Fathom
Bally, 1981You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider vec-tor.
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Quoted from Gatecrasher:I see the back of the cabinet (particle board part) is damaged. Mine was like that too and it isn't too uncommon. It is usually caused by storage.
It's caused by storage?, Most of Bally's and William's Presswood pinball
back cabinets are damaged due to operators carelessness while moving
the games around. (A lot of tailgate clips ) Operators just did not care.
You guys are in a high moisture area. I'm in a very dry area.
I agree that the games should be on palettes and off the floor.
But the same damage area, usually on one side, the back right corner
is where the operator slides the game off the truck on a metal surface.
It is where the game is half off the truck and the front legs are on
and the game is pushed to one side of the back corner edge in order
to put the left back leg ( players right side) on. With backbox up,
there is a lot of weight resting on one corner of the game, slide the game
off of the truck... and scrape,... chuck de chuck, bits of the back
comes off bit by bit.
Quoted from SDTMinSTL:Does anyone know if there was ever a rule sheet created for Fathom?
The game, when it was brand new, did not have any rule sheet except for what is in the manual...
If you can't find one, make one. 
Quoted from izzy:Photos I've seen of this unit only have one switch per target
Correct!... you have a hack... Yay! 
Quoted from TractorDoc:The way it is wired in I want to think it is added on; are my suspicions correct or is this a recommended configuration? Only two terminals on the bridge rectifier are tied into the board. I am trying to study the schematics but thought it appropriate to ask here as well.
If you were an operator back in the day... the bridge rectifier helped save the
lamp circuitry... Bally power supply was notorious for blowing up the lamp bridge.
It looks more like a backup plan should the main bridge go bad.
I wired my auxiliary bridge rectifier in parallel with the main lamp bridge.
( less stress on the diodes )
I never had to cute the traces on the PCB; like what you have.
I hope this helps.
Quoted from Gotpins:Does anyone in here have or know where to find the metal playfield hinge/ support that bolts to the side of the cabinet and allows the playfield to swing up? I could use a whole set and can’t seem to find them anywhere.
You need to find a parted-out old school Bally game to get those parts.
Quoted from Madmax541:Just did a playfield swap on my Fathom and started playing games and have some questions.
2) mermaid captured saucer for either blue or green, 3x-4x-5x drop targets get raised, drop those targets ball comes out, get ball back into mermaid saucer drop targets don’t get reset (up). Is this correct?
The inline targets are for only Bonus X.
If ball is trapped then rollover button [ next to trapped ball ]should say "help me"
Completing color drop targets on left side should release trapped ball.
Quoted from Madmax541:One issue remains, blue 5X drop target will occasionally over extent on a reset. See picture
This happens 1 out of 5 times.
Took assembly apart it looks just like 3X and 4X
2nd pic just showing off PFThoughts?
The two reset phenolic links need to be a smidge longer, About 3/32" longer.
Quoted from Madmax541:Not familiar with terminology, what is reset phenolic links?
Bally part #P-1973-444 [LINK]
Note: The "P" stands for PLATE. Any thing that is cut, out of flat stock,
----- is called by the "P" suffix.
Quoted from Madmax541:Took inline DT bank Bally part #P-1973-444 [LINK] apart see if anything different, reassembled no change.
Attached are pics, see if you notice anything not right
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
There are three "L" brackets mounted to the inside back plate.
One tab is known to break off from this "L" bracket.
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Zemst
Boston, MA