't own this game. Do you have the Game Manual? It will tell you what the coils are for those relays. BUT Personally, I would use the info printed on the labels below the relay switches. I can't make them out but I bet you can with a flashlight and the right angle. I would contact www.pbresource.com for those coils. The Lock relay looks pretty gone. I bet the Ball Index relay coil is a bit fried due to the fact that it is the wrong one.
You could also use the Pinside Community to look up owners of this game and send them a PM with this question or ask them to take a look at this thread. Two owners who come to mind right now are skybug and em-pinman.
Next point based on your pic.....
Your lock relay switches look questionable to me, specifically the center switch. From left to right as you look at the photo, the switches should be CLOSED, CLOSED, OPEN, OPEN, OPEN. This is the rest (not energized) state for that lock relay. Each switch should change state when the relay energizes. It may be the angle of the photo, but it looks to me like the middle switch is closed when it should be open.
Quoted from Pafasa:http://Www.pbresource.com is where I would go first for stepper springs. Call and ask for Steve. Tell him what machine and what stepper units you want springs for. If you are certain they are as clean as possible and the springs still don't do the job, then replace them. Did you actually disassemble the stepper including the ratchet gear and shaft? Steve will likely ask you this too. You could shorten the springs, but if it were me, I'd at least know where to get a replacement from first.
Thanks for the pointer! Yes, I dismantled the steppers pretty completely - removed the disks with the contact fingers, removed the ratchet gear, cleaned the shaft and the bearing hole, removed the advance and reset levers, cleaned those shafts, very lightly lubricated everything with a teflon gel lube, and re-assembled. I put the minimum tension on the clock spring that would ensure that the stepper would reset, but the advance spring seems to be a bit too weak to actually advance.. Pardon any incorrect terminology here; I know what I'm referencing, but not quite sure as to the correct names!
Nice to have a name to call - I've had that site bookmarked, but didn't notice things like small springs. Not surprising, considering how much time it would take to put them all on a page!
Id get a new lock relay. I always notice when the top part is broken off that the coil had a hard life. It also will quiet down a bit if you get a new coil.
The ball index relay coil looks like its a Z28 -1000 and the label below says it should be a Z28 1150 so i woudl replace that also
--Jeff
I was just on PBR today and looked at his stepper spring kits. He has a few Williams kits listed on his site.
Quoted from Pafasa:I was just on PBR today and looked at his stepper spring kits. He has a few Williams kits listed on his site.
http://pbresource.com/springkit.html
those are the ones i ordered for the mc...
op, did you try the ones you have? remember when you test it manually, push the plunger in fast and hard, just like it would happen if the machine is doing it... if you do it slow and soft, it can give the impression of "not working"...
spring kits are cheap enough though... 
I grabbed a few more pics of the flipper coils. Pafasa I don't know if this helps or not but the newer wires (the white wires not cloth covered) go to to the switch. Then there are two red and one black that look original.
Does anyone have any ideas on why the right flipper wouldn't work with the EOS switch closed?
Quoted from Pafasa:Next point based on your pic.....
Your lock relay switches look questionable to me, specifically the center switch. From left to right as you look at the photo, the switches should be CLOSED, CLOSED, OPEN, OPEN, OPEN. This is the rest (not energized) state for that lock relay. Each switch should change state when the relay energizes. It may be the angle of the photo, but it looks to me like the middle switch is closed when it should be open.
Pafasa, could you also point me to where you found the correct switch position? I think mine is setup correctly as you described, but I would like to be able to know for future reference.
Quoted from Renegade:I came across this youtube video of a Gulfstream with an overlay.
» YouTube video
Any ideas on what kind of "overlay" their talking about? Mylar, clear coat, reproduction playfield?
We scanned the playfield of a GULFSTREAM to make the overlay installed in the machine showed in the video. But this was an exclusive job made for a customer.
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.422748891098579.96013.158963444143793&type=1
The overlay showed in the pictures was replaced because the texture of the wood of the background was too light.
Robert Urbanowicz
PINBALLMANIA LLC
Quoted from bigdaddy1:We scanned the playfield of a GULFSTREAM to make the overlay installed in the machine showed in the video. But this was an exclusive job made for a customer.
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.422748891098579.96013.158963444143793&type=1
The overlay showed in the pictures was replaced because the texture of the wood of the background was too light.
Robert Urbanowicz
PINBALLMANIA LLC
No chance you would share the file? Is it for sale? Very cool! I'd love to print it and hang it on my wall! Beautiful work!
Quoted from Renegade:Pafasa, could you also point me to where you found the correct switch position? I think mine is setup correctly as you described, but I would like to be able to know for future reference.
I know the correct switch position by looking at how they are manipulated by the plastic arm on the relay armature. Look at the long blade in each pair. Does it look like the armature should push it closer to its corresponding short blade? Or does it look like the armature should be pulling it away from the shorter blade? Your eyes can be your best EM diagnostic tool!
Hi Renegade! Great pin project.
I'm a bit late in the conversation, but if you wonder what the different types of EOS switches do then here are a couple explanations:
Flipper EOS:
EOS switches used in other parts of the machine such as score reels and some pop bumpers are different. Those are explained here:
http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/what-is-an-end-of-stroke-switch-find-out-cool-animation
Thanks for the vid Steve it helped me visualize this.
Looking closer at your pics and also the pic of the coil ccotenj put up, I think you have your coil wired backwards. It looks like the red wires need to move to the outside lug on the other side of the coil and the Black-white and white pair need to move where the red one is. Leave the single white wire on the center lug.
Quoted from Renegade:I grabbed a few more pics of the flipper coils. Pafasa I don't know if this helps or not but the newer wires (the white wires not cloth covered) go to to the switch. Then there are two red and one black that look original.
Does anyone have any ideas on why the right flipper wouldn't work with the EOS switch closed?
On the last pic, the switches are open and I believe they should be normally closed. When the flipper is activated, that little arm should open that switch. I'll take a photo of both my Gulfstream flipper coils and post them.
You're correct, those switches should be closed.
Quoted from sta98:I'll take a photo of both my Gulfstream flipper coils and post them.
That will be helpful. Renegade said he has the EOS open because when closed he gets a bad buzz all the time. You don't happen to have an operators manual for this title?
On the last pic, the switches are open and I believe they should be normally closed. When the flipper is activated, that little arm should open that switch. I'll take a photo of both my Gulfstream flipper coils and post them.
Here's a photo of both of my flipper coil.
IMG_20130924_170418_067-001.jpg IMG_20130924_170436_701-001.jpg
R2D2/Deathstar wins!
The first pic shows what I suspected. Reverse your outside lugs on the flipper with the Williams coil like I outlined above. Readjust your EOS switch to be closed tightly and only open at the very end of the flipper stroke. Then you should be in business.
Awesome guys! I'll switch those wires around and give it a go.
And just to clarify, with my current set up and EOS closed as it should be, the flipper would simply not move, just buzz. Hopefully switching these wires and closing the EOS should fix it.
Thanks for everyone's advice/help. I never would have taken on a project like this without a community to help or support!
Quoted from bigdaddy1:We scanned the playfield of a GULFSTREAM to make the overlay installed in the machine showed in the video. But this was an exclusive job made for a customer.
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.422748891098579.96013.158963444143793&type=1
The overlay showed in the pictures was replaced because the texture of the wood of the background was too light.
Robert Urbanowicz
PINBALLMANIA LLC
Thanks bigdaddy for the info. What was the overlay made out of? Are you guys willing to do anymore?
To be sure, look at the wires coming out of the flipper coil itself, which is soldered to the lugs. Look at the center lug. There should be a coil wire fatter than the other. Your outside lugs will have one coil wire one each. The lug on one side will have the fatter coil wire soldered to it and the other outside lug will have the thinner wire soldered to it.
The EOS should "short out" the thinner wired coil. The EOS switch should be wired on the center lug and onto the lug which has the thinner wire. (Someone please note if I have this wrong)
To add to Steve's explanation...
The red (power) wire should be soldered to the tab with the single thick coil wire and the black (common, ground) wire should be soldered to the tab with the single thin coil wire. One side of the EOS switch should be connected to the same tab as the black wire.
Quoted from SteveFury:To be sure, look at the wires coming out of the flipper coil itself, which is soldered to the lugs. Look at the center lug. There should be a coil wire fatter than the other. Your outside lugs will have one coil wire one each. The lug on one side will have the fatter coil wire soldered to it and the other outside lug will have the thinner wire soldered to it.
The EOS should "short out" the thinner wired coil. The EOS switch should be wired on the center lug and onto the lug which has the thinner wire. (Someone please note if I have this wrong)
Quoted from Pafasa:To add to Steve's explanation...
The red (power) wire should be soldered to the tab with the single thick coil wire and the black (common, ground) wire should be soldered to the tab with the single thin coil wire. One side of the EOS switch should be connected to the same tab as the black wire.
Ahh, ok. Thank you! I'll take a look when I get home from work and see if I can make sense of it.
Well I switched the wires around and now have two working flippers! Of course I have about 10 other issues to correct. A new one started just as I played my first test game. There's a loud buzzing that starts as soon as the first score is added in a game. I think it's coming from the lock coil. You can see from previous pics that it needs replacement. I'll get it swapped out and we'll see what happens.
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