(Topic ID: 297077)

Faulty fuse holder caused my Munsters to go dead - not the power supply!

By Flippingr8

12 days ago


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  • 24 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 hour ago by Dent00
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 12 days ago

UH-OH! Was playing a game on my Munsters LE today when all of a sudden in the middle of a ball, heard something kind of like a short PFFTT and the game went completely dead, and now won't turn on whatsoever - just completely dead. Checked the 8A fuse in the power supply and it tests fine. Plugged something into service outlet and it doesn't work. I don’t see any lit LED’s on the CPU board or the Power Distribution board. Did my power supply fry?

I took off the cover of the power supply and see the barrier strip. How do you remove the clear plastic cover to allow for using multimeter lead points? I know it’s there for a reason but I don’t see an easy way to check for voltage using a multimeter like the Stern Spike manual page 29-30 talks about.

Others with similar problems to this one? Recommendations? Any good videos on Spike 2 power supply troubleshooting and replacement? Thanks.

#2 12 days ago
Quoted from Flippingr8:

ow do you remove the clear plastic cover to allow for using multimeter lead points?

Probably slides off left or right. Got a photo of it?

#3 11 days ago
Quoted from Flippingr8:

Plugged something into service outlet and it doesn't work.

Sounds like the issue is at the power cord or where it comes into the machine. The first thing the power goes to is the service outlet before even going into the power supply.

TNT Amusements talked about this issue a few months ago (it was also a Munsters) and it's a simple fix.

(Starts at the 8:50 mark.)

#4 11 days ago

I am curious to find out if the power connections on the power supply with loose screws is the problem here.
If there are loose screws on the power supply connections, that could cause the problems described in this thread.

#5 5 days ago

I got the plastic covers off. No loose screws. I unplugged and replugged in the power cord connector behind the backbox. Whatever I do, I'm getting no power even at the service outlet. Could it be a bad line filter - the thing that says Delta on it? If that goes bad will there be no power, even at the service plug? I have power where the machine is plugged into an outlet, so it isn't that. Again, I heard a short "PFFFT" while playing a ball and then the thing went dead. I haven't tested 110 V AC power using leads at N and L on the power supply but quite frankly doing that kind of scares me and I'm guessing that's not needed if even the service outlet is dead.

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#6 5 days ago

what are those plastic things with the orange bases below the Delta EMI filter? Are those wire splice connectors or fuses or something? Do they go bad?

#7 5 days ago

Since the game's service box is not working, test the room's wall outlet to make sure that is still working (approximately 120 V AC).
I believe you should be getting 120 volts AC approximately between the L (black wire) and Ground (green wire) terminals on the Mean Well.

#8 5 days ago
Quoted from Flippingr8:

what are those plastic things with the orange bases below the Delta EMI filter? Are those wire splice connectors

Yes.

Procedure for testing your outlet: https://mrelectric.com/blog/how-to-use-a-multimeter-to-test-an-outlet

Quoted from DCFAN:

I believe you should be getting 120 volts AC approximately between the L (black wire) and Ground (green wire) terminals on the Mean Well.

If the outlet is properly grounded you will. Should get 120vAC between L and N on the Meanwell, those should be coming from the outlet.

#9 5 days ago
Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:

Yes.
Procedure for testing your outlet: https://mrelectric.com/blog/how-to-use-a-multimeter-to-test-an-outlet

If the outlet is properly grounded you will. Should get 120vAC between L and N on the Meanwell, those should be coming from the outlet.

I was trying not to get too basic but based on what has been said (that I have read anyway) we don't know if the house breaker has tripped for that outlet either.
As a less scientific and less informative or safe means, he could also plug a house lamp in the outlet to find out if the outlet is getting 120V.

#10 5 days ago

Update. So I think its the Delta EMI line filter thing that fried. I'm getting zero power at the service outlet or in between the L and N terminals on the R side for 120 V AC in. The wall outlet is working. The power cord looks good - no chew marks. Power cord seated tightly into back box receptacle. Fuse triple checked and seems to be seated as best as I can get it.

I see that the first place power goes in the machine is into the Delta EMI line filter thing. Do those things every fry? How do you test them and where can you get a new one?

Working with Eddie Yates of tech support at Stern to see if he can help me figure it out.

#11 5 days ago

You should be able to measure 120 volts in the back of the connectors that lead to the filter with the meter probes.

Did you check the fuse in the service box?

#12 5 days ago

Looking at the filter on the internet , the plug on the back of the game plugs directly into the filter. I would measure the voltage at the end of the power plug disconnected from the game, and at the output terminals of the filter to confirm the filter is bad.
That way you will be sure if the 120 V is at the input of the filter and not at the output of the filter.

#13 5 days ago
Quoted from Flippingr8:

Update. So I think its the Delta EMI line filter thing that fried. I'm getting zero power at the service outlet or in between the L and N terminals on the R side for 120 V AC in. The wall outlet is working. The power cord looks good - no chew marks. Power cord seated tightly into back box receptacle. Fuse triple checked and seems to be seated as best as I can get it.
I see that the first place power goes in the machine is into the Delta EMI line filter thing. Do those things every fry? How do you test them and where can you get a new one?
Working with Eddie Yates of tech support at Stern to see if he can help me figure it out.

Yes, those line filters can fail (the chokes can fail "open"), in which case you won't get any voltage at the output terminals. Test it by measuring the line voltage at the input, then at the output.

From the label it looks like that is a standard 2-stage 6A 250VAC EMI filter (functions to filter noise caused by RFI/EMI piggybacking on the AC line voltage, necessary for reliable operation of the high-speed digital circuits). You can probably get an exact replacement if you search, but these are very common parts and any replacement you find with identical specs should work fine (do confirm with Stern however); they typically cost around $10 or so.

#14 5 days ago

test the voltage between the bottom terminals in this picture
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#16 5 days ago

Getting 115 V ac across those two line filter lugs so the line filter isn't the problem. Are there any fuses or things that can burn up in the service outlet box because I'm not getting any juice across the N and L power supply terminals or the service outlet, and the fuse tests good. Ive checked it like 5 times. When you put the fuse back in, it goes in and gets a little snug when you turn it a certain way, but it by no means gets tight. Is that correct?

#17 5 days ago
Quoted from Flippingr8:

Getting 115 V ac across those two line filter lugs so the line filter isn't the problem. Are there any fuses or things that can burn up in the service outlet box because I'm not getting any juice across the N and L power supply terminals or the service outlet, and the fuse tests good. Ive checked it like 5 times. When you put the fuse back in, it goes in and gets a little snug when you turn it a certain way, but it by no means gets tight. Is that correct?

Isn't there a line fuse in the service box? They usually kind of screw out but I am not sure with Spike system.

#18 5 days ago

The little black round fuse:
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#19 5 days ago

The 8 amp fuse in the round holder checks out fine with a meter. I was wondering if there are any fuses inside the service outlet box. I don’t see any. Just wires and those wire connector things made out of clear plastic with the house shaped orange bases. Do those things ever go bad?

#20 5 days ago
Quoted from Flippingr8:

The 8 amp fuse in the round holder checks out fine with a meter. I was wondering if there are any fuses inside the service outlet box. I don’t see any. Just wires and those wire connector things made out of clear plastic with the house shaped orange bases. Do those things ever go bad?

There may be a little disc looking varistor in the service box that could have blown.
It would look something like this:

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#21 5 days ago

That green round device is an MOV (Metal Oxide Varister) and they are designed to fail to protect items that are inside the machine. So, if there was an abnormal voltage event of any kind (lightning, floating neutral, utility spike, etc, etc.) that device will fail and make a sound that could be what you heard. It could also have just failed during normal use, which happens sometimes. They are relatively inexpensive, but it probably just as easy to purchase a new line filter if the MOV inside has failed. If Stern provides you with a new one, it probably not a big deal to replace it. Just make sure that you unplug the machine before working on it. I would also check the voltage at your outlet to make sure that is within about 10% of 120 Volts. If the voltage at the outlet is high, like around 170 volts, you could have a floating neutral or some other problem that damaged the line filter and a new one could be damaged in the same way.

#22 5 days ago
Quoted from Dent00:

That green round device is an MOV (Metal Oxide Varister) and they are designed to fail to protect items that are inside the machine. So, if there was an abnormal voltage event of any kind (lightning, floating neutral, utility spike, etc, etc.) that device will fail and make a sound that could be what you heard. It could also have just failed during normal use, which happens sometimes. They are relatively inexpensive, but it probably just as easy to purchase a new line filter if the MOV inside has failed. If Stern provides you with a new one, it probably not a big deal to replace it. Just make sure that you unplug the machine before working on it. I would also check the voltage at your outlet to make sure that is within about 10% of 120 Volts. If the voltage at the outlet is high, like around 170 volts, you could have a floating neutral or some other problem that damaged the line filter and a new one could be damaged in the same way.

Just to make sure what you wrote is clear to the thread starter, the line filter is separate from the service box. If there is a replaceable MOV it is not in the filter part. In this case, spike 2, the emi filter is essentially the power cord receptacle and emi filter combo assembly and outputs to the service box which probably has (or may have) a varistor in it.

#23 3 hours ago

Problem solved - it was a faulty fuse holder! It must have given way during the middle of a game pushing the fuse out of contact although it still seemed to be making contact. There are two little ears on each side of the fuse holder and they were bent out at about 30 degrees or so - I tried to bend them to 90 degrees and one sheared off (on the left in the pic). I ordered a new fuse holder (on the right in the pic) and saw that it grabbed well and locked into place and the machine now works. I'm even using the same fuse. Never thought that a fuse holder could be the source of a problem like this. Thanks to everyone here and Eddie at Stern Tech support as well.

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#24 1 hour ago

Wow... Makes me wonder how that fuse holder got bent like that in the first place...
Almost like someone attempted to pull it out without pushing in and twisting properly.

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