(Topic ID: 65944)

Fathom Owners Club & Restorations Thread Fans Are Also Welcome

By Hellfire

10 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 1,076 posts
  • 226 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 days ago by MoodyBlues
  • Topic is favorited by 94 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

Pinside_forum_8070403_0 (resized).jpg
Pinside_forum_8070403_1 (resized).jpg
Pinside_forum_8070403_2 (resized).jpg
Pinside_forum_8070403_3 (resized).jpg
Pinside_forum_8070403_4 (resized).jpg
Pinside_forum_8070403_5 (resized).jpg
Pinside_forum_8070403_6 (resized).jpg
Pinside_forum_8070403_7 (resized).jpg
Pinside_forum_8043448_0 (resized).jpg
Pinside_forum_8029089_3774311 (resized).jpg
20240211_154907_1.gif
Pinside_forum_8020812_0 (resized).jpg
Pinside_forum_8017530_0 (resized).jpg
IMG_4164 (resized).jpeg
IMG_4163 (resized).jpeg
IMG_20230907_160233590_BURST001 (resized).jpg

Topic index (key posts)

2 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #63 Source for aftermarket outhole kicker arm. Posted by swinks (9 years ago)

Post #197 Source for a New Aftermarket Fathom Playfield Apron. Posted by brenna98 (7 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider mudflaps.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

#638 3 years ago

Dumb question... how do you eliminate the attract mode speech?

In the manual, it says adjust switch 30 to OFF. I’m new to the Bally test modes, but hitting the test switch five times gets me to the audio portion. After that, I’m lost.

#641 3 years ago
Quoted from jadziedzic:

The switch to which they are referring is the set of four slide switches contained in a bank of switches on the MPU board in the back box; they're rectangular in shape, usually a light blue color. Slide switch #30 to the "0" position; you may want to do this with the power off. (Since I believe those switches are only read at power-up time you'll have to power cycle the game anyway; making the adjustment with the power off minimizes chances you'll accidentally short something on the MPU if you use a metal tool on the switch.)

Thank you!

#644 3 years ago

Where is the best place to buy #44 lamp sockets to replace the #555 sockets? Looking for a single bayonet with the other side mounted to the ground wire.

B25777A6-F52E-415F-8D47-1EA55920F86F (resized).jpegB25777A6-F52E-415F-8D47-1EA55920F86F (resized).jpeg
#646 3 years ago
Quoted from swinks:

just redesigned the ball kicker arm guides which don't have a part number and will be available soon if you need any hit me up as apparently only used in Fathom and 2 other games. Didn't have the right rivet tool to get close enough for the moment
[quoted image][quoted image]

Put me down!

#648 3 years ago
Quoted from freddy:

Steve young’s Pinball resource

Thanks Freddy. Do you know the model number? I checked PBR but I don’t want to inadvertently buy 50 of the wrong type.

#650 3 years ago
Quoted from JethroP:

I think you want these from The Pinball Resource. They have 2 terminals but you only use one:
[quoted image]

Awesome, thank you! I’ll call check with Steve before I order a ton.

#654 2 years ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

Working on some Fathom rails. It’s been a minute since I’ve done a set so figured I’d dip my toes in here.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Those are mine! Gimme gimme!

#665 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinoffski:

I have a wreck of a fathom that has heaps of parts missing and broken.
swinks has already helped out with these
https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?type=product&q=swinksc-972-3parts
The trough switch wire is broken
[quoted image]
Just asking if this switch wire is correct from my centaur
[quoted image]
have had a look at fathom restores and the only pic i could find was from TractorDoc restore.
any help is very much appreciated if you have a pic or know of the wire form part No:
purchased a wire bending kit from marco

Here’s a pic of mine:

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#669 2 years ago
Quoted from meSz:

Mudflaps, yours appear to be bent as well. I have two Fathoms here and both look like the below.....
[quoted image]

Thanks, I’ll get it sorted!

#671 2 years ago

Started my first playfield swap! Coil mechs removed to molex later. Waiting on the rotisserie and painted rails. All the crappy 555 sockets are getting replaced. Going super slow and taking lots of pictures.

85169B56-DD8A-4CA8-B462-EEFAC050B240 (resized).jpeg85169B56-DD8A-4CA8-B462-EEFAC050B240 (resized).jpeg9BD72A2E-7093-4107-A921-D8D51B9B8308 (resized).jpeg9BD72A2E-7093-4107-A921-D8D51B9B8308 (resized).jpegFE3DA1E4-1E25-4283-8362-135B08475478 (resized).jpegFE3DA1E4-1E25-4283-8362-135B08475478 (resized).jpeg
#673 2 years ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Be ready for all that tape coming off in the dishwasher

Hmmm. Vid’s guide said it should hold up in the dishwasher. Not true?

#676 2 years ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Just make sure they're stuck on there well, last time I did a wash my tape came off.

Copy, thank you!

#678 2 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Start up a new fresh thread that we can follow and help with questions, etc.
-mof

Not a bad idea. I’ve been using your guide along with Vid’s multiple guides. The tear down went quicker than expected, but I think the real work is the re-assembly.

I’ll start a new thread, since I’ll likely need the help!

Edit:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fathom-playfield-swap

3 weeks later
#682 2 years ago

Just did my first playfield swap, and so far nothing major. All lights, switches and solenoids seem to be working.

However, there is some odd behavior.

When locking a ball in the Cave Trap, the game says ‘mermaids captured’ but another ball doesn’t kick out, and the drop targets don’t engage.

The switch tests are good, nothing stuck. Drop targets test normal and pop up/down when starting a game. I’ll troubleshoot, but any ideas are appreciated.

#686 2 years ago
Quoted from jjga:

Are all the trough switches working correctly? Those not registering has explained most of my odd issues so far.

Yeah. I went into the switch test, all trough switches seem to be working.

I can’t start a multiball from either ball trap. Super weird. The ball gets captured, the game does the callout, then nothing. No drop targets up, no second ball from the trough.

Could this be a board issue? It’s also possible I have a short somewhere, but it seems odd there are no other symptoms.

#691 2 years ago

Right as I finished my playfield swap! No matter, Fathom is an all-time classic.

#695 2 years ago
Quoted from jjga:

Is the capture hole switch staying closed when the ball is sitting in them? Does it still fail to initiate multiball when there is a ball in both catch holes?

Yes, the switch remains closed and the game gives me the callout, but the drops don’t engage and a ball doesn’t kick out.

I suspect the ASW-A1-168 switches or E-587-14 diode may be flaky. If the ball is locked but the game thinks the drop targets are already up, it won’t raise the drops. Thus the ball won’t get kicked out of the trough.

Do you think that may be the problem?

#699 2 years ago
Quoted from swampfire:

I had similar weirdness with mine a long time ago, and the culprit was the connector for the relay module under the playfield. I replaced the connector and everything was fine. Of course all of this happened while the game was part of a temp trade. Trades and pinball shows seem to bring out the gremlins.

Do you mean the solenoid expander board?

A42AA88D-32BE-48A1-ADDE-BF6EB736E28C (resized).jpegA42AA88D-32BE-48A1-ADDE-BF6EB736E28C (resized).jpeg
#701 2 years ago
Quoted from swampfire:

^^^ yes, that’s the one.

Thanks! I’ll troubleshoot that as well.

#705 2 years ago
Quoted from swampfire:

I had similar weirdness with mine a long time ago, and the culprit was the connector for the relay module under the playfield. I replaced the connector and everything was fine. Of course all of this happened while the game was part of a temp trade. Trades and pinball shows seem to bring out the gremlins.

It’s not the solenoid expander board. The game boots as normal with all drops going up and down.

I unplugged the board and the game didn’t behave normally. The drops didn’t go back down. Plugged it back and the game behaves normally.

Could it be the solenoid driver board? I tested the fuse, and it was weak but registered.

This is so odd... Even the green arrow insert remains lit after locking the ball in the cave. Still digging...

#707 2 years ago
Quoted from swampfire:

The best advice I can give is to start replacing connectors until the problem goes away. Connectors have been the culprit for at least 75% of my many early SS headaches.

Thanks. The solenoid driver board does have one replacement connector. I’ll do the rest.

#715 2 years ago
Quoted from RobertWinter:

I had this problem right after I did my swap. Ended up being the gap in the sink hole switch.
When the ball would drop into the sink hole, it would close the switch just briefly enough to trigger the callout. But the switch was gapped *just* enough that it was open, even with the ball sitting in the sink hole.
Once I gapped the switch so it *remained* closed with the ball sitting in the hole it worked perfectly.

ZOMG!!! That was it, thank you thank you!!!

Just like you said, that switch’s gap was so tight that it registered but went back to being gapped.

Again, thank you so much!!

Mermaids captured!

#718 2 years ago
Quoted from DylanFan71:

Is this the right switch for the two saucers? My top one isn't registering the ball when goes in the saucer.
Thanks!
https://www.pinballlife.com/bally-secondary-end-of-stroke-switch-normally-open.html

That looks right, but you’ll need fish paper or some other border to prevent contact with the metal saucer.

#720 2 years ago
Quoted from DylanFan71:

Thanks. It's in such an easy spot to work on too.

No doubt! You could use the fish paper from the old switch or fashion your own. Good luck with the soldering, I hope you have a third arm!

5 months later
#775 2 years ago
Quoted from zahner:

I know there is a very nice original for sale that’s at the same price as Shay sells his awesome reproduction BGs.
Look here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/119332

I’ve seen that backglass and it’s indeed very nice.

3 months later
#811 2 years ago
Quoted from lifefloat:

It does not like to drop.
When the games resets the drops it sometimes drops but more often than not, it is stuck up. Not in a "rude" way stuck up just stuck up. Even a good hit with the ball fails to drop it. A tap of the finger to the top of the drop with the glass off drops it but I kinda like playing with the glass on.
//<![CDATA[
window.__mirage2 = {petok:"6e17de734247cf7b389007f5ee04a80f094ef97c-1641773902-1800"};
//]]>

Anyway..........
Something is out of alignment or something is just plain wrong. When I mentioned it to the previous owner he said he had a tech address it and he added some extra washers or something. Hmmmmm....
Well, I am my own technician so it looks like I gotta jump in the pool and figure this out. Looks like it is gonna be a little bit of work to pull out the assembly.
I'm open to suggestions though........

This is a mechanical issue. If your drops don’t go down all the way or don’t respond to a hit, but the solenoid functions, it’s mechanical.

I recommend you remove the entire mech and re-build it. De-solder the coils and switches. Install new springs, new drops, clean/polish the metal, etc. Bally used a particular piece prone to failure (P-7939-1) that may be broken or bent. You can take a look at my playfield swap thread for reference, or there’s some good info here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tech-bally-fathom-drop-target-doesnt-always-stay-up
A6D149BB-43F1-413B-B2E8-A6332C91103F (resized).jpegA6D149BB-43F1-413B-B2E8-A6332C91103F (resized).jpeg
3C699EF1-9B30-428A-9E3F-E90D17089B4A (resized).jpeg3C699EF1-9B30-428A-9E3F-E90D17089B4A (resized).jpeg3D278977-0EBB-46DD-A62E-A1D674AD761E (resized).jpeg3D278977-0EBB-46DD-A62E-A1D674AD761E (resized).jpeg

#812 2 years ago

My upper right flipper was intermittent, now won’t engage at all. When I press the right flipper button, the upper right flipper vibrates just enough (and hums) where I can tell it’s getting power.

Voltage at the coil is 44V. Switch contacts seem good.

Any ideas? Could this be a board issue? I have an Alltek Solenoid Driver Board with an original MPU.

Lower right flipper (works fine):
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Upper right flipper (not working with good voltage):
FB2872BA-A38E-4F5E-9FCB-7E0BB815CA76 (resized).jpegFB2872BA-A38E-4F5E-9FCB-7E0BB815CA76 (resized).jpeg

#814 2 years ago
Quoted from lifefloat:

Thanks Mudflaps.......I've been having so much fun playing this game it's gonna be sad to take it down for repairs. I knew this is what was gonna need to happen though. Thanks for the heads up on the P-7939-1 bracket.

You can get a reinforced version from Shapeways made by Swinks. It’s expensive, or you could possibly fashion your own if you can do some crude metal work.

Make sure you get the correct version… there is a left and right hand version.

https://www.shapeways.com/product/JQGC7NU2N/nut-spring-bracket-p-7939-1-left-modded

#817 2 years ago
Quoted from freddy:

Try adjusting contacts on leaf switch

I think I just found the problem. The contact portion of the leaf switch… is gone.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#820 2 years ago
Quoted from lifefloat:

looks like you are buying a piece of metal also

Ha, fortunately for me, I’m a parts hoarder and I have a spare leaf switch.

I’m also glad I used molex connections with the coils. This will save me some soldering when I take out the coil.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

#822 2 years ago

Back in business

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
2 months later
#828 2 years ago
Quoted from Dakine747:

Has anybody used Comet or PBL spot lighting to illuminate the center playfield area?? Wondering if there’s enough clearance between the slingshot plastics and the glass to accommodate them? Ideas welcomed! Thx

Your game, but I would not recommend spotlights. If you’re using cool white LEDs, the game is plenty bright. No further illumination needed.

A6DBAB38-E5C9-43A1-BE26-7E9B377F99C2 (resized).jpegA6DBAB38-E5C9-43A1-BE26-7E9B377F99C2 (resized).jpegD2E891C1-A61E-464D-9CC8-A7CA7D5A5CFA (resized).jpegD2E891C1-A61E-464D-9CC8-A7CA7D5A5CFA (resized).jpeg
3 months later
#832 1 year ago

Finally getting around to re-painting the cabinet. Will strip with acetone, sand, fill in with fiberglass resin, more sanding, then primer and paint.

FC8B1956-583A-41CE-B1A2-B010A69FF0C0 (resized).jpegFC8B1956-583A-41CE-B1A2-B010A69FF0C0 (resized).jpeg
#833 1 year ago

Sanded, smoothed over with fiberglass resin and first coat of primer. Next up is the head, sanding the cabinet and one more coat of primer.

0E7BB651-FC73-4616-9D71-14E0AEED215E (resized).jpeg0E7BB651-FC73-4616-9D71-14E0AEED215E (resized).jpegF680EE61-C898-4168-8E76-375A41A18553 (resized).jpegF680EE61-C898-4168-8E76-375A41A18553 (resized).jpegAEFCF0D3-4B8C-498A-9D3A-B0B02EEAE9D2 (resized).jpegAEFCF0D3-4B8C-498A-9D3A-B0B02EEAE9D2 (resized).jpeg

1 week later
#835 1 year ago
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:

Anyone know how to turn off attract sounds in Fathom? I can't seem to find it in the manual.
Just traded my Nine-Ball for a beautiful Fathom I'm bringing up to 11.

Switch 30 to OFF

#836 1 year ago

Primed, sanded and the first few coats sprayed. I’ll let it cure for a week or so, one more light sanding and coat, then stencils.

A15D4909-B634-491B-A41F-F2160A33D03A (resized).jpegA15D4909-B634-491B-A41F-F2160A33D03A (resized).jpegC5796AE7-0BF0-4E8D-98CE-3E801EA1F492 (resized).jpegC5796AE7-0BF0-4E8D-98CE-3E801EA1F492 (resized).jpeg
#844 1 year ago

First stencils applied:
120685DC-23E4-498B-9E81-73A73756CB26 (resized).jpeg120685DC-23E4-498B-9E81-73A73756CB26 (resized).jpeg
And success! Time to wait a week or so to dry, then the next layer.
A49ACF6C-60C6-4D17-9E29-337FC9D4F332 (resized).jpegA49ACF6C-60C6-4D17-9E29-337FC9D4F332 (resized).jpeg

#846 1 year ago
Quoted from paulbaptiste:

Thas is a sexy beast! Are you using the colors codes provided with the stencils? I need to get my games started, but have yet to apply any stencils yet. Excited to get the first one under my belt. Looks great so far!

Green goes first with the cabinet and last with the head. As far as color, I’m not a purist at all. I just picked the ‘close enough’ colors at Home Depot.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

1 week later
#861 1 year ago

Second stencil complete on the cabinet. I have a few areas I need to fix, but nothing drastic. I’m pleased with how it turned out, and I’m going back and forth on a top clear layer vs. just letting it be.
3881A30F-0A4B-4258-8719-8D0173C32B84 (resized).jpeg3881A30F-0A4B-4258-8719-8D0173C32B84 (resized).jpeg9DB336B9-99D9-4776-B2E0-33894AE5C53B (resized).jpeg9DB336B9-99D9-4776-B2E0-33894AE5C53B (resized).jpeg

First stencil on the head. Again, a few problem areas but nothing terrible.
EDA5D94E-5729-4FF8-AF9C-168458BB93E1 (resized).jpegEDA5D94E-5729-4FF8-AF9C-168458BB93E1 (resized).jpeg7939003F-6DBD-4DE0-AF84-FD20B16B9D98 (resized).jpeg7939003F-6DBD-4DE0-AF84-FD20B16B9D98 (resized).jpeg

1 week later
#871 1 year ago

Good progress. Painting is finished, and cabinet reassembly is about done. The hardest part will be disassembling and cleaning the coin door… ugh.

I rebuilt the power cord and installed a new filter, and no explosions when I turned it on. This one should be wrapped up in the next week or two.

063916A6-4150-4FF2-865A-ED88FBD90F80 (resized).jpeg063916A6-4150-4FF2-865A-ED88FBD90F80 (resized).jpegB67A2F37-F4A8-4A30-AA0C-0501A494FBBE (resized).jpegB67A2F37-F4A8-4A30-AA0C-0501A494FBBE (resized).jpeg
#873 1 year ago

She lives!

01FF4111-06BD-442E-B024-84F4D9C4E079 (resized).jpeg01FF4111-06BD-442E-B024-84F4D9C4E079 (resized).jpeg
#879 1 year ago

Once I dropped the playfield in the game, I ran through the tests. Everything was working, no problems. Started a game, coils fired normally… and then the game ended. No ball launched. Shit.

The coin door wasn’t installed, so I thought it may be a grounding issue. Installed the coin door, same thing.

I ran through the switch test thinking it may be a stuck switch, and that’s exactly what it was. Switch 15, tilt. I had jacked up the wiring on the tilt board. A few rearranged screws later, and we’re back in business. It’s great to play a ‘new’ Fathom!

188AF28A-6226-4097-AEB0-EC28B208F3A0 (resized).jpeg188AF28A-6226-4097-AEB0-EC28B208F3A0 (resized).jpeg
Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
6,200
Machine - For Sale
Mt Zion, IL
$ 22.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
Eproms

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider mudflaps.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fathom-owners-club?tu=mudflaps and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.