(Topic ID: 150740)

Finally got my first pin, Stargate! Need a little help!


By mystman12

3 years ago



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  • Latest reply 3 years ago by Hougie
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13
#1 3 years ago

Not a game I originally thought I'd pick up, but one thing led to another and I ended up with a nice Stargate!
image_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpeg

Haven't got it out of the car yet (Plus I have to go to work at 10 for a meeting, and then work until 7... ), but I can't wait to get it up in my room and figure everything out! I plan on doing lots of tweaking to get it to play just right! Any more beginner tips are appreciated, gonna have to read over my other threads to refresh my memory.

Also, one question (out of *many* to come!), we had to leave the machine in the car, which was in the garage, overnight, so how long should I leave it inside to let it warm up before turning it on?

Edit: Here come the "many to come"! Encountered some issues, see this post: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/finally-got-my-first-pin-stargate#post-2942904

#2 3 years ago

And the sickness begins......

Congrats on your first pin. I would think 30 minutes should be plenty of time to let any condensation that may build up from bringing it inside evaporate off.

#3 3 years ago

Yeah, congrats. I haven't played Stargate in many years, but I hear lots of good things about it.
As for how long to wait, 30 min SHOULD be enough. I'd just get it in, set it up, open everything up (coin door, remove backglass, open back panel, etc, maybe even pop the playfield up), then, when you think everything is dry, wait another 10 minutes. No need to rush it.

#4 3 years ago
Quoted from Grangeomatic:

Yeah, congrats. I haven't played Stargate in many years, but I hear lots of good things about it.
As for how long to wait, 30 min SHOULD be enough. I'd just get it in, set it up, open everything up (coin door, remove backglass, open back panel, etc, maybe even pop the playfield up), then, when you think everything is dry, wait another 10 minutes. No need to rush it.

I was gonna say the same thing....if you raise the playfield, the temp will adjust faster and you can check everything over while it's open.
Congrats!!!

#5 3 years ago

Congratulations!

#6 3 years ago

Welcome to the divine madness. "Shoot the pyramid! Shoot the pyramid!"

#7 3 years ago

Yeah, I was definitely planning on opening everything to make sure nothing fell out of place on the drive (I've read the horror stories), but I didn't think to leave it open to let it dry/warm up, thanks for the tip!

#9 3 years ago

Congrats! I am hoping to get my first pin soon. Enjoy!

#10 3 years ago

Great game! Pay the haters no mind - Gottlieb's are awesome!

#11 3 years ago

Congrats! Stargate was my first pin.

Tip - load the pin in the car with the coin door going in first next time. A lot easier to put pin with its back sitting on the ground and lean into the car with coin door first, put cardboard down in the back of car and lift the back up and slide in.

Avoid deadlifting the game. When putting legs on, stand up the pin with it's back sitting on the ground and coin door up in the air. Put on front legs on first (make sure you are putting on the front legs, so you don't have to adjust all the levels again). Lean pin over with front legs on the floor. Get help and lift back of pin up and set on a stool in the middle. Use phone book or something to raise enough to put back legs on. Lift and remove stool and you are good to go. Buy furniture sliders if you are on a rug to move or rollers on tile.

Hope this helped.

#12 3 years ago
Quoted from pinnyheadhead:

Congrats! Stargate was my first pin.
Tip - load the pin in the car with the coin door going in first next time. A lot easier to put pin with its back sitting on the ground and lean into the car with coin door first, put cardboard down in the back of car and lift the back up and slide in.
Avoid deadlifting the game. When putting legs on, stand up the pin with it's back sitting on the ground and coin door up in the air. Put on front legs on first (make sure you are putting on the front legs, so you don't have to adjust all the levels again). Lean pin over with front legs on the floor. Get help and lift back of pin up and set on a stool in the middle. Use phone book or something to raise enough to put back legs on. Lift and remove stool and you are good to go. Buy furniture sliders if you are on a rug to move or rollers on tile.
Hope this helped.

Yeah, I definitely would have done that had I realized how difficult it would be to get out! Lesson learned, I guess.

#13 3 years ago

I prefer to load it coin door out.

To pull the pin out you can open the door and grab onto the pin easier.

#14 3 years ago

I go coindoor out, slide it out a foot and put front legs on. Then come out so one rear leg can go on, the the last rear leg.

#15 3 years ago

Awesome first pin! Just a great table regardless...

#16 3 years ago

Congrats! It was our first pin also. Mine is a permanent fixture. I LOVE Stargate!

#17 3 years ago

Congrats! Great game.... One of the hardest ramps to hit, but feels so good when you do.

#18 3 years ago

Great game! I'd like to find a nice Stargate someday

#19 3 years ago

Alright, so I've started to notice a few issues, and I'm absolutely clueless as to where to begin!

First thing, the Glidercraft doesn't seem to control properly. Usually when the mode ends, it ends up still extended, in its leftmost position, and the cover doesn't have room to come all the way down. The next time Glidercraft is starts, it starts swiveling and then *retracts* and swivels retracted. When the mode ends it remains retracted and this cycle repeats.

Another issue that's probably just a simple adjustment, is the ball often doesn't fall through the hole at the end up the plunger ramp, but rather bounces back down over it and I still get awarded a skillshot.

Also noticed the left guard, and the two bank of drop targets don't register hits. The switch test confirms this. I'm *really* hoping they just need cleaning or adjusting, because I have 0 experience with a soldering iron!

Finally, the left ramp trigger seems to be super sensitive; like, I was getting jackpots from that ramp when the balls simply touched the ramp entrance, and if I flipped the flippers a lot while the ball was in the plunger lane, it would also keep triggering the left ramp shot. Does it just need adjusted, or is it something else?

So, where do I start? Do I, uh... I'm so new at this I can't even guess where to start, haha!

Otherwise everything is working great, game seems really fun, and I can't wait to get a good grip on the rules. Here are a few more pics, too. (I know, the playfield pic is really blurry...) Tomorrow I'll probably take the glass off again and take some better pictures, especially with daylight.

IMG_6489_(resized).JPG
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#20 3 years ago

Darn it, why can't I delete my own double posts?! >.<

#21 3 years ago

Congrats with your game. I really like Stargate a lot! Seems like there's still quite some work to do. About the plunge: it happens on my game too, I think adding soft foam on the end, so the ball doesn't bounce back, will fix it.
I think the switch-problems and the pyramid are both things you could figure out with a lot of help, but if possible, you might want some help on location by a more experienced guy (/girl). Are there any pinsiders near you?
What you could do, is check if there aren't any loose wires to the switches. Make sure you remove the balls before getting the playfield in a fully up position.

Good luck with the problems: I'm sure you'll enjoy the game a lot once it works well. I think the game is better on a bit harder settings: you'll enjoy it longer if awards aren't too easy, so once you think the game gets a bit boring, change some settings to harder or hard! (or rather before it gets a bit boring ).

#22 3 years ago
Quoted from mystman12:

First thing, the Glidercraft doesn't seem to control properly. Usually when the mode ends, it ends up still extended, in its leftmost position, and the cover doesn't have room to come all the way down. The next time Glidercraft is starts, it starts swiveling and then *retracts* and swivels retracted. When the mode ends it remains retracted and this cycle repeats.
Another issue that's probably just a simple adjustment, is the ball often doesn't fall through the hole at the end up the plunger ramp, but rather bounces back down over it and I still get awarded a skillshot.
Also noticed the left guard, and the two bank of drop targets don't register hits. The switch test confirms this. I'm *really* hoping they just need cleaning or adjusting, because I have 0 experience with a soldering iron!
Finally, the left ramp trigger seems to be super sensitive; like, I was getting jackpots from that ramp when the balls simply touched the ramp entrance, and if I flipped the flippers a lot while the ball was in the plunger lane, it would also keep triggering the left ramp shot. Does it just need adjusted, or is it something else?

First thing, welcome to pinball. Second, did you get a manual? Gotlebb made a great manual. If you do not have one then, next, you need to contact "Pinball Resource". You can find their web site with Google search. Steve Young has the manuals and a great selection of parts for Gotlebb's. Warning however, when you call him have your part numbers available. He can seem a little gruff, but, once you get past that he is a great help.

As far as the drop targets, check to see if all the wires underneath are connected. Look at another drop target to get an idea of how they are wired. If they are wired ok , try and adjust to get them work. If not then hello Pinball Resource ( with part number)

Sounds like your ramp is an adjustment. Maybe too sensitive. Again, find the switch and try to adjust.

Not sure about Gildercraft, but my first look would be to see how much dirt/grime is associated with the the drive mechanism. If you find a lot of dirt and grime. Take apart and clean. Take a lot of pictures to help putting back the same way you found it.

You need to learn to solder. search on this website for ideas on what model to buy. I recommend you do not buy a cheap one. Once you get the soldering iron, hello "Youtube" for lessons and tips. Not that hard and does not have to be pretty. I have used alligator clips as a temporary way to attach until you solder.

The best games you will own are the ones that you return back to original design function.

Lastly, take pictures and post here with questions. You will get help.

#23 3 years ago

Calling Viperwrk..... Dr. Viperwrk your assistance is needed in the OR. Seriously though, he is the best source of SG help.

You already have some great suggestions above.

The ramp reject issue... you may want to change the spring in you plunger assembly or add some foam at the back of the ramp. That should fix it. But honestly, you should rarely be full plunging and instead should be trying for the skill shot.

Stargate uses a bunch of optos. The switches for both of the main ramps are controlled by optical sensors so you may need to see if they are working correctly.

I love my Stargate. It is an awesome game but it needs a few things to work 100%.

Rebuild the flipper mechs, at the minimum replace the coil sleeves, and upgrade your flipper coils to the strongest gottlieb flipper coil. I forget the number but it the only one stronger than the stock coils.

Make sure all of your optical sensors are working correctly. You will get strange gameplay and scoring if they are not all working correctly.

Install some Mylar squares under the area where the balls return to the inlanes from the habitrails. This will help protect it from future damage.

You are gonna need to learn how to solder and use a digital multi meter. Stargate is as great game and is pretty solid once you get it working 100%.

#24 3 years ago

Yep, I've got the manual, although I'm pretty clueless as to what half of it even means! I have used it to help me get through the operator's menu though.

How exactly do I adjust the optos? I figure this is the first thing that needs addressed because the issue has gotten worse and the game is really wonky at this point. I figured I would clean them first and make sure they are aligned well, but how do I adjust/align them? Looking at it through the glass it looks like the emitter and receiver are part of one plastic bracket.

#25 3 years ago
Quoted from mystman12:

How exactly do I adjust the optos? I figure this is the first thing that needs addressed because the issue has gotten worse and the game is really wonky at this point.

take a q tip and make sure they are clean. Then in switch test or with a game in play, roll a ball past the switch an see if it registers. In the case of opto's, if it does not register you may to check the solder joints/ wire connections. if that doesn't fix it next stop is replacing the optos.

Metal switches you can hear a click when actuated. Roll a ball over the switch. If it doesn't work check the wiring or adjust the arm that comes in contact with the ball.

#26 3 years ago

I did some tests, the opto on the left ramp triggers when the ball passes it fine, but it *also* triggers sometimes when the ball simply touches/shakes the left ramp. I was testing some gameplay and the issues calmed down again, so I definitely think it's simply either dirty or misaligned. I'm going to clean it and see if I can adjust it any.

Also, I just realized there's already some foam at the end of the skillshot ramp...

#27 3 years ago
Quoted from mystman12:

I did some tests, the opto on the left ramp triggers when the ball passes it fine, but it *also* triggers sometimes when the ball simply touches/shakes the left ramp. I was testing some gameplay and the issues calmed down again, so I definitely think it's simply either dirty or misaligned. I'm going to clean it and see if I can adjust it any.

As a couple have mentioned, you may need to reflow the solder on the back of the opto boards. After you clean them with alcohol, try wiggling the wires on the back of the boards. If this trips the opto the solder needs to be reflowed.

When you "reflow" solder you are simply melting it to flow back together. Touch the iron to the solder and apply a little fresh solder. My Stargate had a flakey opto on that ramp also. The vibration causes stress on the opto parts.

It's funny Stargate was my first pin and was not working. Many broken/missing parts and I learned a lot. Just take baby steps and you will work through it.

Keep us posted!

#28 3 years ago

Okay, so I cleaned to optos a little, and tightened up the bracket a little. However, now I have a problem with the plastic above the ramp. You can see here that the hole for the second screw doesn't line up, and the VUK scoop is keeping the plastic from moving any further. When I took the screw out it came out crooked because of this, plus you can see the plastic is beginning to crack right there.
IMG_6508_(resized).JPG

Haven't tested it yet, but will later tonight.

I'm also curious how to adjust the flippers, as they're not quite even:
IMG_6510_(resized).JPG

Anyways, here are some nicer pictures of the game, all help is appreciated!
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#30 3 years ago

The plastic is showing a spiderweb effect from being over tightened. Better lesson learned on a clear plastic than a ramp.

#31 3 years ago

Okay, so the optos on the ramp are little bit over sensitive, but they're *much* better than before (It only occasionally triggers when the ball touches the ramp entance), so I guess that's pretty good until I get my hands on a soldering iron so I can reheat it.

As for the plastic, should I just leave the mis-aligned screw out? That plastic is not gonna budge the way it's crammed in there anyways and I'd rather not try to force it and end up cracking the plastic. I'm assuming something else is slightly out of place, but I don't know what...

Anyways, next I'm going to try adjusting the right flipper to a better position, and I want to level the playfield, but...
IMG_6514_(resized).JPGIMG_6511_(resized).JPGIMG_6515_(resized).JPG

These legs are pretty rusted, and I'm not sure if they'll budge *and*... I, actually don't know, *how* I'm supposed to adjust these... How do I do that, and is there any hope for cleaning these legs or should I just get a new set?

#32 3 years ago

that playfield has been restored. Gate area looks great. But the bomb is worn, which has me confused. the center gate has been airbrushed and fixed. Don't know how the bomb would wear if it has been clearcoated.

#33 3 years ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

that playfield has been restored. Gate area looks great. But the bomb is worn, which has me confused. the center gate has been airbrushed and fixed. Don't know how the bomb would wear if it has been clearcoated.

Looks like it has full l mylar like most have

#34 3 years ago
Quoted from mystman12:

Okay, so the optos on the ramp are little bit over sensitive, but they're *much* better than before (It only occasionally triggers when the ball touches the ramp entance), so I guess that's pretty good until I get my hands on a soldering iron so I can reheat it.
As for the plastic, should I just leave the mis-aligned screw out? That plastic is not gonna budge the way it's crammed in there anyways and I'd rather not try to force it and end up cracking the plastic. I'm assuming something else is slightly out of place, but I don't know what...
Anyways, next I'm going to try adjusting the right flipper to a better position, and I want to level the playfield, but...
IMG_6514_(resized).JPGIMG_6511_(resized).JPGIMG_6515_(resized).JPG
These legs are pretty rusted, and I'm not sure if they'll budge *and*... I, actually don't know, *how* I'm supposed to adjust these... How do I do that, and is there any hope for cleaning these legs or should I just get a new set?

I wld get some new leg levelers at least but also new legs wldnt hurt lol.

#35 3 years ago

Auto zone sells evaporate rust remover. Get a 4" piece of pvc by about 3' long and glue a cap on one end. I like to fill about half way full and place your rusty legs in there two at a time. Leave for a day for heavy rust. I then flip them around to do the other side. It will tack that rust off and should be able to move the leg levelers. But eventually replace the leveler. They are cheap. Then spray a clear coat to help from rusting again.

#36 3 years ago
Quoted from mystman12:

Okay, so the optos on the ramp are little bit over sensitive, but they're *much* better than before (It only occasionally triggers when the ball touches the ramp entance), so I guess that's pretty good until I get my hands on a soldering iron so I can reheat it.
As for the plastic, should I just leave the mis-aligned screw out? That plastic is not gonna budge the way it's crammed in there anyways and I'd rather not try to force it and end up cracking the plastic. I'm assuming something else is slightly out of place, but I don't know what...
Anyways, next I'm going to try adjusting the right flipper to a better position, and I want to level the playfield, but...
IMG_6514_(resized).JPGIMG_6511_(resized).JPGIMG_6515_(resized).JPG
These legs are pretty rusted, and I'm not sure if they'll budge *and*... I, actually don't know, *how* I'm supposed to adjust these... How do I do that, and is there any hope for cleaning these legs or should I just get a new set?

Also if you care about you carpet put something under them for now so the rust dont mark it up.

#37 3 years ago

Thanks for the advice guys!

So the flippers, again, I don't really know what I'm doing, especially without pictures. I read the linked to thread above, but I'm still not sure what I'm supposed to loosen. I tried turning these two black knobs...

...but they're *really* tight, which, I guess would be the point, but I'm afraid I'm going to break something/remove the wrong thing. Are those what I need to loosen to adjust the flipper? Again, thanks!

#38 3 years ago
Quoted from mystman12:

Thanks for the advice guys!
So the flippers, again, I don't really know what I'm doing, especially without pictures. I read the linked to thread above, but I'm still not sure what I'm supposed to loosen. I tried turning these two black knobs...
IMG_6518_(resized).JPG
...but they're *really* tight, which, I guess would be the point, but I'm afraid I'm going to break something/remove the wrong thing. Are those what I need to loosen to adjust the flipper? Again, thanks!

Correct

#39 3 years ago

They may have lock tight on them. You can take a soldering iron and put it on the screw for a bit and then try to unscrew.

#40 3 years ago

Alright, thanks! Flipper looks good now!

Quoted from t2:

They may have lock tight on them. You can take a soldering iron and put it on the screw for a bit and then try to unscrew.

Nah, it was just really tight, I'm just afraid to do almost anything without knowing if it's exactly what I'm supposed to do!

#41 3 years ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

Looks like it has full l mylar like most have

but, the grid gate that is around the shoot again area, is airbrushed. It's suppose to be pixelated halftoning like the gate is. This is not.

#42 3 years ago

Is this a good soldering iron for me? It was linked in TerryB's soldering guide: amazon.com link »

Wasn't sure from the post if this was meant for boards, playfield components, or what. If this is good I'll go ahead and get it, thankfully I have some boards we'll never use again that I can practice on.

#43 3 years ago

i wouldn't. you can get the same thing at radio shack for $15. If you are going to spend $40 on one, get one with a variable temp dial, so you can adjust the temp.

#44 3 years ago

Welcome to the hobby! I am excited for you!

Wish I could help you more with some of your questions, but I've never had a Stargate.

I was a lot like you when I got my first pin...pretty clueless with no soldering skills. Part of the fun for me was learning how to fix my machines, and the excitement and pride of fixing them myself. Needless to say, I still have lots of questions, but I am better equipped to tackle them myself now. As you see, the people on pinside are pretty amazing and helpful.

My piece of advice regarding the soldering (if you think this will turn into a long term hobby for you) is to buy a quality soldering iron. I had a cheap one and it was terrible, and then got one my friend recommended and it made a big difference. I am still not the greatest at soldering, but can handle small jobs like reflowing solder on pins, soldering wires to switches, coils, etc. Here is the soldering iron I have and really really like it:

amazon.com link »

Have fun!

#45 3 years ago

Got on the high score list for the first time today, with 1 billion points!
image_(resized).jpeg

Did really good in the Battle and Ra's Temple rounds, as well as a super jackpot from Eye of Ra. Had enough quartz to light the extra ball, but just couldn't make the trade quartz shot for the life of me!

This game really is great, but I think that needs to be kept a secret, otherwise prices will rise and people like me wouldn't be able to afford it!

#46 3 years ago

Welcome to the Hobby! Stargate is far from being the worst choice for a first pin. I miss mine. 1 billion is a very decent score, especially if you did not get an extra ball. Love the Quartz trade decisions.

Enjoy your game!

#47 3 years ago

Alright, I did some tests and it looks like my Glidercraft left switch isn't working, which would probably explain it's behavior. I ordered a soldering iron which should arrive tomorrow, plus I have that day off so I should be able to do some reheating!

#48 3 years ago

This is odd... My sister was playing, everything was fine, but then the VUK behind the right guard just quit working. Solenoid didn't fire in the test or anything. So I opened the game up, found the solenoid, and I just took the connector, jiggled it a little bit, pushed on it to make sure it was plugged in tight, and when I turned on the game the pinball fired out and all was back to normal. So, could the connector be dirty, or could it be a cold joint or anything?

Also, I noticed that the Combo light near the flippers blinks on and off when flipping, and the Trade Quartz light neat the flippers doesn't light in attract mode or tests, but functions as normal during gameplay. Neither of these are huge issues of course, just thought I'd throw them out there.

Finally, I don't know if this is normal or not, but it always scares me; When I'm sliding the glass back on, it goes almost all the way to the top, but then gets caught on something. I then need to push on it pretty hard to get the last inch I need to put the lock down bar on. The thing is it always hits the back of it's slot pretty hard and I'm always afraid I'm going to end up breaking it one of these days.

#49 3 years ago

Aaaand here's another weird thing the game did. My brother was playing when the game just up and shut off. Didn't reset, just went off. I figured a fuse blew, but I switched it off, unplugged it, then plugged it back in and switched it on, and it was just fine... So it wasn't a fuse... Also the kicker behind the right guard failed again. That soldering iron can't come soon enough!

Took a look at the boards in the backbox, but obviously I had no idea what I was looking at! All the LEDs were blinking though which I'm assuming means everything's working.

#50 3 years ago
Quoted from mystman12:

When I'm sliding the glass back on, it goes almost all the way to the top, but then gets caught on something.

Not normal, but this will be tempered glass so your also not likely to break it. The most likely cause is the glass is getting hung up on the rear trim, you may be able to re position it to correct the problem.

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