Several people have remade them.

However, the fuse that is missing is for the coils, so the problem may be elsewhere in the game.

If it's available for a good price and the cosmetics are decent, you should already be in your car bringing it home

Rebuild kits and instructions for those boards are common. The only pain is the wires from the transformer are soldered to the back. Steve Kulpa has some nice photos on his web site. About $80 if you go for a full replacement.

Have you seen the mpu? If it's been sitting battery damage can be an issue. About 110 for a reconditioned board or 200 for an altek.

F2K is a fun game, great spinner rips and a difficult multiball. You may be looking at 280 in new boards so offer accordingly.

A alltek in canada is between 350 and 400 canadain by the time you get it to your house.

OOF, forgot about exchange rates

$300-400 you say?
Do you consider yourself to be a thief because that would be quite a steal!

What you haven't bought it yet?!?

Why are you still here?

NICE!!! Congrats!!!! This was a fun thread to read. Definitely post to the solid state tech group here if you have any trouble. Good luck with it!

Nicely done!

GPE has their replacement rectifier board in stock.
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=135-105

I recently bought one from them, but haven't had time to install it yet.

dont replace , repair , its the easiest board to learn and work on.

it could be a standard 7A fuse was blowing and not the recommended slow-blow fuse

I'd check for a burnt solenoid someplace & all new caps on solenoid driver-board

nice find

Some pictures .... I paid $500 for mine too and saved it from becoming a virtual pin cab. Congrats, it's a great game.

finding these places is half the fun. building electrical supply, radio shack has either 6 or 8 amp slo blo fuses

I just looked in mine and it has an "AGC 5amp" fuse which is a fast acting fuse it's holding & a lower amperage so I'm ok on that one. might be an amp over on another though

Looks like a great find! Also, doesn't look like there is any battery damage, but I would recommend removing it ASAP and putting on a NVRAM adaptor: http://nvram.weebly.com/ (STERN MPU-200) or http://www.pinitech.com/products/stern_mpu200_nvram.php

I got the red one on my board for U13 & U8 sockets ... not sure about shipping requirements to Canada

the 2 big caps on solenoid driver board look like the originals

the EEPROM's could use a sticker over their windows.

you''l have to watch the original Karate Kid movie

yeah high score to date memory looks corrupted can clear it & see if new one holds , prolly need a new battery or the NVRAM adaptor as described above.

captured ball works perfectly

I'll be ordering 5 new numbered drops for mine soon, I hadn't messed with those yet

Fun game. I love the left spinner!

Mine came with black rubbers when I found it. they looked better than the white ones I saw everywhere else & work really well.

I did get them 5 numbered new drop targets but still need to install them from PBResource they look terrific , the 3 drops on the right on mine looked ok but I have a feeling after I put these in I will wish I had gotten those as well.

what I have there and think are the correct ones would be the "S-Box" in blue http://pbresource.com/pfdroptar.htm#Stern

the only lighting "mod" I did was to use #455 lamps behind the meteor on the backglass

IMG_1196 (resized).JPG

went to mess with them targets last night & see a couple of the short shafts with the e-clips missing .... I can't seem to find a part # or description for these. most probably a common hardware-store item.

my machine is working for now & only get a few random drops, I got another project pin I need to get going before I dis-able my F2k

I'm sure you know this, but those 1-5 drop targets have memory so they do some quirky things when you first encounter this game. If you start a new game they should all come up and stay up...drop all 5 and again they should all reset, good way to test them (during multiplayer games they will all reset and then the solenoids will knock some back down to put them back where they were when last ball fell out).

I have replaced the drops on a friends game. The metal bar that pushes all 5 drops back up can be adjusted so they all come up level, but also so that when the targets fall down the same bar is not stopping any targets from dropping all the way down level with playfield. On my machine, I actually had to build up the bar on one side under drops 4-5 with a stack of thin strips of ducktape, so that those targets would come up enough to catch and stay up. Was easy to fine tune and worked perfect. On my friends machine someone had previously put a small button of silicone type caulk on the bar where each drop contacted it, I assume for the same reason so they would come up enough to grab and stay up. Just some thoughts...

Hey, also if you put rapid led multicolor flashers behind the rocketships thruster flames in the backglass it really brings them alive...

Here's my first shot at printing and applying my own decals. Give it a try.I couldnt print the whole planet in one decal,but its the enemy of bad,*its better!

IMG_20170114_192908 (resized).jpg

IMG_20170115_174845 (resized).jpg

Heres my finished product ,I was able to print a larger decal. The worst part is that my laser printer wont match the orange. I am not artistic at all, so maybe you should think about giving it a try.It cant be worse than it is.

IMG_20170116_182514 (resized).jpg

That might be how the drops work. If I remember right you're supposed to drop them in order. If you hit one out of order they reset once you hit the number you were supposed to. The outlane may spot one number. I can't remember that.

I'd clean the playfield with novus 2, followed with a coat of wax and get it playing! Personally, I'd hold off on getting the pf cleared/restored until after you've decided the game's a keeper for your collection.

Just my 2 cents!

My bro scored two tables in pretty bad shape that i want to get working and restored. One is Flight 2000 and the other is Skateball. Both were purchased for $140 but are in need of some repair. Flight 2000 just "hums" real loud and all the lights turn on when plugged in. I cant get to tbe boards as I have no key. I know i need to drill out the key hole to get to the boards but then what is my next step? I am a first timer so I am really anxious to get this table in really decent shape but it is going to obviously take a lot of work. Any help would be appreciated. Ill get pics posted asap.

I'd recommend starting a new thread in the early solid-state tech forum here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/forum/tech-early-80s-solid-state

Best of luck with those games!

The only pic i have right now

Screenshot_2017-01-31-11-17-56 (resized).png

Backglass is in bad shape too, but $140 for two tables can't beat that!

Screenshot_2017-01-31-11-18-08 (resized).png

do you have the key to the coin door ? may be the same key for the head -or- the head key might be on a hook over by the tilt mechinism

does it make any dinging noises on startup ? .... the dings correspond to the "seven flashes" on the MPU board .... you'll find out about the "seven flashes" here http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/ballyss/rep/index2.htm