(Topic ID: 340763)

Fathom - Sea Captain's Log - Homebrew Scratch Build

By cwg29

11 months ago


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  • 144 posts
  • 26 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 months ago by cwg29
  • Topic is favorited by 22 Pinsiders

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There are 144 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 3.
#1 11 months ago

Starting my 2nd homebrew machine. Because, well I'm not sure why . This one is more of a scratch build of Fathom. In my foolishness I believed it to be more of a straightforward approach with only a few minor changes. Just buy already existing parts, right? Well... early 80's Bally machines have some unique devices. The pop bumper design is fascinating but hard to find in stores or expensive. And those drop target assemblies seem extremely rare. Reached out to Hagis, who have built a beautiful recreation of Fathom. As of yet, they are not selling any hardware. But it sure would be cool if they did!

In order to use more common pinball hardware, I have decided to pass on the CPR playfield and scratch build it. This seems more logical as I get deeper into this project. I want to use mostly clear inserts to take advantage of RGB leds. Colored inserts really only show one color no matter what the LED is doing. The playfield is getting standard pop bumpers so that changes the cut. Also, I'm using the modern trough and auto launcher, another change in cut. And the biggest change is instead of 2 3X inline drop target assemblies I will modify the artwork and cut for 2X inline drop target assemblies (4).

The cabinet. I like having a deeper playfield than the traditional one for this era. So, I scratch built one that from a distance looks similar but this one has more slope on the top sides. The playfield rests a little deeper. More room for some light effects and mods. I'm passing on elevated ball guides. I just can't make sense of how that would work (I initially considered changing the 2 saucer drops to VUKs and do ball return wire guides). In the end I don't think I gave myself enough room and am skittish about cutting my CPR plastics.

Using the CobraPin controller and recreating a facsimile of the game rules using MPF code. Having total creative control is awesome! CobraPin has now added serial score displays to their store so that takes care of the back glass displays. I want to add some sort of marquee LCD display on the playfield backwall for animations. Need to investigate further.

I have an updated parts list and other resources available for those interested. Will be trying a few non-Fathom parts out to try and match hardware so maybe if some of these work out that might be useful to someone else. For anyone starting a homebrew machine, I highly recommend buying as much hardware up front. With the hardware in hand, you can carefully measure as you build to ensure things are going to fit.

Started my playfield. This time around I'm going to have my artwork printed, punch and cut all my holes and then use that to mark up my playfield before doing the inserts. Last time I printed out the art in sections which worked mostly but did throw a few things off a tad.

BOM & Cabinet DIM
https://1drv.ms/f/s!AmJnNrobtOftokQLOWWWGf1JR0CB?e=ldc6DZ
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#2 11 months ago

Good luck, i might copy some ideas from you, also in search of the droptarget assemblys, and it's hard! Your cabinets looks awesome!

#3 11 months ago

Playfield art received. A slightly modified version of the original art on 3M Control-Tac material. Bigmediaprinting.com. This time around I did all my razor cutting and hole punching and used the master print as a stencil to mark up the playfield. This should line up the inserts and art alot nicer. No particular advice here, just lots of patience and sharp blades. Tools: a gasket punch set, a exacto knife and a straight edge.

NEIKO 02604A Hole Punch Set | SAE... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09YYWYNJ4

IMG_20230805_061203762 (resized).jpgIMG_20230805_061203762 (resized).jpgIMG_20230805_063417748 (resized).jpgIMG_20230805_063417748 (resized).jpgIMG_20230805_124945729 (resized).jpgIMG_20230805_124945729 (resized).jpgIMG_20230805_155425470 (resized).jpgIMG_20230805_155425470 (resized).jpg

#4 11 months ago

pretty cool, and seems reasonably priced. what are you doing for text on the inserts, since you are punching them out?

#5 11 months ago

Super cool, following.

#6 11 months ago
Quoted from BorgDog:

pretty cool, and seems reasonably priced. what are you doing for text on the inserts, since you are punching them out?

I've used the easily obtainable insert decal set in the past and then clear coat over the whole playfield for my other projects. No issues and after wet sanding and recoats everything is fairly level. I'll document this as well this time around.

#7 11 months ago

The patents have long expired for the drop target mechs.

Why not just laser cut new ones?

Many laser/waterjet shops do in-house bending, so it could be one stop shopping.

#8 11 months ago
Quoted from vid1900:

The patents have long expired for the drop target mechs.
Why not just laser cut new ones?
Many laser/waterjet shops do in-house bending, so it could be one stop shopping.

I might have been interested in doing that at one point. I didn't find a lot of help on the subject and have no actual design information. Maybe this is an area that will grow. Any references?

#9 11 months ago

It probably isn’t cost efficient but for the inline drops, it’s probably easier to just use modern knock down coils. You can tie all the reset coils together so they all pulse up on the same reset signal, and could still be knocked down individually

#10 11 months ago
Quoted from cwg29:

I might have been interested in doing that at one point. I didn't find a lot of help on the subject and have no actual design information. Maybe this is an area that will grow. Any references?

https://100kgarages.com/

https://sendcutsend.com/services/waterjet-cutting/

#11 11 months ago
Quoted from TreyBo69:

It probably isn’t cost efficient but for the inline drops, it’s probably easier to just use modern knock down coils. You can tie all the reset coils together so they all pulse up on the same reset signal, and could still be knocked down individually

Yep, this is the route I went. I bought 4 and I need to order the little trip coils to make them smart drop targets. I have never actually played a real Fathom! I think I saw one years ago at the infamous pinball museum in Vegas. As usual it was out of order. Playing the Visual Pinball version it looks like the drops can drop as requested and then reset to lock the ball. I definitely want that.

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#12 11 months ago

Let the drilling begin. 1/2 Forstner bit for GI lights. I like these 5vdc RGB led light serial controlled strings. They fit snug in my holes and I find it has a good (not great) cosmetic from the top side.

GMJYC DC 5V 50pcs WS2811 Pixels Christmas Lights Outdoor Individually Addressable IP68 Waterproof LED String Lights Diffused Digital RGB LED Lights Full Color 12mm, for Garden/Party/Advertising Signs https://a.co/d/aN1JzBM

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#13 11 months ago

So is the plan to rewrite the code for a custom pinball controller?

#14 11 months ago

That's correct. MPF code and a CobraPin controller. Will be interesting. Not going for a 1 to 1 clone. I may do some sound sampling from the original Fathom and try to jazz things up a little bit.

#15 11 months ago

Drop target slots. Increased 6 bank slot length by 1/4" to use my hardware. Created a 1/2" hole on each end to line up router guide. Using a 1/2" straight router bit make sure the bit is not pressed up hard against the wood before turning it on or it may grab and chip. And as always be safe! I'm a hobbyist so if anyone wants to make recommendations fell free.

IMG_20230806_082629828 (resized).jpgIMG_20230806_082629828 (resized).jpg
#16 11 months ago

That’s amazing but where would one find the original plans?

#17 11 months ago

I have so many questions! Let me start with the cabinet and the head: what plans did you used to cut them? I know you mentioned you changed the angle slightly but I’m very curious as to what your reference was!
Thanks!
I’m amazed and so inspired by your project!

Quoted from cwg29:

Drop target slots. Increased 6 bank slot length by 1/4" to use my hardware. Created a 1/2" hole on each end to line up router guide. Using a 1/2" straight router bit make sure the bit is not pressed up hard against the wood before turning it on or it may grab and chip. And as always be safe! I'm a hobbyist so if anyone wants to make recommendations fell free.
[quoted image]

#18 11 months ago
Quoted from runpatboyrun:

That’s amazing but where would one find the original plans?

Don't even need blueprints or stamping dies anymore.

You just give them the parts, they scan and make a file

The software nests the parts on the cut list, so you have very little waste.

All us idiots on the Mechmate forum got all these parts laser cut and bent for $260 usd, and those parts are thick 1/4“ steel. The box weighed like 40 pounds

Drop mechs are like tinfoil by comparison.

#19 11 months ago
Quoted from runpatboyrun:

I have so many questions! Let me start with the cabinet and the head: what plans did you used to cut them? I know you mentioned you changed the angle slightly but I’m very curious as to what your reference was!
Thanks!
I’m amazed and so inspired by your project!

I shared a link at the top of this post to my OneDrive location. There is a PDF file for the plans I used as a guide. The source for most of that is from https://pinballmakers.com/wiki/index.php?title=Main_Page

#20 11 months ago

I appreciate that but, what if I don’t have the parts at all!

Quoted from vid1900:

Don't even need blueprints or stamping dies anymore.
You just give them the parts, they scan and make a file
The software nests the parts on the cut list, so you have very little waste.
All us idiots on the Mechmate forum got all these parts laser cut and bent for $260 usd, and those parts are thick 1/4“ steel. The box weighed like 40 pounds
Drop mechs are like tinfoil by comparison.
[quoted image]

#21 11 months ago

Thank you. Wow. Super generous of you to share.

I couldn’t find plans on Pinballmakers.com for a cabinet and a head.

I meant to ask: you mentioned that you adjusted your plans. This is because you wanted the playfield to sit lower in the cabinet, is that right?

Quoted from cwg29:

I shared a link at the top of this post to my OneDrive location. There is a PDF file for the plans I used as a guide. The source for most of that is from https://pinballmakers.com/wiki/index.php?title=Main_Page

#22 11 months ago
Quoted from runpatboyrun:

I appreciate that but, what if I don’t have the parts at all!

So you probably already have a normal Bally inline drop target mech in your junk pile. You can use this as your template.

The only part you probably need to borrow is the Memory Coil Frame; a really simple, C-shaped part.
Screenshot_2023-08-06-20-41-11-44_40deb401b9ffe8e1df2f1cc5ba480b12.jpgScreenshot_2023-08-06-20-41-11-44_40deb401b9ffe8e1df2f1cc5ba480b12.jpgScreenshot_2023-08-06-20-43-09-32_40deb401b9ffe8e1df2f1cc5ba480b12.jpgScreenshot_2023-08-06-20-43-09-32_40deb401b9ffe8e1df2f1cc5ba480b12.jpg

#23 11 months ago
Quoted from runpatboyrun:

Thank you. Wow. Super generous of you to share.
I couldn’t find plans on Pinballmakers.com for a cabinet and a head.
I meant to ask: you mentioned that you adjusted your plans. This is because you wanted the playfield to sit lower in the cabinet, is that right?

Yep, I dropped the playfield support rails down about an inch which also means the shooter rod hole needs to be dropped too. The slope on the side panels can be increased to add a little space. If you are going for an adjustment just keep your hardware in mind. The wood is fairly cheap so if you really mess it up it's not that bad. I use 3/4" plywood in 2'x4' sheets. That's just short of the length of a real cab. I don't cut my ends at an angle. Instead I put the front and back panel at the ends of the side panels on the main cab to help make up for the shorter box making the total length 49 1/2". This does require more sanding and finishing of course. I found that once I started building and bought the leg brackets and other hardware ahead of time I was able to figure out things as I went along. The big one on the Bally head cab was to make it look right I needed standard rounded door trim for the upper and lower pieces that hold in the backglass.

#24 11 months ago

Fathom has Left and Right inline drop mechs, so the top Latch Plate will have to be made in a mirror image set for each game.

#25 11 months ago
Quoted from cwg29:

The pop bumper design is fascinating but hard to find in stores or expensive. And those drop target assemblies seem extremely rare.

While it sounds like you've already worked beyond these issues, I thought I would share that I recently developed my own 3D printed pop bumper replacement (base, switch mount, and body). I'm working on a custom Centaur based build and need the same parts that you needed. Since I'm using a CPR playfield, I don't have the luxury of changing the cutouts to use alternative parts.

I modified the pop bumper design from the original that was optimized for injection molding, a design which translates poorly to typical FDM printers. For example, I split the switch mount off into a separate part, so the base now prints flat on the bed. I also omitted the 3 cap retaining clips, as they are not ideal for printing, so you have to use the cap screws to mount the cap.

I printed in white nylon, so these are very tough. Plus the white looks so much better than the ivory color that's sold (when you can find them, that is). Note that in my pic below, there is some backlight bleeding through the base, making it glow - it's not a color mismatch, the white actually matches - I suppose you could even use the translucency as a feature and put LEDs beneath the base to light it up. Of course, these could be printed in other colors too in case you had a color theme.

All of the other parts I used are brand new, off the shelf parts. It's nice to have brand new pop bumper assemblies. The quality of the final assembly is amazing - you'd have to look very closely to even discern these are 3D printed.

I'm also working on designing drop target replacement assemblies for printing too. It's too early to know if these will work, though, as I'm only about halfway done with the design. I'm expecting that these will experience much more force from the solenoids, so durability is a concern. I'm hoping that carbon fiber nylon may bridge the gap.

All of this is too little too late for you, I'm sure, but thought I would mention just in case.

-Paul

Bally Pop Bumper Base (resized).jpgBally Pop Bumper Base (resized).jpgBally Pop Bumper Body (resized).jpgBally Pop Bumper Body (resized).jpg
#26 11 months ago
Quoted from Pauven:

While it sounds like you've already worked beyond these issues, I thought I would share that I recently developed my own 3D printed pop bumper replacement (base, switch mount, and body). I'm working on a custom Centaur based build and need the same parts that you needed. Since I'm using a CPR playfield, I don't have the luxury of changing the cutouts to use alternative parts.
I modified the pop bumper design from the original that was optimized for injection molding, a design which translates poorly to typical FDM printers. For example, I split the switch mount off into a separate part, so the base now prints flat on the bed. I also omitted the 3 cap retaining clips, as they are not ideal for printing, so you have to use the cap screws to mount the cap.
I printed in white nylon, so these are very tough. Plus the white looks so much better than the ivory color that's sold (when you can find them, that is). Note that in my pic below, there is some backlight bleeding through the base, making it glow - it's not a color mismatch, the white actually matches - I suppose you could even use the translucency as a feature and put LEDs beneath the base to light it up. Of course, these could be printed in other colors too in case you had a color theme.
All of the other parts I used are brand new, off the shelf parts. It's nice to have brand new pop bumper assemblies. The quality of the final assembly is amazing - you'd have to look very closely to even discern these are 3D printed.
I'm also working on designing drop target replacement assemblies for printing too. It's too early to know if these will work, though, as I'm only about halfway done with the design. I'm expecting that these will experience much more force from the solenoids, so durability is a concern. I'm hoping that carbon fiber nylon may bridge the gap.
All of this is too little too late for you, I'm sure, but thought I would mention just in case.
-Paul [quoted image][quoted image]

This is great! An area that needed much attention and it looks like you are coming up with a great solution. The CPR playfield is very nice and I'm glad that there may be a better option for those pop bumpers. I'm sure there are lots of Bally folks that would be interested in this!

#27 11 months ago

Documenting some of my playfield insert cuts. The arrow inserts. I had a choice to either make a routing template or freestyle it. Since I only have 4 arrows I chose to freestyle with the router. I use a small Harbor Freight router which is easy to handle and also see what I'm cutting. First I drilled out a starting hole in the center of the traced out shape (using the insert itself). Then routed the bottom half shape leaving a lip to hold up the inserts and then after using the insert to set my cutting depth carefully routed the shape itself. Go slow and always keep a visual on the cutting edge. Eye on the prize. Routing bit is a 5/32" straight bit.

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#28 11 months ago

Routing for Star rollover inserts. Use the insert to trace the outer circle diameter. You can also use it to mark 4 points to draw your crosshair which will give you dead center. Drilled out center with a 1" Forstner bit. Used a 5/8" straight router bit set at the insert depth to route right up to the edge of the traced circle. I think this method is cleaner than my last playfield.

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#29 11 months ago

Pop bumpers. I have a template to mark the holes and used the actual hardware to check the fit. Forstner bits and straight router bit. Having a full set of each is a life saver.

IMG_20230808_121503665 (resized).jpgIMG_20230808_121503665 (resized).jpgpop_bumper_templete (resized).jpgpop_bumper_templete (resized).jpg
#30 11 months ago

Rollover lane slots. I use a 1/8" straight router bit after drilling a 1/8" hole at the starting point. Clamping on a straight guide is essential.

IMG_20230807_141201610 (resized).jpgIMG_20230807_141201610 (resized).jpg
#31 11 months ago

For the pops, you’re using a Williams style vs what Bally would have used

I prefer using a circle saw and then using one of the modern DE mechs (which is a lot like the pop mech Bally used on Fathom). Just easier to do by hand.

#32 11 months ago
Quoted from TreyBo69:

For the pops, you’re using a Williams style vs what Bally would have used
I prefer using a circle saw and then using one of the modern DE mechs (which is a lot like the pop mech Bally used on Fathom). Just easier to do by hand.

It occurred to me that maybe an option. I feel comfortable with the Williams mech so went with that. Doing a little modification to attach the Bally pop bumpers covers.

#33 11 months ago

Safety note: Anytime you change a router bit, UNPLUG the router! It's so easy to bump a switch and really do some damage or loose a finger. Be safe!

#34 11 months ago

The rest of the round inserts. After tracing them out and centering with the actual inserts I start with the larger Forstner bit, in this case 3/4", that I mark on the bit itself with a black sharpie pen to match the depth of the insert. Drill down to depth. Switch to the next smaller bit, in this case 5/8". I check the fit with the insert. I may have to drill a touch with the larger bit til my insert is flush with the playfield. Ideally, I want just a slight edge of the insert to be above the playfield so when I sand later everything is flush. It's a "one hole at a time" exercise. So many holes!

IMG_20230809_130124485 (resized).jpgIMG_20230809_130124485 (resized).jpgIMG_20230809_130620516 (resized).jpgIMG_20230809_130620516 (resized).jpg

#35 11 months ago

So many holes...

IMG_20230809_145744144 (resized).jpgIMG_20230809_145744144 (resized).jpg
#36 11 months ago

Almost there.

IMG_20230811_055129707~2 (resized).jpgIMG_20230811_055129707~2 (resized).jpg
#37 11 months ago

Just want to reshare the color choices made by Mudflaps for the cabinet. Great combination.

Pinside_forum_7027789_0 (resized).jpgPinside_forum_7027789_0 (resized).jpg
#38 11 months ago

First I want to mention Greg Walker who started reproducing Fathom playfields before we had reproduction playfields. I am just now discovering the history of this huge effort. Amazing. You are a trailblazer sir!

I just want to add a note on creating the shooter lane grove. I'm not sure how other folks do it but I just use a 7/8" and 1 1/2" diameter piece of PVC wrapped in sand paper. I also use this to chamfer my saucer drops.

IMG_20230812_054342436 (resized).jpgIMG_20230812_054342436 (resized).jpgIMG_20230812_054404652 (resized).jpgIMG_20230812_054404652 (resized).jpg

#39 11 months ago
Quoted from cwg29:

First I want to mention Greg Walker who started reproducing Fathom playfields before we had reproduction playfields. I am just now discovering the history of this huge effort. Amazing. You are a trailblazer sir!

Greg is making playfields again! FantasticPinball

#40 11 months ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

Greg is making playfields again! FantasticPinball

I saw that! I'm so glad. He deserves success. He just may be responsible for helping save pinball during the dark times.

#41 11 months ago

Greg did my direct to wood printed Playfield for league of legends. He’s a great guy!

#42 11 months ago

I'll be ready to join you in building one from scratch, though with regular Bally mechs.

Still looking for one inline drop set.

#43 11 months ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

I'll be ready to join you in building one from scratch, though with regular Bally mechs.
Still looking for one inline drop set.

Exciting! Sounds like you have most of the mechs so it will be worth trying for that last piece. Since I'm doing a 3rd party controller and have experience with it that opened my options. Only thing Bally in my mech inventory is a couple of saucer kickouts. Oh, and that coin door. Would love to see your progress.

#45 11 months ago
Quoted from cwg29:

Exciting! Sounds like you have most of the mechs so it will be worth trying for that last piece. Since I'm doing a 3rd party controller and have experience with it that opened my options. Only thing Bally in my mech inventory is a couple of saucer kickouts. Oh, and that coin door. Would love to see your progress.

It's going to be a bit as I still have to finish my Flash Gordon playfield restoration but have already done a Seawitch and Quicksilver from scratch.

#46 11 months ago

Playfield has been bejeweled. I use wood glue, is that right? I went almost all clear inserts. Using color changing RGB LEDs. Although colored inserts are gorgeous. I didn't find any clear or yellow arrow inserts. I wonder how hard it is to make inserts using molds because if the supply runs short it may come to that.

IMG_20230813_171752728 (resized).jpgIMG_20230813_171752728 (resized).jpg
#47 11 months ago

Sanding sealer. Fellow Pinsider mentioned it. Applied after first sanding. Smoothes the wood out and not as many coats of clear needed. I cleared the playfield, wet sanded, and applied my 3M Control-Tac decal. Next is the insert decals and clear coat, wet sand, clear coat.

IMG_20230814_171124645 (resized).jpgIMG_20230814_171124645 (resized).jpgIMG_20230815_065423449 (resized).jpgIMG_20230815_065423449 (resized).jpgIMG_20230815_065440548 (resized).jpgIMG_20230815_065440548 (resized).jpg

#48 11 months ago

Decals followed by clear. Wet sand, then clear. All of this over several days. I could repeat the process but since I'm using oil based polyurethane for its scratch resistance I don't want to build it up too much where things turn yellow. I watched a lot of guitar build videos and read up on clear polyurethane. So many ways to go about it so all I can suggest is research and practice. If you have the resources $$ there are some cool services out there.

IMG_20230816_044645201 (resized).jpgIMG_20230816_044645201 (resized).jpgIMG_20230817_162224403 (resized).jpgIMG_20230817_162224403 (resized).jpgIMG_20230817_163514906~2 (resized).jpgIMG_20230817_163514906~2 (resized).jpg
#49 11 months ago

Another note on why I chose polyurethane. I've tried lacquer and automotive clear on some past projects and it causes the 3M decal to explode! Chemically it must be too hot for it.

#50 11 months ago

so you applied polyurethane above the decal as well?

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