(Topic ID: 150740)

Finally got my first pin, Stargate! Need a little help!

By mystman12

8 years ago


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  • 93 posts
  • 28 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 years ago by Hougie
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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There are 93 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
#51 8 years ago

I thought tempered glass was super easy to break from the sides though, or is that just on concrete and stuff? I've read the stories where people end up holding air with a pile of glass below them, so I'm always super nervous when I'm moving the glass!

#52 8 years ago

You've had a lot of issues with this since you purchased.

Did the seller tell you there was anything wrong with it?

#53 8 years ago

the game shutting off could be the coin door switch. As soon as the coin door is opened the game shuts off instantly. Look to see if the coin door switch mounting is loose. maybe it's coming out of the socket or wires are loose.

#54 8 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Not normal, but this will be tempered glass so your also not likely to break it. The most likely cause is the glass is getting hung up on the rear trim, you may be able to re position it to correct the problem.

I usually put some simple green in a small cup, soak q-tips in it, then run the q-tips along the inside of the channels. All sorts of gunk tends to accumulate in there over the years and it helps to get it out.

The other reason for hang-ups could be a damaged portion of the channel--maybe a chip or crack.

Otherwise, just make sure the glass is aligned and slide it in gently--it doesn't need to be forced.

Quoted from mystman12:

I thought tempered glass was super easy to break from the sides though, or is that just on concrete and stuff? I've read the stories where people end up holding air with a pile of glass below them, so I'm always super nervous when I'm moving the glass!

When setting aside the glass, I usually set the edge down on a folded towel (regular or microfiber) and lean it up against something. I've seen too many after photos shattered/exploded glass after being placed on a hard surface and being moved in some way. Note that this isn't a really that common of an occurrence--I just figure better safe than sorry and it gives me some peace of mind.

#55 8 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

You've had a lot of issues with this since you purchased.
Did the seller tell you there was anything wrong with it?

The seller said everything was working, but I'll give him the benefit of the doubt that he didn't realize the drop targets and left guard target were broken as they are minor features. Plus, I didn't do proper checking when I went to look at the game, I was too excited! I did see the glidercraft get stuck. Regardless, even if I had known of those issues, I would have still bought it. The other issues, the left ramp onto and the VUK, only started a while *after* I brought it home and playing it a lot.

Quoted from CaptainNeo:

the game shutting off could be the coin door switch. As soon as the coin door is opened the game shuts off instantly. Look to see if the coin door switch mounting is loose. maybe it's coming out of the socket or wires are loose.

Will do. Next time it happens (If it happens again) I'll try messing with the coin door and see if that does anything.

#56 8 years ago

just look in the coin door. I think the switch sticks through a square hole, and has tabs that snap into place to hold it there. IF it's not in all the way or a tab is broken is going to be all cockeyed and not work the way it should. Look at the wires on it too, make sure all are tight and on good.

#57 8 years ago

Yeah, it all looks okay to me. It's only happened once so far, so I don't think I need to look into much right now anyways.

So, my Dad and I attempted to resolder the solenoid, but no dice. First off, the connector marked SW23 is for the switch, correct? That's going off of the manual (In a matrix with the other switches), but I was curious if this cable might be the culprit. Also the fuse corresponding with the solenoid, according to the manual, is fuse 28, and looking at the fuses, I noticed the wire in the middle of fuse 28 looks crooked compared to the others:
image_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpeg

Is it possible I just have a defective fuse? I'd swap with another to see but I'm not sure how to get it out. (I don't have one of the special tools, but should a string wrapped around one end of the fuse and pulled suffice?)

#58 8 years ago
Quoted from mystman12:

s it possible I just have a defective fuse? I'd swap with another to see but I'm not sure how to get it out. (I don't have one of the special tools, but should a string wrapped around one end of the fuse and pulled suffice?)

Fuses are easy to pick up, auto-motive, home depot, etc. The fuse metal end will tell you what type of slow-blo fuse it is. A plastic butter knife works, or like you said pulling a string or something behind one end. After you pull the fuse test it with a multi-meter. If you dont have one, time to buy one as you will need it in this hobby. Sometimes a fuse will have small bubbles when it blows, other times it will blow without showing any evidence. You just need to pull them and test.

Home depot, ace or any hardware store sells these fuse pullers for about $8

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#59 8 years ago
Quoted from mystman12:

Yeah, it all looks okay to me. It's only happened once so far, so I don't think I need to look into much right now anyways.
So, my Dad and I attempted to resolder the solenoid, but no dice. First off, the connector marked SW23 is for the switch, correct? That's going off of the manual (In a matrix with the other switches), but I was curious if this cable might be the culprit. Also the fuse corresponding with the solenoid, according to the manual, is fuse 28, and looking at the fuses, I noticed the wire in the middle of fuse 28 looks crooked compared to the others:
image_(resized).jpeg
Is it possible I just have a defective fuse? I'd swap with another to see but I'm not sure how to get it out. (I don't have one of the special tools, but should a string wrapped around one end of the fuse and pulled suffice?)

When it comes to fuses they either work or they don't. If the solenoid isn't working at all the fuse may be bad. If its just flakey I would focus on the associated switch.

On the topic of fuse pullers I like the small yellow one that you can buy on Pinball Life or just use one of these. I use the hook all the time for pulling fuses.

Screenshot_2016-02-06-06-26-15_(resized).pngScreenshot_2016-02-06-06-26-15_(resized).png

#61 8 years ago

So I checked the fuse, it's fine. My dad gave me his meter so I can check stuff now. How can I check to make sure the soldering job is good and if everything is connected properly?

Also, just want to make sure, the SW23 connector is for the switch, and not the solenoid, right? I was wondering if I could try swapping another one of the SW connectors and see if it functioned, if they do control the solenoids.

#62 8 years ago

Is the seller a pinsider?

#63 8 years ago

Yep, the seller was Pinsider tnitty. Great guy to work with. He lifted the playfield, removed the back glass, let me look at everything, and helped my dad and I get it up from his basement too!

I checked the audits, and it turns out this machine has 14,554 plays on it! Wish I knew for sure what this game's history was. Is that a normal amount of plays for a game this old?

#64 8 years ago

yup, actually the plays are low. games from 95 and stuff, usually have 30k +.

#65 8 years ago

Hey, how do I slide the playfield out? I can see it has the props and grooves for it, but I can't seem to be able to pull it/lift it enough to get it to move towards me.

#66 8 years ago
Quoted from mystman12:

Hey, how do I slide the playfield out? I can see it has the props and grooves for it, but I can't seem to be able to pull it/lift it enough to get it to move towards me.

You can pull it toward you at about 45 degrees if I remember correctly. A healthy pull should get it done.

#67 8 years ago

I don't remember stargate pulling out. I think it's swivel only. lift it up and look how it's hinged.

#68 8 years ago

I wonder if tnitty can come on this thread and help. He'd be familiar with these issues perhaps.

#69 8 years ago

NVM, the playfield does pull out. Just lift it up. Pull forward. there are 2 brackets to set the field down on the front edge of the machine. Lift it until you can put those on the front. Then lift all the way up.

#70 8 years ago

Got the right guard VUK fixed!

I noticed another small issue though. My left flipper is sparking fairly often at the switch. (The flipper itself, not the button) Here's a video:

Is this safe? And how should I go about fixing it?

Anyways, I got the drop target assembly out. (Thank goodness this uses connectors instead of having to desolder it!) Everything looks fine. The switches are clearly making contact when the targets drop.
image_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpeg

Should I try reheating the blue wire? That seems to be the one that gives both switches power, and since both of the switches are broken I'd assume that would be the problem.

Edit: Well, this is strange... I took my multimeter and am making connections at all the solder joints and the switch plates, one end of the multimeter in the connector and the other on the solder joints/switch plates...

#71 8 years ago

HOLD UP! I decided to look at the switch matrix in the manual (I think it's the switch matrix anyways. ) even though I don't really know what I'm looking at... But it looks like the drop targets and the left pivot target are all part of the same return!
image_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpeg

The right kicking target, however, works fine. So does that mean there's a break somewhere between the right kicking target and the drop targets?

Edit: Like this, perhaps?!
image_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpeg

You guys weren't kidding about how crucial having the manual is! So do I just have to solder it back onto that wire loop there next to the other blue wire?

#72 8 years ago

yup, both wires should be doubled up there. Look at you doing your own troubleshooting. Nice going! We need more newbies like you on pinside. More of the self do'ers and less of the cash throwers.

#73 8 years ago

Awesome job!!

#74 8 years ago

It's funny. Stargate also taught me how to troubleshoot/use the switch matrix diagram. I had three or four switches out and traced it back to a single broken solder joint. Once you get SG running you will have very few issues.

Off topic, sort of, Stargate is one of my absolute favorite games. It is one of a few keepers in my collection. Congrats on a great game!

#75 8 years ago

I agree. It's a top 8 for me as well. I don't have one anymore, but will in the future again.

#76 8 years ago

Stargate was the first pin I owned and the one that got me back into pinball after 35 years.

#77 8 years ago

http://giphy.com/gifs/gravity-falls-soos-problem-solved-ToMjGpQhCXW8ZQjQK40

Soldered the wire back on, (Albeit somewhat poorly, but it's not smoking or sparking so... Once I get better at this I'd like to go back and reheat some of these not so great joints) and the drops and guard both now work! Can't play at the moment since everyone's asleep, but I'll definitely be playing it a lot tomorrow since I'm off and some friends are coming over! Glad I got it all fixed in time!

Now I can really start to fully enjoy this game! Still need to fix a few other issues, but now gameplay wise it's 100%. (Well, still need to fix the skill shot ramp not sending the ball through the hole)

From what I've played I'd definitely consider this an underrated pin like the rest of you. Some of the scoring may be a little imbalanced, but overall there's a lot to do and the quartz mechanic adds some really unique strategy to the game. Anyways, I'm glad it's a Gottlieb, kept the price down!

Also, probably going to watch the movie soon, because I stopped by the Goodwill when I was out looking for soldering stuff (Not in the Goodwill, I just popped in since I was passing by) and wouldn't you know it they had a copy of Stargate on VHS for $0.50! Might watch it Saturday evening, and then I'll have some idea of what's going on in the game!

#78 8 years ago

You have a vhs player?

#79 8 years ago
Quoted from mystman12:

The right kicking target, however, works fine. So does that mean there's a break somewhere between the right kicking target and the drop targets?
Edit: Like this, perhaps?!

OP, that's awesome you found this on your own, and on your first pin for that matter! Great job!! I had a similar problem on my Dirty Harry, but took quite some time to track down, and DH was my second pin!

#80 8 years ago

You have certainly jumped right in on your first pin repair! Great job! I find that next to getting a high score, there isn't a much better feeling than fixing my own pinball machines

#81 8 years ago

Well, started a game this morning, targets were broke again... Turns out my original solder job was so bad, the wire popped back off over night... So, I took a second go at it today and, by some miracle, I ended up with a super hype solder joint!
image_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpeg

Nice 'n' shiny, smooth, it all sort of happened by accident, but hey, I'm happy!

#82 8 years ago
Quoted from mystman12:

Well, started a game this morning, targets were broke again... Turns out my original solder job was so bad, the wire popped back off over night... So, I took a second go at it today and, by some miracle, I ended up with a super hype solder joint!
image_(resized).jpeg
Nice 'n' shiny, smooth, it all sort of happened by accident, but hey, I'm happy!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terrybs-soldering-guide-part-1

#83 8 years ago

Yeah, I've already read that, watched his video multiple times, and asked a ton of questions myself! It seems fairly straightforward, but when I actually start soldering it all happens so fast... I'm sure I'll get better at it with practice though!

#84 8 years ago

Hmm, I really can't seem to get this playfield to slide out, at least by myself. It's obvious I can, but the slot the playfield hinge sits in is pretty deep, can't seem to get it high enough to go over.
image_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpeg

#85 8 years ago

I think I solved what's causing the glidercraft issue. For some reason, when the glidercraft is in the leftmost position, the glidercraft stop switch is activated, which should only be active when the glidercraft is retracted. So the game thinks the glidercraft is retracted and ready to close the pyramid once it moves to the left. I'll have to get a good look at the switch, but I'm not sure if I can until I manage to pull the playfield out.

#86 8 years ago

Might have to rock it back and forth or pick up the playfield to get it out of the back hole. Then it will slide forward

#87 8 years ago

it takes a good pull. Slide some teflon lube on those rails and the slider pivots. Helps a lot.

#88 8 years ago

Well, looks like I accidentally fixed the glidercraft! I started taking it apart, and I found out that whoever worked on it last lost the elastic stop nuts that held it in place. It was simply held up by the wires. Anyways, after I figures I'd just put it back the way it was until I could find the proper nuts, but now the glidercraft is actually working fine! Still need to get the proper parts, but I'm pretty happy it's working regardless!

Also, I figured out the best way to fix the skill shot issue would be to get a slightly longer plunger spring (The one on the outside of the machine), about one fourth of an inch longer. That, or something to put inbetween it and the cabinet. The plunger just goes to far forward. Is there a way to adjust this without getting a new spring?

The three bank of drop targets has started acting kind of strange, where they have a hard time dropping. Do they just need a good cleaning?

Anyways, still really enjoying this game! Just need to reheat the optos on the left ramp as that's the most annoying issue at the moment, then I'll enjoy it even more!

#89 8 years ago

nice going.

Good way to take up slack is to put washers in between the short barrel spring. between the cabinet and the spring.

#90 8 years ago

Thanks, that's probably what I'll do.

So, before I reheat the opto boards, I want to make sure, I'm supposed to do the points the wires are connected to, correct?
image_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpeg

Do I need to be more careful since this is on a board, or is it pretty much the same as reheating a solenoid? Also, do I need flux for reheating this? I realized the flux I bought (And accidentally used in a couple places...) isn't meant for electronics, so I don't have any at the moment.

#91 8 years ago

Okay, so I reheated the opto-boards, with little success... They had the same behavior as before. However, I also discovered, that by wiggling the opto around, the emitter goes out, so I guess I just didn't do a good enough job reheating it... I did find a nice temporary solution, however, by placing some stick on foam between the opto and the ramp, as well as probably just getting the wires in a good position so that they won't lose contact with the emitter board.

So, while it's not perfect yet, the game now plays %100! I'll go back and reheat the emitter soon enough, but right now I just want to play some pinball! (Without getting tons of combo freebies from the left ramp constantly triggering!)

#92 8 years ago

Okay, so I can't seem to find a good answer for this, how do I clean the translite and and the panel in front of the DMD? Also, the mirror on my Stargate. Obviously, I want to get rid of the smudges, without getting rid of Ra in the process! Is the glass on the from side of the translite separate from the actual artwork? I think I just need to clean the front, so would Sprayaway be fine? That's what I've used on the playfield glass.

#93 8 years ago
Quoted from mystman12:

Okay, so I can't seem to find a good answer for this, how do I clean the translite and and the panel in front of the DMD? Also, the mirror on my Stargate. Obviously, I want to get rid of the smudges, without getting rid of Ra in the process! Is the glass on the from side of the translite separate from the actual artwork? I think I just need to clean the front, so would Sprayaway be fine? That's what I've used on the playfield glass.

Sprayway is probably fine, just try a corner first. RA's face wouldn't be my first test subject, lol.

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